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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I didn't notice a huge change when I went to SS lines on the R1. Any benefit I felt could also have been attributed to maybe having had some air in the previous lines. All in all, if you need new lines sure go SS but if you're replacing good lines I wouldn't bother personally. I felt a significant change when going from stock robber to fancy new SS brake lines on my bike. But that may have had something to do with replacing the 5-10 year-old brake fluid as well.
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Feb 29, 2012 19:24
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KozmoNaut posted:But that may have had something to do with replacing the 5-10 year-old brake fluid as well. In my experience its the fresh fluid more than the lines.
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Feb 29, 2012 19:50
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Before I changed my brake lines, I could feel the flex in the rubber lines when squeezing the lever. I couldn't see it, but felt it if I gripped the rubber line. It might only be a tiny change in diameter, but given the whole length of the lines, it adds up to a noticeable bit of volume. With the braided lines, I can still feel something but am unsure if it's the line straightening out or flexing outwards. It definitely flexes less. Good enough datapoint for me, particularly when new OEM rubber lines cost more.
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Feb 29, 2012 20:07
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Has anyone done a DIY tubeless conversion before? Read a few different guides and went shopping at lunch: I've got a good thick poly glue to seal the spoke holes, and a roll of seriously good riggers tape to put over them for, I dunno, security? I've read mixed reports about recycling the valve stems from the tubes, I'm probably going to see if the local tyre places have replacement ones.
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Feb 29, 2012 21:44
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Have you looked into those Tubliss inserts? Not sure how much your time is worth to you but a tubliss setup seems like a good investment for the money even if it's a couple hundred up front.
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Feb 29, 2012 21:48
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This is one of the better guides on DIY tubeless IMO: http://cyb.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM/Tubeless/7250813_ZxQA5 Tubliss only comes in dirt bike rim sizes.
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Feb 29, 2012 21:50
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Don't do it, just...don't. What the benefit? You don't have to dick with a tube (which really isn't all that bad). What's the downside? You could die in a horrible accident when your Seal-All glue fails, and you lose the ability to tune your spoked wheel. Are you riding around on tracks all day? No? Then tube heat isn't an issue, unless you're running around at 10 PSI all day or something. Why do you want to do it? What's your motivation? You can run tubes in almost any tubeless tire, so there's no issue with tire selection. Tubes themselves are like $6, so it's not a money issue. What's your angle?
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Feb 29, 2012 22:07
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Geirskogul posted:Why do you want to do it? What's your motivation? Why does anyone want tubeless tyres? You can plug punctures / repair on the road. Easier to change them (which I do myself). Less unsprung mass / cooler running. quote:You could die in a horrible accident when your Seal-All glue fails Think about this for a second. If a spoke starts to leak it will be no faster (probably much slower) than a normal puncture. quote:and you lose the ability to tune your spoked wheel. This is a good point, and after some research I found a guide with an ingenious method to allow the spokes to still be tuned. http://www.teamincomplete.com/Projects/950/1719tubelesswhee.html
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Feb 29, 2012 22:28
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I have been looking for an interesting route to ride in south west Florida. Does anyone have suggestions for one? I was just in Arizona visiting my mom and they had this nifty magazine there called Ride Arizona (http://ridearizona.net/) but there is nothing like that for Florida. Thanks!
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Feb 29, 2012 22:33
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ReelBigLizard posted:
Changing tubed tires isn't that difficult. Slide tire halfway on, slide tube in, spoon other half of tire on. It takes five more minutes than a tubeless tire, at most. I change my own tires as well. There isn't a huge difference in weight (a tube weighs a few ounces), and, as I stated earlier, "cooler running" doesn't come into play unless something is very wrong with your air pressures, you're running MotoGP or something (in which case, you're on a bike with tubeless wheels anyway), or you're being a yobbo and racing 1/4 miles at every stoplight for hours on end. In a car, the biggest temperature difference I could find for tube vs tubeless 100mph runs was 29 degrees, and a cursory Google search reveals normal-tier motorcycle tube tires rated up to 230 km/h (140 mp/h), so speed doesn't seem to be an issue either. Also, what are you doing about different bead construction? The only point you made is that you can use mushroom plugs on the road, versus having to crack the bead and patch a tube, but I counter that with the fact that tubes allow you to use those puncture sprays for pinhole leaks or punctures. With large punctures (run over a bolt or something) you're in the same boat either way. I don't see this as a big selling point for the hassle. quote:Think about this for a second. If a spoke starts to leak it will be no faster (probably much slower) than a normal puncture. Not all spoke insertion points are air-tight, or nearly so. If you look at some, you'll see that a glue patch failure would be a pretty quick deflation. Also, the amount of glue required to leave you with adjustable spokes more than outweighs the weight of a tube by itself, unless you're comparing it 3x heavy duty rubber tubes. I guess I just don't see the point in spending this much time, money (if you buy the "proper" glues), and risk (there is definitely added risk, you can't argue that away) just for the possible convenience of using a plug once maybe.
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Feb 29, 2012 22:59
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The availability of common sport tires in useful sizes i.e. 150/160 is what would prevent me from trying to go tubeless on the DRZ. No need imo. Carry an extra tube, wrenches and CO2 with you if you are really worried about a flat. I agree a plug and CO2 is probably easier to carry around but you gotta live with it honestly.
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Feb 29, 2012 23:06
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Geirskogul posted:Changing tubed tires isn't that difficult. Slide tire halfway on, slide tube in, spoon other half of tire on. It takes five more minutes than a tubeless tire, at most. I change my own tires as well. It is an enormous pain in the dick to replace a tube while on the side of the road. I have a Tubliss setup and it takes 5 minutes from flat to fixed, and that includes taking a piss.
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Feb 29, 2012 23:35
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Geirskogul posted:Changing tubed tires isn't that difficult. Still more work than not. quote:There isn't a huge difference in weight This is motorcycles. I've seen way more extreme measures to cull similar or less weight. quote:or you're being a yobbo  All times are yobbo times with a 690quote:Also, what are you doing about different bead construction? The bead is actually the same on my rims. quote:I counter that with the fact that tubes allow you to use those puncture sprays for pinhole leaks or punctures. I've not seen these, but from limited googling it seems like they are a 'limp to the garage' repair at best. quote:Not all spoke insertion points are air-tight, or nearly so. If you look at some, you'll see that a glue patch failure would be a pretty quick deflation. This is a modern 17 inch Behr rim with pretty high quality spokes, I'm pretty sure I could get enough pressure in there to seat the rim without even sealing them. quote:Also, the amount of glue required to leave you with adjustable spokes more than outweighs the weight of a tube by itself, unless you're comparing it 3x heavy duty rubber tubes. I gave this some more thought actually, if I have the rim off to true it, I'll have the tyre off anyway, so I can just reseal them. quote:I guess I just don't see the point in spending this much time I'm taking the wheels off to prep and powdercoat them anyway, not too much effort. quote:money (if you buy the "proper" glues) Less than a tenner. quote:and risk (there is definitely added risk, you can't argue that away) Can, did. No more risk than getting any other kind of puncture. quote:just for the possible convenience of using a plug once maybe. The convenience of not having to unmount the tyre to fix a flat, and do it in enough time that I'm barely late for work. This tuesday was the second nail I've pulled out of this same tyre. quote:Carry an extra tube, wrenches and CO2 with you if you are really worried about a flat. I agree a plug and CO2 is probably easier to carry around but you gotta live with it honestly. It sounds ridiculous but KTM didn't actually provide any space for even the tool roll. When I picked the bike up from the dealer we were both scratching our heads where it was supposed to go. Ready to Race
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Feb 29, 2012 23:55
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ReelBigLizard posted:I've not seen these, but from limited googling it seems like they are a 'limp to the garage' repair at best. A friend of mine used some tire slime after picking up a nail on his Ulysses, it's been over a year with a couple big trips and the tire holds air perfectly. The label says it's guaranteed for 2 years, and if you're not replacing rear tires at least once every two years, you're doing it wrong.
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Mar 1, 2012 00:27
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Tire slime works well, and I've had good luck with Fix-a-Flat-style ones, as well. I have a small can along with a small air pump and tool kit in a bag in the frame of my bike, along with a spare tube and appropriately-sized wrenches that also work as tire spoons. Last time I changed my rear tire I used the homebuilt kit to practice, and I was done in no time. I do really love the quick-release rear wheel/cush drive setup.
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Mar 1, 2012 03:19
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vs Dinosaurs posted:I'm sure it isn't as permanent but thermal paste people use on (processors?) will also work if you allow it to dry on a glove finger tip. May or may not be cheaper, not sure. Thanks for this tip. I spent the last hour or so sewing a small area on the tip of my glove, only to have it work about 1/10 times I try to use it. I might try to use another part of the glove or see how other people sewed it, but I think I'm going to spend the 5 bux on paste and see how it does.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:31
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New rider questions here: I just bought a 09 ninja 250, now to put it in first gear I have to be completely stopped right? Or can I put it in first even if I was riding along? Also, what is this hose here? 
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Mar 1, 2012 23:39
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:New rider questions here: You can do either, it's probably going to be a bit more clunky if you're moving but not to worry! Also, that hose is a vent of some kind. Engine, coolant, blinker fluid, who knows it's probably an overflow from your coolant reservoir
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Mar 1, 2012 23:41
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:New rider questions here: You can put it into first when your speed is appropriate to put it into first (ie don't put it in first on the freeway). If you're slowing to stop at a traffic light, if you come up on traffic which is crawling but not enough for you to come to an actual stop, coming up to a sharp corner that you need to slow right down but not stop for etc. That hose looks like a overflow hose for your fuel tank. Edit - or overflow for something else
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Mar 1, 2012 23:42
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:New rider questions here: Have you taken an MSF/riding course or are you planning to take an MSF/riding course? It's really important if you're a new rider to learn good habits early. Bad habits in riding can be very dangerous. Nothing against you, I just really would like to avoid another mootmoot if it's at all possible. That hose is probably either a carb overflow, a fuel tank overflow or a battery overflow tube. You can trace it to it's source to be sure though.
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Mar 2, 2012 00:09
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I'd put money on the battery tube
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Mar 2, 2012 01:55
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nsaP posted:Thanks for this tip. I spent the last hour or so sewing a small area on the tip of my glove, only to have it work about 1/10 times I try to use it. I might try to use another part of the glove or see how other people sewed it, but I think I'm going to spend the 5 bux on paste and see how it does. Not all paste is conductive, check what you're buying before making a mess.
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Mar 2, 2012 02:35
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ReelBigLizard posted:
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Mar 2, 2012 02:54
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Aargh posted:Weird, theres space on the SM's - mind you there's a bit of a weight difference and different plastics but I'd have thought the SMC had space for a tool roll. I'm going to be using some of these on my bike. I want to see if I can use it for tool roll container. For 4.99 it's worth a shot. http://www.agrisupply.com/operator-manual-canister/p/67670/ It will fit a 30 oz MSR fuel canister supposedly.
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Mar 2, 2012 05:04
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It's very popular with ADV riders.
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Mar 2, 2012 05:16
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Have you taken an MSF/riding course or are you planning to take an MSF/riding course? It's really important if you're a new rider to learn good habits early. Bad habits in riding can be very dangerous. Nothing against you, I just really would like to avoid another mootmoot if it's at all possible. I don't see the point, i mean I'm already pretty close to getting wheelies in my driveway so I'm already pretty advanced skill-wise. Just kidding. Doing it in early April. It is torturous though cause of all the beautiful late-winter weather we're having here in SE PA, it's tough to wait to take it out until I've taken the class. My way of keeping me from doing so is Iv'e been dragging my heels to get insured / the bike registered, as while I'm impulsive I'm not THAT foolish to ride with all that to be taken care of first. I've messed around in my neighborhood a little though, and my shifting question was because I was wondering if there was something keeping you from putting it in first while the bike was moving, 'cause I thought I had read that somewhere. Thank you for the responses though, that hose looked weird to me so I was just making sure it was supposed to be there like that.
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Mar 2, 2012 08:06
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Actually, some bikes are difficult to put into first from second or neutral (depends) unless they are moving. You may have read that some bikes don't go into neutral easily when moving, or when stopped, or some bikes don't go into neutral from first that easily, or from second easily. There are many finicky configurations you may have heard about, and it's easy to get them jumbled up. Also, a lot of bikes "clang" into first gear from any RPM, no matter what. Don't worry about it.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Mar 2, 2012 |
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Mar 2, 2012 08:20
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As long as you have the right RPMs, your bike will go into whatever gear you want. Rev-match, stab the shifter down, and you'll be fine.
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Mar 2, 2012 08:26
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cixelsyd posted:I have been looking for an interesting route to ride in south west Florida. Does anyone have suggestions for one? I was just in Arizona visiting my mom and they had this nifty magazine there called Ride Arizona (http://ridearizona.net/) but there is nothing like that for Florida. Florida may not have the same thing, but there are a few other websites that keep track of those sorts of things. Such as Motorcycle Roads USA - Florida Open Road Journey - Florida
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Mar 2, 2012 10:20
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Aargh posted:Weird, theres space on the SM's - mind you there's a bit of a weight difference and different plastics but I'd have thought the SMC had space for a tool roll. The SMC is quite different actually, the subframe is also the fuel tank (you sit on the tank) and the airbox is up front under the forward half of the extended seat. But yeah, I'd struggle to find a space for a single decently sized wrench, and forget sockets, drivers etc. This might change when I finally get round to removing the airbox and replacing it with a pod filter. The airbox is absolutely massive.
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Mar 2, 2012 11:36
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2003 Ducati Monster 800Sie What are these? (corroded penny as size reference)  They dropped out from the engine when I started it up today. They're light plasticky, somewhat misshapen (looks like they are squished a little). My bike is brand new (to me) I hope it's okay 
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Mar 2, 2012 22:58
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They look like tank spacers or something someone jammed in the bike to stop a rattle. Probably not a big deal, look for any place that they might have stopped metal on metal contact.
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Mar 2, 2012 23:08
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Fiendish Dr. Wu posted:2003 Ducati Monster 800Sie probably a diy anti rattle kludge, but the could be from under your seat or tank.
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Mar 3, 2012 01:55
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Alright cool thanks guys. That helps ease my mind.
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Mar 3, 2012 04:08
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Some of you may remember some time ago I mentioned there was a knocking sound coming from my bike - initially I thought it was the centre stand knocking on the bottom frame of the bike and ended up putting a new rubber spacer on it as the old one was gone. Well, the knocking is still there and I had a look today and there's nothing loose down there (the back of the bike). I checked if the exhaust was loose and hitting on anything and they're both solid, everything else I can see from the outside seems fairly solid as well. I was playing around with it earlier and it seems that the knock is only there when the bike is moving on its own power and it seems to be at a regular interval - I think it's every rotation of the rear tyre. If I push the bike there is no noise, however if I crawl it along in 1st (or any gear) and let the bike do the work the knock is there. Would anyone have any slight idea what this could be?
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Mar 3, 2012 05:05
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Is it a heavy thunking, or a vibration of some sort? Does it speed up when the bike does?
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Mar 3, 2012 05:11
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Chain have a really nasty link or is there an issue with your sprockets? Wheel bearing? Any play in the rear wheel?
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Mar 3, 2012 05:33
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An observer posted:Is it a heavy thunking, or a vibration of some sort? Does it speed up when the bike does? The best way I can describe is it as a knocking sound - as if something was hitting against something else. Z3n posted:Chain have a really nasty link or is there an issue with your sprockets? Wheel bearing? Any play in the rear wheel? How would I know if there's an issue with my sprockets? Or the wheel bearing? What do you mean by "play in the rear wheel" ? Everything feels perfectly fine when I'm riding except there is a thudding noise. e: I just put the bike on its centre stand and checked out the chain - everything looks fine, all the links look normal and the same as eachother. I rolled the wheel around and was able to replicate the sound so the under bikes power idea is out the window I guess. I'll make a quick video of it on my phone and put it on YouTube so you guys can hear the noise. Here we go, you can hear the noise fairly well in it. http://youtu.be/0Fyj63BVT-s Shimrod fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Mar 3, 2012 |
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Mar 3, 2012 05:45
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Soooo. Thumpertalks "What every DRZ Needs; Protection, Maintenance, and Preventive fixes." contains, among other things, this list:quote:Preventative maintenance fixes: Can I do all these in one sitting? Which order should I do them in? Don't want to do one and put high strength threadlocker on stuff only to discover I have to take it apart again...
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Mar 3, 2012 05:54
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Soooo. Thumpertalks "What every DRZ Needs; Protection, Maintenance, and Preventive fixes." contains, among other things, this list: I also would like to know this. I need to do all the fixes as well. Are these something that every DRZ has an issue with or is it a case by case basis? I understand it's a preventative step I'm just curious how widespread the problem's were/are.
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Mar 3, 2012 07:25
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