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I like my RE760's in stock size. Pretty much took them to the track after mounting them, they did really well.
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Mar 3, 2012 01:22
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opengl128 posted:I like my RE760's in stock size. Pretty much took them to the track after mounting them, they did really well. Are they good for daily driving? These will be my primary wheels 8-9 months of the year.
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Mar 3, 2012 01:28
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Rhyno posted:Tire time! I'm in the opposite situation... my 2012 MS3 came with some summer tires, but in SLC, I need some winter tires. I'm looking for some cheap steelies and snow tires... :|
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Mar 3, 2012 04:15
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Rhyno posted:Are they good for daily driving? These will be my primary wheels 8-9 months of the year. I only put a few hundred on them before switching to my steelies and blizzaks for the winter, but they are just fine. No real difference noticed from the stock tires other than being cheaper.
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Mar 3, 2012 04:24
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opengl128 posted:I like my RE760's in stock size. Pretty much took them to the track after mounting them, they did really well. Seconding these. Less expensive than factory, handle at least as well and have a better wear rating. I got a few thousand miles on mine before switching to the Altimax Arctics for the zero inches of snow we've gotten this year.
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Mar 3, 2012 06:12
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SynMoo posted:I got a few thousand miles on mine before switching to the Altimax Arctics for the zero inches of snow we've gotten this year. Tell me about it :-/. Easily could have left my summers on with this winter, and not had to suffer my Blizzak's not so great dry handling, especially when it gets above the mid 40's. The days we've had close to/above 60 have made me feel like I'm driving a Camry with how soft and mushy they get.
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Mar 3, 2012 06:21
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opengl128 posted:Tell me about it :-/. Easily could have left my summers on with this winter, and not had to suffer my Blizzak's not so great dry handling, especially when it gets above the mid 40's. The days we've had close to/above 60 have made me feel like I'm driving a Camry with how soft and mushy they get. Not to mention wearing down the snow compound for no drat reason. Even still, you can't leave the summers on because they turn into hockey pucks below 40 degrees.
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Mar 3, 2012 17:23
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Not sure why people keep saying this, I've had the stock summer tires on for the first 3000 miles now and its been below 40 nearly everyday until just last week. At first I was really paranoid from reading forum posts and about to drop $1000 on winter tires and cheap wheels but it really wasnt an issue minus the one day there was snow on the road which was also fine as long as you didnt go above 40mph or take a turn at speed.
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Mar 3, 2012 17:38
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I took my MS6 in to get the timing chain accuator deally replaced today. I got a loaner 09 CX-7 FWD with the DISI turbo. It was a pretty quick little crossover and really comfortable to drive! My wife liked it too. They had my car done in about 5 or 6 hours (quick!). The bonus was my oil change was due in the next 3 or 4 weeks. They drain the oil to do the work; so I took a case of some Mobil 1 full synthetic to have them fill it with.  They don't replace the oil filter however so I paid like 9 bucks to have them replace it. Car looks good! Invoice for the work was like $890, and they said that was at mazdas cost, otherwise it's about a $1600 job.
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Mar 3, 2012 22:52
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I saw a CX-7 today that had to have had blown turbo seals. I don't know if the driver knew what was up, but every time they applied the throttle a continuous stream of blue smoke would come out of the exhaust.
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Mar 4, 2012 05:19
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Vulcan posted:Not sure why people keep saying this, I've had the stock summer tires on for the first 3000 miles now and its been below 40 nearly everyday until just last week. Do you live in a place that you frequently get snow / icy roads? Out here in SLC we get it a lot, and I have actually slid off the road when going up the canyon even at speed because of black ice. The summer tires just don't cut it because they don't have the siping and tread pattern to let snow not build up in the channels. I can pick up some 15" steelies with snow tires for 600$. I dunno, seems like it's worth it.
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Mar 4, 2012 06:00
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I have a cousin in SLC and he and his wife run a second pair of wheels with snow tires. Think of it in the sense that the cost of those tires are probably about the same as your insurance deductible.
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Mar 4, 2012 06:43
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I agree with them being terrible for snow / ice, I was commenting on finding the stock tires to be perfectly acceptable winter tires for temperatures below 40 degrees. I have never once felt like I was going to be in danger of losing traction at cold temps unless I was going unreasonably fast on purpose on an offramp.
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Mar 4, 2012 07:37
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The point is that the threshold for what is reasonable in freezing temperatures is completely different between summers, all seasons and snows. The summer tires get extremely hard in 20 degree temps. Even aside from that, they're completely worthless below freezing with any sort of precipitation. I don't have the option of not being able to drive my car if it gets a little snowy or sleety.
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Mar 4, 2012 08:51
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I'm taking a real hard look at a MS6 for my 1st fun car and came across an '07 at a dealership for 16K with 72K kilometers. Seemed like an extremely good price for my area compared to other vehicles. Especially considering that a new WRX is 33K and mustang gt is 34K up here. I did a bit of research and it seems to suit what I'm looking for, so I took a test drive last week. The car was low on power-steering fluid, as I found out after they washed it off and had a mechanic look at it. It sounded pretty bad at first, but OK once it had fluid in it. It had some of the maintenance records and I couldn't see any work on high mileage items like plugs/belts, etc. I did see a few warranty claims for rear suspension and leaking differential or transfer case (can't remember exactly). I hadn't driven a standard in years and I'm really rusty and not smooth at all, so I couldn't tell how the transmission felt. My only prior experience was with a sunfire with a really slack clutch. They hadn't washed the car before I got there and it was filthy, but the paint (grey) looked decent for the year. I didn't get a look underneath to see if it was undercoated. I live in Atlantic Canada on the coast so there's no better place for rust and it would be a long-term concern. I'm being very cautious and have been thinking about getting a fun car for over 3 years now. I haven't made an offer yet and still have reservations about long-term care and maintenance. I'm only slightly apt at car repairs, the most I've done is brake jobs and putting an intake on my current car, an auto pontiac G6. I don't know if I'd sell my G6 as it's already paid for and hasn't given me any serious issue in 3yrs/100K. But it is boring despite my attempts to make it otherwise (CAI...) There are no tracks or autocross around here so I wouldn't be doing that, but I wouldn't mind doing some modifications as there is quite a few things available (especially compared to my g6). Still on the fence and undecided on whether to make an offer... what should I expect from a MS6? Are these troublesome cars and are hard to work? I've yet to own a car with overhead cam(s) and I have a (bad) perception that anything complicated is unreliable.
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Mar 5, 2012 22:37
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I would have the power steering system checked out before you decide to buy, it shouldn't be that low unless there is a leak.
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Mar 5, 2012 22:46
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I went to go look at an 09 Speed3 yesterday and I really liked it. The torque steer was a bit much but coming from a miata the comfort and power was amazing. I also took a drive in an 06 WRX wagon which I was cross-shopping with. The WRX had an awful interior comparatively and felt too much like my friends 02 wrx even being 4-5 years newer. What should I be worrying about with the Speed3? From what I've read the gas mileage is crap, the turbo has oiling problems which causes a lot of smoke, and the VVT system is a time bomb of sorts. It's fairly difficult to get a nice consistent list of common issues since the demographic for this car seems to be just this side of retard.
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Mar 6, 2012 00:12
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The entire laundry list of what I've done on my '07 MS3, bought in '09 with 24k on the clock and now has just under 103k on it: *Oil changes out the wazoo, synthetic only. I buy my cartridge filters in bulk, it makes the OEM or Wix filters cost half as much as a Fram from Autozone. *Tires twice over now. *Rotors turned around 30k, replaced the front pads and rotors around 40-45k with Hawk HPS and Centric blanks. Haven't warped the rotors yet (the factory ones did it twice) and there's still a shitload of material on the pads even now. Rears still look new. *Air filter cleanings every 30k (came with the Mazdaspeed/AEM CAI with a dryflow filter) *Gear oil (using the crazy spendy $18/qt Motorcraft fluid) at 60k *Spark plugs at 60k *Accessory belt around 80k because it was starting to look dry and sounded like it was chirping a bit every once in a while *One headlight bulb *Wiring issue with the rear harness that caused it to think my hatch was open (warranty) *The shift pattern indicator on my shifter broke off *Replaced struts/shocks with Koni FSDs at 100k *Replaced left rear wheel hub *Replaced right front wheel bearing (and due to rust issues, halfshaft, spindle, and hub as well) - most expensive thing on the car since I bought it *Tightened down the right rear swaybar link *Thermostat is sticking open ever so slightly, but only sets a code when it's cold as hell out so I'm putting it off until my wallet recovers from the wheel bearing massacre *Throttle body failed, had to replace it to get rid of nagging P2119 errors and the resulting limp-home mode - this shouldn't be an issue on anything newer than mid-run '07s. $550 part, but about a half hour of actual work if I was only doing this. Did the EGR at the same time. *EGR valve stuck and tube clogged - lot of work to get to it but only cost me some throttle body cleaner to free it up I've had no smoke from the turbo at all, my used oil analysis results have always been good, and I get no noise from the VVT system. I attribute this to strict adherence to oil change intervals and using synthetic.
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Mar 6, 2012 00:23
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Honestly, for the power, the fuel mileage doesn't seem all that bad. What did the UOA tell you about your oil change interval? What interval do you change your oil at?
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Mar 6, 2012 00:51
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Basically, that for my driving (lots of highway) the factory 7500 mile interval is fine, but also as long as you'd ever want to take it. At 8k+ I started getting signs that the oil was just plain used up. A lot of "the community" claims to only get 4500 or less due to fuel contamination issues, but I had almost no fuel whatsoever in my UOAs. I might get another one done soon for shits and grins.
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Mar 6, 2012 01:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Basically, that for my driving (lots of highway) the factory 7500 mile interval is fine, but also as long as you'd ever want to take it. At 8k+ I started getting signs that the oil was just plain used up. I need to do a UOA. My driving since I moved so much closer to the city has become mostly very short trips so I'm worried about fuel dilution. I've been doing 3k mile oil changes with Rotella 5w-40, but that's getting a little costly if I can keep going a few thousand miles more. AkrisD posted:I went to go look at an 09 Speed3 yesterday and I really liked it. The torque steer was a bit much but coming from a miata the comfort and power was amazing. I also took a drive in an 06 WRX wagon which I was cross-shopping with. The WRX had an awful interior comparatively and felt too much like my friends 02 wrx even being 4-5 years newer. What should I be worrying about with the Speed3? From what I've read the gas mileage is crap, the turbo has oiling problems which causes a lot of smoke, and the VVT system is a time bomb of sorts. It's fairly difficult to get a nice consistent list of common issues since the demographic for this car seems to be just this side of retard. The gas mileage will be way better than an equivalent car with AWD. Granted the STI has about 40 more HP from the factory, but my brother could never get close to the fuel mileage I get with my 09 speed3. The smoking turbo, as I understand it, was really only an issue in the 07-08 models, and while I received a letter in the mail about an extension to the warranty covering the VVT I haven't had any issues with it. I also love the interior of the 08.5-09 GT. The alcantara inserts are great! I've had three visits to the dealership since purchasing the car, but no major complaints: 1) Faulty gas cap. There was a TSB out and the dealership replaced with a revised model under warranty. 2) Faulty/blown passenger side Bose speaker. Replaced under warranty. 3) Some TSB/recall regarding the windshield wipers. The dealership installed a second grounding wire and that was that. My one complaint would be that Mazda has never given or offered a loaner car to me when I've had to drop it off for service for an entire day or overnight. (I really just want to toss around a Mazda2.) I'm at 25k miles and still on the factory tires--- which is probably unwise. I'll need to replace them soon, but I keep holding out for a good deal on some RPF1s or FD RX7 wheels to show up on craigslist so that I can switch to a better tire size.
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Mar 6, 2012 01:38
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To those who care: Here is the before and after photos of my Speed's brush with a wooden mailbox. Sorry it took so long, but  The hood was repaired, shockingly. I figured due to the dents in the crease it would be scrapped but they were able to fix it and it looks straight as factory. New bumper, headlight and foglight; lus paint and labor totaled $3200 something. http://imgur.com/a/1mXfg
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Mar 6, 2012 05:10
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Sublime Process posted:To those who care: Here is the before and after photos of my Speed's brush with a wooden mailbox. Sorry it took so long, but Wow they did great work. Is that metro gray? I have to get some paintwork done soon from when I was keyed, wondering how well they were able to match/blend it. It's got so much going on in terms of color changing/metallic flake when the light hits it.
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Mar 6, 2012 05:18
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The Mazda2 is seriously way more fun than a car that cheap should be. I hope I can figure out a way to keep my MS3 as a family hauler, need to head to a store and see if the car seat we want to get will fit in the car with my driving position...because if it will, I'm going to try and swing a Mazda2 to replace my Ranger.
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Mar 6, 2012 05:23
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opengl128 posted:Wow they did great work. Is that metro gray? I have to get some paintwork done soon from when I was keyed, wondering how well they were able to match/blend it. It's got so much going on in terms of color changing/metallic flake when the light hits it. Yea, it's metro gray. I knew of the body shop because the dealer I used to work at used them and I went to school with the owner's kid. Their work is fantastic and if they miss something, they take no hassle to fix it. To answer you though, the matching they did is excellent.
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Mar 6, 2012 13:57
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Is it normal for my Mazda3 to take upwards of 4 seconds to engage the reverse gear after I've shifted? I haven't driven a new car in a while so maybe it's some sort of safety thing? It's a 2012 Skyactiv model with the automatic transmission.
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Mar 14, 2012 03:18
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That seems every so slightly excessive, but I don't have any experience with the new Skyactiv models. I wouldn't be concerned as long as everything else is otherwise normal. Maybe mention it at your first complimentary oil change.
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Mar 14, 2012 05:11
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Yeah, I'd stop by and ask, and maybe even drive another car. Maybe they'd help over the phone but I imagine you'd just get an "Aw, yeah, totally normal."
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Mar 14, 2012 14:26
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Skyactiv transmissions operate a bit differently. The torque convertor is setup so it has minimal drag while idling in gear so you might not feel it go into gear until you actually touch the throttle. Same for forward gears obviously, when you stop and go again you may feel a bump when you touch the throttle, that's the torque starting to do its job.
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Mar 14, 2012 14:33
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SiB posted:Skyactiv transmissions operate a bit differently. The torque convertor is setup so it has minimal drag while idling in gear so you might not feel it go into gear until you actually touch the throttle. Same for forward gears obviously, when you stop and go again you may feel a bump when you touch the throttle, that's the torque starting to do its job. I know what you mean, but I can rev it all I want and still nothing happens for ~4sec. Thanks for the replies though, I'll wait and see if it gets any worse.
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Mar 14, 2012 22:37
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Tacier posted:I know what you mean, but I can rev it all I want and still nothing happens for ~4sec. Even though the Skyactiv box is new, I can't imagine that being normal.
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Mar 14, 2012 22:41
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Tacier posted:I know what you mean, but I can rev it all I want and still nothing happens for ~4sec. Gotcha, it sure is time to visit the dealer.
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Mar 15, 2012 01:17
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Oh son of a... RE706's are on nationwide backorder. Tirerack has them but I don't see a point in paying $70 in shipping on top of having a shop mount, balance and install them when Tire Barn does that for free.
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Mar 15, 2012 16:52
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Cross-posting from the Post Your Own Ride thread...
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Mar 19, 2012 06:05
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Is that the speed or just regular 3?
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Mar 19, 2012 16:47
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It's an '09 MS3 GT. You can tell from the wheels and fog lights.
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Mar 19, 2012 20:18
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MetaJew posted:It's an '09 MS3 GT. You can tell from the wheels and fog lights. Don't forget the hood, as well.
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Mar 19, 2012 20:22
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Lightbulb Out posted:Don't forget the hood, as well. Ah, yes TMIC hump/crease. :3
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Mar 19, 2012 20:29
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Is the hood actually different? I've always gone off of the front bumper and wing - only the MS3 has that big wide rectangular grey plastic section, and the MS3's wing is slightly larger than that of a regular 3 hatch.
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Mar 19, 2012 20:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is the hood actually different? Doesn't it have the same sort of bulge as the MS6 to fit the intercooler? In other news, I ordered the tires from Tirerack and was sent a "we're sorry, this model is currently out of stock" notice. Why do the Mazda gods hate me?
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Mar 19, 2012 20:32
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