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leica posted:Cool. Vulcan Tire has 195/60/14 Azenis RT-165k's for $88 a piece. That's 20 bucks cheaper than Star Specs from Tirerack, and the reviews about them seem to be the same. Great grip, about the same wear, and decent in rain, just avoid standing water seems to be the consensus. Having had both on Miatas, the Star Specs are significantly better than Azenis.
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Mar 6, 2012 09:02
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I found someone selling an LSD out of an '04 Mazdaspeed. Is it feasible to get it to bolt into my '95? EDIT: Looks like it requires MSM axles. The guy is selling the diff for $150. It looks like axles would be another $170. Worth it? Grayham fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Mar 6, 2012 |
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Mar 6, 2012 09:04
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If it comes with the halfshafts it should work. I've never done it myself so someone else should confirm, but they should fit into the standard wheel hubs.
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Mar 6, 2012 10:06
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Lowclock posted:But how can you pass up a quality name like "Ling Long"? Sadly, that seems to be one of the better Chinese tires. Nothing compared to the great confidence that the brand "Achilles" inspires. Either these chinamen just found a mythology book or they have a sick perverted sense of irony. On the topic of Star Specs v Azenis, if you live in a drier climate (I'm in SoCal) then go for Azenis 110%. Unless TireRack has that crazy $100 MIR going on again the Starspecs are overpriced.
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Mar 6, 2012 10:34
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Grayham posted:I found someone selling an LSD out of an '04 Mazdaspeed. Is it feasible to get it to bolt into my '95? Diff with or without carrier?
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Mar 6, 2012 10:35
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Mr.AARP posted:Diff with or without carrier? It sounds like its the entire diff and housing.
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Mar 6, 2012 11:31
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Grayham posted:It sounds like its the entire diff and housing. Then that's a crazy good deal.
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Mar 6, 2012 11:58
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Unless something has changed since when I parted out a car last year that's a really good price. I got 500$ for a complete 1.8 type 1 Torsen differential, without halfshafts.
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Mar 6, 2012 11:59
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I'm trying to sell my 1996 1.8 (sort of) long block...
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Mar 6, 2012 22:23
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leica posted:Cool. Vulcan Tire has 195/60/14 Azenis RT-165k's for $88 a piece. That's 20 bucks cheaper than Star Specs from Tirerack, and the reviews about them seem to be the same. Great grip, about the same wear, and decent in rain, just avoid standing water seems to be the consensus. No, spend the $100 for the star specs. These are your tires, buy the best you can afford. I love mine.
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Mar 6, 2012 23:23
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Too late, ordered the Azenis because I need the extra cash. When those wear out I'll try out the Star Specs. Also let me just say I'm a dumbass because I didn't catch something that every used Miata buyer should look out for. I'm disappointed with myself because I worked with Miatas and have dealt with this issue before. Guess what it is and you can be a smug jerk about it and call me stupid.
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Mar 7, 2012 00:57
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Rocker rust?
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Mar 7, 2012 02:25
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DreamOn13 posted:Rocker rust? Crushed me when I found that on mine.
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Mar 7, 2012 02:40
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Wow first guess, I feel even dumber now   Driver's side  Passenger side
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Mar 7, 2012 03:07
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It sucks, but I'm not sure it would have been a deal breaker because it's the cleanest Miata I've ever run across for 3k. If anything I could have used it as a haggling excuse. As it was I already talked them down 500 from the asking price. Also power package (Torsen) and hollow spokes, exactly what I wanted and surprisingly has been hard to find in my price range around here, nothing but base models.    If anyone could remind me how to clean out the top drains that would be great.....IIRC there is a way to get into the rocker and clean it out but I don't remember. I'm probably wrong though
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 03:13
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Pick up a new radiator and check to see what's leaking out of the head. I love the Montego Blue Mica, and it's unfortunate to hear about your rocker rust. e: what the gently caress, rust on the driver side door sill?
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Mar 7, 2012 03:17
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I haven't done it but was told to remove the wheel well plastic bits and clean underneath them. More importantly (as a preventative which won't help you) is to clean the drains that run through the body and become clogged over time. A coax cable with no connectors is said to be perfect for this. There are two on the rear sill, cannot recall if others.
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Mar 7, 2012 03:32
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If your rockers are color matched, doesn't that mean the car has been painted? I thought the the lower 3-4 inches were all black from the factory.
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Mar 7, 2012 10:55
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Konrad posted:If your rockers are color matched, doesn't that mean the car has been painted? I thought the the lower 3-4 inches were all black from the factory. That was only the first few years (and the texture in the paint is definitely factory). And leica, that's some good rot there. Good news is that your rockers are self-draining now. When I found the rot on mine I talked to some of the big Miata names and one of the guys at FM characterized its effect as "making it handle like a wet noodle." It's a difficult repair, too. The good news is that you can stiffen it back up with the FM butterfly brace and repair (or cover) as you wish. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 12:13
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meatpimp posted:That was only the first few years (and the texture in the paint is definitely factory). I see. I'm dealing with the same issue on my '90. I bonded a patch on.  My ham fisted attempt at blending it in.  You can still see the overlap if you look carefully, but it's on the bottom of the car and I'm hoping some chip guard will help conceal it. I repainted the whole car after removing all the little dings that have been bugging me for the last 12 years. The car has some sentimental value. It's not perfect, but I did it myself.  
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Mar 7, 2012 12:59
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Konrad posted:If your rockers are color matched, doesn't that mean the car has been painted? I thought the the lower 3-4 inches were all black from the factory. Well guess what, the lower part is going to be black after I repair it. Will be ten times easier and cheaper than trying to blend in the color. I'm trying not to let myself get upset over it because I wanted a Miata to just drive and not baby, but the inner anal car nut in me wants everything to be perfect I'm really more pissed at myself for not catching it before I bought it, I looked at the car right when the sun went down and forgot my flashlight. I think I didn't even consider it because the car has clearly been garaged and is so clean, usually cars that sit outside have this issue.Oh well, just gonna have to fix it. Good excuse to buy a welder  Meatpimp, do you mean just the frame rail stiffeners, or the entire butterfly brace? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 15:40
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What I was told by a Miata nut is that the drains have a one way valve that really doesn't do anything but help clog them up. SOme people actually ream them out from underneath and break the valve open. That's supposed to be the one cause of the moisture which leads to rust. The second cause is that road dirt gets caught over time in the wheel well lining which is also a mini splash guard, which can be removed and cleaned, but I haven't ever done this nor do I have my car handy to confirm it's possible. Can any of you confirm the drain and wheel well bits?
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Mar 7, 2012 18:54
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It's pretty easy to remove and clean behind the plastic guards. I'm not sure what you're talking about about drains. I've only seen what looks like plugs, are they actually drains or are most plugs and there's a couple drains in special spots? If you do remove the splash guards you'll probably want a handful of replacement plastic fasteners because half of them will break when you're removing them.
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Mar 7, 2012 22:09
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craig588 posted:It's pretty easy to remove and clean behind the plastic guards. I'm not sure what you're talking about about drains. I've only seen what looks like plugs, are they actually drains or are most plugs and there's a couple drains in special spots?  http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s034_94.html pics of bottom drain holes http://www.rivercityroad.com/garage/drain.html top of drain hole (scroll down or search for drain hole) http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/04/miata-soft-top-removal/
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Mar 7, 2012 22:21
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Thanks! Seriously. I have a sloshing sound after heavy rain and figured it was just normal to slowly work its way out. I'm going out to check that out right now! I remember seeing those little bubbles and figured they were just a structural thing. Update: Oh no! I'm going to have to put the car up in the air and work on those. My drains are completely solid with rust which has then been covered by some sort of rust proofing making doing any sort of work on them incredibly difficult. At least it's from the south so it's not exposed to salt on the roads. craig588 fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 22:34
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Sorry to hear that. Well if you don't care what happens at the bottom of the drain try reaming them out from the top maybe? That's the proper maintenance process. Any debris which is carried off the fabric top at the rear of the top passes through those drains and they're small so they clog unless you ream them out after rains. It's a poor design. The hardtop covers those drains entirely as you can figure out when you look at them.
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Mar 7, 2012 23:02
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After an hour with a hammer and chisel I have 1 open on each corner. I did the better looking one of each pair, if I opened up all of them I'd probably be there another 3 hours. I blew out the rails with an air compressor and got at least 3 handfuls worth of sand.
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Mar 7, 2012 23:51
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I'm scared to start tearing into mine, I'm just praying it's not too bad behind the sheet metal. Also these Chinese tires are hilariously bad, it feels like the car has sponges for tires 
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Mar 8, 2012 02:58
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leica posted:I'm scared to start tearing into mine, I'm just praying it's not too bad behind the sheet metal. Your passenger side isn't bad. The driver's side may have some goodies underneath. I was thinking full butterfly brace when I had my car. That TSB linked above was from '94. How in the gently caress did I miss that? I ran the damned Garage section of miata.net and was into Miata stuff hard core from '97-07. HOW did I miss that? If I had seen that TSB I may have saved mine from the rot. Then again, I never worried about it, since it spent its entire life in a heated garage... such a bummer.
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Mar 8, 2012 14:55
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So what did you do with yours, did you fix the rust or did you leave it for the next guy Also would anyone happen to know why my parking/dash lights automatically come on when I turn the key to the ON position? gently caress. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Mar 8, 2012 |
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Mar 8, 2012 15:14
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leica posted:Also would anyone happen to know why my parking/dash lights automatically come on when I turn the key to the ON position? gently caress. Maybe jury-rigged DRLs? I'm trying to be positive today.
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Mar 8, 2012 16:28
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Yeah, more like jury rigged DRPL's. Not sure why that would be, but I'm hoping that's the case otherwise there is some wacky poo poo going on. Gotta love 17 year old cars! I keep running through my head the poo poo I need to do to this car as far as maintenence and just poo poo I need/want for it and the list seems never ending. At least tires are out of the way, best way to improve a Miata. Hey I found a good way to cover up some rocker repair, is this a bad idea.....http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/2842770235.html Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Mar 8, 2012 |
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Mar 8, 2012 16:36
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Taking care of a 17 year Miata is easy, just do what I did and replace 50%+ of the wear parts.
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Mar 8, 2012 22:03
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Are NA6 and NA8 shocks and springs the same? I can't find any info on it. I found a guy on craiglist selling NA8 racing beat springs. All I could find was that they were stiffer than the NA6 springs which would be better for the illuminas that I'm getting.
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Mar 9, 2012 22:55
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Tokicos  NA and NB have the same suspension setup with a few differences. 1.6 -> 1.8 should work just fine. For NB -> NA, the NB tophats are a much better design and Shaikh from Fatcat Motorsports can talk your ear off about bumpstop design and whatnot.
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Mar 10, 2012 03:12
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My experiences with Tokicos is that they like to leak. Not sure if they have improved the design lately, but I wouldn't use them unless I got em super cheap or something.
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Mar 10, 2012 03:21
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Thanks for the info. I knew about NA vs NB but not the two NA's. I would go with Koni's but my neighbor has the tokico's brand new from his old miata and he's selling them to me for $200. Kinda hard to beat that price when they're over $500 from Flyin' Miata. He's also got a lightly used Jackson Racing header that I might get too. The lack of money for a catback exhaust to go with it is kind of a damper though. Also, I hate craigslisters that never respond.
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Mar 10, 2012 05:00
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FatCow posted:Taking care of a 17 year Miata is easy, just do what I did and replace 50%+ of the wear parts. You must be doing it wrong, my 17 year old miata just makes me buy tires and change the oil.
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Mar 10, 2012 17:20
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Figured the best way to transport a new top was to strap it down to the old one. Picked up the car today, and I'm really happy with it. No more leaks, patches, or duct tape.
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Mar 11, 2012 02:53
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Mar 11, 2012 16:26
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