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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Where are you seeing CBR's for $3500? MSRP is $4k new without ABS and fee's. Honda hasn't had a hard time selling them so I can't imagine they are blowing them out. If they are though that could be the ticket for you if you like the style and it's what you consider affordable. Just remember a scratched CBR 250 fairing is going to cost 5x as much as a scratched ninja fairing. Whatever bike you get isn't going to look to sharp after you or the GF dump it the first time, and you will. http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2011-Honda-CBR250R-101435356 and there is a whole list of them. I will go check them out, thanks! I also know someone who is selling their 08 ninja less than 2k miles without a scratch for 3grand, So really I guess I could go that route.
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Mar 21, 2012 00:05
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fyallm posted:http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2011-Honda-CBR250R-101435356 and there is a whole list of them. I will go check them out, thanks! I also know someone who is selling their 08 ninja less than 2k miles without a scratch for 3grand, So really I guess I could go that route. I have a really strong feeling that $3,599 isn't including tax, tag and fee's. I'd buy the ninja right away if it's in good shape and has been taken care of. I bet if you go to the dealer and ask him what the OTD (out the door) price is on the CBR it's upwards of $4k.
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Mar 21, 2012 00:37
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I'd guess somewhere around $4500 - tax, title, registration, doc fees, and assembly (yay new bike) can easily approach $1000.
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Mar 21, 2012 00:44
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clutchpuck posted:I'd guess somewhere around $4500 - tax, title, registration, doc fees, and assembly (yay new bike) can easily approach $1000. Hell sometimes they'll even charge you for the damned freight. If they are having an issue moving bikes you may work a good deal but I would expect to pay no less than $4k and have to wait a week or so to get it.
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Mar 21, 2012 00:50
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To counter this dealer problem, have an envelope with forty $100 bills. Say "this envelope has the money for a motorcycle, I hope it's that one." Dealers will go a long way for an envelope of hundreds. If they can't make it happen, or try to get you to go above your budget, just walk out of the dealership. Either they call you back and make a deal, or you buy a bike for what you're willing to pay. You cannot be forced to pay more money for anything, ever (except maybe healthcare). If you think it's too much money, then just don't buy the thing. If the bottom-line out-the-door number on the paper you are about to sign is even a penny over what you agreed on, bitch the salesman out and leave.
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Mar 21, 2012 01:03
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I would like to propose that after a certain point, when a person is clearly not going to take the sound advice offered, we let them go their merry way and reap the comedy rewards. However, its important to do this without going too far in the opposite direction, say by overusing their name as a meme and constantly putting our I-told-you-so oars in to avoid creating another attention-seeking Obstinate-Defiant-Disorder having  spending egomaniac.Basically, let these people live their own idiotic lives, why are you all in such a hurry to keep them in the gene pool? edit: not specifically you fyallm, although you got my hopes up at first. echomadman fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 01:06
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echomadman posted:I would like to propose that after a certain point, when a person is clearly not going to take the sound advice offered, we let them go their merry way and reap the comedy rewards. Call it compassion, I don't like the idea of somebody dieing needlessly when a few stern words may change that. Especially considering how everybody here tried to talk to me before I went and acted like a tard. I'm having way more fun getting back into riding the proper way and I want other riders to experience the same. I'm not a bad dude, I just play one on TV.
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Mar 21, 2012 01:39
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Call it compassion, I don't like the idea of somebody dieing needlessly when a few stern words may change that. Especially considering how everybody here tried to talk to me before I went and acted like a tard. I'm having way more fun getting back into riding the proper way and I want other riders to experience the same. your custom title tells me you didn't listen either, you had to go and do it your way. I'm not saying don't give advice, just respect their right to make mistakes for themselves, maybe buy them a big red title if they've upset your sensibilities that much. they'll either wise up, or move along quietly after dumping a drunk girl off the back while doing a wheelie.
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Mar 21, 2012 01:47
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echomadman posted:your custom title tells me you didn't listen either, you had to go and do it your way. They can make mistakes all they want, that's their call. It's also totally within my right to call'em a dumbass. It takes way more than a squid on a gixxah to upset my sensibilities. Moot was really amusing because no matter what you said he knew better. I promise in the future that I'll only recommend stretched out turbo'd Busa's to newbies for your comedic pleasure.
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Mar 21, 2012 01:59
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Got a question for anyone that's worked on the petcock of the GS500. I replaced mine with a Pingel one and that rendered the vacuum part useless and I left it open. Fast forward to now and the bike's shuddering and dying under load after running fine for a week.. I open the choke at all; it dies and I need to wait to restart it. Fuel is flowing good and nothing is clogging the air intake; so something may be up with the carbs. I pulled the carbs and found a pinch in the left diaphragm close, but not exactly at the point where the vacuum tap would draw it's air. I'm thinking this caused the problems and I probably caused the pinch when I put the carb back together after I cleaned it last. Is is possible the open vacuum tap could cause this and should I try to plug it up?
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Mar 21, 2012 02:50
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So you mean, you took the vacuum petcock off and left the engine vacuum tap open to the atmosphere? So the engine is drawing unmetered air through an open vacuum line? Yes, that would cause a big problem. I'm surprised it didn't show up for a week, though -- it should have been instantaneous.
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Mar 21, 2012 02:52
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Commodore 64 posted:Got a question for anyone that's worked on the petcock of the GS500. You can stick a bolt into the vacuum line with some RTV sealant and it will fix it. If it comes off of a brass nipple you can get a cap for it from any auto parts store, and that's the proper way to fix it. I had to cap the vacuum line out of my carb when I put my desert tank on.
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Mar 21, 2012 03:24
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Commodore 64 posted:Got a question for anyone that's worked on the petcock of the GS500. May be similar in principle to scrapping the auto fuel control components on a Honda DOHC in favor of going manual, which is quite common. In this case, you absolutely must cap off the vacuum tap hanging off of carb #2. I don't know how the bike behaves with it off, I just trusted my DOHC elders on that one. BTW my 79-83 Honda brethren, Sean Grier of MacGregor Carb Cleaning has written up his DOHC-specific disassembly/refurb process in excruciating detail: http://www.cb750c.com/publicdocs/SeanG/Honda_Carb_Manual_revD.pdf
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Mar 21, 2012 03:30
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So my chain was loose and I tightened it, but I can't get it just right. The label for chain tension is in Italian, and says "20 % 25 mm". I'm assuming that means 20-25 mm, so basically 2 to 2.5 cm, so basically up to an inch of play. My question is this: the tension for when there's no weight on the bike or when I'm on it? It tightens up almost a whole inch when I sit on it and at that time it's got almost 1.5 inches of play. If I tighten the chain to an inch of play with no weight the chain is super tight when I sit on it. I am confuse.
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Mar 21, 2012 03:31
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Preferably when you're on it. The axle is further from the front sprocket when the suspension is loaded up. When you give it throttle, it'll compress the rear suspension even further, so its good to have the chain slack set with your mass weighing down the bike.
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Mar 21, 2012 03:34
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clutchpuck posted:When you give it throttle, it'll compress the rear suspension even further Say who what? I thought this was the opposite?
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Mar 21, 2012 04:13
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When you accelerate, the weight transfers to the rear of the bike. On deceleration it transfers to the front. Unless you have some really weird suspension, the rear should compress somewhat on acceleration. Maybe you're thinking of shaft
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Mar 21, 2012 04:19
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Ziploc posted:Say who what? I thought this was the opposite? It's a balance between weight transfer backwards, and the chain pulling the rear wheel forward, causing the rear suspension to stiffen up.
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Mar 21, 2012 04:21
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I guess it would compresses a little. I still thought the natural force on a swingarm type suspension was to lift on acceleration and compress under braking due to the torque of the wheel itself acting on the swingarm.
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Mar 21, 2012 04:27
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Keith Code says the rear suspension extends on acceleration. There you go.
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Mar 21, 2012 04:38
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invision posted:Keith Code says the rear suspension extends on acceleration. I'm helping a buddy setup some datalogging on his bike and I'm really curious to see the relative forces at work here.
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Mar 21, 2012 04:40
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If you want to slog through the bullshit, there's some pretty decent discussion here: http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118685 invision fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 04:45
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invision posted:Keith Code says the rear suspension extends on acceleration. Keith Code is my gospel. I wonder if this is specific for more sporty geometry. I always felt the rear squat down when I hit it on the (belt drive) vstar... can't really tell on the Uly 'cause I'm more preoccupied with keeping the front wheel down and the bike out of impound... Either way - 200ish extra pounds on the springs, making the bike work in corners, and the potential for potholes: I still say you should adjust the chain for your weight.
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Mar 21, 2012 04:49
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From Keith Code himself:Keith Code posted:Think of the countershaft rotating forward and how much force it has while pulling the chain to rotate the rear sprocket/wheel...The wheel/tire has no where to go but down. The frame and sub frame can rotate forward which raises the subframe fruther from the rear wheel. At the same time, the front comes up from acceleration so, both ends rise. e:And here's a big picture  Keith Code posted:So the torque reaction would be opposite that force pulling the rear wheel down and the other components would rise. invision fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 04:56
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You need chain slack so that as as the rear of the bike squats, it the rear suspension doesn't bind up on the chain, as the motion of the swingarm through it's arc causes the chain run to get longer. You need enough slack that it doesn't bind up, but too much causes driveline lash. I tend towards a little too loose over a little too tight, as too tight will eventually cause serious damage to the output shaft of the transmission.
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Mar 21, 2012 04:57
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Thanks for the helpful responses guys! Also, on bad roads: I rode to Fukuoka yesterday for the first time on my moped. Since it's not allowed on the expressway I had to take the local road, which is actually pretty scenic, winding along the coast. What sucks is that basically every corner is completely covered in blue or red HEY THERE'S A TURN HERE paint... great for dumb car drivers who can't be bothered to pay attention, not so great for anyone on two wheels. Made a mental note to watch my speed on them, and be extra careful in the rain. Got the 400cc license test coming up next week, have a feeling it's going to be a lot of wasted vacation days and money... 
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Mar 21, 2012 05:00
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I don't have a bike yet but since the rear axle is below the swing arm pivot, the rear suspension is going to try to extend. This is offset by the weight transfer to the rear of the bike under acceleration, I can't calculate by how much without some numbers though. E: fb MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 05:01
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Z3n posted:as too tight will eventually cause serious damage to the output shaft of the transmission. Or the bearing it rides on...
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Mar 21, 2012 05:04
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That's cool guys butFiendish Dr. Wu posted:So my chain was loose and I tightened it, but I can't get it just right. So, is clutchpuck right? Is it best with weight on it? If it says "20 % 25 mm" is about an inch of play with me on the bike good? I read on the ducatimonster.com forums that they often go about 30mm or so.
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Mar 21, 2012 05:10
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Fiendish Dr. Wu posted:That's cool guys but How are you measuring it? Each bike maker seems to have a different way of doing it. KTM measures from the top of the chain to the bottom of the swingarm. Kawasaki measures with the chain pushed down to it lifted up, some let the chain rest and lift it, some measure from top to bottom, etc. I shoot for roughly 2 inches of slack when measuring from top to top of chain, pushed down to lifted up.
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Mar 21, 2012 05:37
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ChiTownEddie posted:Has anyone taken an intermediate msf type class? Yea, a bunch of us took it last year and are talking about doing it again this year. It's a good refresher, and it's nice to attack some of those basic MSF exercises on your own bike if you're not as good about getting your parking lot practice in as you should be. Plus, it's fun to kick the rear end of that stupid figure 8.
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Mar 21, 2012 14:52
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Does anyone here have any experience on a Bandit 1250? I'm looking ahead to when I get my second bike. I'm also considering a Street Triple, but they're impossible to find used, and I really don't want to drop 10k on a new bike. Bandits are pretty common and can be had cheap. I guess the only thing I'm concerned about is the weight. The dry weight is 70-ish lbs more than my CB650. Would that really be noticeable? I dunno, it seems like a really good all around bike with a comfortable seating position, which is what I'd be looking for.
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Mar 21, 2012 15:09
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Zubumafoo posted:Does anyone here have any experience on a Bandit 1250? I'm looking ahead to when I get my second bike. I'm also considering a Street Triple, but they're impossible to find used, and I really don't want to drop 10k on a new bike. Bandits are pretty common and can be had cheap. I guess the only thing I'm concerned about is the weight. The dry weight is 70-ish lbs more than my CB650. Would that really be noticeable? It's second hand-experience, but I do own a Bandit 1200, and apparently the 1250's are a good step up in the torque department. Thats almost hard to fathom considering how unebelievably torquey the 1200's are. The 1200's hide their weight very well. Once you're rolling, the weight isnt apparent at all, and I would imagine the 1250's would be much the same. The 1250 motor is really neat, built from the ground up specifically for the Bandit, which is a rare move for Suzuki, who shares parts whenever they can. The Bandit seems to be something special inside Suzuki though, as it was the last bastion of the oil-cooled GSXR motor, long after it was dropped in other models, and then it gets its own, unique, stump pulling motor.
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Mar 21, 2012 15:54
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Zubumafoo posted:Does anyone here have any experience on a Bandit 1250? I'm looking ahead to when I get my second bike. I'm also considering a Street Triple, but they're impossible to find used, and I really don't want to drop 10k on a new bike. Bandits are pretty common and can be had cheap. I guess the only thing I'm concerned about is the weight. The dry weight is 70-ish lbs more than my CB650. Would that really be noticeable? Never riden one, but I'll just leave this here: http://www.mcnews.com.au/Testing/Suzuki/2011_PTR_Bandit1250/Bandit_1250_Tuned.htm
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Mar 21, 2012 16:03
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For people who have actually ridden the new Harleys with the rubber engine mount, how much does it reduce the vibration percentage-wise?
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Mar 21, 2012 17:59
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Rubber mounts vibrate like crazy at idle and smooth out once you're moving.
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Mar 21, 2012 18:04
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 OIL QUESTION What are the drawbacks of running 5w40 in a bike that the manual states 10W40? I know the first number is the cold viscosity and I would think in theory the thinner oil should be better on a cold start up, but I assume bike manufacturers know this too and are sticking with 10W for a reason? Is thicker oil better for some reason when cold?
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Mar 21, 2012 20:20
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slidebite posted:
More is likely to stay on parts when the engine isnt moving?
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Mar 21, 2012 20:35
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I think you would want to change it a bit earlier but in theory it should be fine. 5W will also be thinner when the oil is up to temperature, but probably no thinner than worn 10W. Some will switch up or down a weight if they are in an extreme climate.
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Mar 21, 2012 20:36
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Hmm, good question. You'd think a thinner oil when cold would be better, but that might be providing lower pressure. Unless you just won a lifetime subscription on 5W-40 I'd stick with the manual. It probably has a chart that says which oils are right for which climes, perhaps 5W-40 for arctic conditions and 20W-50 with anti-malaria additives for the tropics.
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Mar 21, 2012 20:41
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