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 Only took 6+ months, but I picked up my hardtop today after lucking in to a slightly overpriced (but color matching) top in great shape. Defrost and liner. I'm liking how quiet it is, and how free of holes and rips it is. blugu64 fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 00:02
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 Yes I'm whoring this thread up. Why the F won't this axle come out? I've PB blasted it, hammered at it, heated it with a torch, and the thing won't budge even with my 12 ton press. Nut came off no problem.
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Mar 21, 2012 15:49
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Sometimes they just get locked in there, not a drat thing you can do to remove it but replace it. The right rear of my NB is never coming out 
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Mar 21, 2012 16:18
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The rusty NB I'm working on had it pop out with just a tap of a deadblow. 
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Mar 21, 2012 16:26
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I have another tyre question - neither Azeni's nor Star Specs appear to exist in England, at least not in Miata sizes. Does anybody have any other recommendations for tyres to fit 14" x 6" wheels? I know Toyo makes T1-R's in all sorts of oddball sizes and I'd happily put those on but wanted some second opinions. r.e. the axle problem, do the splines twist easily on these? I have 0 experience with Miata axles but every other car I've seen that happen on the spline has made a nice spiral shape. 
jammyozzy fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 19:35
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That exact thing happened to the right front of my MS3. I'm pretty sure by the time you need a press poo poo has gone south since at this point you're probably mushrooming the axle further into the splines.
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Mar 21, 2012 19:46
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So the cheapo bluetooth OBD2 scanner arrived and I was able to pull the code that was causing CEL to come on from time to time. The code? P0500, speed sensor fault. I kind of figured it might be related to the speedometer not working from time to time  From what I've seen this could be either a broken cable, or poor electric contact on the speed sensor. How does this actually work on a 5-speed NBFL? I'm having a hard time imagining how both options are possible on the same car. I think I sometimes can hear some speed-correlated noise from behind the dashboard, but it's really difficult to tell with all the normal Miata noises.
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Mar 21, 2012 20:04
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jammyozzy posted:I have another tyre question - neither Azeni's nor Star Specs appear to exist in England, at least not in Miata sizes. Does anybody have any other recommendations for tyres to fit 14" x 6" wheels? I know Toyo makes T1-R's in all sorts of oddball sizes and I'd happily put those on but wanted some second opinions. dunlop direzza http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?customSizeSearch=&width=195%2F&ratio=60&diameter=14 If that's not the case I'd like to hear about it.
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Mar 21, 2012 21:45
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Sten Freak posted:I know AI considers the Azenis to be the best but I was told these were by a Miata guy. No, AI doesn't consider the Azenis to be the best. And this guy is in England, where tire rack does not sell.
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Mar 21, 2012 21:46
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Sten Freak posted:dunlop direzza Which he said isn't available in England. jammyozzy: What tire (or tyre) installers are available in your neck of the woods?
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Mar 21, 2012 21:49
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Sorry grouchy dudes, just trying to help and medicated for migraine.
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Mar 21, 2012 21:50
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The places I've been looking are https://www.camskill.co.uk/ (whose website looks shady as hell but they're legit), https://www.blackcircles.com and https://www.mytyres.co.uk I have an excellent local garage that fits them for me so no need for a fully fitted service. I guess my other question is how wide can I go on a 6" wide wheel? Is the stock 185 section my limit or can I go wider? *E* At this point I'm tempted to just throw trackday tyres on it for a giggle.
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Mar 21, 2012 22:37
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I know of a few people that fitted 225/45R15s on the stock 15x6 wheel. They were Hooiser A6 for autocross, though. Just checked out all 3 sites for 195/60R14s and it does not look pretty. The Falken ZE-912s aren't bad, but they aren't super sticky summer tires. They ride alright, provide a decent amount of grip, and are pretty drat cheap. You might need to look at buying 15" wheels to get into real summer tires, such as Hankook R-S2s which haven't been available in America for 2 years now (oh god).
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Mar 21, 2012 22:45
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That's what I was afraid of, I've already started looking at 15" wheels on EBay.
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Mar 21, 2012 23:12
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What is everyone's opinion on these for a '99? I like their looks, weight, and price. The only issue I have with them is that they require a lug adapter. Will I run in any issues using a lug adapter at all?
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Mar 22, 2012 00:08
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oRenj9 posted:What is everyone's opinion on these for a '99? I like their looks, weight, and price. The only issue I have with them is that they require a lug adapter. Will I run in any issues using a lug adapter at all? I'm partial to the 949racing wheels for any Miata. Why do you need a lug adapter?
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Mar 22, 2012 00:25
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They're 4x100 
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Mar 22, 2012 00:31
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I think the lug adapter may be in reference to the spline-drive lugs popular with many aftermarket wheels?
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Mar 22, 2012 00:52
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Tire Rack just put that as one of the free installation hardware but didn't provide a picture. I have no clue why they include it. It may be what IOwnCalculus said.tirerack posted:(16) Required lugnut for vehicle (Nickel Plated) I guess I'll go ahead and pull the trigger them then. The 949racing wheels look awesome, but they are a bit more than I'm wanting to spend. Thanks guys.
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Mar 22, 2012 01:11
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They mean hub rings most likely which aren't anything to worry about either way. E: oh wait just one, guess it's a deep well socket or something.
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Mar 22, 2012 01:38
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Piano posted:They mean hub rings most likely which aren't anything to worry about either way. Deep well socket makes sense here.
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Mar 22, 2012 01:50
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oRenj9 posted:What is everyone's opinion on these for a '99? I like their looks, weight, and price. The only issue I have with them is that they require a lug adapter. Will I run in any issues using a lug adapter at all?
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Mar 22, 2012 02:27
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mobby_6kl posted:So the cheapo bluetooth OBD2 scanner arrived and I was able to pull the code that was causing CEL to come on from time to time. The code? P0500, speed sensor fault. I kind of figured it might be related to the speedometer not working from time to time I just recently had to replace my speedo cable on my 96. It started with some squeaking/rattling coming from the front of the car at 40+mph and worked it's way to to right behind the dash at 20+mph. It also caused the needle to bounce a little bit at higher speeds. After I replaced the cable it was all remedied. I never got a CEL code for it though.
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Mar 22, 2012 04:19
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The place I got my cooper s from last year has a 99 w/ a hard top and ABS with 84k on it for $8,700. I don't like that it's red, and I think it's a little overpriced, but the place is really close so I'll stop there for a minute on my way to go look at this S2000 
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Mar 22, 2012 04:46
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blugu64 posted:
Awesome, looks great.
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Mar 22, 2012 05:35
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Anybody looking for a complete torsen upgrade? Looks like I have an extra one sitting around...
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Mar 22, 2012 19:01
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destructo posted:These look ugly as sin as is, but on a car they actually look ok.  I'm partial to the 6UL's myself. It's definitely worth saving up a little longer.
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Mar 23, 2012 04:20
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Anyone feel like telling me if this is worth jumping on? I've been casually looking for a cheap Miata, and this is sounding decent to me. 95 Miata, 100k ish miles. Has the Popular Equipment Pack so we should be good on the Torsen+other goodies. Seller says the AC isn't working (mumbled something about a compressor not working), and that there are two tears in the top, one maybe an inch or so, one more of a pinhole. Without me even asking he offered it at $3100. I'm trying to find a time to test drive today/tomorrow, but assuming it isn't rusted out it sounds like a pretty good deal. The AC I'd like to fix, but not urgently by any stretch, but the roof tears worry me a bit - can I just patch small holes effectively? Anything else I should be looking for?
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Mar 23, 2012 14:53
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I paid 3k for my '95 PEP with 130k miles on it, the only issue it has is rusted rockers where the roof drain is, but it's an easy enough fix. The car was really clean and well taken care of so I jumped on it, a lot of the Miatas out there (especially NA's) for sale are ragged on and need a lot to get them up to par. I would say if the car is clean and doesn't seem neglected it's worth the asking price. Maybe try to talk him down a bit because of the top.
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Mar 23, 2012 23:03
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I would talk him down exactly the purchase price of a new top plus installation. That thing will leak. If you patch it, it will look like rear end. The patches will eventually wear and crack themselves. If he doesnt budge then its just not worth it in my opinion. There are other miatas.
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Mar 23, 2012 23:14
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My top is using black gorilla tape to hold the rear window seal together along the top. Sure, it looks like crap but it keeps out water, cost me 5$ instead of the cost of a new top, and the top's down most of the time anyway. I'll replace the top eventually, but for now I'd rather spend money on tires.
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Mar 23, 2012 23:48
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Rocker rust isn't a big deal to fix? I always looked at much rust anywhere as a very bad thing. Welp, I'm driving it tomorrow morning. I'm not a total perfectionist, and I know that its going to be a car that would be eligible to vote in the upcoming election. If I can patch the holes to keep the thing watertight I'm all right with that. Is there anything better than the used miata buying guide on miata.net to know what to check out on the car? I want to make sure I'm not missing anything important.
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Mar 24, 2012 01:21
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Mutar posted:Rocker rust isn't a big deal to fix? I always looked at much rust anywhere as a very bad thing. It's really not that bad as long as you're not trying to match and blend paint colors. I'm just going to get the rust out, weld in some new sheet metal and paint the rockers black. The area that has the problem is pretty localized, about a 10"x5" area right in front of the rear tire, as long as it doesn't spread to far in it's not too hard of a fix. I didn't catch it before I bought the car because I was a dumbass, but I still would have bought it and maybe tried to talk the price down a bit more because of it.
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Mar 24, 2012 02:59
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eh - the cars black anyway, so color matching doesn't have to be exact. Good to know on that being a good item to negotiate on vs walk away from.
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Mar 24, 2012 04:26
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I drove
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Mar 24, 2012 06:00
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Idle droop? What's that?
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Mar 24, 2012 06:56
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Ever since I bought it - and it's been slowly getting worse over the ~70k between then and now - when you clutch out prior to coming to an actual stop, the engine tries to idle too low and shudders around until the car stops. Once you actually stop the idle picks up a hundred revs or so and smooths out, though less so lately. I think it just means the IAC is gunked to hell and back. Funny thing is it doesn't matter how long you coast for, it will keep shuddering along until the car itself stops.
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Mar 24, 2012 07:21
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jammyozzy posted:The places I've been looking are https://www.camskill.co.uk/ (whose website looks shady as hell but they're legit), https://www.blackcircles.com and https://www.mytyres.co.uk I used to never fit anything but Eagle f1 GSD3's, but they have gotten so silly expensive for 15" tyres and are now impossible to find so reluctantly went with the Toyos everyone raves about, they seem good from what little I have driven with them on so if you can find them in 14" I would go for them. I wonder if Americans and UK drivers like different things or the tyres both areas like are the same just made by different people for different markets.
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Mar 24, 2012 07:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ever since I bought it - and it's been slowly getting worse over the ~70k between then and now - when you clutch out prior to coming to an actual stop, the engine tries to idle too low and shudders around until the car stops. Once you actually stop the idle picks up a hundred revs or so and smooths out, though less so lately. I think it just means the IAC is gunked to hell and back. Funny thing is it doesn't matter how long you coast for, it will keep shuddering along until the car itself stops. Mine does this too. It's worse before the engine warms up fully, but yeah. If it's bothering you just blip the throttle when you stop, and that usually fixes it quickly. Apparently it can be caused by the EGR tube getting clogged up, I was getting a P0402 for a while. Cleaned out the intake manifold when I was doing my timing belt and it went away for a while, but it's slowly coming back. No codes though, and it's such a bitch to clean out I really can't be bothered to fix it.
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Mar 24, 2012 13:34
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Is there a way to eliminate the EGR? Would be useful in states that don't test.
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Mar 24, 2012 16:56
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