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dancehall posted:Don't think so. Here, this seems to be another angle of the same pedal http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ov0lFQkGnpY/TcdfNDTCMPI/AAAAAAAAAH8/St2t41Sy6sc/s1600/IMG_2156.JPG Hadn't seen that picture. Yeah, dunno if that's a big muff. I mean, it has the big shell and all. Could be a custom pedal?
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Feb 28, 2012 16:03
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Muffs in that size all have slanted enclosures.
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Feb 28, 2012 16:24
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I've had weird luck with my pedals lately. I sent the two broken pedals I talked about last page, the Russian Small Stone Phaser and the Big Muff Pi with Tone/Wicker, in to EHX for repairs and was semi successful. The Muff works now, which is great, especially since yesterday something popped in my Russian Muff and smoke started coming out of it so I don't think that's gonna work anytime soon.  If that goon who offered to fix it is in the thread still, please hit me up.The Phaser has the same issue it did before, where it takes a while for the effect to kick in. I think they might have turned up the effect level though, if that's possible and I'm not crazy about it. I feel like it was way more transparent before, I might just give up on it now and get a new phaser. Any suggestions on alternative phasers that are fairly transparent? I'm thinking like that light phasing in the verse parts of Hum's "Stars" or like Robert Smith of the Cure phasing.
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Mar 5, 2012 16:51
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Epi Lepi posted:The Phaser has the same issue it did before, where it takes a while for the effect to kick in. I think they might have turned up the effect level though, if that's possible and I'm not crazy about it. I feel like it was way more transparent before, I might just give up on it now and get a new phaser. Any suggestions on alternative phasers that are fairly transparent? I'm thinking like that light phasing in the verse parts of Hum's "Stars" or like Robert Smith of the Cure phasing. The limited controls on the Small Stone are one thing that was always a turn-off for me. Look into one that has at least a depth control in addition to the speed and mode (number of stages) and a resonance control if you can. I like the Boss PH-2, myself (the analog one, not the current digital PH-3). If you woodshed with a three or four knob pedal for a while, you should be able to dial in some good transparent sounds.
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Mar 14, 2012 06:07
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Anyone tried a Retro Sonic Phaser? It's supposed to be an MXR clone but with added knobs and sounds like what I might be looking for.
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Mar 23, 2012 18:47
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Sorry to double post, but cross posting from the Small Questions thread:Epi Lepi posted:I don't know how I didn't notice this but I've been running my pedal chain off of a 1 Spot adapter for a year and I just realized that my Deluxe Electric Mistress is supposed to require more than a 9volt power supply. I think it's supposed to be a 24volt power supply but my pedal works as is with the 1 Spot? I always thought it was kind of a noisy pedal, could this be why? Kind of weird question but why is it working and should I do anything about this power situation?
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Mar 27, 2012 19:55
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If you plug it into a 24 volt power supply it is going to sound different (the way it should sound). Voltage starving doesn't necessarily mean the pedal won't work, as you've found out, but it usually means the pedal just isn't getting enough juice to give it the sound it really should be giving out. Some companies actually make a voltage starve pedal/adapter to get the effect of what happens there, in particular to use with fuzz pedals. As far as the noise is concerned, it may be the case. Get a 24v adapter and give it a go.
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Mar 28, 2012 02:03
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ethan posted:If you plug it into a 24 volt power supply it is going to sound different (the way it should sound). Voltage starving doesn't necessarily mean the pedal won't work, as you've found out, but it usually means the pedal just isn't getting enough juice to give it the sound it really should be giving out. Some companies actually make a voltage starve pedal/adapter to get the effect of what happens there, in particular to use with fuzz pedals. And depending on the pedal design, it doesn't have to be a lot to make a difference. All the 80s Boss stuff says "9.6v" for a reason - if you run one from a standard OneSpot, they usually sound muffled and weak. Fortunately, you can get power supplies that run at 9.6v or have a DIP switch to increase the voltage.
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Mar 28, 2012 14:10
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After The War posted:And depending on the pedal design, it doesn't have to be a lot to make a difference. All the 80s Boss stuff says "9.6v" for a reason - if you run one from a standard OneSpot, they usually sound muffled and weak. Fortunately, you can get power supplies that run at 9.6v or have a DIP switch to increase the voltage. In the case of old Boss pedals this is not necessary. Just daisychain it with modern pedals and they work as intended.
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Mar 28, 2012 19:35
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I will need to start gigging with my acoustic, and rather than use a separate rig, I was thinking of just going through the same pedalboard as my electric. Any reason why I can't do this? Second question, has anyone used an octave/synth/harmonizer/other pedal to make their acoustic sound like a twelve string and how well has that worked?
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Apr 27, 2012 15:28
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Haven't tried it with an acoustic but you can get a halfway decent twelve string sound with the EHX POG 2. It's a little cheesy/synthy sounding though.
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Apr 27, 2012 18:04
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Drifter287 posted:Haven't tried it with an acoustic but you can get a halfway decent twelve string sound with the EHX POG 2. It's a little cheesy/synthy sounding though. The Ring Thing has a similar pitch shifter in it (though only -1 to +1 octave) for the same price as a micropog (though you only get 1 wet voice with the RT), but it also has the entire ring mod functionality too, so you can get trem, vibe, warble on your shifted pitch, etc.
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Apr 27, 2012 20:41
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POG style 12 string sounds are pretty cool, not like a real 12 string at all though.
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Apr 28, 2012 13:44
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massive spider posted:POG style 12 string sounds are pretty cool, not like a real 12 string at all though. Definitely. It's really just a matter of finding the right balance between the dry and wet signals to prevent the overly synthyness of the POG from coming through.
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Apr 28, 2012 17:29
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I've got an old Dunlop Roto-Vibe that I've had for about 10 years now. Unbeknownst to me I had been powering my pedal board with a 12v adapter rather than a 9v for an embarrassingly long time. I recently noticed and got an appropriate 9v supply and set it up. Now the Roto-Vibe doesn't work with the 9v supply but still works the 12v. Is it possible that it somehow adapted to the 12v? Is there a part I can replace to make it work?
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May 11, 2012 20:19
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I'd say it's more likely that the 12v adapter was within the parts specification for the unit, and the 9V adapter you've switched it to is either an improper supply (check the polarity, make sure it's putting out 9VDC and not 9VAC) or a malfunctioning supply. Actually, I'd lean towards malfunctioning supply, because if it was working and was the wrong polarity or the wrong type of power, it'd cook the fuuuuck out of your pedal. Polarity might only break the first few things it hits before they stop letting juice through, AC would flip quick enough to blow up pretty much everything in the unit if it's designed for DC power. IIRC it needs typical center-pin negative for the adapter. If the pedal features protection circuitry, that can sometimes eat incorrect polarity (and die in the process, serving its purpose) but allow the pedal to function when powered correctly. Sometimes though the functionality isn't quite right because it may have been hooked up long enough or done additional damage. Make sure it's really working like it used to at 12V, especially if you check the 9V supply and find that it's got a center pin positive polarity. If you fed it AC voltage, god help you, there's no telling what kind of damage it may have done. Seriously. I've had some of the weirdest repair work come through with pedals that got a little bit of AC, behavior that's just totally peculiar for the design. Here's what polarity looks like:  Positive polarity bad, negative polarity good (for that pedal, and for most pedals, but always check power requirements because it's not universally the case). Agreed fucked around with this message at 20:53 on May 11, 2012 |
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May 11, 2012 20:49
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Hey, I think I mentioned this a while ago, but a month or so ago I accidently hooked up my EHX Russian Muff to a 24V powersupply instead of a 9v and it understandably popped and smoke came out and that poo poo is dead. What are the odds this is fixable, or even worth fixing?
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May 11, 2012 20:52
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Epi Lepi posted:Hey, I think I mentioned this a while ago, but a month or so ago I accidently hooked up my EHX Russian Muff to a 24V powersupply instead of a 9v and it understandably popped and smoke came out and that poo poo is dead. What are the odds this is fixable, or even worth fixing? Fixable, probably. I'd reckon the PCB's just fine, copper traces and copper wire of the sort found in pedals don't really care about the "minor" difference between 9V and 24V. Worth fixing, questionable, because there's no telling what all parts in there croaked. Using a common power source an op-amp that's rated for +/-18V can operate at up to +34V safely (want a few for margin of error...). Transistors state their operating range and can be more or less forgiving depending on what kind they are, but exceeding the recommended voltage for the pedal is never a good idea. Caps, resistors, diodes will let out the magic smoke and not work anymore if you exceed their values. There's some variable tolerance but it's not much, and to them, the difference between inputting 9V and 12V could matter, the difference between inputting 9V and 18V is huge, and inputting 24V will overcome them totally. Gotta remember, resistors that are specced for a max of 9V or 12V but in the context of the circuit usually have, say, no more than +4.5V running through them at a given filter network or whatever are going to give up the ghost completely when you exceed their nominal safe values. Are you particularly attached to it? Parts cost to repair it wouldn't be high, there are plenty of schematics around for muff variants, but if you're not doing it yourself labor cost could be higher than getting a new one depending on how much the tech values his or her time.
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May 11, 2012 21:00
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Agreed posted:I'd say it's more likely that the 12v adapter was within the parts specification for the unit, and the 9V adapter you've switched it to is either an improper supply (check the polarity, make sure it's putting out 9VDC and not 9VAC) or a malfunctioning supply. It's not the polarity I checked that, and all my other pedals that I used before now work with the new supply. It still works with the 12v supply but it's rated at 9v as seen on the bottom of the pedal.
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May 11, 2012 21:09
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Agreed posted:Fixable, probably. I'd reckon the PCB's just fine, copper traces and copper wire of the sort found in pedals don't really care about the "minor" difference between 9V and 24V. Worth fixing, questionable, because there's no telling what all parts in there croaked. Using a common power source an op-amp that's rated for +/-18V can operate at up to +34V safely (want a few for margin of error...). Transistors state their operating range and can be more or less forgiving depending on what kind they are, but exceeding the recommended voltage for the pedal is never a good idea. I'm not particularly attached to it and I won't be doing the repair myself. I've got a Fulltone OCD and one of the newer Muffs for dirt so it's not like I need this one.
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May 11, 2012 21:23
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HollisBrown posted:It's not the polarity I checked that, and all my other pedals that I used before now work with the new supply. It still works with the 12v supply but it's rated at 9v as seen on the bottom of the pedal. Well, the only way that a pedal could "get used to" a higher voltage would be if something broke but the overall pedal still works at the higher voltage. Hard to say without seeing it and I'm unfamiliar with the schematic. You could look inside for busted parts, protection circuitry would likely be near the power input jack. If you see something blackened or blown up, that's a good clue that protection circuitry failed, but why it would then be passing 12V on and functioning fine, unsure. Epi Lepi posted:I'm not particularly attached to it and I won't be doing the repair myself. I've got a Fulltone OCD and one of the newer Muffs for dirt so it's not like I need this one. If it's not of sentimental value, the most I'd do is have a look inside and see how extensive the damage is. Again, blackened parts or exploded parts are good clues there. Start at the power input jack and see how far out they go. If it blew up a few things very early on they could then have acted as impromptu fuses, no longer making electrical contact to pass on the higher voltage and saving the rest of the pedal. Or it could be a disaster inside. The less stuff a tech has to repair, the cheaper it'd be, and you could at least try to sort of assess how obviously damaged it is. Parts are not individually expensive, even very good ones, with the exception perhaps of mojo NOS transistors and particularly high quality op-amps; you might be able to find someone who is an electronics hobbyist or a pedal DIY geek who could fix it up for you for a six-pack or something if it's a relatively quick fix.
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May 11, 2012 21:32
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Epi Lepi posted:I'm not particularly attached to it and I won't be doing the repair myself. I've got a Fulltone OCD and one of the newer Muffs for dirt so it's not like I need this one. If you want to sell it then I might be interested. Which version is it?
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May 12, 2012 03:09
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Agreed posted:
On things that aren't guitar pedals, usually barrel plugs have center positive because it makes grounding to the chassis a little bit easier. The de-facto standard for things that are guitar pedals though, is 2.1mm center negative mainly because of the ubiquity of Boss pedals. Older mainly American pedals (eg. early '90s era DOD, non-mains powered Electro Harmonix) used 1/8" phono jacks for power with +ve tips, so the sleeve on the plug is grounded to the case. At some point in the '90s/early '00s? EH got rid of the 1/8" and changed to barrel jacks with center positive. I'm not sure when they changed to Boss style center neg, but all the newer EH pedals in the die cast boxes use this polarity now. On the plus side  - providing you observe plug polarity all of this should let you run a bunch of pedals off of a single supply because they're all negative ground.The problem comes with fuzz pedals using germanium transistors which tend to be positive ground, even though they can still use Boss style center neg plugs. These need to be powered from a separate supply (eg. batteries, another wall wart, power supply with isolated outlets) to avoid shorting the power supply out. Edit: Now more Chalupa Joe fucked around with this message at 11:35 on May 13, 2012 |
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May 13, 2012 11:31
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not mine, but this pedalboard made me crack up so I'm sharing it with youse guys
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May 13, 2012 18:15
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dancehall posted:not mine, but this pedalboard made me crack up so I'm sharing it with youse guys Why-why-why-hy-hy-hy-y-y-y. . .
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May 13, 2012 18:31
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The Metal Zone makes it.
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May 13, 2012 18:33
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dancehall posted:not mine, but this pedalboard made me crack up so I'm sharing it with youse guys Let me guess... a post rock band?
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May 13, 2012 21:44
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Swap the Metal Zone for an HM-2 and I'd play the poo poo out of that board.
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May 13, 2012 23:16
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FancyMike posted:Swap the Metal Zone for an HM-2 and I'd play the poo poo out of that board. Doing that, and adding a superfuzz would make it the perfect shoegaze pedalboard.
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May 14, 2012 00:46
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Yea, the first thing I thought of when I saw that board was shoegaze. Seriously, that's one of the best pedalboard pictures I've ever seen.
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May 14, 2012 01:15
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That pedal board makes me irrationally angry. Honestly shoegaze and post-rock both make me irrationally angry. I have given so many guitar lessons to kids who only want to play it and they won't practice anything I give to them. I even had one kid who would bring a delay pedal to his lessons.
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May 14, 2012 01:52
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It's fun to play though, a short multi tap with swelling repeats while strumming jangly sounding chords gives you a huge wall of sound without too much effort... and easily covers up a lack of skill in the guitar player *cough* It worked for U2 *cough*
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May 14, 2012 02:09
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Bit of a xpost from the newest gear thread, but here's a photo of my newest acquisition, with my current playing set up: I'm sure I'll be going back on this within the month, but right now I have that feeling of satisfaction, like I'll just never want another pedal.
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Jun 2, 2012 22:17
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Right now I have Squier Tele Thinline Custom \/ Boss ME-25 (I only use the tuner, volume pedal, phrase looper and wah-wah) - looking to replace the effects I actually use and then take the ME-25 home to use for recording \/ Ibanez DS7 \/ Yerasov 9000v OD and (or) distortion \/ EHX Holy Stain (I use it mostly for reverb, but also the tremolo on a song or two) \/ EHX Deluxe Memory Boy with Boss FV-500L as an expression pedal for fun \/ Amp Questions: * I just ordered a Small stone which I guess should go between the OD/distortion pedals and the Holy Stain? * I want to use the Boss FV-500L as an expression pedal with the Holy Stain as well (not simultaneously). Can this be done if I got a channel switcher like an EHX Switchblade (would the TRS cables used for expression pedaling work in that?) * I'm not really happy with the Ibanez DS7. I would say it's a decent distortion pedal and it sounds like I want it to when playing chords but not on single strings/riffs. I play generic post-punky indie and use the DS7 as the first/light distortion effect - Drive knob almost all the way down. Then I use the Yerasov 9000v on a couple of songs when I really want to make noise. I'm thinking I should replace the DS7, but with what? Anyone have a good recommendation for a pedal suitable for just that light crunch that sounds good both with chords and riffs? OD instead, like a Tubescreamer?
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Jun 5, 2012 22:06
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What would you guys suggest for sort of a post-rock sounding reverb? I have a Hardwire RV-7 right now and I don't really care for it all that much. I'm looking for something warmer sounding and spacier. I've heard good things about the Electro-Harmonix Cathedral, but do y'all have any other suggestions?
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Jun 5, 2012 22:26
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:What would you guys suggest for sort of a post-rock sounding reverb? I have a Hardwire RV-7 right now and I don't really care for it all that much. I'm looking for something warmer sounding and spacier. I used to have a Cathedral. It sounded good and had a ton of options. Lots of options means it can take a while to dial in though. Saving presets is cool, and the infinite thing is really sweet and I was excited but then never really got much use out of it. Now I use a Dr. Scientist reverb and it's great, but way simpler. But simplicity was kind of a reason I went for that one and I'm real happy with it and all the reverbs sound really good. There's always the Boss RV-5 too and it's definitely a solid pedal.
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Jun 5, 2012 23:03
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FancyMike posted:I used to have a Cathedral. It sounded good and had a ton of options. Lots of options means it can take a while to dial in though. Saving presets is cool, and the infinite thing is really sweet and I was excited but then never really got much use out of it. Infinite as in the E-Bow effect?  I've got an E-Bow which I tried out with an electric guitar at first but I never was able to figure out how to use it properly. I've moved pretty much solely to my acoustic-electric now (Fender Stratacoustic), and since it doesn't have pickups, the E-Bow barely works on it. It'll produce some sound, but not enough to really do anything substantial with. Unless I'm using it wrong. Having that effect built into a stompbox would be phenomenal.
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Jun 5, 2012 23:11
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Infinite as in the E-Bow effect? Not the E-Bow thing, no. It's a momentary switch and when you hold it down it basically causes the reverb tails to go on forever. You can still play over top of it. You can sustain washed out chords or notes and then whatever you play while the switch is held down is unaffected. I feel like there should be a good demo of the feature somewhere, but I'm not finding one in my half assed youtube search.
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Jun 5, 2012 23:30
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FancyMike posted:Not the E-Bow thing, no. It's a momentary switch and when you hold it down it basically causes the reverb tails to go on forever. You can still play over top of it. You can sustain washed out chords or notes and then whatever you play while the switch is held down is unaffected. I feel like there should be a good demo of the feature somewhere, but I'm not finding one in my half assed youtube search. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AIFtPtuYow Fuuuuuuuck, I love this. Just the type of sound I'm looking for. I think I'm gonna have to buy me a Cathedral 
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Jun 6, 2012 00:55
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| # ? May 9, 2024 15:52 |
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It's really good. I didn't sell mine because it was bad, I was just using too few of the features to justify the amount of space it was taking up on an already tight pedalboard. Also yeah, that infinite reverb thing is very post-rocky
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Jun 6, 2012 00:59
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