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Yeah. Get a plug. I believe you can get plugs for everything except 99-00 miatas but dont quote me on that.
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Mar 24, 2012 17:32
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You make a block off plate for the intake, and you can just bend the tube off of the exhaust.
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Mar 24, 2012 17:42
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I just cleaned the poo poo out of my EGR today. Bot the unit, and the passage in the intake. There was so much crap in the passageway exit to the intake. Hopefully that solves my P0470 and rough/terrible idle during warm starts.
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Mar 24, 2012 18:56
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I believe I found the cause of my clunking/squeaking sound coming from the front-left.
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Mar 24, 2012 19:37
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Bolt backed out? Or poo poo be broken?
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Mar 24, 2012 20:46
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Looks like the bracket is bent, too.
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Mar 24, 2012 20:52
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Anyone care to comment the likelihood of these being able to get out one of my seat bolts that's stripped? Of course I have to find the hardest bolts on the car to have a stripped bolt head.
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Mar 24, 2012 22:42
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 Not a bad day. Highway 35 down the Mississippi River on the MN/WI border. 944 Timbo, 1990 NA Supercharged, My slow-rear end NA :/
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Mar 25, 2012 15:47
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dreesemonkey posted:Anyone care to comment the likelihood of these being able to get out one of my seat bolts that's stripped? It's worth a shot. That type of extractor has the best chance of working.
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Mar 25, 2012 18:17
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Otherwise, buy/use a socket that you don't mind destroying and fill it with JB weld and use that to get the stripped bolt.
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Mar 25, 2012 19:22
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Take it somewhere and have them tack weld a nut onto the stripped bolt if all else fails. Takes 2 seconds.
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Mar 26, 2012 01:37
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Went to my first autocross in my new NA. Loved it and will be doing it more for sure. It was also my first time driving with the BFGoodrich Touring tires on the wet. For some reason having a tread wear ratting of close to 700 means little traction so it was sliding everywhere. Dried out a little for my last two runs and it was still not gripy but not as bad. Also it was raing like hell on the drive back, I was sliding every where. These tires are literally scary when its wet out. I will be trying to wear these things out asap. Bonus, awful video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V7dI0r4SqU EDIT: Also is there anything I can use to increase the life of my soft top with the plastic window? Sadi fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Mar 26, 2012 |
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Mar 26, 2012 04:32
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Ziploc posted:Bolt backed out? Or poo poo be broken? The bolt backed itself out. The bracket is bent but I was able to pry it back up with a pry bar. I just need to find a bolt that'll work there.
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Mar 26, 2012 08:16
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Joe Mama posted:It's worth a shot. That type of extractor has the best chance of working. Would this + an electric impact be a horrible or super awesome idea? I guess the HF extractor set doesn't seem to be of the impact variety but I guess if I ruin one of the sockets I could live with that.
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Mar 26, 2012 13:24
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dreesemonkey posted:Anyone care to comment the likelihood of these being able to get out one of my seat bolts that's stripped? I used a different brand of those to remove a stripped seat bolt from my 91 quite successfully, hit it with some penetrating oil and let it soak in 5-10 min. then you should be able to get it without needing an impact. I have a 20" handle which helped quite a bit to break it loose initially then it came right out
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Mar 26, 2012 15:08
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winter.mute posted:I used a different brand of those to remove a stripped seat bolt from my 91 quite successfully, hit it with some penetrating oil and let it soak in 5-10 min. then you should be able to get it without needing an impact. I have a 20" handle which helped quite a bit to break it loose initially then it came right out Yea I have a 24" breaker bar I was using to get them loose (and in this case, strip it mercilessly). I was going to potentially use this as an excuse to buy an electric impact as well, hah.
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Mar 26, 2012 16:08
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Electric impacts suck. Drop the cash on a compressor and gun.
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Mar 26, 2012 16:11
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So I just picked up a 95 base model over the weekend. I've only gotten to drive it a couple hours so far, but it's been enjoyable. Unfortunately, I didn't realize until after I'd bought it that the top half of the steering wheel seems to no longer be attached to the underlying metal portion (a buddy called it "delaminated"). Since I doubt this is something repairable, does anybody know a good place to pick up a replacement steering wheel other than just poking around ebay? Maybe even an NB wheel if it will fit since it looks a little nicer. Also this is my first RWD car, how much of a difference would I notice by swapping my open diff out for a torsen?
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Mar 26, 2012 16:49
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I haven't done the torsen swap yet in my slow NA, but I can tell you that in the rain, 1st gear turns are a real pain with how much the inside wheel spins. That's about it.
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Mar 26, 2012 18:25
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Blaise posted:Electric impacts suck. Drop the cash on a compressor and gun. No they don't. For 35 bucks my HF electric impact has paid for itself 50 times over.
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Mar 26, 2012 19:16
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leica posted:No they don't. For 35 bucks my HF electric impact has paid for itself 50 times over. Also some of us don't have room for a compressor.
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Mar 26, 2012 19:20
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For the record, you don't need a huge compressor - I have a small one that takes up less than half the space under my workbench (mother-in-law got it for me from Costco) that seems to drive my impact gun pretty nicely. I do need to buy a better hose setup, though.
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Mar 26, 2012 19:36
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I've used air and electric, and my electric has never let me down yet. The only drawback is it's bigger and hard to get into tight spaces. I'm going to be picking up a Ryobi 18v cordless 1/2" impact here soon, should work fine for most of the normal stuff, then I can break out the big gun for crank pulley bolts and stuff like that.
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Mar 26, 2012 20:30
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Leaving for lunch today the troublesome front air-dam decided to get pulled off it such a way as to get stuck grinding... So I man-handled it right off on the side of the road and stuck it in the trunk. Besides wind-related noise is there any reason I can't run around like this permanently?
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Mar 27, 2012 18:53
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Do you mean the plastic "floor" of the engine bay? It does a lot of keeping dirt and water out of your engine, which anything rubber or metal (including electrical connections) will love. Also i've heard it helps cooling and (to a much lesser extent) aerodynamics. If you mean a front lip "spoiler", they are mostly for show and should have no effect. Although the GarageVary ones are giant enough to have a noticeable effect on cooling.
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Mar 27, 2012 19:05
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Do you mean the plastic "floor" of the engine bay? It does a lot of keeping dirt and water out of your engine, which anything rubber or metal (including electrical connections) love. Also i've heard it helps cooling and (to a much lesser extent) aerodynamics. Its a 'L' shaped piece that points straight down, mounted underneath the "mouth" area.
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Mar 27, 2012 19:06
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For show, you should be fine. Replace it or dont.
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Mar 27, 2012 19:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:For the record, you don't need a huge compressor - I have a small one that takes up less than half the space under my workbench (mother-in-law got it for me from Costco) that seems to drive my impact gun pretty nicely. I do need to buy a better hose setup, though. I'd like a nice compressor and some air tools but that's spending $500+ vs. $50.
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Mar 27, 2012 19:28
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dreesemonkey posted:I'd like a nice compressor and some air tools but that's spending $500+ vs. $50. Picked up my compressor for $75 off craigslist and my HF impact for around $65. It can be done for fairly cheap.
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Mar 28, 2012 00:16
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roadhead posted:Its a 'L' shaped piece that points straight down, mounted underneath the "mouth" area. It actually helps keep air from going under the car and into the 'mouth' and radiator. It's not worth worrying about unless you really want to pick one up at a junkyard or DIY one.
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Mar 28, 2012 01:39
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My car developed a weird security "feature": It will not crank unless the heater fan is set to off. I checked the battery,starter and alternator connections and those are all secure. I guess the next thing would be seeing if the starter's actually getting full power with a multimeter, but that doesn't seem like the easiest thing to do so I was hoping there was a power distribution bus I could poke at to see if anything's loose there. To be clear it properly kills the fans and radio when I turn the key to start, but it doesn't even try to crank, as soon as the fan switch is moved to off it cranks and starts easily. No security system or anything weird, it's a mostly stock 94 with the 10.5lb Flyin Miata flywheel. On the other hand it really doesn't bother me at all if this is a minor thing that won't get worse. I tried searching for anyone else with the issue but didn't come up with anything so I'm not sure if it's fine to ignore it.
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Mar 28, 2012 23:42
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So to help with handling despite the poo poo tires I'm planning to get an alignment. I was talking with a friend who races miatas and to quote "1.6 front camber, 2.3 back camber, zero toe, add some caster". Does this sound reasonable for a street dayly driver and autocross car. Also Im planning on keeping an eye out for some more 15x6s and some RS3s which are 225/45/15 that I could run to autocrosses. Im told they will fit, is this an awful idea?
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Mar 29, 2012 00:16
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craig588 posted:My car developed a weird security "feature": It will not crank unless the heater fan is set to off. I checked the battery,starter and alternator connections and those are all secure. I guess the next thing would be seeing if the starter's actually getting full power with a multimeter, but that doesn't seem like the easiest thing to do so I was hoping there was a power distribution bus I could poke at to see if anything's loose there. That sounds like a really bizarre grounding / short circuit issue. I'd check the wiring at the connectors and see if you've got any insulation that's worn off.
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Mar 29, 2012 00:23
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Sadi posted:So to help with handling despite the poo poo tires I'm planning to get an alignment. I was talking with a friend who races miatas and to quote "1.6 front camber, 2.3 back camber, zero toe, add some caster". Does this sound reasonable for a street dayly driver and autocross car. Also Im planning on keeping an eye out for some more 15x6s and some RS3s which are 225/45/15 that I could run to autocrosses. Im told they will fit, is this an awful idea? What type of suspension? Also those rates look absolutely ridiculous. 225/45R15s will fit on a 15x6, but it's not pretty. If you're running 225s, you want a 9" wheel. 205s deserve a 8" wheel.
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Mar 29, 2012 01:11
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Phone posted:What type of suspension? Also those rates look absolutely ridiculous. Im running stock suspension. He was talking off the top of his head so the numbers could be off. I want to stay in C stock so wider than 6 is out of the question. Would I be better off just getting star specs that fit? (205/50/15)
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Mar 29, 2012 01:35
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You're not going to get -1.6 in the front on stock, you'll probably max out at -1 on the driver's side. I recommended these a few pages ago: Front: -1° or -1.2° camber 0" toe (or 1/16" toe out, note: will destroy your tires) 4-5° caster Rear: Whatever you have on the front -.5° camber (so for -1° or -1.2°, go with -1.5° or -1.7°) 0" toe (or 1/16" toe in, note: will make your car easier to drive on the freeway; won't destroy tires) If you want to be competitive in autocross, get as much tire as you can on the wheel. With an NB, you can fit 225/45R15 with no rubbing on a 15x6 wheel.
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Mar 29, 2012 01:54
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Any of ya'll at VIR today? I know that's a silly thing to ask everyone but at the same time there's like 250 miatas here.
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Mar 30, 2012 20:00
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I think Phone is, he was running his mouth on facebook about it.
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Mar 30, 2012 20:32
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I saw the mess today, but I'm here for the Chump race.
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Mar 30, 2012 23:20
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Long shot... but anyone have a 4 wire 1.8L ignition coil in the Scranton, PA area? Mine decided to eat itself on my way home to Massachusetts and now I'm 400 miles from home and I'm pretty sure no one will have one in stock in the morning.
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Mar 31, 2012 03:25
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