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Safety Dance posted:Can't you take it to the auto parts store and dump it in with the used motor oil? I suppose technically you could, but they'll get pissy if you do it. The reason that those places accept oil for free is because they can sell it back to the refineries for recycling and get some small amount of money. If people pour in other chemicals (paint, chlorinated hydrocarbons, weed killer) it can ruin the whole batch. I don't think gasoline would actually affect the batch that much, since it's a refining product anyway, but make sure no one sees you doing it.
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Apr 2, 2012 04:47
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Well it's hard to make a good diagnosis without good information, so I'm going with either chain slap or pinging. Neither is particularly dangerous. The latter manifests itself under heavy load and/or high heat when gasoline ignites before or after when it should. If it does seem to be related to high load at low RPM, just downshift and run higher RPM up hills. Otherwise don't concern yourself. Definitely not lupus.
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Apr 2, 2012 04:54
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You can always run old crap gas in a chainsaw or lawn mower or something that isn't quite as performance-sensitive as your motorcycle.
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Apr 2, 2012 06:29
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MotoMind posted:Well it's hard to make a good diagnosis without good information, so I'm going with either chain slap or pinging. Neither is particularly dangerous. The latter manifests itself under heavy load and/or high heat when gasoline ignites before or after when it should. If it does seem to be related to high load at low RPM, just downshift and run higher RPM up hills. Otherwise don't concern yourself. Definitely not lupus. Cool, thanks for helping alleviate some of my concerns.  On an unrelated note, I have ordered a new fuel filter & some oil. Gonna be doing my first oil change (Yay!) Is it just as simple as: 1. Container under drain plug, unscrew & let the old oil flow. 2. Remove & replace oil filter. 3. Put back drain plug/nut/thing/whatever & filter nuts and screw on tightly. 4. Pour the new oil incrementally. Do I need to do anything specific like sealing the oil filter? And obviously, I will go for a swim and force feed the old oil to some dolphins. 
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Apr 2, 2012 06:44
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The oil filter cover will have one or more o-rings, which on a newish bike should not require replacement. I'm not familiar with the setup of the filter on your bike, but it should be pretty self explanatory. Maybe pay attention as you remove it in case there's something special, like a dowel or spring in there. Your drain plug may have a crush washer. If it does, you can replace it with an equivalent sized copper washer, or purchase another OEM washer. Tighten the drain plug carefully. It will not require much torque for the size of bolt it is. Do not go at it with an enormous breaker bar or else you will owe yourself a helicoil kit. Be careful when tightening the oil filter cover bolts. They do not require much force (~72 inch/lb of torque if 8mm socket). If you do not have a torque wrench, just screw them in by hand all the way, then tighten them in even passes with a small-handle wrench. Once you hit resistance, you don't need to go far. Once the surfaces are in contact, you only need to make them snug with fractions of a turn more. Additional force once snug will only damage the threads in your engine case. If you do own a manual and a torque wrench, these tasks will cause less anxiety. If you do not, just be mindful of the nature of the material you're dealing with. With wood screws, you need to compress the material to get a snug fit. Metal does not compress, so all you want to do is mate the surfaces and do a bit more so that they're truly flush and the bolt is under some tension. You can generally feel that transition to tension on low-torque fasteners when using the appropriate wrenches. Edit: And yes, running the bike first is important. Go for a spin around the block. This will put residue back in suspension in the oil. Make sure you let the bike cool down for maybe 10 min before draining so the oil is not too hot. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Apr 2, 2012 |
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Apr 2, 2012 07:07
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Make sure to get a new crush washer... actually get a few while you're at it, they're cheap. Don't retighten too tightly. Check the torque specs in the manual and follow them. Warm up the bike before you do it - oil flows better when it's hot. Because the oil is hot, you may want to get a box of nitrile gloves if you don't have some already - keeps your hands reasonably clean and unburned. If it's a screw-on type oil filter, just lube up the rubber seal on it with some new motor oil, and screw it on. Use the oil change as an opportunity to put eyes on parts of the bike you normally wouldn't. Its a good chance to catch trouble early and/or clean up grimy crevices.
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Apr 2, 2012 07:09
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Generally, the oil filter should come with new o-rings and springs, right?
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Apr 2, 2012 07:43
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Safety Dance posted:Can't you take it to the auto parts store and dump it in with the used motor oil? No, that's for used oil. They're pretty adamant about that, and with good reason, they recycle it. Pouring it out is horrid for the water table. Let's not poo poo where we eat, and with 7 billion people, there aren't many places we're not eating. If there isn't any water in it, I'd mix it in with the fuel of an old truck or something if you can. It'll still burn, just not too well, something not too sensitive like snowdens says. And thin it out if possible. You won't even notice it going through something like that.
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Apr 2, 2012 09:35
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Odette posted:Generally, the oil filter should come with new o-rings and springs, right? Going to go on a limb and say yes - mine did when I got it.
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Apr 2, 2012 10:01
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Your oil filter will probably need an appropriately sized wrench to get off; an automobile filter or strap wrench may be too big. If it's at all accessible, check that your wrench fits on the filter in advance. As discussed previously, getting metered oil into a tiny hole in the side without making a mess can be tricky, make sure you have an appropriate rig beforehand as well.
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Apr 2, 2012 23:16
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Haha, I just assumed his bike had an enclosed filter. Could be an external unit for all I know, though.
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Apr 2, 2012 23:59
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Don't tighten the everloving gently caress out of the oil drain bolt. Some P.O. did that to my last Ninja 250. Rage.
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Apr 3, 2012 00:51
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the walkin dude posted:Don't tighten the everloving gently caress out of the oil drain bolt. Some P.O. did that to my last Ninja 250. Rage. Or the filter. loving factory-tightened oil filter was such a bitch to get off. Turns out I didn't learn my lesson. Had a helluva time getting it off again yesterday when I changed the oil. I DID learn my lesson this time though. Hopefully.
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Apr 3, 2012 01:09
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So I was moving my cb350f around my shed and due to me being a complete idiot, it fell against the wall. It fell perfectly on the clutch lever and sheared along the where the lever goes into the left hand controls. I just applied JB weld to the lever to get it in one piece.....do I trust it for normal operation or should I try to find a used one with some patina on it?
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Apr 3, 2012 01:14
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Get a replacement they're cheap, usually.
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Apr 3, 2012 01:26
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clutchpuck posted:Get a replacement they're cheap, usually. Unfortunately the bike is from '73 and 100% original (minus wear items like tires and chains) and its very hard to find a genuine original (not NOS) clutch lever.
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Apr 3, 2012 02:22
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I'd ride with an epoxied clutch lever so long as the bike was 100% original. Just get a cheap lever while you look for an original one dude.
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Apr 3, 2012 02:32
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nsaP posted:I'd ride with an epoxied clutch lever so long as the bike was 100% original. That's probably the wisest course of action and what I'll probably do. Thanks E: Otherwise you'd see me posting in the crash thread about how my clutch lever snapped at the most inopportune time
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Apr 3, 2012 02:38
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Bloody Queef posted:Unfortunately the bike is from '73 and 100% original (minus wear items like tires and chains) and its very hard to find a genuine original (not NOS) clutch lever. A "NOS" level is literally "New old stock", as in original parts that were never sold. NOS is the genuine original part. Unless, of course, you're referring to the lever you broke in some sort of Schrodinger's lever paradox.
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Apr 3, 2012 03:11
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Before draining old gas into a bottle, make sure you haven't been using said bottle as a waterfall bong previously. Gas is now all over the drive way. I saw that you said not to pour it into the grass so I figured I should burn it before it ran off. The gasoline fire turned into a bonfire with wood from an old stool and I made marshmallows once the gas had burned off, but according to the police four cinder blocks do not count as a fire pit. I should be able to get fresh gas tomorrow and start the bike.
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Apr 3, 2012 07:33
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Godspeed.
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Apr 3, 2012 08:28
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Bloody Queef posted:So I was moving my cb350f around my shed and due to me being a complete idiot, it fell against the wall. It fell perfectly on the clutch lever and sheared along the where the lever goes into the left hand controls. http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB350K4-SUPER-SPORT-1972---1973/part_53680/
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Apr 3, 2012 09:08
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Bloody Queef posted:So I was moving my cb350f around my shed and due to me being a complete idiot, it fell against the wall. It fell perfectly on the clutch lever and sheared along the where the lever goes into the left hand controls. http://www.bikebandit.com/parts-unlimited-replacement-motorcycle-brake-lever?m=9197 It's repairable and silver soldering is the answer, JB-weld isn't. Not worth the trouble though.
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Apr 3, 2012 10:02
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No reply in the "what bike" thread...so another stab where there's more traffic... How much hurt am I looking at here? Asking is $1200. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNtrOGTya-4
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Apr 3, 2012 21:33
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Had a fuel delivery issue with my KLR-650 today. I was heading up a hill at a brisk pace (not WOT, but close. Maybe 5K RPMs) when my engine stopped making power. I turned around and tried to bump start it (don't know why -- seemed like a good idea). I flipped the petcock over to reserve and used the button, and it started right up. Sounds like I was out of fuel, right? Nope. I've got a translucent tank on the KLR. The fuel level was way above the level it is when I have to switch over to reserve. I got to my destination on reserve, did what I had to do, and left. I flipped it over to main and rode around for a while. I even flipped it over to off, emptied the carburetor, and the bike started right back up when I flipped it over to main. I've got a manual petcock (not vacuum operated), so it wasn't a vacuum issue. Bit of crud in the fuel? I don't see anything in the tank when I look (translucent, remember?). Does it sound like anything anyone's experienced before?
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Apr 4, 2012 02:35
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Could be that the vent hose is kinked, otherwise I'd lean toward something electrical. Intermittent connection somewhere, maybe coil?
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Apr 4, 2012 02:43
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While I'm thinking about these things, what's better, a Clymer manual or the Cyclepedia manual? Factory manual any good?
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Apr 4, 2012 03:06
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I've never heard of Cyclepedia before, so I can't comment on that. Clymers/Haynes will tell you most things and assume a basic level of knowledge, factory manuals tell you how to do everything and assume a higher level of knowledge. A Clymers would probably be fine in your case.
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Apr 4, 2012 06:12
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Weird question, but: are you allowed to take a motorcycle chain on a plane? I'm in the States right now and I've found a bunch of parts I need for much cheaper than they are back in Canada, but I don't have any checked luggage and paying the extra 25 bucks to do so would negate most of the cost savings. I figured they would be okay with a set of taillights, but a chain seems like maybe it could be a "weapon"?
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Apr 4, 2012 07:45
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Sagebrush posted:Weird question, but: are you allowed to take a motorcycle chain on a plane? I'm in the States right now and I've found a bunch of parts I need for much cheaper than they are back in Canada, but I don't have any checked luggage and paying the extra 25 bucks to do so would negate most of the cost savings. I figured they would be okay with a set of taillights, but a chain seems like maybe it could be a "weapon"? I've had them take away a laptop lock, which was a wire cable. I'm betting a chain is not going to get through easily. Checked baggage is another matter, no issues.
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Apr 4, 2012 07:51
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Jabs posted:No reply in the "what bike" thread...so another stab where there's more traffic... You're going to get what you pay for. The design is good, really old, but good. Like the guy keeps saying typical russian quality. The materials and manufacturing aren't very good. Still, it's $1200 and could run for quite a while - hell with most bikes at 2k miles it'd be a no brainer, but I know a guy whose motor mount bolt snapped from use alone. He had to limp it home. I would buy one, but I've got a full set of tools and like airheads. The question is do you like wrenching? Cause you'll probably be doing your own maintenance and jury rigging your way through strange repairs. Find the maintenance schedule and look at how often the oil needs changing to see what I mean. Check out https://redlegsrides.blogspot.com He rides Urals and likes them quite a bit. He's a nice guy, if you have any more questions shoot him an email. Tell Brady pointed you his way.
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Apr 4, 2012 09:37
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Jabs posted:No reply in the "what bike" thread...so another stab where there's more traffic... Don't those things have a top speed of 55 mph?
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Apr 4, 2012 12:57
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Whose jackets run large and come in mesh? I need to gear up and I am a very large guy. I usually need a lot more shoulder width than normal people.
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Apr 4, 2012 14:56
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Look at non-Euro based brands and you'll tend to find cuts that are a bit larger. Joe Rocket, Scorpion, Icon, Firstgear, Tourmaster, Cortech (I think?), etc.
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Apr 4, 2012 15:11
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I'm a big (in both senses of the word) fan of my Olympia Moab mesh jacket.
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Apr 4, 2012 15:15
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Two questions, if you don't mind: What bikes in the 100hp+ range also have a shaft drive? Sport bike/cruiser doesn't really matter. I've already thought of VMax and Goldwing, but don't know of any others. Ideally I'd like a really high revving sportbike motor, though, and preferably an inline motor rather than a v or boxer. What can I expect to pay for running motor/transmission of the above type out of some wrecked bike? Salvage yard or private party or whatever doesn't really matter at all, so long as I can get a drivetrain that works. Hopefully in Northern Nevada/Northern California or from some place that will ship for a reasonable price. Thanks! Oh shaft drive is very important I think for what I'm trying to do.
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Apr 4, 2012 18:03
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What are the negatives associated with using sticky race tires on regular roads?
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Apr 4, 2012 18:14
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An observer posted:What are the negatives associated with using sticky race tires on regular roads? They won't heat up thus won't get any grip if you're talking about slicks. Q2's, pilot pure's, etc - sporty track day capable tires are fine on the street.
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Apr 4, 2012 18:15
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Last week I got a Scorpion EXO 1000 to replace my busted HJC that they ended up refunding me for. Yesterday I was cruising and the nifty deal with it shade visor was getting jammed up halfway down. After I got home I popped the outer visor off and gave it a look. This little piece was rattling around, and fell out where the red rectangle is(the sun visor area, you can see a bit). Great. Looking closer it appears to be the piece that the cheek pad clipped into. So as I continue on my journey of breaking all the poo poo I own, could someone recommend helmets with decent build quality? I was only a bit less of a cheapskate going for the Scorpion but I'm tired of lovely helmets. I spent all of last season with a helmet that I had to worry about, I'm not doing it again. phone pics:  
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Apr 4, 2012 18:24
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Crayvex posted:Don't those things have a top speed of 55 mph?
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Apr 4, 2012 18:31
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