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nsaP, email Scorpion, I have no doubts they'd replace the mechanism (if it's replaceable) or send you a new helmet. My visor catch on my EXO-700 was a bit wonky when I bought it, and they just up and sent me new parts the day I contacted them.
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Apr 4, 2012 18:33
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An observer posted:What are the negatives associated with using sticky race tires on regular roads? Slicks are fine and dandy in a controlled environment. Slicks and a bit of rain and dust is a bit too interesting on the negative side.
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Apr 4, 2012 18:37
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nsaP posted:So as I continue on my journey of breaking all the poo poo I own, could someone recommend helmets with decent build quality? I was only a bit less of a cheapskate going for the Scorpion but I'm tired of lovely helmets. I spent all of last season with a helmet that I had to worry about, I'm not doing it again. My Shoei Qwest is treating me well. My only gripe is the whistle from around the visor. I can press it onto the helmet to stop it, but as soon as I turn my head to look at scenery or lane check, it gets sucked off and starts whistling again. Vents work well, comes with a chin curtain and breath guard. It has a round profile so it doesn't catch wind like a sail. It gets a lot of all-day interstate and it's seen some heavy rain, but it's holding together. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Apr 4, 2012 |
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Apr 4, 2012 18:41
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AncientTV posted:nsaP, email Scorpion, I have no doubts they'd replace the mechanism (if it's replaceable) or send you a new helmet. My visor catch on my EXO-700 was a bit wonky when I bought it, and they just up and sent me new parts the day I contacted them. I don't doubt that they would, but I'm still sending it back if I can. I just dealt with the same thing with another company and I really just don't feel like dealing with it again. With the HJC it took them 4 weeks to tell me it was unrepairable and to issue a credit. I'd rather spend a bit more cash and get something I don't have to worry about. Wasted my last curved gopro mount too...lame.
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Apr 4, 2012 18:43
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Two questions, if you don't mind: Does it need to be over 100? Because tons of 80s and 90s tourers with shafts can be had for cheap. Otherwise, look for BMW K-bikes, inline 4s with shafts and many in the 100+ range. The Kawasaki Concours also has a shaft and if you find one with wrecked plastics it will be very cheap. edit: also if you are doing some crazy project, post a thread.
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Apr 4, 2012 19:08
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Two questions, if you don't mind: Some of them until I got tired of clicking through wikipedia: BMW HP2, R1200, K1300, K1200 K1600 Yamaha FJR1300, VMAX Honda VTX1800, VFR1200 I'm not an engine whisperer but my money is far and away on a VMAX engine. Solid, reliable, old, relatively cheap(?). The one with the extra valve boost thingies gets about 150hp.
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Apr 4, 2012 19:09
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Ola posted:Does it need to be over 100? Because tons of 80s and 90s tourers with shafts can be had for cheap. Otherwise, look for BMW K-bikes, inline 4s with shafts and many in the 100+ range. The Kawasaki Concours also has a shaft and if you find one with wrecked plastics it will be very cheap. The engine will be going into an automobile that weighs somewhere around 1000 pounds, plus the weight of whatever engine I decide on, plus a driver that when fully kitted up with helmet/etc. comes in at a little under 200 lbs. So that's why I'm hoping for 100hp or better. Less would be okay, but if I'm going to do this I may as well go as big as possible for as cheap as possible. quote:edit: also if you are doing some crazy project, post a thread. Oh I will, don't worry. KARMA! posted:Some of them until I got tired of clicking through wikipedia: The VMax was my first thought, but my worry is that it would be a bit too heavy, and the V configuration might throw the front cylinder bank out a little too far forward. It's certainly on my shortlist though. And I hadn't thought at all about the BMWs, so that's a good thing to ask for when I call up the salvage yards.
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Apr 4, 2012 19:20
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Oh, 2+2=4.  It's going into a Panda. You're loving mad.
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Apr 4, 2012 19:24
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Using my elite paint skills on a generic image... I got my Bonneville (2010) finally back last week. drat I missed this thing. Anyway, I noticed last night after riding that there was some dampness that smells like gas on it. Nothing too extreme like puddles or running leak, but definite dampness as noted in red:  I guess its just a 'take it in for maintenance' dealio since my limit right now is changin the oil and cleaning/oiling the chain. Do you guys have any idea what the issue maybe and how much it may run me to fix it?
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Apr 4, 2012 19:26
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ChiTownEddie posted:Using my elite paint skills on a generic image... Pics not working for me but I would double check all the hoses etc. it's possible one has come loose.
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Apr 4, 2012 19:28
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Mr. Wiggles posted:The engine will be going into an automobile that weighs somewhere around 1000 pounds, plus the weight of whatever engine I decide on, plus a driver that when fully kitted up with helmet/etc. comes in at a little under 200 lbs. So that's why I'm hoping for 100hp or better. Less would be okay, but if I'm going to do this I may as well go as big as possible for as cheap as possible. Honda makes a rather nice 90° 1300CC V4. Added bonus, the output shaft is on the rear of the engine. Raven457 fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Apr 4, 2012 |
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Apr 4, 2012 19:45
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Mr. Wiggles posted:so that's a good thing to ask for when I call up the salvage yards. poo poo, I just noticed this. Do you actually know of any yards that have bike parts? I've never seen one (and I'm a "junkyards are playgrounds for adults" kind of guy). I've always wondered where totaled bikes went to rest; if there were bike-specific yards out there or something.
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Apr 4, 2012 19:49
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ChiTownEddie posted:Using my elite paint skills on a generic image... Looks like an oil leak from the valve cover?
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Apr 4, 2012 20:24
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Splizwarf posted:poo poo, I just noticed this. Do you actually know of any yards that have bike parts? I've never seen one (and I'm a "junkyards are playgrounds for adults" kind of guy). I've always wondered where totaled bikes went to rest; if there were bike-specific yards out there or something. Bikes are pretty small and the amount of junked bikes out there isn't large, so they get disassembled and recycled fast. There are recyclers out there who sell on ebay or operate in local markets ("Cycle Salvage" in the SF Bay Area), but not really junk yards as far as I know.
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Apr 4, 2012 20:28
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There's these guys in Sacramento, and there's a guy in Carson City who runs a motorcycle salvage operation as well. I understand there's more, but those are the closest options to me. That Honda V4 up there, what's that out of?
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Apr 4, 2012 20:36
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Mr. Wiggles posted:That Honda V4 up there, what's that out of? From the ST1300. It's fuel injected, if that factors into your scheming  There's a carbureted version in the Honda ST1100 bike, though it's slightly smaller (1100CC).
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Apr 4, 2012 20:47
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I'd prefer fuel injected, actually, since I'll be racing at all sorts of different altitudes an I'd rather not have to jerk around with mixtures at each racetrack.
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Apr 4, 2012 20:48
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Splizwarf posted:poo poo, I just noticed this. Do you actually know of any yards that have bike parts? I've never seen one (and I'm a "junkyards are playgrounds for adults" kind of guy). I've always wondered where totaled bikes went to rest; if there were bike-specific yards out there or something. http://www.apfmcsalvage.com/
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Apr 4, 2012 21:05
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Should I be concerned about a small amount of oil leaking from the center part (where it looks like a huge flathead screwdriver could fit) of my stator cover on my '89 KLR? I'm not sure what it's called, but it looks like the center part of this piece: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-KLR-650-KLR650-Stator-Cover-Left-Side-Engine-Oil-2008-2010-/270632595478
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Apr 4, 2012 21:57
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Radbot posted:Should I be concerned about a small amount of oil leaking from the center part (where it looks like a huge flathead screwdriver could fit) of my stator cover on my '89 KLR? I'm not sure what it's called, but it looks like the center part of this piece: Na, there's just an O-ring that goes right there. Pop it off and go find the o-ring at a hardware store.
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Apr 4, 2012 22:02
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Cool, thanks. I also noticed that my front rim is a bit dented, but I've heard that this is not the issue it is on tubeless wheels. Is there a way to tell what's an unsafe level of rim damage to a tubed wheel?
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Apr 4, 2012 23:03
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My front brake has been squealing. I'm at a bit under 5k miles, but I have no idea how long brakes should last. Am I looking at a pad replacement, or is there something else I should look at?
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Apr 5, 2012 00:21
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Radbot posted:Cool, thanks. I also noticed that my front rim is a bit dented, but I've heard that this is not the issue it is on tubeless wheels. Is there a way to tell what's an unsafe level of rim damage to a tubed wheel? It's not possible to tell, but people have ridden a lot of miles on dents that would horrify you. As long as the bead is kept in place and the aluminum isn't compromised, you're probably alright. You can post a picture and we can compare to rim carnage from ADVrider.
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Apr 5, 2012 00:29
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Two questions, if you don't mind: Submitted on behalf of Kawasaki Heavy Industries: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZcTvzqkIBQ Kaw had an entire line of shafted KZs in the late 70s/early 80s that meet your criteria. KZ1000s were 95+, KZ1100s were 110+, and KZ1300s were 120+. Slapping these on a modern dyno would probably yield results markedly different from those recorded in a mag review performed 30 years ago. Me, I tend to measure these things in terms of elevated heart rate. Edit: oops, didn't see the fuel injection requirement... Marv Hushman fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 01:26
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New rider post hoping for some help I recently bought an 01 Suzuki Bandit 600 that had been lowsided. I've been up to about 65 mph on it, and decided to get on the freeway the other day. I got up to 75, and it started to wiggle like a tankslapper. I immediately brought it down to about 65 and it started to go away, so I took the first offramp. Obviously something isn't right, so I'm looking for some help on how to diagnose what's broken. I'm going to go on a different part of the freeway though to double check that it wasn't road/wind conditions. In the meantime, what should I start looking for or have a mechanic look at?
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Apr 5, 2012 01:30
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Had a motorcycle lesson yesterday, two things I wanted to get cleared up: 1) For the slalom, at what point of the weave/lean is it best to give the bike a little bit of juice? I practiced it a bit and did alright, but there's definitely room for improvement. It's timed on the test, so gotta take it at speed; the instructor said to take it in third, which is what I've been doing. 2) Didn't get to the starting on an incline practice, it's a 10% incline on the test. I'm guessing: right foot on the rear brake, give it some extra throttle, slip the clutch as I let out the brake, when I start to feel the bike move forward, start letting off the rear brake?
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Apr 5, 2012 01:44
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Had a motorcycle lesson yesterday, two things I wanted to get cleared up: This might vary depending on what you're comfortable with, but I would be rolling on the throttle as I decrease my lean angle, and rolling off as I increase the lean angle. (If this is unclear, I can illustrate it) Edit: Like this. Green means go, blue means go less.  quote:2) Didn't get to the starting on an incline practice, it's a 10% incline on the test. I'm guessing: right foot on the rear brake, give it some extra throttle, slip the clutch as I let out the brake, when I start to feel the bike move forward, start letting off the rear brake? Sounds right to me. You'll get a feel for how the clutch engages when you practice. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 02:44
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Not sure if this a good place to put this question but I just bought a used bike from craigslist and I'm wondering how I go about transferring the title without having insurance on the bike? It's not running right now so I'd rather not insure it just yet. Do I just wait until I get it running to actually transfer the title?
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Apr 5, 2012 03:20
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There is usually a grace period during which you won't incur any fees by not transferring it. For example, in Florida you can transfer the title up to 30 days later and it's the same price. Also, some states don't require insurance to transfer titles. Again, in Florida, if the bike cost less than $1500 (or if the title says so), they don't give a poo poo. edit: Ignore, I'm a dumb. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 03:27
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Wait, what's going on here? You need proof of insurance to register a vehicle, but not to transfer the title. You can't insure a vehicle without legally taking ownership of it first.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 03:31
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Oh woops, I was thinking about registration the entire time I was typing that
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Apr 5, 2012 03:33
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Why worry about registering it if you're not gonna be riding it? Get it running first.
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Apr 5, 2012 03:37
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aw yiss posted:Not sure if this a good place to put this question but I just bought a used bike from craigslist and I'm wondering how I go about transferring the title without having insurance on the bike? It's not running right now so I'd rather not insure it just yet. Do I just wait until I get it running to actually transfer the title? FWIW, I recently purchased a motorcycle in California private party (off of CL). All I needed at the DMV was the title itself and the motorcycle was registered and title transferred within just a few minutes. In CA, they give you 10 days to register/transfer title any vehicle before an additional fee is incurred. CA did not require proof of insurance (I had it with me, but they didn't need to see it) before registering the bike. They didn't even care that I had a TX DL without a motorcycle endorsement either....
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Apr 5, 2012 03:49
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XYLOPAGUS posted:FWIW, I recently purchased a motorcycle in California private party (off of CL). All I needed at the DMV was the title itself and the motorcycle was registered and title transferred within just a few minutes. In CA, they give you 10 days to register/transfer title any vehicle before an additional fee is incurred. CA did not require proof of insurance (I had it with me, but they didn't need to see it) before registering the bike. They didn't even care that I had a TX DL without a motorcycle endorsement either....
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Apr 5, 2012 05:17
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Had a motorcycle lesson yesterday, two things I wanted to get cleared up: For 1 I just kept it steady the whole time as I was instructed (I also keep it steady when I practice my saloon on the road). For 2 - pretty much. Engage 1st, right foot on brake, release clutch to its grip point, give it some revs and basically make sure it doesn't stall/roll backwards as you let off the brake.
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Apr 5, 2012 06:07
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Should I go with a larger oil filter or something closer to stock (3.5 vs. 2.5)? There's murmurs about "oil cavitation" on the larger, but also that they might be better for the surface area afforded...
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Apr 5, 2012 09:26
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Bixington posted:There's murmurs about "oil cavitation" on the larger This makes no sense to me. Maybe if the filter is particularly large and there has been no adjustment for the extra volume and the oil has been effectively under-filled? I don't think you'll see much difference.
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Apr 5, 2012 09:48
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Safety Dance posted:This might vary depending on what you're comfortable with, but I would be rolling on the throttle as I decrease my lean angle, and rolling off as I increase the lean angle. (If this is unclear, I can illustrate it) Okay, I'll try that! Hopefully I'll get practice before I take the test again; don't want to go all the way to the driving school (almost 2-hour ride on my scooter away), but my friend with a 250cc Honda will be back in town tomorrow so hopefully I can practice on his. Shimrod posted:For 1 I just kept it steady the whole time as I was instructed (I also keep it steady when I practice my saloon on the road). The guy was definitely giving it a little bump of acceleration with each weave and told me to do the same, different philosophies, I guess. fake edit: when he dove right into the slalom without warning (with me on the back) I about poo poo a brick.
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Apr 5, 2012 11:47
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I'm not sure I understand why you'd give it extra throttle in some parts and let off in others - especially as the saloom is very rapid. Wouldn't it make it very choppy and unstable? That's why we were told to get to our 40km/h and hold it steady. Same with the figure of 8. Get to 30 and keep steady on the throttle otherwise it's unnecessarily choppy and more likely to be dropped. Maybe it's different on different bikes. I was on a ZZR250 and everyone else was on GS500's. Instructor was on a Virago though.
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Apr 5, 2012 12:51
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If you're speeding up and slowing down constantly, it's going to have the same effect as keeping a steady throttle in that you'll get through in about the same time. Otherwise, you'll be, as Shimrod said, throwing the load of your bike around unnecessarily the entire time, which is going to make it harder to concentrate on. edit: The purpose of the slalom is to show that you understand how the steering mechanics work, you shouldn't have to slowdownspeedupslowdownspeedupslowdownspeedsupetc. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 13:00
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