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At my MSF it was actually required that you do the slalom at a constant speed (40km/h I believe, yes). If you accelerated or decelerated in the middle you'd fail it. The point was to teach that if you need to suddenly turn tighter, you don't hit the brakes, you lean more.
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Apr 5, 2012 16:36
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That's what happened at my MSF except they were just looking for visually constant decent speed in 2nd because half the speedos didn't work. 
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Apr 5, 2012 16:56
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Re: the slalom, unless I'm remembering it wrong, it's fairly close together, and you want to maintain slightly open-throttle through the entire thing. Opening and closing throttle in the middle of that thing is going to ruin your turning ability.
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Apr 5, 2012 17:50
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Tell me about visibility in the rain. I understand the low grip part, but I'm afraid of not being able to see properly. Not that I want to ride in the rain. Some of the roads here are practically allergic to rubber when wet. I can't imagine riding on them with a motobiek.
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Apr 5, 2012 18:02
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It rained the entire weekend of my MSF, which was actually pretty good because after having to do emergency stops on wet pavement, no one was terrified of the idea of water on the roads.
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Apr 5, 2012 18:06
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Ziploc posted:Tell me about visibility in the rain. I understand the low grip part, but I'm afraid of not being able to see properly. With a full face visibility isn't too much of a problem unless it's a downpour. The wind running over the curved visor blows the water right off. Spray does come up from cars, but I try to stay out of it, mostly because I don't want that dirty water on me tho. Visibility because of the spray is just like a car. I've been in one storm where it started pouring so hard I had to just stop and sit getting soaked on the side of the road, because visibility was 5 feet in front of me. It's not fun sitting on a 1 foot road edge hoping any cars behind you stopped as well.
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Apr 5, 2012 18:10
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What about low city speeds though? Does the rain still move off by wind? Even on a clean (but noncoated) visor?
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Apr 5, 2012 18:19
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Ziploc posted:What about low city speeds though? Does the rain still move off by wind? Even on a clean (but noncoated) visor? Use gloves. Be amazed at clean visor.
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Apr 5, 2012 18:25
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What are everybody's thoughts on ASV levers? Looking at getting a refurbished set for $80 brake and clutch levers.
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Apr 5, 2012 18:25
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KARMA! posted:Use gloves. Be amazed at clean visor. This, some gloves have little wipers on a finger. For the most part I find if I just turn my head to either side most of it blows off, but I don't ride in the rain all the time.
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Apr 5, 2012 18:27
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savesthedayrocks posted:New rider post hoping for some help Do you have a picture of the damage? If you're sure the bike is straight, a speed resonance wobble is almost always swing-arm bushings. Does the bike brake straight?
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Apr 5, 2012 19:21
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EvilCrayon posted:What are everybody's thoughts on ASV levers? Looking at getting a refurbished set for $80 brake and clutch levers. Worth it.
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Apr 5, 2012 20:32
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With the slalom, I was taught to use the throttle to help steer the bike - getting on the throttle will help stand the bike up, and rolling off will help it to fall into a turn. Certainly felt a natural way to transition from turning left to right - stand the bike up exiting a curve with the throttle, rolling off entering the next one, using much smaller steering effort than doing it at a constant speed. This was for a reasonably fast slalom in a training course, something I unfortunately never get an excuse to do on the road.
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Apr 6, 2012 03:45
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Ziploc posted:What about low city speeds though? Does the rain still move off by wind? Even on a clean (but noncoated) visor?
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Apr 6, 2012 05:30
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Rain on the visor is rarely a problem. But you need to worry about fog on the inside. I'm still not sure what the best answer to this is. Pinlock. Pinlock is the answer. Just don't bring a cloth anywhere near the Pinlock insert or else it will scratch.
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Apr 6, 2012 05:46
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MotoMind posted:Pinlock. Pinlock is the answer.
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Apr 6, 2012 07:04
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Speaking of that, if anyone needs a (used) clear pinlock visor for a CL-16 I'll ship it for cost. I have some mounting bracket gear as well, leftovers from sending back a broken helmet.
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Apr 6, 2012 07:18
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astrollinthepork posted:No poo poo, they're a bitch to clean too. If you don't do it right, the surface gets hazy. It's touchy. They're like a miracle against fog though. I just leave mine in all the time. I've got a knock off pinlock. It works but after a year of constant use the bottom fogs up a touch. My next helmet will have anti-fog coating from the factory, you best believe that! [/terry tate]
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Apr 6, 2012 10:02
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I just picked up a Street Triple the other day, and my wife has a ER-6N. We are looking for a set of wheelstands for both bikes (so 2 sets all together). Is there suggestions or should I just buy whatever is cheapest? What I'd really like is something with wheels on them so I can move the bikes easier but I don't know how dumb of an idea that is or if anyone actually sells something like that.
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Apr 6, 2012 13:46
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We heard you like to wheel your wheelstands around while you wheelstand your wheels. I have never heard of a wheelstand with wheels, considering how easy it would be just to slide and slip.
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Apr 6, 2012 23:06
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My pitbull stands have wheels. It's perfectly stable rolling around and comes in handy more than you'd think.
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Apr 7, 2012 00:23
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I figure they'd have some kind of lock on the wheel so they wouldn't slip when you don't want them to. So something like that does exist?
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Apr 7, 2012 00:29
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Sir Cornelius posted:Do you have a picture of the damage? Sorry for the crappy pics     I'm pretty sure the bike is strait, and when I brake it is fine.
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Apr 7, 2012 01:28
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The service manual for that era says:code:
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Apr 7, 2012 01:37
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My chain has DID stamps and a 50VA every few links. Can I identify what kind it is?
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Apr 7, 2012 02:01
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Ziploc posted:My chain has DID stamps and a 50VA every few links. Can I identify what kind it is? It's a DID.
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Apr 7, 2012 03:29
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Probably a 50VA
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Apr 7, 2012 03:36
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But... I don't see the model listed anywhere on Google or their website... http://www.didchain.com/
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Apr 7, 2012 03:56
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Ziploc posted:But... I don't see the model listed anywhere on Google or their website... From some googling it appears to be a 530 chain. What's the bike?
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Apr 7, 2012 04:06
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JP Money posted:From some googling it appears to be a 530 chain. What's the bike? Bandit 600 Mk2. I only saw one forum mention that it might be a 530. Not exactly positive ID though. Just curious.
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Apr 7, 2012 04:22
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Ziploc posted:Bandit 600 Mk2. http://www.staniforths.co.uk/Documents/09-Chains%20Sprockets.pdf Page 431 (as listed in the PDF) calls a 50 chain a 530. Seems like a standard thing. If you can, you'll probably want to switch to 520 or 525 anyway if you're looking for a new sprocket / chain combo..
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Apr 7, 2012 04:58
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Ziploc posted:Bandit 600 Mk2. Yeah, you want a 530/50 chain, I'm running a 530VX on my Mk1 Bandit 600. It's way overspecced for a 600cc (the chain is good for up to 1000cc according to DID), so like JP Money says, a sprocket/chain swap to a 520 or 525 is an option. It would save you some weight and the chains are less expensive.
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Apr 7, 2012 08:33
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shaitan posted:I figure they'd have some kind of lock on the wheel so they wouldn't slip when you don't want them to. So something like that does exist? The pitbulls don't wheel when they are down all the way and holding the bike up. You lift the handle up a bit and then roll it forward or backward. 
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Apr 7, 2012 13:03
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You are a brave brave man. When my R6 is on my stands I live in fear that it will find a way to jump off. Here you are just pushing your bike around with it. How do you keep the handle bars straight?
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Apr 7, 2012 13:45
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It's not like I'm going around the block with them, just moving forward or backward in the shed to have more working room on whatever section of the bike I'm at. Handlebars will turn a bit, so I straighten them. When I got them I was paranoid as hell too, but after a dozen uses you realize it's basically turning the bike into a three or four wheeler and pushing on the side will barely rock it. You think that's bad, you should try a dirtbike/sumo center stand, especially with a bike that leaks motor oil and clutch fluid all over it.
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Apr 7, 2012 14:21
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Gnaghi posted:The pitbulls don't wheel when they are down all the way and holding the bike up. You lift the handle up a bit and then roll it forward or backward. That style of Pitbull might not, but my single-swingarm Ducati version sure does roll if you try to do something like loosen a very tight bolt. I was installing new rearsets the other day and that sure gave me a hell of a scare. Still, the bike was completely stable.
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Apr 7, 2012 15:36
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So how do I know what kind of rear/front stands to buy? I'm looking on the Pitbull site and it's mentioning how if my bike has spools to get a spool compatible stand (wtf is a spool?), and other sites are saying whether it has a dual sided swingarm or single sided swingarm. I know jack poo poo about bikes even though I've been riding for 3 years (never had to turn a single wrench on my 250)
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Apr 7, 2012 16:50
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I've finally come to the point, in my three years of motorcycle ownership, that I gotta adjust my chain. I've never done it before, amazingly. I went through 9 different bikes and haven't had the need to adjust chains before I moved on to the next bike (I measure slack every time I do chain cleaning). My 2000 SV650 is getting a bit loose. I got a few questions before I jump into the task. from what I understand, it's: 1. pull out cotter nut 2. loosen nut (on right side) 3. measure from pivot point to center of axle with tape measurement 4. use screwdriver to adjust screw points on the rear of the axle 5. make sure measurement from pivot point -> center of axle are the same 6. when done, tighten the axle nut, reinstall cotter pin How do I loosen the axle nut? I have the toolkit from a 2nd generation SV. There's two wrenches in there for working with the axle nut, and this adapter. How do I utilize 'em? How tight should I re-tighten the axle nut? Is a torque wrench really necessary? I have a new cotter pin coming in the mail. If the current pin breaks, am I fine to ride around without one?
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Apr 7, 2012 16:50
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the walkin dude posted:I've finally come to the point, in my three years of motorcycle ownership, that I gotta adjust my chain. I've never done it before, amazingly. I went through 9 different bikes and haven't had the need to adjust chains before I moved on to the next bike (I measure slack every time I do chain cleaning). My 2000 SV650 is getting a bit loose. I got a few questions before I jump into the task. If an SV650 is like all the other bikes I've ridden, you're pretty close. You might not need to measure with a tape measure, there might be measuring marks engraved onto the swingarm itself. I really wouldn't ride without the cotter pin in place, but that's just me. If you have to, you can run to an auto parts store or a hardware store, and they might have one.
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Apr 7, 2012 17:13
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shaitan posted:So how do I know what kind of rear/front stands to buy? I'm looking on the Pitbull site and it's mentioning how if my bike has spools to get a spool compatible stand (wtf is a spool?), and other sites are saying whether it has a dual sided swingarm or single sided swingarm. I know jack poo poo about bikes even though I've been riding for 3 years (never had to turn a single wrench on my 250) Spools are little knobs that sometimes double as swingarm sliders/protectors. Bikes don't usually come with them but you can order them. Single side is just that, a swingarm on only one side (Ducatis mostly). Double side is the U-shaped swingarm on most every other bike. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/89/29170/DPITEM/Street-Bike-Swingarm-Spools-BikeMaster-Race-Swingarm-Spools.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch the walkin dude posted:I've finally come to the point, in my three years of motorcycle ownership, that I gotta adjust my chain. Seems right though I haven't done it in awhile. I would torque it if you have a good torque wrench (everyone should). I also use this thing, which kinda works in the sense that the bike feels and looks straight but I'm never really sure whether it's perfect or not. I wouldn't ride around without a cotter pin either, mainly because you can get like ten for $3 at home depot.
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Apr 7, 2012 17:14
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