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the walkin dude posted:Chain adjustment If you don't want to just use the marks near the axle bolt for your alignment, this is the best little cheap tool you can make: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_adjust_chain/rear_wheel_alignment%3F
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Apr 7, 2012 17:25
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Err on the loose side of the spec. Also, the chain will tighten when you torque down the rear axle, so take that into account too.
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Apr 7, 2012 17:25
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edit - NM
GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Apr 7, 2012 |
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Apr 7, 2012 17:40
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If the rear is already aligned, why not just move it the same amount of ticks either side? (I think I need an adjustment too, and was thinking about whether I need to realign)
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Apr 7, 2012 18:18
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Gnaghi posted:The pitbulls don't wheel when they are down all the way and holding the bike up. You lift the handle up a bit and then roll it forward or backward. You run the front stand on the rear? Never seen that before.
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Apr 7, 2012 18:50
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? I thought this was the pit bull front stand.
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Apr 7, 2012 19:15
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Front stand: http://www.pit-bull.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PBMSA&Product_Code=F0100-100&Category_Code=front_stands Which is part of the stand you posted. Rear Stand: http://www.pit-bull.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PBMSA&Product_Code=F0002-000&Category_Code=rear_stands I've never seen someone use the front stand on the rear. I guess it shouldnt matter really, just never thought of it.
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Apr 7, 2012 19:18
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Ooooh. I gotcha.
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Apr 7, 2012 19:21
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No I use the rear stand I just googled pitbull stand for that pic. Speaking of, never use the front stand (on the front) without having the rear stand on the rear first. Probably common sense for most people, but not me. It didn't fall but it was unstable as hell. Edit: What is the top add-on part of that front stand for? So you can drop the forks?
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Apr 7, 2012 19:23
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Gnaghi posted:Edit: What is the top add-on part of that front stand for? So you can drop the forks? Yep
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Apr 7, 2012 19:53
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That's the Sport Classic rear stand: http://www.pit-bull.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PBMSA&Product_Code=F0061A-000&Category_Code=MSducati
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Apr 7, 2012 19:56
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Ah, I didnt realize that was specifically fo the sport classic. Not sure why you would need one specifically for it, but whatever
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Apr 7, 2012 20:05
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So I measured the pivot point to the axle nut: left side, 22 1/4 inch, right side 22 1/2 inch. I loosened the axle nut. And I unscrewed the left side swingarm's bolt. I assume that I gotta make the left side even with the right side. Do I leave the right swingarm's bolt tightened? I tried pulling back on the tire, but it isn't budging. Is there a way to do this without a rubber mallet, or do I need to go out and buy one?
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Apr 7, 2012 21:01
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Just pull harder. It'll go. It takes a good bit of effort sometimes and then chain can pull it back in. You may have more luck just doing it by turning out the adjusters.
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Apr 7, 2012 21:04
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Woot! Finished the task. Finally adjusted my first chain. Very awesome.
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Apr 7, 2012 21:47
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So who is knowledgable about a 1981 suzuki gs650e charging system? And also is there a group that rides together in north east Ohio?
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Apr 8, 2012 05:54
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kenny powerzzz posted:So who is knowledgable about a 1981 suzuki gs650e charging system? Follow this guide - http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
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Apr 8, 2012 07:40
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Another good, and cheaper, option for stands is T-Rex Racing. They aren't as purdy as a Pitbull, but they work great. I've had mine for a year now and have not had any problems. And as others have said, the wheels just let the stand slide/pivot into position when you put the bike up on it. I guess you could move it around if you tilted the stand up a little...but drat that would be scary. http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?category=9
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Apr 8, 2012 14:15
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Dellikose posted:Another good, and cheaper, option for stands is T-Rex Racing. They aren't as purdy as a Pitbull, but they work great. T-rex aren't bad but the set my room mate uses flexes a lot more than I would be comfortable with. He stores his R6 on them though so it shouldn't be bad for normal use.
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Apr 8, 2012 15:49
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Could I change the chain and sprockets on my F4i myself? Any special tools I'd need? The rear sprocket looks hooked, so I imagine the front one also is. And the chain is making a rattley racket more and more when I'm just pushing the bike around the garage. The chain has almost 20k miles on it, and I think the sprockets are original. Should I just bring it to the shop?
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Apr 8, 2012 18:01
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Ghost Cactus posted:Could I change the chain and sprockets on my F4i myself? Any special tools I'd need? The rear sprocket looks hooked, so I imagine the front one also is. And the chain is making a rattley racket more and more when I'm just pushing the bike around the garage. The chain has almost 20k miles on it, and I think the sprockets are original. Should be able to do it yourself - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndg2cLfVfZE - should be the same for your bike? When we did the one on my Kawa ZZR250 (which looks like it's pretty much the same as every other sportbike in the world) it was really easy. The only "Special" tool we used was a grinder for the chain link.
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Apr 8, 2012 18:10
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Change it yourself. You will need something for the sprocket bolts, the axle nut and bolt, a chain breaker/riveter, and something to remove the countershaft nut.** The greatest challenge, by far, is removing the countershaft nut. You will need a large socket, and a large breaker bar. An impact driver of some kind would be ideal, but not necessarily required. You must first remove the countershaft nut before you do anything else. You will want to put the bike in 5th gear so the wheel exercises the least leverage on the engine, and press the rear brake as hard as you can so that it will not turn, while simultaneously removing the nut off the countershaft. A helping hand is pretty important here. If you cannot stop the wheel with the brake, you can use more aggressive measures with straps and stuff. You will also need to break your existing chain if the master link is not clip type, and then rivet the new master link on your chain. You will need to make sure that you have the correct number of links in your chain. If the countershaft nut is an obstacle, you could figure out a way to have the shop just loosen the nut for you and coordinate the rest of the work around that. I would not recommend paying for shop time to do the whole job. **If your bike does not use a large nut to retain the front sprocket, disregard. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Apr 8, 2012 |
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Apr 8, 2012 18:21
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Ghost Cactus posted:Could I change the chain and sprockets on my F4i myself? Any special tools I'd need? The rear sprocket looks hooked, so I imagine the front one also is. And the chain is making a rattley racket more and more when I'm just pushing the bike around the garage. The chain has almost 20k miles on it, and I think the sprockets are original. One of these makes working on bikes a breeze even without a compressor. http://www.toolsmithonline.com/products/Kawasaki%E2%84%A2-12V-DC-Impact-Wrench.html not sure about that one but mine had crocodile clips to hook it to the bike battery like this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPACT-GUN-12V-RAC-wrench-kit-sockets-ratchet-torque-car-spare-wheel-caravan-/160657841263 that and a chain tool are all you need. if you have a grinder thats great but a hacksaw is just as good
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Apr 8, 2012 18:40
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Changing a chain is easy with the right tools so just make sure you have the right tools.
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Apr 8, 2012 19:33
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Hell, if you're already doing the sprockets, might as well get an endless chain. They're no more expensive, and you don't have to muck about with riveting or master clips.
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Apr 8, 2012 20:02
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Thanks for the write-up, video, and suggestions guys - that was super informative. Looks like I'll be buying tools and digging into my clymer manual. If I run into any snags, I'll post up!
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Apr 8, 2012 20:32
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AncientTV posted:Hell, if you're already doing the sprockets, might as well get an endless chain. They're no more expensive, and you don't have to muck about with riveting or master clips. An endless chain would require you to pull the swingarm.
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Apr 8, 2012 21:00
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MotoMind posted:An endless chain would require you to pull the swingarm.  I'm an idiot, disregard.
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Apr 8, 2012 23:01
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MotoMind posted:An endless chain would require you to pull the swingarm. And that's not a whole lot harder. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 00:06
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Also lubing swingarm bushings is good.
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Apr 9, 2012 02:11
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I was thinking about checking and adjusting my chain. But the Suzuki manual doesn't make it clear how the bike should sit during adjustment. It says to put the bike on the side stand for accurate adjustment. That doesn't sound accurate to me since the bike's suspension doesn't reliably get loaded on the side stand. (Also which way the steering is also affects rear suspension load on the sidestand no?) There is a youtube guide which suggests measuring when the bike is freestanding on it's wheels/pitstand (I don't have a pitstand) Also, if I end up adjusting the chain, do I have to tighten everything up bop it down off the centre stand and then on to the side stand to check? Final question, bike performs fine at the moment which leads me to believe everything is aligned all proper out back, would it be a bad idea to just make sure I move both adjusters the exact same amount using the built in measure ticks? Or is this lazy/stupid?
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Apr 9, 2012 04:48
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I put mine on the centre stand, adjust it, hop on it, put it down, reach down and check it then re-adjust as needed. I align mine using the markers on it - that is what they're there for after all.
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Apr 9, 2012 04:58
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kenny powerzzz posted:So who is knowledgable about a 1981 suzuki gs650e charging system? And also is there a group that rides together in north east Ohio? If you do come across a goon-friendly riding group that welcomes 25+ year old bikes in NE Ohio, let me know, I'll join up with my 1978 Kawasaki KZ650.
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Apr 9, 2012 05:00
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SimplyCosmic posted:If you do come across a goon-friendly riding group that welcomes 25+ year old bikes in NE Ohio, let me know, I'll join up with my 1978 Kawasaki KZ650.
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Apr 9, 2012 05:18
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I'm in Kent...let me know what's up.
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Apr 9, 2012 13:01
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Ziploc posted:I was thinking about checking and adjusting my chain. But the Suzuki manual doesn't make it clear how the bike should sit during adjustment. It says to put the bike on the side stand for accurate adjustment. That doesn't sound accurate to me since the bike's suspension doesn't reliably get loaded on the side stand. (Also which way the steering is also affects rear suspension load on the sidestand no?) There is a youtube guide which suggests measuring when the bike is freestanding on it's wheels/pitstand (I don't have a pitstand) Loosen axle nut, put bike on center stand, adjust chain to ~1.5-1.75in of slack, align with hash marks, tighten axle nut.
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Apr 9, 2012 13:26
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Some stupid rear end mother fucker hit my bike sometime between last night after 7 and this morning before 7:30 and of course didn't leave a note or anything. The only visible damage that I can see is a broken rear brake light and the mount for my license plate and reflector underneath it is bent in a little bit. Also, it was sitting on its kickstand with the front wheel/fork assembly locked and in first gear. Somehow this dumb cock smoking dip poo poo pushed it forward 3 feet scraping the piss out of the pavement but magically the bike didn't tip over. Me being a dumbass didn't call the police to file a police report because everything looked ok besides the brake light being broken, and I wasn't going to waste my time or the cop's doing a police report on a broken tail light. Everything shifts fine, it doesn't pull left or right, the frame doesn't look bent anywhere else, the front forks aren't bent, there was no puddle underneath it, and driving to work was fine, with the exception of hearing a terrible scraping sound every time I went over a medium sized bump. I looked at it with a co-worker and it looks like it is just the license plate and reflector hitting the tire. I didn't notice that on my own because it doesn't look bent too bad, but when a bigger guy at work sat on it, it gets really close to the tire. I checked the underside and there are no fresh scrapes on the underside of the engine where the oil pan is at. So that looks like it is solved. Is there anything else I need to check? americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 18:02
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Realized that I should probably buy a battery tender/charger since I'm working on the bike more than riding it and don't have a good way to charge my battery. What's the goon recommended one? Was leaning towards this one here. Is that a decent choice?
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Apr 10, 2012 00:27
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I decided to be responsible and take it to a motorcycle mechanic, it looks like my rear fender is bent out of line and that's causing the scraping sound. I'll need to bend that back into line, bend my license plate are back out, and replace my rear brake light and I should be back in business.
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Apr 10, 2012 00:38
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Viper_3000 posted:Realized that I should probably buy a battery tender/charger since I'm working on the bike more than riding it and don't have a good way to charge my battery. What's the goon recommended one? Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1334060635&sr=1-1 I've connected mine up to batteries for months during the winter and the batteries are still fine. The full size one may cook batteries based on personal experience.
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Apr 10, 2012 13:25
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