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davebo posted:When I got exhaust installed on my C5 the corvette shop said they only recommend Corsa because it's got the least drone, and I love it. I'm ordering the Corsa Sport axle back to finish off the package. The OEM exhaust was pretty loving loud as is, but at about 2600 -2800 RPM has some obscenely obnoxious drone. If you have the rear seats folded down, sounds like severe static due to everything in the trunk resonating. The corsa's will be quite loud as well, but I've always had extremely good luck running them with headers on my previous vehicles when eliminating drone.
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Apr 2, 2012 17:34
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Sorry, but optikalus snapped them up already. I'll be there as well. My gf and I will be the class-less people there chugging down a case of guinness.
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Apr 2, 2012 18:19
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Evil Bidness posted:I'll be there as well. My gf and I will be the class-less people there chugging down a case of guinness. We should definitely get together at least to say hello. What will you be bringing? I will (kinda obvious) bring the Shelby. So today I actually made a point of taking the Shelby on the freeway to see what the sound was like, and it was completely tolerable. At 75mph I'm turning 1750RPM, and there is almost no drone.
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Apr 3, 2012 01:01
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Imperador do Brasil posted:It has arrived! I have this, and I also have a mental list of coworkers cars not to park next to because it will set off their alarms
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Apr 3, 2012 16:00
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Imperador do Brasil posted:We should definitely get together at least to say hello. What will you be bringing? I will (kinda obvious) bring the Shelby. Yeah dude, I'm sure we'll see each other. I have a lowly lava red 5.0 
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Apr 3, 2012 19:50
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Imperador do Brasil posted:We should definitely get together at least to say hello. What will you be bringing? I will (kinda obvious) bring the Shelby. Nice. At 75 in mine, I was turning 2k+ which is where it started to get really loud. Anything under 2k was 'stealth mode'.
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Apr 3, 2012 22:00
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coolskillrex remix posted:Anything that deletes mufflers will have a poo poo ton of drone. Been doing my research, Corsa seems to sound like what I want. I just cant justify dropping $630+ on an axleback. I found one used for $450 but the guy wouldn't budge on price--and came across as a bit of a dick. I'm staying stock unless someone knows a good corsa distributor.
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Apr 5, 2012 19:49
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Locobono posted:I have this, and I also have a mental list of coworkers cars not to park next to because it will set off their alarms Sometimes you can't help it. There's someone at work with a late-ish model Ram that works a later shift but somehow ends up parked next to me at least once or twice a week...and just starting my stock MS3 is enough to make the alarm chirp like hell.
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Apr 5, 2012 22:24
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Finally got the Mustang out of storage and brought her home for Spring! For a car that was under a car cover and in a closed room, she is incredibly filthy. how the heck did that even happen!? So tomorrow I am taking her to get some sound and suspension mods. I cant wait!!!!
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Apr 6, 2012 04:12
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kalvick posted:Finally got the Mustang out of storage and brought her home for Spring! I don't even bother covering my '67 any more. I have conducted years of testing (  ) and it really makes no difference in regards to cleanliness or scratch protection whether you use a car cover or not. I've found that covers do more harm than good when it comes to scratches and such as well since people are more libel to lean against the car or put stuff on it when it has a cover. Add in that all but the super expensive covers end up trapping moisture inside of, and against, your car due to condensation and I just don't recommend car covers for any situation other than when you're painting next to a car.
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Apr 6, 2012 05:24
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frozenphil posted:I don't even bother covering my '67 any more. I have conducted years of testing ( Cat owners with cat accessible garages. Cats like few things more than walking on cars in garages.
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Apr 6, 2012 17:40
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Well I did the 1st mod of the season. Removed the entire Mach 460 system (except my existing aftermarket reciever) and went all aftermarket. It is a NIGHT AND DAY difference in terms of sound quality. An aftermarket stereo with stock everything else, made the audio sound lovely. I have no idea how I lasted 12 years with that. I am kind of upset with the final price, I wanted to pay about $200 cuz I thought the mach 460 would just come out and a new amp would go in. But I ended up getting a lot of extra things done. The amp alone ended up being $300.
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Apr 6, 2012 23:49
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Is the Shaker system in the current models good?
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Apr 7, 2012 03:24
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kalvick posted:Well I did the 1st mod of the season. Removed the entire Mach 460 system (except my existing aftermarket reciever) and went all aftermarket. It is a NIGHT AND DAY difference in terms of sound quality. An aftermarket stereo with stock everything else, made the audio sound lovely. I have no idea how I lasted 12 years with that. 300 is cheap for an amp - did you think good car audio was inexpensive or something?
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Apr 7, 2012 04:58
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Is the Shaker system in the current models good? I wouldn't say "good". I have the Shaker 500, and it's adequate for my needs. (non-car-audiophile) I find the Shaker 500 sounds decent with the bass set to zero or +1, but if you crank the bass up, it gets really muddy and distorted. On the Mustang forums I visit, most people say that if you really care about audio, it's better to go aftermarket than pay for the Shaker 1000. Plus the Shaker 1000 subs eat up valuable trunk space.
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Apr 7, 2012 09:18
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I have the shaker 500 in my '07 and I think it sounds pretty good, but I am not an audiophile by any stretch. It sounds much better than the stipper-spec system in my old subaru and our jetta, but that's not saying much. It sounds good enough that I won't put money into it unless something breaks. On a side note, I had to put foam tape at several places in the door panels because the door-mounted subs would make things rattle. The '10+ models should have better interior build quality so maybe it's not an issue now.
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Apr 7, 2012 15:32
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I went to a dealership to get a quote on a base 2012 V6 Manual today. (I kinda prefer the 2012 design to the 2013 man). The dealer would absolutely not move from the MSRP. Is this to be expected since they are running out of 2012s or is the dealer (naturally) trying to screw me over?
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Apr 7, 2012 17:22
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Two weeks ago, I quadrupled my horsepower by trading in a Yaris toward a manual 2012 GT Premium (400A). Tragically, I rear-ended a guy at 3mph six days later and now I'm stuck in a rental Malibu for who knows how long 
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Apr 7, 2012 18:18
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shodanjr_gr posted:I went to a dealership to get a quote on a base 2012 V6 Manual today. (I kinda prefer the 2012 design to the 2013 man). Where do you live? At Mac Haik Ford in Houston, they have 'no haggle internet prices' for Manual 2012 V6 Premiums for $23195, which I imagine is well below MSRP. I like the 2012s over the 2013s too. Edit: manual v6 base for $19295. http://bit.ly/InngvA Geology fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Apr 7, 2012 |
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Apr 7, 2012 18:25
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Did the stock 2000 GT exhaust have an H pipe/crossover?
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Apr 7, 2012 18:30
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shodanjr_gr posted:I went to a dealership to get a quote on a base 2012 V6 Manual today. (I kinda prefer the 2012 design to the 2013 man). Trying to screw you over. I've heard of some pretty crazy deals out there on the '12s.
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Apr 7, 2012 19:44
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The answer to is the dealer trying to rip me off is always yes, yes they are. They get paid based upon how much more you pay for the car then what it costs them. They don't always succeed, but they always try.
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Apr 7, 2012 20:16
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Geology posted:Where do you live? At Mac Haik Ford in Houston, they have 'no haggle internet prices' for Manual 2012 V6 Premiums for $23195, which I imagine is well below MSRP. I like the 2012s over the 2013s too. Geology posted:Where do you live? At Mac Haik Ford in Houston, they have 'no haggle internet prices' for Manual 2012 V6 Premiums for $23195, which I imagine is well below MSRP. I like the 2012s over the 2013s too. This is in NY. I'm talking to another dealer right now, will update with quotes.
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Apr 7, 2012 20:27
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wav3form posted:300 is cheap for an amp - did you think good car audio was inexpensive or something? Im not really a Car Audio Guy, I just wanted something that didn't sound like rear end. The money I spent over my $200 allowance, was to go for suspension mods next month. I was gonna get a Torque Arm/ Stiffer Springs, Drive Shaft, and get my subframes re done. Now I have to save for another 2 months
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Apr 7, 2012 20:51
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So I am looking at $24,200.00 MSRP for a 2012 with the performance package in racer red. Exactly the configuration I want. He's also giving me a not-so-bad trade in value for my 2008 V6 ($10.6k). Minus incentives + taxes I'm looking at $13.5k difference. I think I'm getting a new car.
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Apr 7, 2012 21:24
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That is a pretty good deal on the car. I'd definitely pull the trigger on that. As for the trade-in, I bet you could sell yours on Autotrader by the end of next week for $13k. That's what I would do.
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Apr 7, 2012 22:32
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Actually the car has a couple of things mildly wrong with it and its due for tires and maintenance. That's why I am not complaining about the price. Waiting on the dealer now to figure out the crappy ford ERP system. I am massively excited.
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Apr 7, 2012 22:38
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shodanjr_gr posted:So I am looking at $24,200.00 MSRP for a 2012 with the performance package in racer red. Exactly the configuration I want. He's also giving me a not-so-bad trade in value for my 2008 V6 ($10.6k). $24k for a premium with performance package? Or not a premium?
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Apr 7, 2012 23:40
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Base with performance.
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Apr 7, 2012 23:55
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How is that a good deal at all? KBB FAIR value for 2008 mustang no options 50k miles is $10.5k. Then on top of that youre paying msrp on last years model.. The dealer is raking you over the coals.
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Apr 8, 2012 01:39
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coolskillrex remix posted:How is that a good deal at all? Well, I i don't know if my 2008 qualifies as fair if you take into account that it needs rear tires and could use pads/rotor resurfacing at the front AND is due for its maintenance... MSRP on the 2012 performance package is $25100 (including destination) - $10500 for the trade $14600 * 1.0865 for tax = 15862.9 after tax. He's letting it go for $13500 which is $2362.9 in savings. Ford is doing a $500 cash incentive right now on 2012s and thats it... It feels ok to me. Not spectacular but I feel like its worth it for getting exactly the car that I wanted...
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Apr 8, 2012 01:56
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Fair: 18% of all cars we value meet this criteria. This car has some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing, but is still in safe running condition and has a clean title history. The paint, body and/or interior may need professional servicing. The tires may need replacing and there may be some repairable rust damage. So basically what hes doing is offering the car to you for msrp but not charging you tax or destination? Are you sure about that? Did he specifically say that, because if im a cars salesman what im going to do is tell you a number and then when you are about to close the deal tack on destination and tax because "i have no control over those" coolskillrex remix fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Apr 8, 2012 |
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Apr 8, 2012 02:39
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shodanjr_gr posted:Well, I i don't know if my 2008 qualifies as fair if you take into account that it needs rear tires and could use pads/rotor resurfacing at the front AND is due for its maintenance... He's doing the typical "trade-in game" to make it look like you're getting a better deal than you actually are. This is why you settle on a price for a car before you start talking about whether or not you're doing a trade-in.
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Apr 8, 2012 03:50
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shodanjr_gr posted:Base with performance. Oh drat, I thought that price was for a premium + performance. You shouldn't have much trouble getting 2-3000 of of MSRP.
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Apr 8, 2012 05:05
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coolskillrex remix posted:Fair: No, $13500 includes everything and its the price on the purchase agreement (only thing not included is the registration charges).
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Apr 8, 2012 17:47
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shodanjr_gr posted:Well, I i don't know if my 2008 qualifies as fair if you take into account that it needs rear tires and could use pads/rotor resurfacing at the front AND is due for its maintenance... Anything that's considered routine maintenance shouldn't count against you. You are in fact getting raked over the coals here on the trade, I assure you your car is better than fair. It'll cost the dealership nothing to get in selling condition and theres a good chance if the pads or rotors are suspect at all they'll change them before selling it. That said I have a feeling you're trying to dump a car that's having problems asap. I recall you were running the 93 bama tune and something was hosed up, like a misfire I don't remember. Is that the reason you're letting the car go for less?
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Apr 8, 2012 20:07
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kronix posted:
No that's not it. It's been running fine since I downtuned it to 87, I assume it was the winter fuel mix as you folks suggested in combination with the 93 octane tune. It 's just that the car is due for a bunch of maintenance and changes (for instance I wanted to get new tires & wheels on it since I don't trust the BFGs especially since the car lacks ABS/TCS). I added down the money I was going to spend on it, took a look at my finances and it actually made more sense to go for a new safer, faster and more fun car that won't cost me much in terms of maintenance for three years and put anything that would have gone into the 2008 (a solid chunk of change) into the car payments. I appreciate the comments on the financing, I understand that if I weren't obviously set into a readily available car WITH the performance package at a particular color I'd have a lot more wiggle room. Probably the dealer read that on me and wasn't THAT lenient. Although he still worked for me much more than other dealers I went to and was actually the only one who managed to source a car for me AND move on pricing...other dealers were like "Ooops, there's no car like that on long island, sounds like you are out of luck, have a stock 2013 at MSRP instead". e: The reason why I needed a readily available car is that I'm going on an internship over the summer (driving there) and if I were to take the 2008 along I would have to end up doing at least SOME of the work on it in order to bring it to cross-country driving condition.
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Apr 8, 2012 20:14
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Currently in the market for a new car and I'm trying to figure out whether to replace my 08 G6 or buy something less practical as a 2nd car. Right now, buying a 2nd car seems really impractical because I don't have anywhere to store it. A year-round car would better suit my sensibilities - I think. Looking for something sporty and fun to drive on weekends while being practical for daily use. I want to try something different and go RWD or AWD. The mustang seems like it might fit the bill, but I'd like some feedback: Anyone in New England have any experience with running a stang year round as a daily driver? I live in atlantic canada, so that's a fair approximation. Winter tires are a must, I imagine, but how would it hold up to salt, snow and cold on a daily basis? It would be sitting outside and exposed to the elements (no garage). I haven't test drove one yet (going tomorrow) but would like to know if anyone has been down this road.
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Apr 8, 2012 20:30
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Mostly flat Atlantic, or Gaspé Atlantic? I was in Seattle for their 12" week-long snow event and often the only two people at work were me (in my '98) and a guy driving an F-150. The Mustang is from Seattle, so it's in great shape rust-wise. It's been through two Minnesota winters now and has never been a problem, but of course driving any car through a real winter is going to cut years off the bodywork. If you're buying a new Mustang, I think your sole concern (unless you live in the Chic-Choc) is degradation of the body, and no way that cost is going to compare to owning two cars. If you wash it at least once a month, it'll be fine. There are places around here in Minnesota where you can get unlimited washes for $20/mo, so if you can do that and wash it every day on the way back from work I don't think it'll ever be a problem. You don't need winter tires, either, but if you've got extra money they're nice.
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Apr 8, 2012 21:32
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shodanjr_gr posted:No that's not it. It's been running fine since I downtuned it to 87, I assume it was the winter fuel mix as you folks suggested in combination with the 93 octane tune. It 's just that the car is due for a bunch of maintenance and changes (for instance I wanted to get new tires & wheels on it since I don't trust the BFGs especially since the car lacks ABS/TCS). I added down the money I was going to spend on it, took a look at my finances and it actually made more sense to go for a new safer, faster and more fun car that won't cost me much in terms of maintenance for three years and put anything that would have gone into the 2008 (a solid chunk of change) into the car payments. I dont understand why your 2008 requires all this "maintenance" Brake pads and tires... max $700. It sounds like youre trying to make up excuses that you NEED to buy a new car within X amount of days. I dont know why you would voluntarily put yourself in that position. I would never want to be under a time limit to buy a car where i just "buy whatever i can get"
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Apr 8, 2012 22:05
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