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Charcoal canister could be the issue. I know when it's no good you get the gas smell, but I don't think it would have anything to do with it running rough.
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Apr 4, 2012 15:53
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One of your ignition coils is probably bad, which causes a misfire, which in turn causes raw fuel to get dumped out your exhaust.
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Apr 4, 2012 16:50
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revmoo posted:One of your ignition coils is probably bad, which causes a misfire, which in turn causes raw fuel to get dumped out your exhaust. Which will destroy your catalytic converter if it goes on for too long.
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Apr 5, 2012 02:15
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Installed new plugs and wires today, as well as put some seafoam in. Still have a rough idle, so the vacuum lines are probably goofed up again. Also applied for collectors plates today. gently caress license tabs  . I should've done this 3 years ago when it was eligible
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Apr 5, 2012 03:35
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Alright, I did something really I am having problems getting it to stay running though. It has a megasquirt ECU from when it was turbocharged, but the map on it got wiped accidentally. My friend got it to the point where it will idle fine, but any time it revs over 2,500 RPMs, the engine dies. I can't seem to find a base map, does anybody know where I can get one? I plan on getting this onto a dyno ASAP, but I would like to get the car in at least drivable before then. Obligatory lovely Cellphone Picture 
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Apr 7, 2012 22:52
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Miataturbo.net, ask somebody on there. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_mazda_miata.htm http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/n76/usdm-mazda-miata-9900-18bp-mt.html
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Apr 8, 2012 01:54
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Thanks for that link. Reading through that explains the alternator issue that I've been having as well. I had chalked it up to a loose tensioner, I didn't realize that the ECU was responsible for regulating the alternator. At this point, I'm thinking that I should replace the injectors with stock ones and then take the megasquirt out.
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Apr 8, 2012 02:39
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If you get a decent base map and take 2 minutes to scale for the injectors it should run like stock. How large are they? Search miata turbo for req fuel or something. There's 2 settings you change to scale them. This is a pretty good setup guide as well for miatas specifically. http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2/v/megasquirt/DIYPNP_Megasquirt_Installation_Instructions_TS_3_1_0v1.pdf.html Edit: Found some more base maps, none for an NB though. http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/gen1/mspnp_downloads.htm http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/index.htm Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Apr 8, 2012 |
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Apr 8, 2012 12:17
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I just swapped out my 18 year old motor mounts for the Mazda comp mounts and the difference is really striking. The clutch bite point and changes in throttle are much more defined. Shifts are easier, and it's not like they were hard before. I heard that NVH would increase, but as far as I can tell it's pretty much the same. This is on a DD summer car so I wasn't too sure if I really wanted them or if they were just for track cars trying to shave tenths. If you're even thinking you might want the comp mounts you NEED them, the difference is huge and at least in my case I didn't notice any drawbacks.
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Apr 8, 2012 22:01
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If I've got about $4-5k to spend on a miata, is it better to get a NA that is in pretty good shape, or a NB that is high mileage, or is it up to my preference? This would be a daily driver that would see occasional track use. My gut says to get a decent NA and use the remainder to buy a roll bar or a hardtop, or to just fix poo poo on it, because I don't see the real advantages of buying an NB over a NA outside of aesthetics, of which I prefer the NA. Is there any glaring reason to go with an NB over an NA that isn't down to model year/mileage and personal preference on looks?
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Apr 8, 2012 23:52
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Korwen posted:If I've got about $4-5k to spend on a miata, is it better to get a NA that is in pretty good shape, or a NB that is high mileage, or is it up to my preference? This would be a daily driver that would see occasional track use. I dont know if it was just the NB seats or what but the NA felt larger to me and I had more head room. For 4-5k you should be able to get a quite nice 100k mile or so NA I would think, maybe even a bit lower mileage. I just bought my NA 2 weeks ago and I have to regrets. I drove my old accord again the other day, it felt like I was driving a land barge, almost felt like the car was drunk to me. There was no steering feel and such a soft rolly ride compared to my NA.
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Apr 9, 2012 00:07
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Sadi posted:I dont know if it was just the NB seats or what but the NA felt larger to me and I had more head room. For 4-5k you should be able to get a quite nice 100k mile or so NA I would think, maybe even a bit lower mileage. I just bought my NA 2 weeks ago and I have to regrets. I drove my old accord again the other day, it felt like I was driving a land barge, almost felt like the car was drunk to me. There was no steering feel and such a soft rolly ride compared to my NA.
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Apr 9, 2012 00:27
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The NB rides better and has a better head (but poo poo exhaust).
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Apr 9, 2012 01:13
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DreamOn13 posted:If you get a decent base map and take 2 minutes to scale for the injectors it should run like stock. How large are they? The injectors are 550cc. I'll try loading that map for the 97 off of DIYAutoTune and see how that goes. I actually ended up buying some factory injectors since I don't need the larger ones and I should be able to sell them for more than I paid for the stockers ($85). Hopefully this makes things much more simple. My big fear right now is the alternator regulator. My friend suggested that, instead of wiring up the alternator regulator circuit (since I have no clue how), I could try putting on one from an earlier NB and see if that fixes the problem where I get a battery warning light on three out of four starts.
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Apr 9, 2012 02:19
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Not really surprising, but NBs have nicer interiors.
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Apr 9, 2012 02:23
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Korwen posted:If I've got about $4-5k to spend on a miata, is it better to get a NA that is in pretty good shape, or a NB that is high mileage, or is it up to my preference? This would be a daily driver that would see occasional track use. In my experience just shopping for one, NB's in that price range were poo poo, at least the ones I looked at. I ended up with a NA for 3k and spent another 1k on tires, alignment, tune up, fluids, etc. So unless the car is perfect and needs nothing (good luck with that) budget in a good amount more for stuff like that.
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Apr 9, 2012 02:26
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oRenj9 posted:The injectors are 550cc. I'll try loading that map for the 97 off of DIYAutoTune and see how that goes. I actually ended up buying some factory injectors since I don't need the larger ones and I should be able to sell them for more than I paid for the stockers ($85). Hopefully this makes things much more simple. Fair enough. If you really wanted a stock ECU I'm sure you could post your MS for sale on MT.net and ask for a stock ECU in trade. You'd still make money there too. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 13:08
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The nicer interior was what convinced me to go for the NB, but I was generally looking for something newer and ended up spending more on it as well. Speaking of which, now that the weather is nicer I want to catch up with any maintenance that the PO could've neglected. It's a 2003 NBFL with about 60k km, so based on the age and the kms, here's what I came up with based on the workshop manual: code:I'd also flush and replace engine coolant, gearbox, turret and diff oils. What about other fluids or wear items that would be worth doing "while I'm there"? Or is something that I'm planning to do unnecessary at this point?
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Apr 9, 2012 15:55
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Just wanted to followup that the HF bolt extractor idea for getting one of my seat bolts out worked like a charm. They really bite on there, was a great $17 investment.
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Apr 9, 2012 16:18
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Anyone know anything about this Turbo kit? http://www.grahamgoode.com/website/parts.php?website=16&item=11540001
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Apr 9, 2012 20:45
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That exhaust manifold and downpipe look like crap, I wouldn't want to use one of those fuel pressure piggybacks either, but some people have success with them. The whole kit kind of looks like you'll end up replacing everything. Honestly I'd probably screw around with one of the 500$ China turbo kits before that kit, a bit less power but way easier to deal with when you realise you don't like any part of it. If you like the TD04 buy it alone and build up the rest of the pieces yourself, the turbo itself is about the only thing I'd trust on that kit.
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Apr 9, 2012 21:13
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How much would it cost to get one of these shipped to England?: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4519&parentid=0&stocknumber=22-10301%20%20BLK%20GAUGE Also, willie, James Thompson is too big and will never accept a ride in your Miata.
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Apr 10, 2012 03:45
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An old lady scraped up my rear bumper in a parking lot accident. It doesn't look like the plastic(?) of the bumper is gouged very deeply at all, but it neatly took off a patch of the paint so now my little Miata has this fleshy yellow spot. How should I repair this and make it look as natural as possible? Assume I know nothing about painting a car.
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Apr 10, 2012 06:23
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Even if you remove the bumper and drop it off somewhere it can be surprisingly expensive, I'm thinking between 100-200$. If getting panels repainted is much cheaper than that I'd love to know because my front bumper really could use a repaint. You can get the exact color code matching paint for under 20$ and touch it up yourself with a little brush, but it will only look good from 10 feet away. That's what I've been doing for the little rock gouges in my front bumper, it looks basically fine, but doesn't look great.
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Apr 10, 2012 06:49
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kimbo305 posted:How much would it cost to get one of these shipped to England?: He fits with the top down, just. I was amazed. I don't know, but garages over here want about £4k to fit something like that, which is taking the piss. willie_dee fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Apr 10, 2012 |
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Apr 10, 2012 08:30
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Feces Starship posted:An old lady scraped up my rear bumper in a parking lot accident. It doesn't look like the plastic(?) of the bumper is gouged very deeply at all, but it neatly took off a patch of the paint so now my little Miata has this fleshy yellow spot. How should I repair this and make it look as natural as possible? Assume I know nothing about painting a car. Tell your insurance to go after her insurance? Otherwise it's gonna be costly and probably below your standards.
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Apr 11, 2012 21:45
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Someone on Craigslist has a 95 M-Edition for $6000--is that a fair price? Alternatively they'd like to trade for a larger car and I've got an 02 RSX base--decidedly more expensive than an NA but I'm fairly lost when it comes to these M-Editions. About the only things I disliked about my 97 NA was the lack of LSD and somewhat lovely interior. This is far too tempting.
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Apr 12, 2012 08:25
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Thats actually a bit of a deal. 95 M edition is one of the more desirable ones, they go as high as $7500 sometimes.
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Apr 12, 2012 13:59
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Completely depends on the condition. I've seen them for 3k, and I've sold one for 10k.
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Apr 12, 2012 15:34
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Just did the top on my '92. Yep, it sucks. Best part? Whoever did the top last used no rivets, which really surprised me because the whole thing came apart so easily. Also rain rail only had 8/13 nuts holding it in place (loosely). Nice... that on top of the opaque plastic, pinholes, and rip in the old top should make this new one quite an upgrade  Edit:   
Blaise fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Apr 15, 2012 |
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Apr 14, 2012 02:54
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Enkidu vi Cuidado posted:Someone on Craigslist has a 95 M-Edition for $6000--is that a fair price? Alternatively they'd like to trade for a larger car and I've got an 02 RSX base--decidedly more expensive than an NA but I'm fairly lost when it comes to these M-Editions. I paid $5k for my 95M, no rust, 102xxx miles, good interior(bad steering wheel), paint was good until I lost my garage. Other than needing an alignment(the one it had was fun but ate tires) the only thing I've had to do is replace the power antenna and head unit after my tape deck quit. So, depending on mileage and just how good it is, that might not be too bad, or a little high.
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Apr 15, 2012 16:22
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I was given Krakkles' rusty nasty 91 Miata, which I sold for very little. I still have some parts lying around.
Offer me money, its cluttering up my 10x20' race garage!
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Apr 15, 2012 17:36
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DJ Commie posted:I was given Krakkles' rusty nasty 91 Miata, which I sold for very little. I still have some parts lying around. Interested in the Bilsteins. What kind of condition are they in?
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Apr 15, 2012 19:29
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I know every other page is half full of the same question but... I just looked at a '95, 18x,xxx (closer to 190,000 actually) asking $4500 with a new soft top, new brakes, newish radiator and tires. I got to drive it pretty spiritedly and it felt amazingly solid. I looked it over pretty thoroughly with some idea of problem areas based on this thread and noticed a few rust bubbles on the left back side where the trunk lid meets the body (normalish?) but the rocker panels and the trunk seemed solid. The seller had the carfax on hand and it lists two accidents one "right side impact" and one "vehicle towed". I got under it and looked at the frame on both sides and took some pictures:  Thats the right side and then I poked at it and this came out  I can't tell if thats just a seam or if there was a repair done there on the frame. If you guys say that's normal I'll probably offer $4200 assuming it needs belts, gaskets(?), and a water pump. I was also going to ask why on earth I would need a '95 Miata when I have a '11 Mustang GT but I no longer need to.
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Apr 17, 2012 23:33
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That seems like an enormous amount to pay for that many miles. I was planning on selling my 96 in pristine condition with 88K for $5000
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Apr 18, 2012 00:33
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Yea I got my 95 with 90k for $3k in pretty good condition from a knowledgable miata owner.
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Apr 18, 2012 01:01
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errrr it was 119,000 not 190,000. Although your points still stand. I guess the brand new top makes the case for it being that much if he payed $1200 to have it put on (what he claims), but that can't actually be passed on to the next buyer 100% either. I actually thought that was a pretty reasonable price based on casual reading of this thread, but KBB certainly says otherwise too. Where are you located for those prices? I'm in NJ. Edit: less casual reading of the last page looks like Blaise is looking at one with not too many more miles, plus a hardtop, also in or around NJ, for $1500 less. Neight fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Apr 18, 2012 |
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Apr 18, 2012 01:14
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See if you can beat him up on the price because of the rust there. It's something you should take care to slow the progression of it of but those frame rails don't really do a huge amount so it's not like the car is structurally unsafe. The stresses are mostly carried in the transmission tunnel and door sills. That said those rails have holes in the bottom for drainage so it is likely rotted from the inside out and will be a disaster to actually fix properly. Moral of the story, buy a southern car and drive it up to NJ.
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Apr 18, 2012 01:35
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FatCow posted:Moral of the story, buy a southern car and drive it up to NJ. Yes or just find a clean one. I have two completely rust free NAs and I got them both here in the Phila/NJ area.
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Apr 18, 2012 02:41
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Is it worth it to pay more for a higher-mileage rare Miata, or get a more common Miata at lower mileage? I found a local seller with a 1995 M edition miata, with a replaced black top and 175k. I think I could get it for 3-3.2k. But that's pretty high-mileage, I'm wondering if it's better to get a lower-mileage car instead and not try to get an M-edition. If you guys were buying a NA for daily-driving and the odd track day, what would you prefer, a fancier M with high miles, or just the lowest mileage, nicest NA I can afford?
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Apr 18, 2012 17:10
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