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AncientTV posted:Loosen axle nut, put bike on center stand, adjust chain to ~1.5-1.75in of slack, align with hash marks, tighten axle nut. Isn't it 0.8-1.2 inch of slack? At least for SV's.
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Apr 10, 2012 15:08
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How tough would it be to change my own tires, and what tool(s) would I need? I talked to some buddies about going in on some tools so we can all do it ourselves and save some cash.
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Apr 10, 2012 15:51
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orthod0ks posted:How tough would it be to change my own tires, and what tool(s) would I need? I talked to some buddies about going in on some tools so we can all do it ourselves and save some cash. For the past 2-3 years I've been using a cheap harbor freight bead breaker and 3 cheap generic tire spoons. Add whatever you want for lubrication (gojo works nice) and it isn't too bad once you do a few. Bead Breaker - http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html 3x Spoons - http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-general-purpose-tire-iron-93230.html NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Apr 10, 2012 |
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Apr 10, 2012 15:54
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NitroSpazzz posted:For the past 2-3 years I've been using a cheap harbor freight bead breaker and 3 cheap generic tire spoons. Add whatever you want for lubrication (gojo works nice) and it isn't too bad once you do a few. What about balancing it? I'm brand new to the process. What all is involved? What's a bead breaker for?
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Apr 10, 2012 16:01
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orthod0ks posted:What about balancing it? I'm brand new to the process. What all is involved? What's a bead breaker for? I don't worry about balancing and haven't noticed any difference between balanced and non tires. If you are worried about balancing a cheap one can be picked up or if you believe in magic look up dynabeads. Bead breaker is the break the bead (between the wheel and tire) so you can get the old tire off. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Apr 10, 2012 |
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Apr 10, 2012 16:33
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NitroSpazzz posted:I don't worry about balancing and haven't noticed any difference between balanced and non tires. If you are worried about balancing a cheap one can be picked up or if you believe in magic look up dynabeads. Cool. I did a bit more research, so I have an idea of what the hell is going on now. Is there any major way that I could gently caress this up and kill myself?
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Apr 10, 2012 17:41
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orthod0ks posted:Cool. I did a bit more research, so I have an idea of what the hell is going on now. Is there any major way that I could gently caress this up and kill myself? There is always someway to fuckup and kill yourself but it's pretty unlikely. Just watch some youtube videos to get an idea of what you're doing then give it a shot. Highly recommend starting on non-tubed tires, soft sport bike tires are even easier.
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Apr 10, 2012 18:07
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NitroSpazzz posted:There is always someway to fuckup and kill yourself but it's pretty unlikely. Just watch some youtube videos to get an idea of what you're doing then give it a shot. Highly recommend starting on non-tubed tires, soft sport bike tires are even easier. How reassuring. I will be doing tubeless... thinking of putting Michelin Pilot Road 2's on my Multistrada (just based on recommendations in the Multi forums). Any thoughts on those?
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Apr 10, 2012 18:19
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orthod0ks posted:How reassuring. I will be doing tubeless... thinking of putting Michelin Pilot Road 2's on my Multistrada (just based on recommendations in the Multi forums). Any thoughts on those? I run those on the SV and have been happy with them. Good life for commuting and enough stick for mellow track days or fun in the mountains.
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Apr 10, 2012 18:59
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the walkin dude posted:Isn't it 0.8-1.2 inch of slack? At least for SV's. I was saying if your rear suspension is unloaded. It definitely depends on how much your bike sags when it's on the ground, but from what I've seen, about 1.5in unloaded turns out fine.
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Apr 10, 2012 20:47
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orthod0ks posted:How reassuring. I will be doing tubeless... thinking of putting Michelin Pilot Road 2's on my Multistrada (just based on recommendations in the Multi forums). Any thoughts on those? My wife has those on her Beemer and I have them on the Uly; I love them. Work great in the wet, a western Washington necessity. For the purpose of mounting yourself, yes, they are fairly soft sport tires.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:21
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clutchpuck posted:My wife has those on her Beemer and I have them on the Uly; I love them. Work great in the wet, a western Washington necessity. For the purpose of mounting yourself, yes, they are fairly soft sport tires. Perfect. Unfortunately, I'm kind of hosed on the DIY front. Apparently, the tires will not pass inspection (even though they passed in VA last month). I have 10 days to get the bike inspected, but I don't have the proper rear stand for it, and won't for a couple weeks, so it seems I'm having them put on. Luckily, the shop has a deal on the PR2s, so I am getting those.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:26
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orthod0ks posted:Perfect. Unfortunately, I'm kind of hosed on the DIY front. Apparently, the tires will not pass inspection (even though they passed in VA last month). I have 10 days to get the bike inspected, but I don't have the proper rear stand for it, and won't for a couple weeks, so it seems I'm having them put on. You can change tyres in a parking lot with about $40 in completely re-useable tools a spare 40-ish minutes per tyre. You don't need stands or dedicated bead breakers or tyre changing stations or any of that bollocks, that's just stuff to make it easier if you're doing a lot of tyres. If your bike has a centre stand you can use that by weighting one end of the bike securely, and locking the stand open with a strap or something. I only have a kick stand and I just tilt the bike up off whichever wheel and bung a scrap of 2x4 or something under a hard point to hold the bike like a tripod between the remaining wheel, support and stand. Breaking the bead is the hardest bit in my opinion, you can do it: By driving over the tyre in a van Using a 2x4 and a spare car Using the kick stand With a squeeze grip clamp(my favourite method) From there on it's all about keeping the rim of the tyre in the centre of the wheel (referred to as 'Drop centre'). The only tools you really need to buy are two tyre levers and some kind of lubricant, this can be anything from silicone spray to soapy water. Having some decent sockets and stuff to actually remove the wheel from the bike is also good, although you should have some functional (if probably lovely) tools for that in the tool roll that came with the bike. On the same topic, has anyone tried the ratchet-strap lever-less method? ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 00:11
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The easiest way to break a stubborn bead is to deflate and ride around until the tire comes off the bead. If it doesn't come off readily, at least it'll be warm enough to pry off.ReelBigLizard posted:On the same topic, has anyone tried the ratchet-strap lever-less method?  I'll need to try that next time I do a regular tube less or tubed tire (got Tubliss on my WR so can't use that method).
MotoMind fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 01:30
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I wonder if you could do the same thing to get the tire off without irons, provided you could snake the straps under the beads? This guy has a good strategy: quote:I actually prefer unscrewing the valve stem and using the torch to fill the tire with oxy/acetylene, then I jam a lit non-filter cig in the stem and walk away. Since the tires explode outward the rim is spared.
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Apr 11, 2012 01:55
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jesus christ  Say poo poo like that and some idiot will actually try it.
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Apr 11, 2012 02:12
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Too late, it's fairly common on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFfXhTQBwWI Sometimes referred to as a redneck tire change.
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Apr 11, 2012 03:40
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It almost sounds like Sagebrush was suggesting removing the tire, explosively.
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Apr 11, 2012 04:03
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Too late, it's fairly common on youtube. As a redneck, I can confirm that this does work... really well actually.
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Apr 11, 2012 04:04
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MotoMind posted:It almost sounds like Sagebrush was suggesting removing the tire, explosively. Yeah, they were talking about "quick and easy" ways of getting the tire off in the first place. The first suggestion was a hacksaw, which I'd imagine would work really well if the tires were shot anyway. I think that literally blowing the tyre up was a joke, though. I think.
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Apr 11, 2012 04:20
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So when they build those Goldwing and what have you trikes, what do they do for differentials? Does anybody know?
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Apr 11, 2012 04:38
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Too late, it's fairly common on youtube.
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Apr 11, 2012 05:10
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Mr. Wiggles posted:So when they build those Goldwing and what have you trikes, what do they do for differentials? Does anybody know? Depending on how much of a hack-job it is, it is common to see "nothing" or "only drive one wheel".
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Apr 11, 2012 05:34
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Too late, it's fairly common on youtube. I did this recently. The drunk guy had to fill it because the rest of us were being feebs about it but he got the job done.
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Apr 11, 2012 05:45
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Okay guys, I have a problem: yesterday I started my bike (1996 VFR750) after work to ride home and it took a couple cycles to go, usually as soon as I turn the key it starts right up. I rode home and parked it. Today I started it up, same thing, it gave 2 rrRRrrRR then started. Then tonight after work It wouldn't start, it wouldn't even turn over, the lights were dim. I called AAA and the tow truck driver jumped it for me, he pulled away as I was getting my gear on but of course I forgot to pull my kickstand up and when I dropped it into gear the safety shut the engine off. I tried to start it again, but it had no juice. I called the driver back and he jumped it again, as I let the clutch out (with normal throttle pressure, like I always do) it stalled. He jumped it and told me to cruise around the parking lot, I putted around and we were shooting the poo poo for about 1 minute when it died just idling there. So he went back and grabbed a flat bed and towed it to my house for me. It just started raining and will be going all day tomorrow. So here I am, the tow truck driver figures it's probably the alternator (which sounds reasonable to me) but I'm no mechanic. I can change fluids and that's about it. I live in Torrance, CA. Anyone know a good place I can take it? I could probably change the alternator on my own, I did it in my 280z a couple years ago, but I can't diagnose and if it doesn't work then I'm screwed and I'll blow an entire day doing this. I have to be at work thursday morning. Should I call around and see if someone has the part and try swapping it on my own, or call around to find a shop and use another AAA call to tow it to them? No I do not know anyone with a truck I can use.
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Apr 11, 2012 09:17
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I'd say it's more likely to be the Regulator/Rectifier, apparently it's pretty common on pre-2000 VFR's You can test the charging circuit with a multimeter, if you can start the bike get it running and measure the battery voltage while running, if it's below 13V then your Regulator or Alternator is stuffed. If it is the regulator, you can replace it yourself relatively quickly and easily, it should be a simple task of unplugging the old one and plugging in a new one. theperminator fucked around with this message at 09:59 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 09:52
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Don't have a multimeter, nor do I know how to use one. I don't know what a regulator/rectifier is either. 
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Apr 11, 2012 10:07
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Nitramster posted:Don't have a multimeter, nor do I know how to use one. I don't know what a regulator/rectifier is either. A reg/reg is a little doohickey that turns the stream of crappy fluctuating power coming out of the alternator into a nice clean steady stream of D/C electricity for the bike's electronics to use. Honda's reg/recs are notoriously shite and failure-prone. They're fairly easy to spot, they've got a big heat-sink stuck on them due to the amount of excess power they need to dissipate. Usually look something like this: 
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Apr 11, 2012 10:52
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I noticed last night that my KLR 650 seemed more prone to wandering, and the front end felt much less steady than it usually does. It could be just me being a bikocondriac, but it felt like it was turning in more easily to the right than to the left. When I noticed this, I pulled off and checked the tires, started tugging on the forks to see if I noticed any play, nothing. I got back on the road, and the bike seemed to stabilize going over 30 mph, but it still felt a little off. I drove the car today because I had to take someone to the airport. Anything I should check when I get home?
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Apr 11, 2012 12:25
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Your front brake might be binding. Go for a ride and check brake discs for heat. If one is hotter, you've found the culprit. edit: scratch that since a klr only has one on the left.
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Apr 11, 2012 13:27
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KARMA! posted:Your front brake might be binding. Go for a ride and check brake discs for heat. If one is hotter, you've found the culprit. He can still do this. Go ride around your neighborhood a couple times and only use your rear brake. When you park, if your front disc is warm, then the brake may indeed be binding.
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Apr 11, 2012 13:34
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AncientTV posted:He can still do this. The brakes on that bike are hilariously awful -- it's going to take a lot of self control to stay off the front. There's an elementary school near where I live, though, so I can probably do some laps around their parking lot this evening.
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Apr 11, 2012 13:53
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This is a really basic question that I never considered. If your bike breaks down someplace, do you call a tow truck to take it home for you?
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Apr 11, 2012 14:06
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Armyman25 posted:This is a really basic question that I never considered. If your bike breaks down someplace, do you call a tow truck to take it home for you? If you've got a friend with a pickup truck, that's cheaper than a tow. What I usually do is, if my bike breaks down somewhere in a non-terrible neighborhood, I'll call a friend to get a ride home, rent a trailer from the Home Depot (or a pickup truck if you don't have a vehicle that can tow a trailer, but it's much easier to load the bike onto a trailer), and tow my bike home or to the shop. Costs about $25. In Atlanta there are also Motorcycle Towing services, but they cost a bit more -- about $45 to move my bike 5 miles once.
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Apr 11, 2012 14:29
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Find a parking lot and go riding around in circles. It's more than likely that there's nothing wrong with the bike.
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Apr 11, 2012 16:09
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Nitramster posted:Don't have a multimeter, nor do I know how to use one. I don't know what a regulator/rectifier is either. Grab a cheap multimeter from amazon, and we can help you use it. Charge up your battery in the meanwhile with a battery tender. The R/R went out in my 2000 SV650, too. The R/R replacement task was daunting as I was clueless. And I didn't want to bring it into a mechanic. So I had my dad (engineer) mail me a few books on electronics fiddling. Learned how to solder and crimp wires (easy, with practice). Then I followed a guide on svrider.com (there hopefully should be one for vfr's considering how widespread the problem apparently is). I managed to get one thing wrong: switched red and black cables leading from the new R/R to the battery and fuse. So the fuse kept on blowing. Finally I had a friend come and check it out and he pointed out the error. That was a very happy day. Now I have a new 2001 SV650 with the stock R/R. I'm prepared this time around! the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 16:23
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Nitramster posted:Don't have a multimeter, nor do I know how to use one. I don't know what a regulator/rectifier is either. Dive in headfirst man, the hivemind is here to help and this is stuff that will make your motorcycling experience far better. You don't need to be a master mechanic to work on most bikes, they are fairly simple machines. Having some knowledge about how the bikes work and how to fix/maintain it is a very good thing. Armyman25 posted:This is a really basic question that I never considered. If your bike breaks down someplace, do you call a tow truck to take it home for you?
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Apr 11, 2012 16:33
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the walkin dude posted:Grab a cheap multimeter from amazon, and we can help you use it. Charge up your battery in the meanwhile with a battery tender. there should be some sort of forums bot that posts this pdf whenever someone says "dead battery" or "rectifier" http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf edit: also if your R/R is dead don't bother buying an oem replacement, these mosfet ones are way better http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm Walking Dude i'd get one and fit it now rather than wait for the stock one to go echomadman fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 18:06
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I appreciate the help, and yes, I do intend on doing work on this bike. Problem is it's my only mode of transportation and I gotta work thursday - saturday. Edit: ah poo poo, looks like a shop would charge 500-600 depending on parts costs. Guess I'm doing it myself and taking the bus! Nitramster fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 18:48
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I'm also feeling weird about my bike's handling. It feels like the front wheel starts oscillating when I'm leaned over. The tires are about a month old (80/20 so the tread is deep) Normal wearing in? Ideas?
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Apr 11, 2012 23:41
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