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  • Locked thread
karms
Jan 22, 2006

by Nyc_Tattoo
Yam Slacker

-Inu- posted:

Frame sliders are evil. Number one easiest way to destroy your bike in a crash. They love to catch the pavement and send your bike cartwheeling, at which point it's usually yardsale time. If you look at almost any AMA bike, you'll notice that it doesn't have traditional sliders on it. They are almost always cut short enough so that they're behind the fairing for support, or cut so they are flush with the bodywork. No tumbling that way.

You care about lowering the cost at high speed drops, he at low speed. :)

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Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

KARMA! posted:

You care about lowering the cost at high speed drops, he at low speed. :)

I know my SV is slow ok! :argh:

:v:

schreibs
Oct 11, 2009

Z3n posted:

I know my SV is slow ok! :argh:

:v:

My SV is slow? This is news to me!

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/2950362389.html
$15k for a built up gsxr7FIDDY

All the analytic equipment is really cool, not that I'm anywhere near the level requiring that equipment, it'd be fun to play around with.

Edit: for posterity


quote:

FIRST AND FOREMOST... This is a Racing/trackday machine and cannot be made street legal. This bike was purchased in Oregon in 2008 with a California salvage title so it may be hard to get a loan for this one. Serious inquiries ONLY.

Specs: Carrozzeria Tri-R forged Aluminum Wheels with Ceramic Bearings from WorldWide Bearing, Titanium hardware, and captive rear spacers. 2009 GSXR 1000 rear brake caliper (smaller) with custom sensor mount utilises a custom CNC machined rear rotor for rear wheel speed. These Wheels use Kawasaki gearing and I will include a FULL set of vortex 520 sprockets (39-45 + gsxr 15,16,17) on a custom made wall rack. Most sprockets have never been used. Front wheel has BrakeTech Axis rotors with Ti hardware, Ferodo XRAC pads, 2009 GSXR 1000 front calipers with spacers, Ti bolts, and custom made brake pad bins. Custom made set of front (2-1) and rear Spiegler brakelines with aluminum fittings and third line for brake pressure sensor. Brembo RCS mastercylinder with remote adjuster. Front forks have Ti pinchbolts and axle bolt as well as GP Suspension 25mm cartridges installed with the ability to swap out fork springs without removing the forks. 1.0 and 1.05 springs currently installed but I will also be including 1.0, 1.05, and 1.1 fork springs as well as the tools necessary. Attack Tripples are black anodised with Ti hardware and 0,+/-1,+/-2,+/-3mm inserts mounted with tapered (race) steering head bearings. Sprint Steering damper is attached with custom fork tube clamp, 15clicks of adjustment holds up better than other linear dampers and doesn't need to be serviced every other weekend. New seal kit for this damper is also included. Rear shock is a Penske Tripple with a TITANIUM 650lb spring installed, top-out spring cap and custom valved Linear piston. I also have a linear/digressive piston and shim stack that would be worth some time on smoother racetracks (same stuff Cory West was using to get on the podium at nationals this season). Extended shock clevis allows for larger ride height adjustment and has a threaded bushing welded onto one side to allow for quick and easy shock removal with only one wrench required. 2,4,6, and 8mm aluminum horseshoe clevis shims (custom made) will also be included for quick rideheight changes as well as the tools necessary. I also have a complete seal kit for this shock that will be included. Swingarm has my Captive axle blocks installed and has set screws that keep BOTH axleblocks captive for quick wheel changes and a custom length caliper tool for this set-up. Rear axle nut and swingarm pivot nut are both titanium. Rear subframe is a custom built one-off unit that is lighter than stock and also stronger (you could pick the bike up with it), This is NOT your typical flimsy superbike subframe. Yoshimura EmPro ECU and Maveryk race battery that weighs 8lbs less than stock and is covered by an Armourbodies superbike tail. Matching SS tail and seat will also be included. Tank has anti-slosh foam installed. Front fairing stey is also a one-off unit built custom for the MXL dash and GPS unit. It has quick release fasteners for the Armourbodies upper.

Data aquistion system is controlled by an AIM MXL Pista Dash-This unit will log: Throttle position secondary throttle position water temperature RPM Battery voltage Air/Fuel ratio using AIM LM-one Brake pressure oil pressure rear wheel speed Front suspension travel Rear shock travel Infrared laptime reciever (and beakon) The GPS unit mounted below the dash also allows you to view: GPS track mapping GPS laptimes Acceleration lateral g's I have installed a CAN bus in the tail section so that you also plug in an AIM "SmartyCam" and record video with all of your data available. This system will tell you more about your riding, suspension, drive, and engine than you will EVER want to know... You can even make it greet you when you turn the bike on (no... I'm not kidding!) The AIM harness was custom made (by me) and plugs directly into the Yoshimura kit harness. There is not ONE SINGLE electrical splice on this motorcycle and every sensor has a nearby binder connector. In the event that a sensor goes bad you will not need to take the bike apart to replace it.

The superbike engine that is currently installed has 13.2/1 compression, WebCamshafts with APE cam sprockets, fully ported head with custom made (port matched) exhaust spigots, JE bigbore pistons, Carillo rods, stock weight crank with counterbalancer removed and an STM clutch. I have a TON of stuff to make this clutch easy to work with including custom tools, lighter reaction spring, and custom ground OEM steels for shimming the clutchpack thickness. This engine was built last year and has one race weekend on it. It is custom mapped for spiked pump fuel and SD16 with a 2 way map switch on the left clip-on. It also has a circuit1 stator cover and Moto-R clutch axcess side cover (very trick and you can't buy them anymore). CNC machined shift star with hardened shift pin. All 8 injectors flow tested and matched at the beginning of this season. K&N filters x2 (keep one clean and ready to go in) MotionPro adjustable throw throttle, with spare throttle cable and 3 interchangeable spools for different throttle feel. HM Quickshifter can be used for GP or standard shift (currently GP) with controls mounted in the rear subframe. and a set of Vortex front and rear stands...

If you are interested in buying a motorcycle of this caliber, and SERIOUS about purchasing it I suggest you come take a look at it in person. I will be happy to show it and answer any questions you may have... This is not some slapped together race bike with some $$$ parts. Everything on this bike has been modified to make it a race machine and easy to work. The attention to detail is second to NONE. I can honestly say that you would have a hard time finding someone to build you a bike like this. The work that I have done here has been the labour of love.

I also have a spare superbike engine with +/- 250 laps on it that is also available. 14.2/1 compression, WebCamshafts with APE cam sprockets, fully ported head (done by Yoshimura's Steve Meyer) with custom made (port matched) exhaust spigots, JE bigbore pistons, Carillo rods, Lightened crank with counterbalancer removed, lightened transmission (like kit trans with stock ratio) and the entire transmission has been IFS treated at Yoshimura in Cali. It also has Ceramic transmission bearings, shiftstar/hardened pin, race-kit sparkplugs, HPS stator cover and Yosh clutch guard. This engine will also come with a custom made engine stand that I used for building my engines and also transporting them.

Cost breakdown:

Chassis and basics-2008 GSXR 750 frame and swing-arm Armourbodies SS bodywork with professional paintwork and double bubble windscreen (650$) Superbike tail section (SS tail with matching paint and seat are also included) ($200) Vortex Clip-ons, rear-sets (with turned pegs), clutch lever (spare lever included), keyless gas cap, and frame sliders ($600) Custom made aluminum tube sub-frame ( $550 +) Custom made fairing stay ($150+) Lightweight race battery with quick release amp connectors (8 or 12 cell) ($150) MotionPro Revolver throttle with 4 interchangeable cams and SpiderGrips ($150) Custom made captive axle blocks with Titanium adjuster bolts and rear caliper tool ($150) Titanium axle and swing-arm pivot nuts ($100) K&N Race air filters x2 (keep one clean and dry ready to install) ($100) Hindle Full exhaust system with custom modifed can (added 12" of length) and ceramic coated headers. Spare can, FMF PremierCore packing and rivits are also included ($900+) Anti-slosh tank foam and Stomp-Grip ($100) Carrozzeria Tri-R forged aluminum wheels, Black anodised with a 6" rear wheel ($1800) Titanium hardware and Ceramic bearings ($550) Regina 520 GPZ chain ($150) Vortex hardcoat 520 gearing for Carrozzeria wheels (Kawi bolt pattern) rear 39 thru 45 and front 15-17 on custom gearing rack ($350)

Brake System-Custom made 2 into 1 Speigler Lines with aluminum hardware and brake pressure line for data ($250) 2009 GSXR 1000 Calipers (front and rear) with custom made spacers, Titainum bolts, and Ferodo XRAC pads ($300+) Braketech Axis front rotors ($550) with Titanium hardware ($50) Custom machined rear rotor for rear wheel speed sensor data ($100) with Titanium hardware ($50) Brembo RCS master Cylinder ($300) with Light-tech remote adjuster ($150)

Suspension-Penske triple adjustable rear shock ($800) with top-out spring cap ($100) 650lb Titanium spring ($400) custom shock clevis ($50) and custom made horseshoe spacers ($$$). . . also custom made potentiometer brackets both front and rear ($$$). GP Suspension 25mm cartridges ($1000) with a variety of fork springs from 9.5 to 1.1 ($200) and all of the tools necessary to swap out fork springs while on the motorcycle ($200) Attack Performance adjustable triple clamp, black hard anodized with Titanium hardware ($900) three additional offset inserts are also included ($225) to allow -3mm to +3mm in 1mm increments as well as tapered steering head bearings ($40) Sprint linear steering damper ($250) with 15 clicks of adjustment (holds up WAY better than Ohlins) and a new seal kit that I never had to use ($30) as well as a custom machined for tube clamp ($$$)

Electrical-Yoshimura EmPro kit ECU ($2000) Yoshimura race kit harness ($500) with 2-way map switch, quickshifter, and pitlane speed limiter. HM quickshifter with custom shift rod, can be used for GP or standard shift pattern ($450). Data Acquisition-AIM MXL Pista Dash ($2200) Custom made wiring harness ($500) Data Hub ($60) GPS module ($400) LCU Lambda controller ($400) Brake pressure sensor ($150) Oil Pressure sensor($150)

Engine-STM evolution slipper clutch ($1000) with spare basket and pressure plates, additional lighter 30kg reaction spring, custom tools and custom ground OEM steels for shimming clutch pack thickness ($300) JE Pistons Bigbore Pistons and rings ($650) bored and re-plated cylinders ($650) Carillo pro H-beam rods ($1200) Web Camshafts ($750) Fully ported cylinder head ($1300) Custom machined and port matched exhaust spigots ($200) Custom machined head gasket ($150) APE adjustable cam sprockets ($150) Custom machined shift star and hardened shift pin ($100) KWS manual cam chain tensioner, fine thread ($50) Circuit1 stator cover with Vortex idler gear cover ($300) Moto-R clutch access cover ($500)

SO. . . If you already have a GSXR 750 and you would like to build a superbike like this one, It will only cost you $26,205 in hard parts. . . Then you get to pay someone to build it for you.

Second motor (available for an additional $2500)-JE Pistons Bigbore Pistons and rings (with ceramic and dry-film moly coatings) ($800) and bored and re-plated cylinders ($650) Carillo pro H-beam rods ($1200) Web Camshafts ($750) with ISF treatment ($150) Fully ported cylinder head ($1300) Custom machined and port matched exhaust spigots ($200) Lightened Crankshaft ($300) Custom machined head gasket ($150) APE adjustable cam sprockets ($150) Custom machined shift star and hardened shift pin ($100) Custom Lightened transmission gears ($300) IFS treatment on entire transmission ( gears, forks, drum, shafts, etc.) ($400) Ceramic transmission bearings ($300) Race Kit sparkplugs ($150) Custom made engine stand and intake plugs for travel as well as a second set of plug caps and hoses make it possible to swap engines in a couple hours or less. ($$$)

. . .If you already have a 750 engine. . . and you wanted to build an engine like this one. . . It would only cost you $6,900 in hard parts before you pay someone to build it for you.

.....If you buy the bike and both engines I will throw in 5+ gallons of Motorex oil and a pile of K&N oil filters($300+) as well as +/- 20 gallons of R-tech SD16 Racing fuel ($400) and a spare set of OEM wheels with a custom machined 6" rear wheel ($650)

GI Joe jobs fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Apr 11, 2012

Veritas
Aug 20, 2003
dear lord!

Resource
Aug 6, 2006
Yay!

Gullous posted:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/2950362389.html
$15k for a built up gsxr7FIDDY

All the analytic equipment is really cool, not that I'm anywhere near the level requiring that equipment, it'd be fun to play around with.

I read that whole listing and probably understood about half of it :-p I wonder if I'll ever get to the point where I could take advantage of a bike like that.

invision
Mar 2, 2009

I DIDN'T GET ENOUGH RAPE LAST TIME, MAY I HAVE SOME MORE?
I kind of want to e-detective and figure out who that dude is, because that bike is awesome.

FlerpNerpin
Apr 17, 2006


invision posted:

I kind of want to e-detective and figure out who that dude is, because that bike is awesome.

In another forum he's selling the complete package, including truck, trailer, and a Dyno....

Dude had a killer setup.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
All of that and it doesn't even have a TTX on it, interesting.

Weird to have a bike like that built for club racing/track days...Not a bad price though. Having a DSB built 600 would run you about $20k in parts, so figure this guy is $5k cheaper and you don't have to buy a separate bike.

Though I'd like to point out that it has cut down frame sliders. Just sayin' :v:

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
I keep seeing ex-AMA, Vesrah Suzuki, etc bikes for like 12-15k.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Those are usually older B or C bikes that haven't had the engine refreshed, and they yank the acquisition stuff beforehand too.

Veritas
Aug 20, 2003

BlackMK4 posted:

I keep seeing ex-AMA, Vesrah Suzuki, etc bikes for like 12-15k.

my race bike was one of the AMA emgo suzuki bikes. one of the backup bikes if i recall. :)

2ndclasscitizen
Jan 2, 2009

by Y Kant Ozma Post
What class could you evenrun a late-model 750 in with that much work done to it in?

2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Apr 12, 2012

Zool
Mar 21, 2005

The motard rap
for all my riders
at the track
Dirt hardpacked
corner workers better
step back

2ndclasscitizen posted:

What class could you evenrun a late-model 750 in with that much work done to it in?

750 Super bike

Zool
Mar 21, 2005

The motard rap
for all my riders
at the track
Dirt hardpacked
corner workers better
step back
I measured the sag on the RS125 last night... and today I started a weight loss program. They don't make stiff enough springs for my fat rear end.

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷
Spiffness and I ran our 2nd track day at The Ridge Motorsports Park. We had a blast with the weather and riding. We both demo'd a BMW S1000RR too, loving nuts. Pics:






I ran tank grip pads this time, and I felt it helped my riding improve. You can easily hold your thigh onto the tank, letting you hang off and brake without sliding around. Worth the $50; they should be stock on every sportbike, in my opinion.

This time out I was focusing on a few aspects of my riding:
Good/more reference points
Smoother and harder braking, including trail braking
Focusing on corner speed as a function of braking
Alternate lines for passing/riding traffic
BP, not crossing up
Clutchless upshifts :v:

My previous weekend was a good intro, but I regretted the "winging it" approach. The elevation at Ridge requires solid reference points (and bravery). It's hard to pin it over a blind crest unless you know exactly where you'll end up.

Also I wasn't braking so great. I was just pulling a lever, not really thinking about "when I let off, thats the speed I'll enter the turn at", nor was I too smooth on the release.

I felt like I improved greatly on these fronts. I kept on the gas through the blind stuff, trail braked smoothly, releasing at a predetermined entrance speed.

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS3k5GL_yuA


This is from the last session of the day, I feel it was my strongest. I was the first one out, and ended up catching the pack 7 minutes in. I still have a lot to learn, but I'm happy with the improvements. Specifically, turn 6, the long lefthander, I need to figure out a better line. It feels long enough to double apex. Any thoughts on really long sweepers?

7 Minutes in I catch the pack
I was working on this line at 8:45. Exit turn 2 far left to exit 3 on the power and ready to smoothly connect turns 4 and 5 onto a straight. I would pass someone here like every lap.
Here are the two blind approaches I talked about. I was proud of the pass on the red bike

invision
Mar 2, 2009

I DIDN'T GET ENOUGH RAPE LAST TIME, MAY I HAVE SOME MORE?

Gullous posted:

Spiffness and I ran our 2nd track day at The Ridge Motorsports Park. We had a blast with the weather and riding. We both demo'd a BMW S1000RR too, loving nuts. Pics:






I ran tank grip pads this time, and I felt it helped my riding improve. You can easily hold your thigh onto the tank, letting you hang off and brake without sliding around. Worth the $50; they should be stock on every sportbike, in my opinion.

This time out I was focusing on a few aspects of my riding:
Good/more reference points
Smoother and harder braking, including trail braking
Focusing on corner speed as a function of braking
Alternate lines for passing/riding traffic
BP, not crossing up
Clutchless upshifts :v:

My previous weekend was a good intro, but I regretted the "winging it" approach. The elevation at Ridge requires solid reference points (and bravery). It's hard to pin it over a blind crest unless you know exactly where you'll end up.

Also I wasn't braking so great. I was just pulling a lever, not really thinking about "when I let off, thats the speed I'll enter the turn at", nor was I too smooth on the release.

I felt like I improved greatly on these fronts. I kept on the gas through the blind stuff, trail braked smoothly, releasing at a predetermined entrance speed.

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS3k5GL_yuA


This is from the last session of the day, I feel it was my strongest. I was the first one out, and ended up catching the pack 7 minutes in. I still have a lot to learn, but I'm happy with the improvements. Specifically, turn 6, the long lefthander, I need to figure out a better line. It feels long enough to double apex. Any thoughts on really long sweepers?

7 Minutes in I catch the pack
I was working on this line at 8:45. Exit turn 2 far left to exit 3 on the power and ready to smoothly connect turns 4 and 5 onto a straight. I would pass someone here like every lap.
Here are the two blind approaches I talked about. I was proud of the pass on the red bike

That looks like an extremely fun track.

Zool
Mar 21, 2005

The motard rap
for all my riders
at the track
Dirt hardpacked
corner workers better
step back

Gullous posted:

Specifically, turn 6, the long lefthander, I need to figure out a better line. It feels long enough to double apex.

This guy knows what he's doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fORI5y_PuM&t=4m54s

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷

Zool posted:

This guy knows what he's doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fORI5y_PuM&t=4m54s

Holy poo poo, that's fast.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Track day got rained out, we're rescheduling for sometime this fall. I wanted to ride as did a few other motard guys but the general consensus was pack up and reschedule, very nice of the track to let us do this.

So burned a vacation day, some gas and "wasted" money on hotel/food but better than getting hurt loving around on a wet track I guess.

Resource
Aug 6, 2006
Yay!

Gullous posted:

Spiffness and I ran our 2nd track day at The Ridge Motorsports Park. We had a blast with the weather and riding. We both demo'd a BMW S1000RR too, loving nuts.

Thanks for posting the video, that track looks like a lot of fun.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Gullous posted:

Spiffness and I ran our 2nd track day at The Ridge Motorsports Park. We had a blast with the weather and riding. We both demo'd a BMW S1000RR too, loving nuts. Pics:

Here's a few things to give a shot...try passing on the exit but on the inside rather than the outside. I've been pushed wide one too many times by people "using the full track" when they need it...you've got the R6 powa, so carry a bit more speed, take a super late apex, and drive out under them on the exit.

Also it looks like you're fixating on people a bit when you run into them midcorner (could be totally off here, just a feeling) and if you make an effort to look past them, you might find it easier to pass folks midcorner.

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷

Z3n posted:

Here's a few things to give a shot...try passing on the exit but on the inside rather than the outside. I've been pushed wide one too many times by people "using the full track" when they need it...you've got the R6 powa, so carry a bit more speed, take a super late apex, and drive out under them on the exit.

Also it looks like you're fixating on people a bit when you run into them midcorner (could be totally off here, just a feeling) and if you make an effort to look past them, you might find it easier to pass folks midcorner.

Thanks for the input! Generally I felt a lot better making the inside exit pass, but I'd take what I could (safely) get. To illustrate your point, I nearly get bumped off attempting an outside pass at 7:20. Try more passes like This?

Regarding fixation, I was trying to practice Keith Code's "absorb it all" method of vision, but sometimes a squirrelly rider is steals your focus. Reflecting on my first day, I'd just watch the lead rider, rolling onto the gas with them. Still, I'll try to keep the line in focus. Another action item :)


What are people's thoughts on regearing? Apparently the stock R6 is geared for ~190 in the top of 6th; I'm only hitting 130 (correcting for speedo error). I'm aware corner speed/shift points play a big role, but how unwise would it be to gear for redline at 145mph or so? I felt out-powered at times; this track is fast, and the liter bike heros can be frustrating...

GI Joe jobs fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Apr 16, 2012

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷
Double post:
http://trackmaster.trackaroo.com/welcome

I want to run that next time. Split times + GoPro sounds really helpful for review. It'll also read your times to you via the headset!

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Gullous posted:

Thanks for the input! Generally I felt a lot better making the inside exit pass, but I'd take what I could (safely) get. To illustrate your point, I nearly get bumped off attempting an outside pass at 7:20. Try more passes like This?

Yup, exactly. That situation at 7:20 is hard because you have a control rider who you know is capable of carrying a lot of speed and unlikely to expect being passed, and a slower rider who's probably gonna run way wide because that's how the B group rolls. Another warning sign they're gonna run wide is they get WAY the gently caress out to the outside at the start, which is almost always a sure sign they're gonna run wide on exit because they're trying to follow the "traditional racing line", despite it often not being the fastest way around the track.

I would have stayed wide, entered slower, and pulled an extremely late apex (terrible for overall speed but excellent for passing in this situation) to get around both of them in one go, hopefully. At 7:30, I would have been hard on the throttle, ready to run up behind the person and pass them on the inside of the exit of the following corner. They don't even make it to the apex so if you get comfortable hanging your knee over the dirt (which you should be), you can easily blow by them on exit while they're pointlessly running wide with a minimum of drama.

The inside on the exit pass is by FAR the safest pass on the track, because it puts the point where your line crosses their line behind them, when they've already picked their direction, not in front of them, where they can push you off track.

quote:

Regarding fixation, I was trying to practice Keith Code's "absorb it all" method of vision, but sometimes a squirrelly rider is steals your focus. Reflecting on my first day, I'd just watch the lead rider, rolling onto the gas with them. Still, I'll try to keep the line in focus. Another action item :)

Visually fixating is bad for a few reasons...one, you'll be late on the gas because you're following their cues rather than yours, which is bad because if you've caught them, they're going slower than you. Secondly, you're going to naturally try and follow their line, as you're looking at them, not where you should be on the track.

I do feel you on it being difficult though. I still can feel the twinges of wanting to socially brake with other folks on the track when I'm passing them and they brake early. I know where my markers are, I've entered any given corner at the tracks I ride regularly hundreds of times, but I still want to brake even when they brake 300 feet early of my braking marker. I've retrained myself to the point where it's a mental twitch, not an actual roll off or brake, but it's hard to break that habit. Looking at them rather than down the track also increases the sensation of speed, so that helps suck you in to braking early as well.

So how I go about fixing that is to focus 100% on my markers. I adjust my markers based on the riders around me, but I never actually really focus on the riders themselves. The last time I did that I crashed when I was following Peter Lenz (RIP :( ) on my first race weekend because he turned in at the appropriate place for his pace and I followed him in while being 30-40 feet behind him, meaning I turned in far too early, went wide, and crashed. After that I made a really conscious effort to stop looking at the other riders and just track them in my peripheral, and all of the sudden the "slinky effect" where I'd come flying up on someone and then be stuck behind them for awhile and then blow past them and get stuck on the next rider went away entirely, and with it, a lot of the frustration of riding a lower HP bike against 600s and 1ks.


quote:

What are people's thoughts on regearing? Apparently the stock R6 is geared for ~190 in the top of 6th; I'm only hitting 130 (correcting for speedo error). I'm aware corner speed/shift points play a big role, but how unwise would it be to gear for redline at 145mph or so? I felt out-powered at times; this track is fast, and the liter bike heros can be frustrating...

Well, there's 2 parts to this. First of all...the problem isn't really with the power.

This is coming on to the front straight at Willow Springs (The Fastest Track in the West :xd:)

Both of those guys are on literbikes, I was on my GSX-R600. I blow the corner entirely because I wasn't expecting to catch them that fast, end up going around the outside rather than the inside exit pass I prefer, but still manage to hold with the guy that gets passed by both of us on the straight, because I didn't get in line behind both of them, kept my corner speed up, looked past them, and got on the throttle hard and early. Most literbike guys in the B group stay off the throttle until they're almost entirely upright, so if you can get on the gas early and keep your cornerspeed up, it'll take a good chunk of the straight for them to overcome that speed differential with the power of their bike, and you'll still be pinned while they're braking and you'll blow by them on the brakes without an issue, as long as you know your reference points, because they're gonna brake early.

I catch the other guy 4-5 turns later, when I maintain speed through a fast kink and he backs off until he's upright again, and the 70 or so HP he has on me isn't enough to make up the 20mph more I carried through the last corner. You'll know you're getting good drive when it takes roughly the first 1/3rd of the straight for you to stop gaining on them, the middle 1/3rd is them starting to make progress, and then they brake early in the last 1/3rd and you blow by them still on the gas.

Secondly, gearing should really be determined based off of shift points and top speed but that's for once you stop dropping 3-5 seconds a day, because you're scrubbing too much time in a day to be consistent enough to need to adjust gearing based off of individual corners. Basically, you'll gear so that you're somewhere near redline at the end of the straight with an eye towards not being at the limiter or below the power when leaving corners. Start with -1/+2 though, fine tune from there when you start to feel like you're stuck between gears. Shouldn't be a big deal on that R6 though, it's a lot less peaky than the later models.

Mo'fuckin' :words:

Z3n fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Apr 17, 2012

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷

Z3n posted:

Yup, exactly. That situation at 7:20 is hard because you have a control rider who you know is capable of carrying a lot of speed and unlikely to expect being passed, and a slower rider who's probably gonna run way wide because that's how the B group rolls. Another warning sign they're gonna run wide is they get WAY the gently caress out to the outside at the start, which is almost always a sure sign they're gonna run wide on exit because they're trying to follow the "traditional racing line", despite it often not being the fastest way around the track.

I would have stayed wide, entered slower, and pulled an extremely late apex (terrible for overall speed but excellent for passing in this situation) to get around both of them in one go, hopefully. At 7:30, I would have been hard on the throttle, ready to run up behind the person and pass them on the inside of the exit of the following corner. They don't even make it to the apex so if you get comfortable hanging your knee over the dirt (which you should be), you can easily blow by them on exit while they're pointlessly running wide with a minimum of drama.

Point taken; I'll work on timing my passes for a later apex. I was setting up the late apex drive/inside exit pass as you suggested, but I was counting on the marshal to follow the lead rider's line, but he went for the exit outside pass, blocking me.

I suppose that's the fun of it, managing the chess game of "whos doing what". Do you think I could have gotten enough drive to pass them both, cutting in late?

I'm comfortable hanging over the curb, but the next corner was muddy at the apex :wtc:, so I was staying a foot wide of the ideal apex.

Late apex pass

Thats what I was going for at the 7:20 lap; pass the first bike on the brakes, beat the 2nd guy to the next inside line. I guess that first pass is a aggressive, but I felt like I had the room judging from his entrance speed. (actually I was trying to beat the white bike to inside of the downhill, but he shut the door).

quote:

Visually fixating is bad for a few reasons...one, you'll be late on the gas because you're following their cues rather than yours, which is bad because if you've caught them, they're going slower than you. Secondly, you're going to naturally try and follow their line, as you're looking at them, not where you should be on the track.

I do feel you on it being difficult though. I still can feel the twinges of wanting to socially brake with other folks on the track when I'm passing them and they brake early. I know where my markers are, I've entered any given corner at the tracks I ride regularly hundreds of times, but I still want to brake even when they brake 300 feet early of my braking marker. I've retrained myself to the point where it's a mental twitch, not an actual roll off or brake, but it's hard to break that habit. Looking at them rather than down the track also increases the sensation of speed, so that helps suck you in to braking early as well.

So how I go about fixing that is to focus 100% on my markers. I adjust my markers based on the riders around me, but I never actually really focus on the riders themselves. The last time I did that I crashed when I was following Peter Lenz (RIP ) on my first race weekend because he turned in at the appropriate place for his pace and I followed him in while being 30-40 feet behind him, meaning I turned in far too early, went wide, and crashed. After that I made a really conscious effort to stop looking at the other riders and just track them in my peripheral, and all of the sudden the "slinky effect" where I'd come flying up on someone and then be stuck behind them for awhile and then blow past them and get stuck on the next rider went away entirely, and with it, a lot of the frustration of riding a lower HP bike against 600s and 1ks.

Watching my first video (day 1) I was totally following the other rider. At best I'd setup the pass (late apex :)), but enter with their corner speed and accelerate with them. Terrible.

That's a subtle but interesting distinction you make. So, adjust my reference points to the conditions, but never lose focus of them. That sounds easier than it is, but that's the fun too :) I'll add it to the list. Sounds like great advice for spiffness and his SV, too :rice:

quote:

Well, there's 2 parts to this. First of all...the problem isn't really with the power.

This is coming on to the front straight at Willow Springs (The Fastest Track in the West )

Both of those guys are on literbikes, I was on my GSX-R600. I blow the corner entirely because I wasn't expecting to catch them that fast, end up going around the outside rather than the inside exit pass I prefer, but still manage to hold with the guy that gets passed by both of us on the straight, because I didn't get in line behind both of them, kept my corner speed up, looked past them, and got on the throttle hard and early. Most literbike guys in the B group stay off the throttle until they're almost entirely upright, so if you can get on the gas early and keep your cornerspeed up, it'll take a good chunk of the straight for them to overcome that speed differential with the power of their bike, and you'll still be pinned while they're braking and you'll blow by them on the brakes without an issue, as long as you know your reference points, because they're gonna brake early.

I catch the other guy 4-5 turns later, when I maintain speed through a fast kink and he backs off until he's upright again, and the 70 or so HP he has on me isn't enough to make up the 20mph more I carried through the last corner. You'll know you're getting good drive when it takes roughly the first 1/3rd of the straight for you to stop gaining on them, the middle 1/3rd is them starting to make progress, and then they brake early in the last 1/3rd and you blow by them still on the gas.

Secondly, gearing should really be determined based off of shift points and top speed but that's for once you stop dropping 3-5 seconds a day, because you're scrubbing too much time in a day to be consistent enough to need to adjust gearing based off of individual corners. Basically, you'll gear so that you're somewhere near redline at the end of the straight with an eye towards not being at the limiter or below the power when leaving corners. Start with -1/+2 though, fine tune from there when you start to feel like you're stuck between gears. Shouldn't be a big deal on that R6 though, it's a lot less peaky than the later models.

Impressive riding! You're totally right; virtually nobody is making full use of their rear tire for acceleration until they're upright. Something to take advantage of, eh? To be honest, I've been intimidated of power sliding into a highside. On the 690 I got too aggressive on a few exits and nearly went over the top.

Any thoughts on reading the rear tire? How do you read the rear tire's limits on acceleration while leaned over? I'm still learning the tires and the feedback the bike gives, so I guess seat time is one way...

You're right about when to gear; I'd benefit more from putting the money into track time for now. I was just applying my gran turismo 5 knowledge :v:

Talk about :words:

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Gullous posted:

Point taken; I'll work on timing my passes for a later apex. I was setting up the late apex drive/inside exit pass as you suggested, but I was counting on the marshal to follow the lead rider's line, but he went for the exit outside pass, blocking me.

I suppose that's the fun of it, managing the chess game of "whos doing what". Do you think I could have gotten enough drive to pass them both, cutting in late?

Yeah. But you'd have needed to drop way back. The other thing you should start thinking about : Setting up passes a corner ahead of where you are now. This will be more applicable as the speed differentials start to become less extreme, and you notice that you're approaching someone rather than just coming up on them suddenly.

The thing about the really late apex for exit passes is you know you're going slower because you've scrubbed all this speed off running to the outside and staying off the gas for longer, and you'll end up in the middle of the track, plus you're not going flat out because you're approaching someone and you back off as a result of that, so it's ok to sort of park it a bit, kick it over hard, and then be immediately standing it up and firing it out of the corner. Most of the time despite losing a bunch of speed you'll be early enough on the throttle that you can comfortably get past them.

quote:

I'm comfortable hanging over the curb, but the next corner was muddy at the apex :wtc:, so I was staying a foot wide of the ideal apex.

Late apex pass

Thats what I was going for at the 7:20 lap; pass the first bike on the brakes, beat the 2nd guy to the next inside line. I guess that first pass is a aggressive, but I felt like I had the room judging from his entrance speed. (actually I was trying to beat the white bike to inside of the downhill, but he shut the door).

The first pass is aggressive and I would have head checked before shutting the door on him and going for the apex. It doesn't hurt to leave a couple feet to the inside on passes like that. Also, you're kind of all over the place while trying to get around him, first on one side then the other...that's another side effect of fixating on the rider in front of you rather than riding your line which may have taken you around both of them with no drama, earlier.


quote:

Watching my first video (day 1) I was totally following the other rider. At best I'd setup the pass (late apex :)), but enter with their corner speed and accelerate with them. Terrible.

It's a really, really easy mistake to make. You see the C group train all the time because people just lock on to the rider in front of them. Leads to a lot of crashes on the street on group rides too.

quote:

That's a subtle but interesting distinction you make. So, adjust my reference points to the conditions, but never lose focus of them. That sounds easier than it is, but that's the fun too :) I'll add it to the list. Sounds like great advice for spiffness and his SV, too :rice:

Gotta have your reference points well defined before you go out or else you'll feel way out of your depth when you move off the line you're comfortable with. It can also be worthwhile to try some different lines for a session...try turning in at mid track rather than all the way to the outside...see how little track you can use, and then increase your corner speed and the amount of track you use to go faster while maintaining the same lean angle.


quote:

Impressive riding! You're totally right; virtually nobody is making full use of their rear tire for acceleration until they're upright. Something to take advantage of, eh? To be honest, I've been intimidated of power sliding into a highside. On the 690 I got too aggressive on a few exits and nearly went over the top.

Any thoughts on reading the rear tire? How do you read the rear tire's limits on acceleration while leaned over? I'm still learning the tires and the feedback the bike gives, so I guess seat time is one way...

Gotta do it if you start on an SV! It also teaches you to not be afraid of the throttle midcorner.

Now, of course, there's the throttle rule to help keep you safe...you shouldn't be adding throttle unless you're also removing lean angle. Note that this also comes into effect with camber...you can be decreasing lean angle but if the turn is going offcamber on exit and you're adding throttle you could be effectively demanding more from the tire even though it feels like you're standing the bike up. You see a lot of crashes in certain corners on certain tracks when people run wide into an offcamber section of track, try to make up for it on the throttle, lose traction and crash. Off the top of my head: T3 at Thill, T3 at Willow Springs, T2 at Infineon, T2 at Buttonwillow are all corners where I've seen that happen.

Anyways, rear tire slides aren't a huge deal as long as you're standing the bike up. If it starts to spin you just hold the throttle where it is and continue standing the bike up and it'll come back in line with a minimum of drama. It'll start to feel natural after a little while. Make sure you're obeying the throttle rule, get some more seat time, and you'll be fine.

The inverse to the throttle rule is also something that you should be keeping track of as well, though: If you're standing up the bike, are you adding more throttle? Because in most situations, you should be. Another place where people stay off the gas a lot is in the short straights and through accelerating chicanes...when the bike is coming upright you should be pinning it and then backing off when you introduce the next corner. It can also help get the front end compressed and the bike turning if you do it right, it lifts on the gas and then when you shut it off it compresses and the bike turns easier.

quote:

You're right about when to gear; I'd benefit more from putting the money into track time for now. I was just applying my gran turismo 5 knowledge :v:

Talk about :words:

:words: about tracks are my favorite :3:

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷
So I'm talking to a local racer about a ninja 250 project. $300 for a first gen that needs a neharness. The plan would be to build a race bike for the next season. Just a thought right now, but I'm interested.

Zool
Mar 21, 2005

The motard rap
for all my riders
at the track
Dirt hardpacked
corner workers better
step back

Gullous posted:

So I'm talking to a local racer about a ninja 250 project. $300 for a first gen that needs a neharness. The plan would be to build a race bike for the next season. Just a thought right now, but I'm interested.
I've seen your wiring work, I don't think you have the competence in this area to do the job right. ;)

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷
Are you referring to the hand twisted car stereo input? Ive half assed projects, but if I spent the time planning and fabbing the harness I can do a quality job.

Veritas
Aug 20, 2003
a track beater 250 for $300? go for it. dunno what the market is like for 1st gen parts but for $300 run that thing into the ground.

Zool
Mar 21, 2005

The motard rap
for all my riders
at the track
Dirt hardpacked
corner workers better
step back

Gullous posted:

Are you referring to the hand twisted car stereo input?

Yeah,
Zool: *See's extremely shoddy wiring in Gullous's car
Zool: What do you do for a living again?
Gullous: I do wiring design for (major commercial airline manufacturer).
Zool: Yeah...

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷
Technically, I don't fabricate them :v:

To restore my honor:


DIY 690 fender eliminator. Note the dual zip tie support with rubber bushings and heavy duty sleeving. Unfortunately, it did fail, but that was the when a dude's head rammed it (and the unsleeved wires chaffed to hell).



Anyways, I'll take a look at the 250. As much as I'd like to race, I may have to hold off for a season or two ($$$), but its hard to complain with a cheap ninja250 sitting around. Spare bike, pit bike, dirt bike, or whatever...

invision
Mar 2, 2009

I DIDN'T GET ENOUGH RAPE LAST TIME, MAY I HAVE SOME MORE?

Gullous posted:

Technically, I don't fabricate them :v:

To restore my honor:


DIY 690 fender eliminator. Note the dual zip tie support with rubber bushings and heavy duty sleeving. Unfortunately, it did fail, but that was the when a dude's head rammed it (and the unsleeved wires chaffed to hell).



Anyways, I'll take a look at the 250. As much as I'd like to race, I may have to hold off for a season or two ($$$), but its hard to complain with a cheap ninja250 sitting around. Spare bike, pit bike, dirt bike, or whatever...

Please make a sumo ninja250. pretty please.

GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷

invision posted:

Please make a sumo ninja250. pretty please.



Oh man...

invision
Mar 2, 2009

I DIDN'T GET ENOUGH RAPE LAST TIME, MAY I HAVE SOME MORE?

Gullous posted:



Oh man...

Holy poo poo.

Resource
Aug 6, 2006
Yay!

Gullous posted:



Oh man...

Is that real? Can I make that?

anchorite
Sep 22, 2009
Just signed up for the May 4th track day at the Ridge, I'm super excited. This will be my first track day this year and my first on a real track, the two that I did last year were cone courses set up at one of the local airports.

FlerpNerpin
Apr 17, 2006


Edit: Oh, NVM, that's the Friday. Gallous, Zool and I are doing the 5th and the 6th Motofit, and I miiiight do the Friday if I can get it off and afford it late notice. Thats like $600 in track days in 3 days though. Bit spendy.

Continuing the edit...

If its your first time at Ridge, here's what to know: They *should* have the paved parking area setup by then, but if you can arrive the night before and setup on the pavement. As you enter, you wanna go to the left and back, so you pit close to the track wall, right below THE RIDGE. It's an awesome place to pit and spectate. They'll probably ask that you not park your vehicle on the pavement, so be prepared to setup camp and then park the tow vehicle off on its own in the dirt somewhere.

There is a walmart nearby if you find yourself needing something last minute, the Fred Meyers is just a grocery.

Be mindful of the tar snakes on the track from where they widened it. They're slippery as gently caress. The track is going to be cold the first two morning sessions, even if its a nice day, so take it easy. Since you're riding with 2Fast, free hamburgers at lunch time (riding lunch, no track stoppage for lunch), and coffee and confections for breakfast.

Reg & tech open at 7, 7:40 is a ride around (hop in a truck, get shown the track), 8 is riders meeting, track goes hot at 9. 300 (advanced) at the top of the hour, 200 at the :20, 100 at :40, every hour.

Have fun, hydrate, take lots of video, and ask a instructor to show you the line first session of the day.

FlerpNerpin fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Apr 19, 2012

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GI Joe jobs
Jun 25, 2005

🎅🤜🤛👷
The hydration part is important. Even at 50-60F, I wasn't drinking enough water. Get a big water bottle and drink it every time you pit.

I'd study videos of the track before hand, too, so the blind stuff doesn't totally throw you off guard.

That reminds me, I saw this checklist on the local racer forum:
code:
Track day/Race Day

Bike!!
Ramp
EZ up
Gear Bag
Change of clothes
Leathers
Gloves
Back Protector
Chest Protector
Helmet
Extra shield
Boots
Bike Key and Extra key in Gear bag
Tire Warmers
Pit Sign
Fire Extinguisher
Medical Form
Tools
Specialty-Tire guage
Fluids Lubes
Oil pan and Fasteners
Stands
Gas can
Tape/zip ties
Cooler-water/food
iPad/computer
Ear Plugs
Chairs
Rain Gear
Jacket
Towels
Paperwork
Not all of it applies to a track day, but I'll be using it next time I Go out.

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