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Radbot posted:How old are you guys? I'm a 26 y/o male, and the lowest I've ever been quoted for an '06 V-Strom DL1000 for full coverage is more than $100/month, and I've never been in an accident, cited, or had an insurance loss. It's bullshit that I'm grouped along with other idiots my age when I'm a goddamned commercial driver instructor and have never even been in a minor crash, knock on wood. I'm 24 and I pay a little over $400/yr for comp, collision and liability on an 07 DRZ400sm
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May 1, 2012 22:31
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Radbot posted:How old are you guys? I'm a 26 y/o male, and the lowest I've ever been quoted for an '06 V-Strom DL1000 for full coverage is more than $100/month, and I've never been in an accident, cited, or had an insurance loss. It's bullshit that I'm grouped along with other idiots my age when I'm a goddamned commercial driver instructor and have never even been in a minor crash, knock on wood. Really? Through who? After you hit 25 you should get a decent break. I pay like $250 a year for my bandit through Progressive
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May 1, 2012 22:52
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Radbot posted:How old are you guys? I'm a 26 y/o male, and the lowest I've ever been quoted for an '06 V-Strom DL1000 for full coverage is more than $100/month, and I've never been in an accident, cited, or had an insurance loss. It's bullshit that I'm grouped along with other idiots my age when I'm a goddamned commercial driver instructor and have never even been in a minor crash, knock on wood. 26, 99 SV650, I pay 200 bucks a year. That's including 300/500/300 limits, full coverage everything, including UM and the like. Try different insurance companies, your DL shouldn't have coverage that high, and bike insurance is REALLY inconsitent. My 690 SMC was about the same, so was my DRZ, so was my ZZR1200, so I think you just need to find a better company.
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May 1, 2012 23:23
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I am 31 the wife is 28, we pay about $400/y for the Ulysses and the R1150R together. Both of us are insured on both bikes. She has two speeding tickets on motorcycles in the last 2 years. In fact, we just got a note that our Progressive rate is going DOWN for our June renewal.
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May 1, 2012 23:29
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I've tried every single insurance company I can think of including weird little ones like Markel, and I can't get it under $470 for the year. Does it have to do with living in Denver? What insurance companies do you guys use? I know it won't guarantee a lower rate, but at least I can start where other CAers have gotten good rates.
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May 1, 2012 23:56
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Radbot posted:I've tried every single insurance company I can think of including weird little ones like Markel, and I can't get it under $470 for the year. Does it have to do with living in Denver? I used Foremost and then bundled in with State Farm.
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May 2, 2012 00:45
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Radbot posted:I've tried every single insurance company I can think of including weird little ones like Markel, and I can't get it under $470 for the year. Does it have to do with living in Denver? Progressive lumped in with my car insurance and renter's insurance (underwritten.) I should mention my $400/yr was with my 25y/o wife listed as insured as well.
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May 2, 2012 01:46
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I think the real lesson about insurance is: Don't be under 25. I get raped on insurance for a 75 Honda 550, purely due to my age. Progressive was by and far the cheapest I found though.
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May 2, 2012 01:56
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I've never bothered with collision on my bikes. Everything but for the C14 is $120/year. I think its about $400 with collision. (OLD GUY.. but not 40)
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May 2, 2012 02:06
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Would blue grips on a blue bike look weird? The rubber on my right hand grip split so I'm contemplating ordering a new pair.
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May 2, 2012 02:06
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Radbot posted:I've tried every single insurance company I can think of including weird little ones like Markel, and I can't get it under $470 for the year. Does it have to do with living in Denver? Do you keep it in a garage? I imagine street-parked bikes are more expensive to insure.
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May 2, 2012 02:30
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I took the MSF course this past weekend and passed the test no sweat, so now I'm starting to consider picking up a bike on the somewhat cheap; 3-4k tops, less is better. I've got a bunch of coworkers/friends who ride a wide variety of different things and are all older, responsible, ATGATT types so I have some trustworthy resources at my disposal but just wanted to see if AI has any insight or recommendations. I'm looking to pick up something that's kind of a sporty standard (or standard-y sport) for bombing around town and for some short trips to the mountains and islands (at most an overnight, generally less than 1 day), and based on my own research and my friends my current short list is an SV650, GS500, Ninja 250R/500R, and the BMW K75. Yeah, I know the K75 is kind of an odd contender on that list. Now I know that a lot of people would say get the Ninja 250 as a first bike, and I am definitely considering it. But my friends and I think I'm responsible enough to handle a little bit bigger bike without killing myself, too. I'm 25, driving since 16 with a clean record, road biking seriously for several years, and also have some experience on 125cc underbones on the crazy roads of SE Asia. I did great in the MSF course, really impressed the instructors, and felt really natural on the KLX250 I was riding, though I know that's much different than riding on the street. Am I stupid for considering something bigger than a Ninja 250? Any other options I should be considering? As for the K75, I think BMW motorcycles are pretty rad, I've owned a couple BMW cars and still do own one so I kind of know what I'm getting into with the BMW brand, and I'm mechanical enough to feel comfortable working on it since it would be an older bike. I'm still undecided if it's something I want to dive into right now, though. Guinness fucked around with this message at 02:35 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 02:32
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Progressive has treated me pretty well. I have 4 years with no claims/tickets and my b-king with full insurance (comp/collision/um) and low deductables works out to less than 60/mo. It would be cheaper if I paid in chunks or bundled my car insurance. I am 22 years old (prime insurance rape age). I will say that I pay about the same now as I did on my first sv650 almost 4 years ago. Looks like they really, really like a clean driving history.
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May 2, 2012 02:41
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Guinness posted:I took the MSF course this past weekend and passed the test no sweat, so now I'm starting to consider picking up a bike on the somewhat cheap; 3-4k tops, less is better. I've got a bunch of coworkers/friends who ride a wide variety of different things and are all older, responsible, ATGATT types so I have some trustworthy resources at my disposal but just wanted to see if AI has any insight or recommendations.
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May 2, 2012 02:45
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Radbot posted:I've tried every single insurance company I can think of including weird little ones like Markel, and I can't get it under $470 for the year. Does it have to do with living in Denver? I pay $133/year through State Farm for great coverage, and I'm near Boulder so it can't just be your area.
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May 2, 2012 02:47
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Guinness posted:I took the MSF course this past weekend and passed the test no sweat, so now I'm starting to consider picking up a bike on the somewhat cheap; 3-4k tops, less is better. I've got a bunch of coworkers/friends who ride a wide variety of different things and are all older, responsible, ATGATT types so I have some trustworthy resources at my disposal but just wanted to see if AI has any insight or recommendations. Gonna agree with the Rev. here...get the SV650, you'll be fine.
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May 2, 2012 02:55
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So, I'm looking into getting a bike to commute on, and am looking at riding gear online. I figure that my leather combat boots should work, and found this stuff online for what I feel is a good price. (I don't have a very large budget) I, however, have not ridden a motorcycle before, and would like to appeal to goon wisdom before making any decisions. I'll be signing up for the MSF on Friday after I get paid, and will wait to order the gear until I've completed the course. Do you guys have opinions on leatherup.com, the gear I picked out, or my use of combat boots instead of dedicated motorcycle boots? http://www.leatherup.com/p/HJC-Full-Face-Helmets/HJC-CL-16-Solid-Matte-Black-Helmet/95088.html http://www.leatherup.com/p/Mens-Mot...ket/337891.html http://www.leatherup.com/p/Motorcycle-Gloves-/Xelement-Mens-Black-Gel-Padded-Palm-Racing-Gloves/56128.html http://www.leatherup.com/p/Xelement-Mens-Pants-and-Chaps/Xelement-Mens-Black-Tri-Tex-Pants-with-Reflective-Piping/97512.html Thanks in advance!
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May 2, 2012 02:55
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Early 30s, about $550/year for full coverage on a new Speed Triple through Geico. Disappointingly, no discount for ABS. Time with a new license plays a big part, your first year or two will be brutal unless you have a very conservative bike.
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May 2, 2012 03:12
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Day Man posted:So, I'm looking into getting a bike to commute on, and am looking at riding gear online. I figure that my leather combat boots should work, and found this stuff online for what I feel is a good price. (I don't have a very large budget) I'd buy full gauntlet gloves and leather ones. Helmet is fine, if it fits, do you know if that helmet fits you? If you're not going to get full riding boots with proper ankle support, your combat boots will be as good as any entry level motorcycle boot. I'd say get the full riding boots but that's a call you have to make, if you're not going to wear them, don't bother buying them. Also I'd look for something with at least 1000 denier fabric in the sliding areas, that jacket is only 600. Higher denier means higher threadcount which usually means more abrasion resistance.
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May 2, 2012 03:43
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Guinness posted:I took the MSF course this past weekend and passed the test no sweat, so now I'm starting to consider picking up a bike on the somewhat cheap; 3-4k tops, less is better. I've got a bunch of coworkers/friends who ride a wide variety of different things and are all older, responsible, ATGATT types so I have some trustworthy resources at my disposal but just wanted to see if AI has any insight or recommendations. I got the SV as my first bike a few days ago and I love it. It has a lot of torque but nothing a beginner cant handle.
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May 2, 2012 04:17
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Z3n posted:Also I'd look for something with at least 1000 denier fabric in the sliding areas, that jacket is only 600. Higher denier means higher threadcount which usually means more abrasion resistance. Correct, although denier actually means higher thread thickness rather than threadcount. 
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May 2, 2012 04:20
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Nice, I'm glad to hear you guys all say get the SV650. That's kind of at the top of my list currently, but now I need to find a couple to test ride. Thanks for the confirmation.
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May 2, 2012 04:31
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As a newer rider a tamer lighter bike like the 250 will be more forgiving but a sv isn't a bad option. I'm amazed at how easy it is to tightly maneuver a ninjette versus my FZ6, which isn't too much larger. I'll say in these threads too that I started on a FZ6 but the 250 taught me to ride. The FZ6 rode me around, it wasn't until I put some miles on the little 250 that I felt like I learned how to move a bike around. I always hear that "you shouldn't get a small bike because you'll 'outgrow' it too quickly". What I think most people mean by 'outgrow' is 'get used to the throttle' when it should be 'learn how to comfortably pilot the bike'. If you get rid of it in a season because of that, good. You learned to ride and it served you well. Skipping the "learning to ride" part just because you can resist the wrist twist is silly. I just see lots of riders looking very awkward on bikes and I think about how I used to be one of them. I even have video evidence lol. nsaP fucked around with this message at 04:47 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 04:42
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Z3n posted:I'd buy full gauntlet gloves and leather ones. Helmet is fine, if it fits, do you know if that helmet fits you? I do not know if that helmet will fit. I figured I'd measure and use their exchange policy if I get the wrong size. I like the fact that it's got the more stringent testing badge, and the low price. I did not know what the denier count meant, thanks for explaining. Is that "level 3" the type of armor I should be looking for?
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May 2, 2012 05:13
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Day Man posted:I do not know if that helmet will fit. I figured I'd measure and use their exchange policy if I get the wrong size. I like the fact that it's got the more stringent testing badge, and the low price. I did not know what the denier count meant, thanks for explaining. Is that "level 3" the type of armor I should be looking for? Yeah, CE certification is good, and higher numbers are better. Helmet fit is a very individual thing, you can't just measure, you also have to take into account head shape. Go try on a bunch of helmets, there's nothing worse than a helmet that "fits" but compresses the poo poo out of your forehead, causing a massive headache after 30 seconds.
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May 2, 2012 05:29
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Z3n posted:Yeah, CE certification is good, and higher numbers are better. Scorpion and most Arai for me  HJC fits the very best, followed by Suomy and Shoei for me. Seriously, HJC is the best feeling helmet ever for my head.
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May 2, 2012 06:23
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Z3n posted:Yeah, CE certification is good, and higher numbers are better. Alright, thanks! I'll definitely do that. I'm sure there are plenty of shops around here.
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May 2, 2012 06:46
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Tenchrono posted:Would blue grips on a blue bike look weird? The rubber on my right hand grip split so I'm contemplating ordering a new pair. Post a picture of your bike and the grips in question, and I'll photoshop it for you so you can see.
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May 2, 2012 06:59
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Snowdens Secret posted:Time with a new license plays a big part, your first year or two will be brutal unless you have a very conservative bike. What counts as a conservative bike in the context of this statement? Lower displacement? Age? Current value?
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May 2, 2012 13:28
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Splizwarf posted:What counts as a conservative bike in the context of this statement? Lower displacement? Age? Current value? Something not particularly powerful nor likely to be stolen. Something like a Ninja 250 or a GS500.
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May 2, 2012 13:33
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I quoted myself (19, 0 years experience, MSF) on a '08 Ninja 250 through Progressive just for fun the other day, came in at $307/year.
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May 2, 2012 13:49
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drat, I just looked on the Progressive website, I'd be saving over $200/year for my insurance. Just might have to switch, that is a pretty nice difference. Edit - I'm a 25 year old male in the Chicago area, not married yet, no tickets or accidents or any of that stuff, on a 13 year old cruiser. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 17:41 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 17:34
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I think I need to go and talk to an agent or something, I'm completely clueless as to why a 26 year old person with a flawless driving record and an MSF course under his belt would be getting higher rates than 19 year olds. Maybe my bike is considered a squiddy literbike, even though it's just a DL1K?
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May 2, 2012 17:38
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Radbot posted:I think I need to go and talk to an agent or something, I'm completely clueless as to why a 26 year old person with a flawless driving record and an MSF course under his belt would be getting higher rates than 19 year olds. Maybe my bike is considered a squiddy literbike, even though it's just a DL1K? It could be that 1k... When you're looking for a quote, make sure you're putting in 996cc (for the 2012, or whatever it is for yours). I'd bet at least some companies jack it up at that size. My 04 MTS 1000 is only $221 through Progressive, but the engine size is only 992cc. I'm 27.
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May 2, 2012 18:16
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Splizwarf posted:What counts as a conservative bike in the context of this statement? Lower displacement? Age? Current value? KozmoNaut posted:Something not particularly powerful nor likely to be stolen. Something like a Ninja 250 or a GS500. Basically. Something that doesn't say "I'm going to wear this as a hat / wrap it around a tree / smash through a school bus before I've ridden a month." If you want cheap insurance to start out, rule out a modern 600cc+ sportbike or anything that even sounds like one, and Lord help you if it's got '1000' in the name. Because we've all known the guy that totalled his Gixxa the first weekend he owned it. Cruisers get cut slack (they wreck going slower) and at some point even the most widowmaker UJMs become 'classics' and get really affordable. A DL1000 is possibly in their system as '1000cc sportbike' which gets you stratospheric rates. Talking to a human might help, saying it's a V-Strom might help. My first insurance company (I think Merkel) tripled my rates one year after they 'reclassified' my Z1000 from a standard to a sportbike (I immediately switched) and Geico keeps switching my Speed Triple back and forth to a Street Triple, so there's reasonable odds their systems are just a mess, and reasonable odds they'll work with you on it.
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May 2, 2012 19:44
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Today I tried lowering the gear shift lever on my new SV. I adjusted the gear shift rod as far as it could go, but the lever was still too high and I have to lift my foot off the peg to shift. So I tackled the clamp/shaft, taking off the clamp and relocating it. At first I positioned it wrong, causing the lever to strike against the adjacent nut portion of the rod. I positioned the clamp again so the lever was high enough that it wouldn't hit the rod. It seemed to shift into first fine from neutral, then I went around the block, shifting up into 3rd... Then I slowed down to a stop, and shifted into what was supposed to be first. I tried taking off again, but the bike wasn't in first - slipping as if it was in 2nd or 3rd. It refused to go into neutral or 1st. I slipped the bike back home and looked at the adjustment of the clamp - tried adjusting the shifter lever to be too high like before along with other incremental adjustments, but the bike STILL won't let me find neutral or go into first. I pushed down with my finger until it felt as if it was in first - then shifted as much up as I could, counting 5 shifts... Then back down, and still no neutral? WTFFF. I hope i didnt break anything. Does anyone have any advice? the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 23:13 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 23:08
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Sagebrush posted:Post a picture of your bike and the grips in question, and I'll photoshop it for you so you can see. Thanks but I just saw this and I picked up some dark blue ones earlier. On that subject, How do you install these? The cashier said something about soapy water, I assume just take the old ones off and slide the new ones on?
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May 2, 2012 23:54
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the walkin dude posted:I slipped the bike back home and looked at the adjustment of the clamp - tried adjusting the shifter lever to be too high like before along with other incremental adjustments, but the bike STILL won't let me find neutral or go into first. I pushed down with my finger until it felt as if it was in first - then shifted as much up as I could, counting 5 shifts... Then back down, and still no neutral? WTFFF. I hope i didnt break anything. Does anyone have any advice? Not specific, but make sure your clamp is on the correct spline position and tightened correctly, and can achieve full range of motion when you operate the shifter lever with positive, firm action on the shift shaft. You also need to have the bike running to perform a shift test. It will not behave correctly when stopped.
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May 2, 2012 23:58
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There's a specific spline position for my SV? I did pull the bike a bit fwd/back and ran it during my shifting test that got me up 5 shifts.
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 00:07 on May 3, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 23:59
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the walkin dude posted:There's a specific spline position for my SV? Well presumably part 27 here needs to be in the right position to be able to remain in a neutral position when the rod is not actuated by the lever, and still move the shift shaft around in its proper range when being shifted. 
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May 3, 2012 00:02
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