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IOwnCalculus posted:Ah, so I'm not the only one here racking up ridiculous miles on one (105k and counting). I've got 95k on my 08.5. Should hit 100k within the next month or two!
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Apr 5, 2012 21:17
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Anyone know how likely it is that brand new Tokico shocks would be bad? I ordered a set for my '06 Speed6 from THMotorsports and had them installed at a local shop a few days ago. Immediate super loud clunking while taking the car home (I guess nobody test drove it before giving it back to me). The shop says THM sold me bad rear shocks, THM says the shop didn't install them properly. I've already called THM and they're putting in a "damaged part request" to Tokico, whatever that means. I'm supposed to be getting a call back within a few days. The shop owner is apparently going to install one of "his own" shocks to prove to me that my Tokico's are bad. Have you ever dealt with a situation like this? The shop owner got extremely defensive when I suggested they weren't installed properly.
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Apr 6, 2012 01:31
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Anyone with a Cobb filter: right after I oiled mine, my car starts surging when I'm the highway. I'll be driving at say 60 or so, it'll feel like it cuts off and then kicks back in. It's happened before and I don't recall what I did to fix it. I'm assuming my filter is over-oiled and my MAF is dirty?
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Apr 6, 2012 15:13
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Are there any MS6 owners here with an upgraded exhaust? I have a little more money to play with and since the exhaust on the car was poorly installed when I bought it I've decided that exhaust is next on the list. I'm looking at the Corksport Turboback system here http://www.corksport.com/product-31270.html which includes includes the downpipe, exhaust and my choice of a racepipe or catless tube. As far as complete exhaust systems there doesn't seem to be a better bang for the buck. The Magnaflow system doesn't include a racepipe or downpipe. I'd like to hear any feedback or advice before I drop the cash on this.
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Apr 6, 2012 22:42
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How are the turbos holding up for you high mileage guys? I imagine some of your are on newer turbos due to the smoking issue.
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Apr 8, 2012 05:03
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As far as I'm aware my turbo is original (and if it's not, then I have at least 80k on mine). No smoking turbo and no rattling timing chain, though I do notice that I burn about half a quart in ~3500-4000 miles if I use 5w30 instead of 10w30.
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Apr 8, 2012 05:08
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So I got to drive a supercharged Ariel Atom today. After spending time with a car that has about a half inch of clutch throw and wads of power, the ms3 feels like a pig. I'm sure I'll forget about it, but until then...
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Apr 8, 2012 05:20
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SynMoo posted:How are the turbos holding up for you high mileage guys? I imagine some of your are on newer turbos due to the smoking issue. Not yet .. all original goodness
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Apr 9, 2012 15:36
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Does anyone have suggestions for new plugs with these MZR engines? I've been doing some reading and I'm not sure if I should go one step colder on them or not. I'm only mildly modded: CAI, HPFP, downpipe, Access Port and a soon to be added Cobb FMIC. I'm not having any issues with KR with the stock plugs, but they have nearly 60K on them.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:00
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Would one step colder reduce the likelihood of knocking? I've managed to get mine to very audibly knock a few times, always after idling around forever and getting the intercooler / turbo good and heat soaked.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Would one step colder reduce the likelihood of knocking? I've managed to get mine to very audibly knock a few times, always after idling around forever and getting the intercooler / turbo good and heat soaked. From what I've read on MSF/elsewhere it would, but not by a huge amount and only if running higher than stock boost on a 93 octane tune. Just trying to see if anyone here had any experience with them, or if I should save the $30 for more go-fast parts and just buy some regular iridium plugs.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:16
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ronaldrape posted:From what I've read on MSF/elsewhere it would, but not by a huge amount and only if running higher than stock boost on a 93 octane tune. Just trying to see if anyone here had any experience with them, or if I should save the $30 for more go-fast parts and just buy some regular iridium plugs. You've just about hit the wall for a stage 2 car. Get some Denzo 1 step colder plugs and find someone to tune your car. You are just about out of go-fast parts. A cat-back exhaust is probably the next step. After that, I don't know, you could go with a bigger turbo and manifold and maybe hit 380whp or so.
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Apr 9, 2012 20:23
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Made it out to the DC area, except now my e-brake light is always on. I've only experienced this in below 40 degree weather (the extremely rare occasions it happens in Dallas) so I'm betting that's probably the culprit. And I guess I better change my oil ASAP. For anyone else is in the area, there's a huge east coast MSF meet this weekend. I'll come out to that at some point this saturday since they also seem quite knowledgeable on the car, plus it's nice having contact info for local vendors/shops.
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Apr 12, 2012 15:07
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The other cause for your brake light being on is, you know, low brake fluid...so check that out too. 
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Apr 12, 2012 23:04
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I hadn't washed her in so long, I forgot how beautiful she is under all that dirt. 
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Apr 14, 2012 17:46
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Realized I was getting close-ish to needing to clean the air filter again, and I've never been able to find the AEM Dryflow cleaning kit in town, so I went to order a set...and found out it's no longer produced. Apparently they now recommend a specific K&N cleaner spray which costs about the same, but will get a lot more than one goddamn use out of.
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Apr 18, 2012 16:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Realized I was getting close-ish to needing to clean the air filter again, and I've never been able to find the AEM Dryflow cleaning kit in town, so I went to order a set...and found out it's no longer produced. Apparently they now recommend a specific K&N cleaner spray which costs about the same, but will get a lot more than one goddamn use out of. The kit I got from K&N has 2 sets of fluids (for both dry and oiled filters) and it's good for multiple cleanings for sure. Cobb also sells fluids but the K&N is still a better value. So as far as engine break-in/first engine oil change: I'm having a hard time filtering out all the noise searching through threads. I recall not using Pennzoil Platinum until I was at 30k, or somewhere around there, when the UOA's proved how good it was. Anyway, would it be a good idea to straight up switch into synthetic now? I drove about 1300-1400ish miles from Dallas to the DC metro area, so an oil change is definitely happening this weekend.
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Apr 18, 2012 16:55
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I don't buy the "don't use synthetic on new engines" argument anymore, there's a lot of cars that come with Mobil1 or other synthetics as a factory fill, and you never hear of oil-related failures on Corvettes. I don't know that it ever really held any weight anyway. I would switch to PP on the first change if I'd bought mine new. Somewhat unrelated: Saw a CX5 on the drive in to work today, those things look sharp in person.
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Apr 19, 2012 16:55
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Cool. Some of the people here on the east coast swear by Rotella T6 5W-40, but I think this oil means a 3k interval. I was already happy with 5k intervals on PP, but that's with mostly highway driving in Texas. Lots of stop and go on my commute now, so I'd probably have to change up the intervals to reflect the driving style.
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Apr 19, 2012 17:01
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I'm changing a Speed6 turbo right now. I hope the car falls on me and ends this torture. Broken bolts galore, wideband sensor doesn't have threads anymore.
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Apr 19, 2012 20:10
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How bad is the same job on the 3? I expect to eventually replace mine somewhere between 100k and 200k...
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Apr 19, 2012 20:14
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The 3 is not as bad. You can unbolt the turbo and drop it out the bottom. With the 6 and CX7, there is a transfer case in your way, have to remove the passenger side axle of course. Your only worry is the wideband, if it comes out without damage you are golden. And broken studs will be part of the old turbo.... So no biggy. I never take out the exhaust manifold, always drop the transfer case, that way all the lines are easier to deal with. This drat thing only pays 4.5hrs on warranty, I'll be into it for probably 6 in the end, and that's with lots of practice.
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Apr 19, 2012 20:43
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Man the 6 must really suck, I was chainging my oil yesterday and while under the car got a good look at the turbo, and thought, "gently caress that, if it ever comes out a shop is doing it". Looked completely miserable, stuffed up in there.
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Apr 20, 2012 18:35
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It does really suck. As a dealer tech I get to work on cars that are not cared for... So that makes things a lot more difficult. It looked like the owner was using this as a rally car with all that mud on it. But anyways, next Speed6 turbo job will be dropping the cradle, engine and trans all together. I can do that quickly, it wont be as bad probably.
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Apr 20, 2012 23:00
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I'm going to take a look at a 2007 Mazda3 (non-speed) hatchback tomorrow that I'm seriously considering making an offer on. Are there any issues or warning signs for this particular make/year/model that I should be looking out for?
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Apr 21, 2012 07:28
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http://bit.ly/Jkznho How doable is this TSB without bringing it in? Like in an apartment parking lot in a few hours. Or is it something that won't cost me a ridiculous amount? My steering is really loud, and seems to pop or vibrate at low speeds when braking. 2007 MS6 Laranzu fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Apr 23, 2012 |
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Apr 23, 2012 23:38
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Goddamnit, car  Been smelling the occasional whiff of cooking oil recently but figured I was crazy since I've also been getting over a flu. Crawled under to change the oil and saw the transmission has been getting wet. Looks like it's weeping from the shifter seal or whatever it's called. I really doubt it's burping up the vent since I haven't touched the fluid since I changed it ~45k miles ago. Supposedly the part is all of like $7 or so, but I can't find a single bit of information on how to actually change it. Anyone got tips?
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Apr 24, 2012 06:03
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Laranzu posted:http://bit.ly/Jkznho Well that TSB was actually easy to do. Too bad it didn't fix the loud as hell steering issue. Back to the drawing board.
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Apr 25, 2012 22:06
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Laranzu posted:Well that TSB was actually easy to do. Too bad it didn't fix the loud as hell steering issue. Back to the drawing board. Ya I did that TSB on a Speed6 about a month ago... it got a new rack in the end.
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Apr 26, 2012 06:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:Goddamnit, car Sorry but what year was your car again? And its a Speed3?
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Apr 26, 2012 06:49
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2007, and yes it's a MS3. I'm not losing enough oil to create the puddles some people get but it's enough to leave a roughly CD-sized oil spot on the inside of the undertray, as well as enough to keep the bottom of the transaxle wet.
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Apr 26, 2012 08:08
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Has anybody bought a MS3 used recently? I'm trying to get one from 07-09, but I've been watching craigslist/autotrader for a month and it's incredibly hard to get a feel for how much these are really going for.
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May 4, 2012 07:27
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Mid-to-high teens. Go for 08 or newer if possible.
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May 4, 2012 13:32
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To update my saga of stupid bullshit repairs eating my wallet alive, my transmission is now leak-free and full of fresh gear oil, all for about $230. The downside, the act of disconnecting the shifter cables must've aggravated a small fray that had started apparently (it was a little mushy going into 2/4/6 sometimes) and now those are getting replaced too. For $800. I love this car, but apparently it's decided it needs more from my wallet than a tank a week and tires every year.
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May 4, 2012 17:09
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Hit a basketball sized pot hole next to LAX, completely ruined a tire. Seriously shocked the wheel didn't end up chipped or bent itself, it was a hell of a bang. Unfortunately was boxed in by two busses and had nowhere to go. gently caress. Now have a single stopgap Sumitomo HTRZ II with the 3 OEM Yokos, like a total scrub. The OEM Yokos are ridiculously overpriced and also not very good tires, so there was no way I was going to pay to put another on... especially because im at 8500 miles and basically just counting to the days until I can get them off the car. Thinking of getting a set of Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval Indy 500s or Continental ExtremeContact DWs when the time comes.
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May 4, 2012 19:33
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 Got some new wheels, Tenzo-R Concept 10's. Also got my last bolt-on parts in a by-pass valve and some colder spark plugs. I'll be getting a pro-tune sometime in the next month and hope to hit 300 horsepower to the wheels.
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May 7, 2012 01:59
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Black Is Black posted:
I like those wheels quite a bit.
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May 7, 2012 02:01
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Black Is Black posted:
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May 7, 2012 02:25
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Battle Cattle posted:Very, very clean. How is the torque steer with that much power ? It's not that bad with an aftermarket rear motor mount. Some get side mounts as well. There is a breaking in period where the car will shake quite a bit, but it's fine now. Honestly, the car can get squirrely, but that's half the fun.
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May 7, 2012 02:28
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Black Is Black posted:It's not that bad with an aftermarket rear motor mount. Some get side mounts as well. There is a breaking in period where the car will shake quite a bit, but it's fine now. Honestly, the car can get squirrely, but that's half the fun.
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May 7, 2012 02:39
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