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Oh, and make sure you didn't put anything on upside-down or backwards for an unintentional MotoGP shift pattern.
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May 3, 2012 00:10
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The gf's SV, which clearly fits that diagram: Mah SV:  The shift rod is longer for those OSF rearsets. So it's a MotoGP pattern, indeed? Dunce time for me Even with the longer shift rod, the clamp should be in the same position as the other SV, I'm assuming?
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May 3, 2012 00:34
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the walkin dude posted:The gf's SV, which clearly fits that diagram: Yes when you press down the shift lever the gear selector should turn clockwise.
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May 3, 2012 00:38
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I fixed it! Back to shifting normalcy. That's something new for me. Thanks guys. However... I'm back to having to position my ankle on the peg just to shift, or lift my foot to shift. The P.O. was a shorter guy so this setup fit him. Does this mean I need a new shorter shifter rod or can I adjust the spline clamp to deviate from the dictated position?
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May 3, 2012 01:08
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the walkin dude posted:I fixed it! Back to shifting normalcy. That's something new for me. Thanks guys. As long as its turning the right way you can move it around a bit on the splines of the shaft to find the right height for you. edit: once you find it put a mark on the shaft and collar so you can line it up faster in future.
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May 3, 2012 01:11
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the walkin dude posted:I fixed it! Back to shifting normalcy. That's something new for me. Thanks guys. There's 2 ways to adjust it. The fine adjustment is spinning the shift rod, the larger adjustment is moving the shift knuckle on the splines it mounts to. Mark it with a grease pencil or something and shift it forward or back one spline. You want it as near to 90 degrees to the angle of the shift rod as possible to give it as much leverage as possible on the shift shaft.
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May 3, 2012 03:44
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this thread made me get a quote from geico and they come in about 600$ cheaper a year than my current insurance. I need to check with my agent if they can match that.. the current insurance covers track days and was same cost as progressive I had before.
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May 3, 2012 14:41
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I wound up taking my '06 C50 to a shop for its 7500mi check up. I had sworn it sounded like a tapping/buzzing kind of noise that matched RPMs, but the dude that worked on it said he didn't think it sounded weird at all. I think I'm no longer hearing it, so I guess that's fine. Yesterday was the first day it wasn't cold or raining, so I took the bike out for a ride longer than just to/from work, and had a pretty good time. It was admittedly a little windy even with noone around, but I was wondering: is the wind off a semi enough to make the bike wobble a little? I was at least four car lengths behind them, but it was really weird wiggling down the freeway at 70mph. It wasn't anything major, and it was actually a little fun. But I'm pretty green to riding still - it was my first time on a freeway.
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May 3, 2012 16:52
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Aexo posted:I was wondering: is the wind off a semi enough to make the bike wobble a little? I was at least four car lengths behind them, but it was really weird wiggling down the freeway at 70mph. You'll find that a lot of bikers avoid big trucks for that reason. The turbulence coming off of their rigs can be a little unsettling. Also, they're big and huge and they block a good chunk of your vision when you're riding.
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May 3, 2012 16:56
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Tenchrono posted:Thanks but I just saw this and I picked up some dark blue ones earlier. Yeah, that's pretty much it. I replaced the grips on my bike. I twisted the old ones off and put the new ones on with some spit and elbow grease. I noticed they were still a little loose, so I took them off, wrapped electrical tape around the bar once, then slid them back on. They weren't loose any more. Takes less than five minutes, and no tools required!
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May 3, 2012 17:16
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americanzero4128 posted:Yeah, that's pretty much it. I replaced the grips on my bike. I twisted the old ones off and put the new ones on with some spit and elbow grease. I noticed they were still a little loose, so I took them off, wrapped electrical tape around the bar once, then slid them back on. They weren't loose any more. Takes less than five minutes, and no tools required! Awesome, I just did them. However the new grips are about 1/4 inch off where the handcontrols are. I assume they are too small and it wasnt that great of an idea to grab bargain bin grips. There is no sliding though when I work the throttle.
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May 3, 2012 17:24
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Safety Dance posted:You'll find that a lot of bikers avoid big trucks for that reason. The turbulence coming off of their rigs can be a little unsettling. Also, they're big and huge and they block a good chunk of your vision when you're riding. Big random buffeting worse than the worst windshield. Big trucks, get off my road please.
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May 3, 2012 17:34
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Aexo posted:It was admittedly a little windy even with noone around, but I was wondering: is the wind off a semi enough to make the bike wobble a little? I was at least four car lengths behind them, but it was really weird wiggling down the freeway at 70mph. I get this bad enough to get scared in my station wagons sometimes (especially from doubles where the second one's light or empty) so not only do I assume it happens on a bike, I assume the pucker factor's quite a bit higher. As a starting rider I appreciate you bringing it up, it's probably not something I would've thought of until it happened the first time and I had to change underwear.
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May 3, 2012 17:42
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americanzero4128 posted:Yeah, that's pretty much it. I replaced the grips on my bike. I twisted the old ones off and put the new ones on with some spit and elbow grease. I noticed they were still a little loose, so I took them off, wrapped electrical tape around the bar once, then slid them back on. They weren't loose any more. Takes less than five minutes, and no tools required! For future reference, hairspray is really useful for this. Spray down the bar so that it's wet, then slide the grip into place, and when the hairspray dries it'll glue it in place like loctite. You can still get it off with some effort but it totally eliminates looseness and twisting.
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May 3, 2012 18:05
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Gonna adjust the spline a bit more later today  Is there a (relatively easy) way to know whether my current brake/clutch lines are long enough for a handlebar swap? My new SV has SS brake lines. The current handlebar (Coerce Hyperbar) is pretty low and has just a small bend. The brake line looks long enough for the new bar (Bikemaster Daytona)... I think. How do I go about finding the proper size that I'd need?
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May 3, 2012 18:06
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http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/2993934539.html How does this one look? Apparently the carbs aren't "hooked up", but the rest of the bike looks pretty clean and it has a title. Is it worth $400-500?
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May 3, 2012 19:22
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Sagebrush posted:For future reference, hairspray is really useful for this. Spray down the bar so that it's wet, then slide the grip into place, and when the hairspray dries it'll glue it in place like loctite. You can still get it off with some effort but it totally eliminates looseness and twisting. That is a really awesome tip and I will be sure to use it next time. Thanks!
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May 3, 2012 20:03
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Does the wiki still exist? I figured I'd check it out but the link is dead.
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May 3, 2012 20:05
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Radbot posted:http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/2993934539.html It's probably worth $500 in good running shape. As is, you won't even be able to see/hear it run. For me, that's an "I'll give you $150 and I'll haul it away" sort of deal, assuming I have garage space (and I don't).
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May 3, 2012 21:34
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My bike sometimes has trouble starting up and I think it may be the battery, it turns over once, pauses about half a second, does it again, then starts normally. Any ideas? Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 04:17 on May 4, 2012 |
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May 4, 2012 04:12
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Quaan posted:Does the wiki still exist? I figured I'd check it out but the link is dead.
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May 4, 2012 04:46
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Tenchrono posted:My bike sometimes has trouble starting up and I think it may be the battery, it turns over once, pauses about half a second, does it again, then starts normally. Any ideas?
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May 4, 2012 05:18
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I need some advice buying my first motorcycle. I read the OP but the links are dead. I live in Israel and the way the licensing works here is first you get a riding license for a motorcycle up to 330cc/33hp, and then a year after that you can take a test to get a general riding license. I'm looking to buy a 250cc commuter bike, and from what research I've done it seems the three big name brand bikes in this category (that are sold in Israel at least) are the Ninja 250R, the Honda CRB250R, and the Yahama YBR250. They all cost roughly the same here, about $10.8k new (and I'm likely going to go with a second hand bike for the first one.) Obviously I'm not about to buy another bike next year when I have the unrestricted license, so I want something that's friendly to newbies but will have some life in it for the long haul. Any thoughts?
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May 4, 2012 13:42
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notZaar posted:I need some advice buying my first motorcycle. I read the OP but the links are dead. I live in Israel and the way the licensing works here is first you get a riding license for a motorcycle up to 330cc/33hp, and then a year after that you can take a test to get a general riding license. I'm not familiar with the Yamaha, but both the Ninja 250 and the CBR250 are good starter bikes that will happily keep up with your riding skill as it grows. My only issue with the Ninja is that it's small: I'm 6'1" and pretty heavy, and I feel a little clown-carish on one. Is that a big deal? Not really. A modern 250 will out-accelerate just about anything this side of a BMW //M vehicle. Buying used is smart. When you're ready to sell, you can flip a Ninja for about the same as what you bought it for; there's always a market. Budget for both the bike and the armor. If you gave me free reign to buy a bike and armor for you, I'd probably wind up buying you a $1500 bike and $1000 in armor (USD). I assume the price you gave is in Shekels? That's about on par with what they cost in the US. Edit: vvvv Jeez Louise Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 14:13 on May 4, 2012 |
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May 4, 2012 13:58
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No that price is the equivalent in USD  What I really wish is that somebody would put out a classic style bike in this engine category. Rice rockets look nice but they are not very comfortable.
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May 4, 2012 14:01
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You could import a brand new one for cheaper than that.
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May 4, 2012 14:05
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I'm guessing the reason that the bikes are so expensive is import tariffs, so no, he probably couldn't. Though for $10,000 you could probably buy an engine, wheels, fork, etc, have an Israeli weld you up a frame, and build something completely from scratch and still come out on top.
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May 4, 2012 17:34
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Trying to find the optimal length for a cape to wear on my bike. Ideally I don't want it to catch in the chain/sprocket/wheels but I also understand as long as I am moving quickly this shouldn't be an issue. Curious to see what lengths others use on this forum along with material choice and color. Also would prefer direct links to shops that will carry it locally so I can pick it up as I do not want my secret identity stolen. 
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May 4, 2012 20:39
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I advise making it yourself. Send your mom to the store so they don't see your face, then kill her to cut the chain of potential identification.
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May 4, 2012 21:11
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How anal do you guys get about the oil level in your sight glass? If I am over top mark by a mm or two, is it worth the effort to try and drain some out or should I just let it ride?
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May 5, 2012 13:58
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ohwandernearer posted:How anal do you guys get about the oil level in your sight glass? If I am over top mark by a mm or two, is it worth the effort to try and drain some out or should I just let it ride? I accidentally overfilled my tank once, (like, to overflowing... poured too much too quickly). I drained as much out as I could with a straw and when it was back down to a readable level on the dipstick I just rode it off. No problems. I wouldn't worry about a couple of mm.
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May 5, 2012 14:51
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ohwandernearer posted:How anal do you guys get about the oil level in your sight glass? If I am over top mark by a mm or two, is it worth the effort to try and drain some out or should I just let it ride? If I'm above the middle of the sight glass, the first ride just pukes oil into the airbox anyway, and from there some gets sucked into the engine and burned, the rest just goes into the drain tube. I don't worry about overfilling at all as long as it's in the bubble.
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May 5, 2012 15:41
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You should be fine, though I would not advise overfilling by more than a few mm. If it's over the sightglass it is not hard to back out the drain plug and lower it a fraction so the oil drains out over your hand. Then screw it back in after a moment. What you want to avoid is massive crankcase overpressure that can blow seals, and you definitely don't want your piston skirt slamming into the oil bath. As long as you're only changing your crankcase volume by a few percent there is no issue.
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May 5, 2012 16:18
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My bike was parked on the street in the weather and rarely ridden for several years. I've already changed the tires and chain. What else should I check / replace to make sure it's safe to ride hard? Brake pads? Brake fluid? Axles or bearings or whatever? How would I check those? Basically I'm looking for things that could be compromised by long periods of inactivity and exposure to rain.
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May 5, 2012 17:13
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frunksock posted:My bike was parked on the street in the weather and rarely ridden for several years. I've already changed the tires and chain. What else should I check / replace to make sure it's safe to ride hard? Brake pads? Brake fluid? Axles or bearings or whatever? How would I check those? Basically I'm looking for things that could be compromised by long periods of inactivity and exposure to rain. Everything, if you want to "ride hard" right away. Does the bike have carbs? If so, they're probably caked in poo poo on the inside. The tank may be rusty and filled with nasty old gas. Brake fluid is essential to change, since it's very likely to have been contaminated by water. Electrics could be damaged as well. I'd do those things and give it a gentle test ride around the block if it starts up. If it runs and rides OK, check the wheel bearings for play etc., most likely they will be tight initially, especially before you actually ride the bike. But they will get worse quickly as they start to move again. Check for looseness at regular intervals. But for Pete's sake, don't start out with a "hard ride". KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 17:27 on May 5, 2012 |
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May 5, 2012 17:25
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frunksock posted:My bike was parked on the street in the weather and rarely ridden for several years. I've already changed the tires and chain. What else should I check / replace to make sure it's safe to ride hard? Brake pads? Brake fluid? Axles or bearings or whatever? How would I check those? Basically I'm looking for things that could be compromised by long periods of inactivity and exposure to rain. Your battery is probably toast. It may charge up on a charger but probably won't hold long, I'd recommend replacement. Locks (ignition, gas cap, seat) may be full of crud from dried rainwater, clean / lube with graphite. Dunno about your pads but you should replace the fluid at least, and pads are cheap to do at the same time. Drain the fuel tank if you can, the gas goes bad and there may be water. Carbs may be a sticky mess requiring cleaning. Even FI may need some Seafoam or something. Change the oil. Basically go over it checking for freedom of motion, rotted hoses, dried up fork seals, etc., replace as needed. And it may look like rear end from being outside but give it a good clean (and wax or something on the painted bits) to keep it from getting worse.
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May 5, 2012 17:31
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KozmoNaut posted:Everything, if you want to "ride hard" right away. Thanks for the tip on the brake fluid (and the other tips). How do I check the wheel bearings? Snowdens Secret posted:Your battery is probably toast. It may charge up on a charger but probably won't hold long, I'd recommend replacement. Battery was toast, I replaced it. Locks all function, but you're right, they could probably use some lube. I've replaced the gas and oil already. Everything seems to move full range of motion. How do I check for dried up fork seals? Bouncing around on the bike in the garage feels normal / okay. I've given it a good bath, and it mostly looks okay, except for a few parts (really only the connectors on oil cooler lines) that got rusty. Thanks man.
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May 5, 2012 17:42
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If you're not seeing consistent residual oil on the fork legs where they slide then you're ok on fork seals.
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May 5, 2012 18:01
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I guess it's covered in 'everything' but don't forget your air filter too. I've seen a few pictures of animals making a home in there and if it's been sitting that's a possibility.
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May 5, 2012 18:14
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So, uh, how likely am I to get pulled over on a two mile trip with a tire or two bungeed to myself or my backpack?
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May 5, 2012 18:57
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