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iwentdoodie posted:So, uh, how likely am I to get pulled over on a two mile trip with a tire or two bungeed to myself or my backpack? Depends on how many wheelies you roll running from A to B.
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May 5, 2012 18:58
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Z3n posted:Depends on how many wheelies you roll running from A to B. As it turns out, no need to worry. Called another shop, and he has a set of take off BT-45s he'll sell me for...well, let's just say they have less than 2K miles on them and it's less than a new battery. Hook up for a fellow 2 stroke rider, he says. loving awesome.
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May 5, 2012 19:08
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Why do you think you would get pulled over?
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May 5, 2012 22:59
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quote:So, uh, how likely am I to get pulled over on a two mile trip with a tire or two bungeed to myself or my backpack? If you can fit them its a lot easier to put them around your waist. I apologise for hurting your feelings if you are too fat to do this.
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May 5, 2012 23:44
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MotoMind posted:You should be fine, though I would not advise overfilling by more than a few mm. If it's over the sightglass it is not hard to back out the drain plug and lower it a fraction so the oil drains out over your hand. Then screw it back in after a moment. I think my father and I overfilled by a margin when we changed the oil pan. And I 'believe' it ended up being vented into my airbox and thus came out my airbox drain when I drained it a few weeks after. Did we actually hurt anything?
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May 6, 2012 00:02
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thylacine posted:Why do you think you would get pulled over? If I was a cop and saw some guy with tires bungee corded to his back, I'd probably look twice. And I don't know if I'm too fat to do that or not, but the point is now moot. 80 for two take off tires, installing them, and putting my new chain on. loving awesome.
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May 6, 2012 00:16
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nsaP posted:I guess it's covered in 'everything' but don't forget your air filter too. I've seen a few pictures of animals making a home in there and if it's been sitting that's a possibility. By the way, I was scouting google maps for a parking lot that'd be good for practicing, and it looks like I found the right spot: http://g.co/maps/96nwc (That's clearly an MSF class going on)
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May 6, 2012 04:33
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frunksock posted:My bike was parked on the street in the weather and rarely ridden for several years. I've already changed the tires and chain. What else should I check / replace to make sure it's safe to ride hard? Brake pads? Brake fluid? Axles or bearings or whatever? How would I check those? Basically I'm looking for things that could be compromised by long periods of inactivity and exposure to rain. Is your bike red or green? This is important.
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May 6, 2012 09:03
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Sir Cornelius posted:Is your bike red or green? This is important.
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May 6, 2012 17:05
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Ziploc posted:I think my father and I overfilled by a margin when we changed the oil pan. Well like everyone is saying, a bit overfilled is no problem. If there was a problem, you'd already have a problem by now. But you don't. So there's no problem.
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May 6, 2012 17:17
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I see a lot of people recommending sv650s for a first bike. Isn't it a bit too powerful to be one?
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May 6, 2012 17:53
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An observer posted:I see a lot of people recommending sv650s for a first bike. Isn't it a bit too powerful to be one? When i'm not accidentally dropping mine in the garage its fine. I just started riding a few weeks ago but I can handle the power fine.
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May 6, 2012 17:56
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It's not that bad. It's on the upper end of what's considered okay to start on but if you're not a mouth breathing retard (most people humble enough to ask aren't) you'll be fine. Chances are pretty good if you wreck it's not due to power it's due to inexperience and panic moments. The SV is sedate enough not to get you in trouble imo.
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May 6, 2012 17:56
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An observer posted:I see a lot of people recommending sv650s for a first bike. Isn't it a bit too powerful to be one? I tend to only recommend the sv if the person has some kind of previous riding experience that will help them avoid making stupid mistakes with the controls. So some offroad experience, or riding a scooter, or something like that. It has enough power that you can power wheelie an sv in first gear if you slap the throttle hard which is why I think some previous experience is a good idea.
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May 6, 2012 18:21
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Anybody have any experience/opinions on a 97 Honda CBR 600 F3?
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May 6, 2012 18:34
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An observer posted:I see a lot of people recommending sv650s for a first bike. Isn't it a bit too powerful to be one? I'm on my first bike, a Bandit 600, which has similar HP. Any close calls I've had have been due to me entering corners a bit too hot for comfort, not because of the power. And they probably weren't really close calls, but just felt like it due to inexperience. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 18:47 on May 6, 2012 |
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May 6, 2012 18:41
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Day Man posted:Anybody have any experience/opinions on a 97 Honda CBR 600 F3? For what sort of use/experience level? They're good bikes, but heavy and powerful for a new rider.
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May 6, 2012 18:45
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Z3n posted:For what sort of use/experience level? They're good bikes, but heavy and powerful for a new rider. Yeah, I meant for a new rider. I have experience on ATV's, but none on motorcycles. I have a lead on a really cheap CBR that's running but scratched up. Seeing people recommend the SV650 makes me wonder if the CBR would be alright for a new rider as well.
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May 6, 2012 19:35
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Day Man posted:Yeah, I meant for a new rider. I have experience on ATV's, but none on motorcycles. I have a lead on a really cheap CBR that's running but scratched up. Seeing people recommend the SV650 makes me wonder if the CBR would be alright for a new rider as well. A Vtwin (the SV650) and an inline four (CBR) are apples and oranges in terms of displacement. Look at a dyno chart for each and you'll see why.
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May 6, 2012 19:38
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Bloody Queef posted:A Vtwin (the SV650) and an inline four (CBR) are apples and oranges in terms of displacement. Look at a dyno chart for each and you'll see why. Yeah, I thought the SV was reccomended also because the power of the vtwin is constant while the I4 can get you into trouble very quick?
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May 6, 2012 19:45
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Thanks for the advice re: sv650, guys. 
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May 6, 2012 20:12
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Salvage title and he says he fixed it himself? Probably not a safe bet? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mcy/2991698980.html
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May 6, 2012 22:59
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JD posted:Salvage title and he says he fixed it himself? Probably not a safe bet? Doesn't know the difference between brakes and a break? Hmm. The weld looks clean, though.
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May 6, 2012 23:07
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Tenchrono posted:Yeah, I thought the SV was reccomended also because the power of the vtwin is constant while the I4 can get you into trouble very quick? Exactly. Also the CBR has a lot more peak horsepower too.
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May 6, 2012 23:14
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If you have the self control to not get into the high rev ranges, you'll be fine on the CBR as a new bike. They're more upright than more modern supersports, which is good for new riders and street use. I don't really agree with the general consensus on the SV being an absolutely great beginner bike. The problem with the SV is exactly what people say...you have a bunch of torque at low RPM, so if you give it too much gas and dump the clutch it's going to shoot forward and probably wheelie a bit. If you do that on the CBR you might stall and jerk but it's really unlikely it's going to launch you forward really fast.
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May 6, 2012 23:30
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I've always been a level headed, defensive driver who doesn't speed on public roads. I'll keep looking around in case I find something better, but staying out of the high rpm range wouldn't be a problem. I like this one as it's super cheap, and since it's already scratched up, it doesn't matter if I'm an idiot and drop it while parking or something.
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May 7, 2012 00:21
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On a similar note, tell me about the idea of a first-gen ('87 to '07) KLR650 for a new rider. I'm a tall guy and they're one that keeps getting recommended to me for height reasons. Also, a dual is appealing given the lovely local roads: a lot of potholes, washboard, cheap repairs, and lumpy general neglect (Fredericksburg, VA). e: Moving this to the "Tell me what bike to buy" thread. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 03:53 on May 7, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 02:29
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Splizwarf posted:On a similar note, tell me about the idea of a first-gen ('87 to '07) KLR650 for a new rider. I'm a tall guy and they're one that keeps getting recommended to me for height reasons. Also, a dual is appealing given the lovely local roads: a lot of potholes, washboard, cheap repairs, and lumpy general neglect (Fredericksburg, VA). It's an absolutely bulletproof bike, once the doohickey is done. Mine is >30,000 miles and still running strong. I've crashed it and it doesn't care, it just keeps going. It's a bit of a compromise -- not a great offroader like a dedicated dirt bike and not a great touring bike -- but it gets the job done again and again.
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May 7, 2012 03:16
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Please elaborate on doohickey?
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May 7, 2012 03:58
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Splizwarf posted:Please elaborate on doohickey? The KLR doohickey is apparently widely known though the more technical term for it is the Balancer Chain Adjuster Lever
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May 7, 2012 04:05
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An observer posted:Thanks for the advice re: sv650, guys. I started on an SV650 with my only previous experience being a manual car and riding a bicycle when I was (way) younger. I feel that the power is extremely manageable at all RPM's because you're not getting any surges at weird RPM's. The power is definitely there, but I could ride the bike all day long accelerating at a snail's pace if I wanted. It only goes as fast as you want it to.
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May 7, 2012 06:38
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Xovaan posted:I started on an SV650 with my only previous experience being a manual car and riding a bicycle when I was (way) younger. I feel that the power is extremely manageable at all RPM's because you're not getting any surges at weird RPM's. The power is definitely there, but I could ride the bike all day long accelerating at a snail's pace if I wanted. It only goes as fast as you want it to. I agree with this. I was messing around on the R6 earlier and it really does surprise me still how hard it pulls if you grab throttle around 10k rpms. SV's are pretty linear from the start in my experience making them easy to get to know quickly. The R6 especially probably feels REALLY tame to someone new until 6k when it gets a little more balls and then 8 or 9 when it really starts to pull. I could see that ending badly in a panic situation.
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May 7, 2012 06:50
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How am I supposed to get the carbs back on a 1984 magna 500? Got new boots, greased them up and pushed for like 2 hours. Only the fronts went in. By my best guess, this is physically impossible. How did they assemble this thing in the first place? broke them tables! clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:30 on May 7, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 08:18
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Looks like each one has two sets of hose clamps and you've only undone one. Hose clamps in tight spaces are terrible to work with, but the orifice needs to be fully relaxed and properly lubricated to ensure successful penetration.
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May 7, 2012 09:01
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Bloody Queef posted:A Vtwin (the SV650) and an inline four (CBR) are apples and oranges in terms of displacement. Look at a dyno chart for each and you'll see why. Is there any particular website that has stock dyno charts that are available to compare bikes?
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May 7, 2012 09:07
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Ola posted:Looks like each one has two sets of hose clamps and you've only undone one. Hose clamps in tight spaces are terrible to work with, but the orifice needs to be fully relaxed and properly lubricated to ensure successful penetration. I'm not really THIS immature, but for some reason this made me  a bit.
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May 7, 2012 09:10
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That makes sense, I'll loosen the bottom clamps and try again. We do have some grease in the mix already.
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May 7, 2012 15:41
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clutchpuck posted:That makes sense, I'll loosen the bottom clamps and try again. We do have some grease in the mix already. I usually find it easier to mount the boots on the cylinder flange(s) first, and then press the carburetor(s) in place. But yes, you'll have to loosen both clamps on each boot. For lubrication use a few drops of silicone oil. This is my best partner for intake-boot-battles: 
Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 16:17 on May 7, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 16:01
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Also, it's normal for that to be a horrible pain in the rear end. All the Japanese I4 engines make that job torture, and you don't even have to deal with the different cylinder angles on those.
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May 7, 2012 17:51
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iwentdoodie posted:If I was a cop and saw some guy with tires bungee corded to his back, I'd probably look twice. I strapped my tires to the Uly for the 30 mile interstate ride to the shop I got them changed at. No drama. I imagine it's just like anything, if it's strapped down and secure, it shouldn't be a problem.
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May 7, 2012 20:45
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