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I'm 6' with a 33-34" inseam, so most of my height is in my legs. The miata I sat in was on stock rails modified slightly to match the sprint V, and I was almost under the bar with the helmet on. I figure I'll gain about 1" from the stock rails. Honestly, I'm probably going to put the sprint V in before the rollbar, as my biggest issue right now is sliding around on the stock seats, and I don't need the bar for autox.
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May 6, 2012 21:33
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I destroyed my pristine 6ul finish today with some white engine enamel paint. I should probably not be allowed around cars.
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May 6, 2012 21:40
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I will forgive you because that looks excellent. What bar is that? E: Never mind, checked your posts and its a hard dog double diagonal. I see you took the sticker off... TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 21:57 on May 6, 2012 |
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May 6, 2012 21:45
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First Time Caller posted:I destroyed my pristine 6ul finish today with some white engine enamel paint. I should probably not be allowed around cars. Don't worry, that paint isn't destroyed, it only looks that way from the hipster photo effect.
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May 6, 2012 22:48
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EVERYWHERE 
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TrueChaos posted:I see you took the sticker off... Their poo poo logo isn't rice enough. meatpimp posted:Don't worry, that paint isn't destroyed, it only looks that way from the hipster photo effect. Touche.
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May 7, 2012 04:21
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Phone posted:Perfect excuse to buy a drill/drill-press and some steel stock. I've actually got a used sprint V and want to make my own mount (as im pretty broke). Is there any guide to doing this i'm pretty clueless. I've got access to a drill, a drill press and gas torches but i dont want to go into a project blind with my lack of fabrication experience.
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May 7, 2012 06:58
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:I've actually got a used sprint V and want to make my own mount (as im pretty broke). Is there any guide to doing this i'm pretty clueless. I've got access to a drill, a drill press and gas torches but i dont want to go into a project blind with my lack of fabrication experience. This isn't much help but there's a guy who posted a bunch of pictures on his cardomain site of his. Pretty simple, just get a couple pieces of flat stock and bend them and drill.
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May 7, 2012 11:53
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Any thoughts on the 6 speed vs 5 speed box?
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May 7, 2012 12:20
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If you turbo it and make decent power the 6-speed becomes a must since it can handle a bunch more torque. I'm otherwise happy with the 5-speed I have in the car.
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May 7, 2012 13:18
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willie_dee posted:Any thoughts on the 6 speed vs 5 speed box? The 6 feels notchier to me. I like the feel of the 5 better, but as said above the 6 can take more power. Also the 6 is really close ratio so if you dont like rowing a boat then its probably not the transmission for you.
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May 7, 2012 13:39
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The 6-speed is an Aisin box, is notchier, is undestructable. The FD is a bit higher than the 5-speed, and if you have a 4.1 or 4.3 rear end, you are going to be shifting. A lot. The seat bracket/rails: buy piece of steel stock, find out where the mounting points are, mark,drill and bend into shape. Save $100.
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May 7, 2012 15:21
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leica posted:It's probably not the cable, it's more than likely the rear caliper(s) seizing up which is a common problem with these cars. IIRC you take the caliper apart and clean/lube everything up really good (the pins) and it should be ok, but if it's too far gone you gotta replace the caliper. If the caliper locked up, wouldn't the spring arms that work the brake cable cause the cable to stay tight? I said cable because the first half of the thing's range of motion didn't have any tension, which to me says locked cable. If the calipers are locking up, wouldn't yanking the handle just lock them harder instead of un-sticking them? I ask because it's only been ~10k miles or so since I changed everything but the discs.
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May 7, 2012 17:10
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Phone posted:The 6-speed is an Aisin box, is notchier, is undestructable. The FD is a bit higher than the 5-speed, and if you have a 4.1 or 4.3 rear end, you are going to be shifting. A lot. I can confirm this. I enjoy driving stick a gently caress ton, but even I feel like it can be a bit much in traffic. In autocross though, 2nd and 3rd gear become the go-to pair instead of debating a first gear down change.
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May 7, 2012 17:17
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Tactical Bonnet posted:If the caliper locked up, wouldn't the spring arms that work the brake cable cause the cable to stay tight? I said cable because the first half of the thing's range of motion didn't have any tension, which to me says locked cable. I'm not sure, it's been awhile, but when I worked for a Miata shop years ago whenever there was a parking brake issue 99.9% of the time it was the caliper.
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May 7, 2012 17:28
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Rain rail question: I've got my top on the frame and I'm ready for my rain rail, which is asymetrical plastic and vinyl sewn together, it looks. Of course there are pretty much zero instructions with it other than the torque sequence. I'm not going to rivet or attach the rain rail to the top. 1. Where do the felt or whatever washers go? On the studs first before any material? Last before the nuts? 2. What's the "stack" of the top and rain rail? I assume it's the two sections of the rain rail sandwiching the top fabric? I'm really ready to have this over and done with!
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May 7, 2012 19:32
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Protege/323 guys have the same rear caliper setup. Most guys install a "helper spring" to assist the main parking brake spring and hooking it to the strut. Not sure if it works on the Miata. 
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May 7, 2012 19:33
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Well, if it happens again I'll do a better job of crawling around and looking at the calipers, I didn't have a ton of time with a gallon of milk sitting under 90F sunlight. It hasn't happened again since then, so I'm going to hope it was a fluke and see how it goes.
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May 7, 2012 19:58
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You're not gonna be able to see any visual cues to it just looking at it. You'll have to try and take it apart, and make sure the slider pins are lubed up good and working like they should. Also a possibility the piston is sticking. Oh and hey Sock, I remember seeing that trick in the Protege forums, do you know which thread that was in? I'm gonna be servicing my brakes soon and would like to give it a shot and see if it works for Miatas.
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May 8, 2012 05:59
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dreesemonkey posted:Rain rail question: I've got my top on the frame and I'm ready for my rain rail, which is asymetrical plastic and vinyl sewn together, it looks. Of course there are pretty much zero instructions with it other than the torque sequence. I'm not going to rivet or attach the rain rail to the top. Well I got it figured out last night. I'm almost done, though I need to order some nuts for the frame that holds on the rain rail, I knew I was missing one but I think I lost a couple more in my boiling sea of rage. I'm also extremely stupid, I wasted probably almost an hour fighting with those frames before I realized I had them upside down. I probably lost 5 lbs last night just from swearing alone. I need to get those nuts, put the belt line covers back on, get a bolt for the one seat, fabric paint the seats and rear shelf carpet and it should be good to go.
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May 8, 2012 13:06
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1999 NB. I put a clutch in a few months ago; it was for a 1.6, but I matched the flywheel from a 1.6 as well, so it works fine as far as clutches go. The only problem is that when the clutch is disengaged, there's a chatter that sounds like an unoiled hamsterwheel. It doesn't matter what gear I throw it into (though you can only really hear it from a stop), and it doesn't appear to change frequency with RPM. I assume this is the "normal" clutch chatter that comes with a lightened flywheel (it's 11 lbs), but just figured I'd check. Is there anything that might be done to prevent it?
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May 10, 2012 18:03
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Sounds about right; I have some chatter from my FM flywheel.
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May 10, 2012 18:30
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Is there a trick to putting the hardtop on/removing it solo? I'm 5'6" and it feels just barely too big to pull this off. I don't have one of those fancy garage hoist things, and I'm renting.
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May 10, 2012 23:46
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blugu64 posted:Is there a trick to putting the hardtop on/removing it solo? I'm 5'6" and it feels just barely too big to pull this off. I don't have one of those fancy garage hoist things, and I'm renting. Grow longer arms, or get a friend. Basically what I do is this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvw9ix_cbJA
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May 10, 2012 23:53
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I put a towel on the trunk, slide it backwards onto there, then I lean over the back and reach around the whole thing (as if I were hugging it) and my hands can reach the corners where the 'roof' meets the 'c pillar', but I could see that not working if my arms were shorter. Actually that video looks easier than what I do.
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May 11, 2012 00:04
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TrueChaos posted:Grow longer arms, or get a friend. Basically what I do is this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvw9ix_cbJA Pretty much what I tried, and it worked, but all sorts of sirens were going off in my head. I think I'll either have to get a hoist and a place to mount a hoist, or stick to the buddy method.
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May 11, 2012 00:17
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Stand on the door sills and do that. I'm 5'6" as well and can do it if I can't find anyone to pull it off with me.
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May 11, 2012 02:51
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Made the world a better place last night. After 3 months of searching for a miata, my friend picked up a '99 Sport for $2000. It's pretty rough cosmetically and the top may need to be replaced, but it drives great. He couldn't stop smiling... I can't imagine driving a Saturn Ion of all things before. 
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May 11, 2012 14:15
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Blaise posted:He couldn't stop smiling... I can't imagine driving a Saturn Ion of all things before. I went from a Pontiac sunfire to a miata last summer, and I still haven't stopped smiling. For 2K, a rough around the edges NB is a great deal. What's the mileage like?
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May 11, 2012 15:00
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TrueChaos posted:I went from a Pontiac sunfire to a miata last summer, and I still haven't stopped smiling. For 2K, a rough around the edges NB is a great deal. What's the mileage like? 160k. Drives great, and since it's a sport package it has a torsen. I did a stupid smokey sloppy triplefishtail U turn with it during the test drive... the tires on it are awful!
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May 11, 2012 15:12
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Wow holy crap that's a great deal. Blaise - Finally manned up and my top is done, thanks for questioning my manhood 
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May 11, 2012 15:50
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I had the exact same problem as you installing my top. Missing parts, upside down rails, not sure which order it went on.
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May 11, 2012 22:19
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blugu64 posted:Is there a trick to putting the hardtop on/removing it solo? I'm 5'6" and it feels just barely too big to pull this off. I don't have one of those fancy garage hoist things, and I'm renting. Remember to disconnect the defroster pigtail. 
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May 11, 2012 22:36
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Blaise posted:Made the world a better place last night. After 3 months of searching for a miata, my friend picked up a '99 Sport for $2000. It's pretty rough cosmetically and the top may need to be replaced, but it drives great. He couldn't stop smiling... I can't imagine driving a Saturn Ion of all things before. Someone should sell me some factory NB sideskirts like your bro has.
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May 12, 2012 14:51
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This is a terrible idea, right? http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2997136725.html I would probably be jumping right into the middle of someone else's disaster, but it has all the stuff I would want to put on a miata, for the same price as stock ones of the same vintage in the area. At the very least the turbo is a knockoff.
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May 13, 2012 23:11
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That's too much of an overbore to get any real power out of a daily driver turbo. You could buy a stock 1.6 car and a FM turbo kit for (pretty much) guaranteed reliability and power for less than that price. You DON'T want Racelands, they're worse than the stock shocks unless you only care about the ability to raise and lower your car at will. The wheels are also too large and the tires are too narrow if I wanted to get picky. Max I could see paying for that car is 3,000$. craig588 fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 13, 2012 |
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May 13, 2012 23:50
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Thank you for the breath of sanity. Why is that too much of an overbore?
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May 13, 2012 23:59
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That's in the range of what I've seen people running on their track cars that get rebuilds after a couple races. If you kept the boost low then it's probably fine, but from what I've read if you go more than 40 thousandths over it should be for a naturally aspirated engine because the cylinder walls start getting too thin to handle the pressure.
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May 14, 2012 00:02
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Also looks like he's got a harnesses without a roll bar, and only mentions a boss frog harness bar. Makes me wonder what else has had corners cut.
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May 14, 2012 00:05
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Ok then, that was the kick in the butt I needed to stay out of that guys mess, I prefer to make my own. I just got back from driving this, 96 A model http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2986356410.html My first time ever driving a Miata. I liked it: small, sporty, I fit ok. But man is it gutless. I figured it would be moderately comparable to my 40 year old z, but its not even close. The Z has torque, you stomp on the gas and you go. The Miata, not so much. Its well taken care of, the roof and interior are in excellent condition. A lot of little nicks and scratches in the paint. Engine has a pretty loud tick until its warmed up. Underside looks really good. Guide me miata experts. Is this a good car? Is it worth it to dump 3k worth of turbo into it to make decent power? Are they loving quick with a good turbo kit? I felt pretty happy with everything in this car, except the engine.
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May 14, 2012 02:44
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I have a 1.6 w/ a used greddy kit and a bipes - it's been dead reliable and was easy/cheap to obtain and install.
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May 14, 2012 02:51
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