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clutchpuck posted:I strapped my tires to the Uly for the 30 mile interstate ride to the shop I got them changed at. No drama. I imagine it's just like anything, if it's strapped down and secure, it shouldn't be a problem.  This was me once, through downtown Atlanta. I know the point is moot, but yes. If things are relatively strapped down, it's no big deal.
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May 7, 2012 21:03
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The last time I drove a motorcycle to get tires, I wore them around my waist.
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May 7, 2012 21:20
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I just signed myself up for back-to-back days for the California Superbike School in August at VIR, renting their S1000rr. They didn't have any slots left for classes to use your own bike. How well will the experience transfer to my SV? Also, is there anything I should bring or prepare? Any tips or advice? lowcrabdiet fucked around with this message at 22:42 on May 7, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 22:04
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lowcrabdiet posted:How well will the experience transfer to my SV? having ridden with my friend while he was on his s1000rr, I'd say "a change of underwear"
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May 7, 2012 22:27
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When it comes time to get tires changed, is there any advantage to pulling the wheels yourself, then having a shop change them? Or is there no savings at all to be had there?
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May 7, 2012 22:58
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My local place charges less (and is quite a bit faster, obviously) if you just bring in the wheels, but I don't know if everybody is that nice.
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May 7, 2012 23:06
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Sagebrush posted:My local place charges less (and is quite a bit faster, obviously) if you just bring in the wheels, but I don't know if everybody is that nice. It's usually like 20-40 bucks cheaper off the bike. Especially rears.
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May 7, 2012 23:09
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Usually there's some savings if you just bring in the wheels off the bike. Especially if you're having them mount internet-bought tires. It's worth it to look out for places that don't charge extra for on-bike tire changes, because they do exist however uncommon. Also, many shops do free or cheap tire change if you buy the tire from them.
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May 7, 2012 23:10
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lowcrabdiet posted:I just signed myself up for back-to-back days for the California Superbike School in August at VIR, renting their S1000rr. They didn't have any slots left for classes to use your own bike. How well will the experience transfer to my SV? Don't crash unless you plan on purchasing an s1000rr...
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May 7, 2012 23:11
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lowcrabdiet posted:I just signed myself up for back-to-back days for the California Superbike School in August at VIR, renting their S1000rr. They didn't have any slots left for classes to use your own bike. How well will the experience transfer to my SV? That depends on how good the instruction is. You'll certainly learn something, but it's hard to concentrate on corner speed when your busy braking from 180mph. quote:Also, is there anything I should bring or prepare? Any tips or advice?
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May 7, 2012 23:35
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I rode a liter bike and I was absolutely shocked that the front wheel lifted through a roll on in first and second. That was a cbr1000rr which is down on the bmw by a good bit. I hope they leave that thing in rain mode with traction control at max.
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May 7, 2012 23:59
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clutchpuck posted:Usually there's some savings if you just bring in the wheels off the bike. Especially if you're having them mount internet-bought tires. My new-found local shop says free mount/balance if you buy the tires from them. They're within 10% of online, free mount/balance, and have the tires IN STOCK ALL THE TIME. Sold. A lot of guys around me have been taking internet tires in then being surprised at the price to get a tire mounted. "It's not cheaper this way anymore!" they cry. Get some tire spoons and do it yourself then; there's a reason it costs $20.
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May 8, 2012 01:59
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Synonamess Botch posted:I went to adjust my chain this morning, and I used a straight edge (T-square) on the sprocket to make sure the chain was going straight. When all was said and done the left side of the bike was almost a full notch further back than the right side. Did I screw something up or is this an "acceptable" tolerance? I've never used a straight edge before but even so everything still looks straight. DRZ400. Answering my own question in case anybody else has this problem in the future. Took my wheels off this morning to get new rubber on them and the rear has a poo poo load of free play in the laces. I'm not certain but I think that was the cause. Or should I be looking at the wheel bearings as well? Or instead does anybody want to sell me a rear wheel
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May 8, 2012 14:28
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JP Money posted:I rode a liter bike and I was absolutely shocked that the front wheel lifted through a roll on in first and second. That was a cbr1000rr which is down on the bmw by a good bit. I hope they leave that thing in rain mode with traction control at max. Don't worry they use the computer to tame the bike down quite a bit. You can still fly down the front straight but it won't let you do anything too dumb while leaned over. I did VIR with CSS last year and the only guy who managed to dump it target fixated and rode off the track. You'll be fine just take it easy and have fun.
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May 8, 2012 16:06
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They're also generally more about drills and practicing good techniques than totally going so fast.
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May 8, 2012 16:08
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VFR750 ('96) Problem: Bike loses electric power when I turn the ignition to "On". At "off" I have a digital clock, but at "On" It goes away, there's no headlights, and no sounds can be heard when trying to start. I thought the battery may have died on me, but I've had it plugged in all night to the same results. Some of you may remember I put a new/aftermaket regulator/rectifier in it. Everything has been working well till now.JP Money posted:I rode a liter bike and I was absolutely shocked that the front wheel lifted through a roll on in first and second. That was a cbr1000rr which is down on the bmw by a good bit. I hope they leave that thing in rain mode with traction control at max. I've been to a "lecture" put on by Kieth Code. The first time out on the track they make you do it in full assist (which I think is rain mode). Then they don't care what you do.
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May 8, 2012 16:09
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For those in California, what do you think about salvage title bikes? I've seen a lot of bikes with salvage titles, but it seems most of them are still in decent nick and get totaled out for fairings or a "scratched" frame. I don't own a truck, nor have I ever owned my own bike before (despite having my license for 3 years now  ) so I don't know what exactly I'd be getting myself into. I've recently moved out here to the greater Sacramento area from cross-country so I'd appreciate any advice I can get.
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May 8, 2012 20:41
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AkrisD posted:For those in California, what do you think about salvage title bikes? I've seen a lot of bikes with salvage titles, but it seems most of them are still in decent nick and get totaled out for fairings or a "scratched" frame. I don't own a truck, nor have I ever owned my own bike before (despite having my license for 3 years now At best, they are a pain to sell, even if it's a good one with a couple scratches on the fairing. It's only worth it if you intend to never sell the bike.
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May 8, 2012 20:44
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clutchpuck posted:At best, they are a pain to sell, even if it's a good one with a couple scratches on the fairing. It's only worth it if you intend to never sell the bike. They aren't hard to sell at all if you post it on a track day oriented forum for a fair price. Unfortunately most of the people who own salvage title / no title bikes seem to think they're worth 150% of new retail price and thus they won't ever sell. If you can get it cheap and sell it for around the same price you'll probably make out okay but be prepared to deal with a bunch more bullshit from buyers who didn't realize it's a salvage bike. Like I said if you plan on buying a track bike it's REALLY hard to beat a salvage titled bike with some rashed fairings as far as good deals go.
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May 8, 2012 21:00
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Any Montreal goons know a good mechanic in the area? I'm probably headed back there soon and I'm going to grab a bike. But it's almost certainly going to need to be inspected and probably have some work done, so I'm going to need reliable mechanic. Also - how bulletproof are 80s Goldwings? I'm seeing a lot of them for sale, and whatever bike I buy is going to turn into my winter project after I ride the poo poo out of it this summer. Backov fucked around with this message at 11:12 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 07:07
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Do any of you know which 125cc bike puts out the most torque? What would be the best all rounder as in good on road but can also do dirt tracks (I know that's a lot to ask but it's for someone who lives on a farm who isn't exactly light).
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May 9, 2012 10:25
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bad-yeti posted:Do any of you know which 125cc bike puts out the most torque? Farm bike 125? Has to be an old DT125 with can, pipe and dodgy tune. Rugged, produced for about the last 100 years, decent power etc. With any 4t 125 you're going to get near as dammit 125cc worth of torque. He or she will want a 2t in order to have enough power for road work as well as being fun off road. Obviously don't run knobblies on the road if it's a proper dual purpose bike, but the DT will cope with both. Adjust final drive ratio if the bulk is actually causing issues. They did/do a DT125X supermoto-a-like, but I'm just talking your good old fashioned beaten to poo poo DT.
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May 9, 2012 14:19
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bad-yeti posted:Do any of you know which 125cc bike puts out the most torque? If you want torque, why a 125? TW200 sounds like the bike you're looking for, but it's not a 125.
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May 9, 2012 15:18
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Zool posted:If you want torque, why a 125? TW200 sounds like the bike you're looking for, but it's not a 125. Presumably wherever bad yeti is there is a 125cc learner or new rider limit? If there isn't, a Serow is the perfect utility bike.
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May 9, 2012 15:29
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I think I saw a handy dandy pretty valve adjustment sheet posted where you record what you've done. Anyone got that handy? I can't find it on google. Also don't need a shim readout since I don't need any.
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May 9, 2012 16:02
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Saga posted:Presumably wherever bad yeti is there is a 125cc learner or new rider limit? Yep, in the UK at 17 you can only ride up to a 125 on a provisional license. My girlfriends son is just about to turn 17 and they live on a farm so I was going to get him a bike as his present. But due to years of working on the farm at weekends and the like, he's a pretty big lad. I'll have a look at older DTs and see what I can find, maybe put some road tyres on it. Thanks
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May 10, 2012 12:01
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bad-yeti posted:Yep, in the UK at 17 you can only ride up to a 125 on a provisional license. DEP pipe and taped-on L plate mandatory! ne: wow, the recession must be really loving up used bike values, I'm even tempted. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201218468201774 Throw some Avon distanzia or Pirelli Scorpion MT60, MT90 A/T etc on it and you're golden.
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May 10, 2012 12:09
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bad-yeti posted:Yep, in the UK at 17 you can only ride up to a 125 on a provisional license. TDR125 is a nice bike, a road going DT.
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May 10, 2012 12:57
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Had a track day with the CRF450SM yesterday. First two sessions were wet so lower speeds but a fair amount of high rpm running. Had my temp warning come on (200+ degrees) but the 220+ one never came on and the warmest I saw it was 112. Between second and third session I was starting it (kick start) and on one kick it just let out a loud bang, kind of like a back fire or something. I looked it over real quick and everything looked ok. Started it up and it ran fine. Third session, end of the 4th lap I noticed it felt/sounded a little weird so I did a cool down lap and pulled in. Turns out they were going to black flag me for blowing a cloud of smoke. Swingarm was covered in oil coming from the airbox. I assume the smoke was oil being sucked in through the carb and being burned. A couple people mentioned it could just be from over heating, said to check/change the oil and clean the plug then fill it back up and see how it runs. I'm worried about doing more damage. Valves were checked 4 hours (doing it every 10) before the track day, oil was changed day before the track day with correct volume. Checking the oil levels yesterday the oil came from the engine side. So did I kill the engine or what did I do?
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May 10, 2012 14:02
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The oil is coming from the crankcase breather tube.(I don't think there's a valve cover vent). I think overfilling, excessive blowby, and possibly excessive wheelies are the possible causes. You didn't happen to leave the bike upside down for a while did you?
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May 10, 2012 14:28
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Thanks for the responses regarding tire changes. It helps to know that it's not consistent, so I'll call around when it comes time. I can't say I feel like trying to seat new rubber, but I can wrench off a few bolts to save a couple shekels.
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May 10, 2012 14:33
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Zool posted:The oil is coming from the crankcase breather tube.(I don't think there's a valve cover vent). I think overfilling, excessive blowby, and possibly excessive wheelies are the possible causes. You didn't happen to leave the bike upside down for a while did you? That's what I'm hoping, they are kind of known for a lot of oil blow-by at high RPM. Bike has never been upside down while I owned it, every other orientation yes but not upside down.
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May 10, 2012 16:09
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I'm probably going to go take a look at a 2001 GS500 on Saturday, hopefully come home with it. I don't really know anyone who rides in my area so anything specific I should look out for? It only has 8k miles on it and he said he's only ridden it about 1200 miles since he bought it 2 years ago. No recent maintenance has been done except for a leaky engine cover gasket he replaced, hopefully swing that in my favor on the price. Otherwise it looks in really good nick. I figure even with the price he has it at now if I decide to sell it next season I won't take too much of a wash.
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May 10, 2012 16:52
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AkrisD posted:I'm probably going to go take a look at a 2001 GS500 on Saturday, hopefully come home with it. I don't really know anyone who rides in my area so anything specific I should look out for? It only has 8k miles on it and he said he's only ridden it about 1200 miles since he bought it 2 years ago. No recent maintenance has been done except for a leaky engine cover gasket he replaced, hopefully swing that in my favor on the price. Otherwise it looks in really good nick. I figure even with the price he has it at now if I decide to sell it next season I won't take too much of a wash. Check fork seals for evidence of leaks and suspension generally for damping action, also condition of the tyres (deterioration on sidewalls etc), evidence of rust on the exhaust system (painted steel - if he's only done short trips infrequently, it's asking for rust) and that the brakes aren't binding. At the risk of the obvious, make sure you see and hear it starting from cold and verify that throttle response is present and correct - you don't really want to have to take the carbs apart and rebuild them 6 times because the PO's allowed them to get gummed up by old petrol. Basically anything that's going to cop it if the bike's been mostly sitting for 2 years. e: frame is probably painted steel as well, so have a careful look with a flashlight / pop the seat off to check for rust in places that didn't get cleaned because they were hard to reach. If you buy it, obviously warm it up and change oil and filter before doing anything else. Intervals are probably 6 monthly by the book, so think of it as cheap insurance. Saga fucked around with this message at 17:18 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 17:16
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My SV650 exhaust line is all sorts of shades and colors of chrome/stainless/whatever. Would using black exhaust wrap around it be a good idea? Is this too Harleyish or something?
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May 10, 2012 18:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:That's what I'm hoping, they are kind of known for a lot of oil blow-by at high RPM. Bike has never been upside down while I owned it, every other orientation yes but not upside down. I'd compression/leakdown check the thing.
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May 10, 2012 19:34
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Handgrips: I've got heating elements on my bars, and my left grip gets loose when they heat up. I could easily pull it off. I've got standard grip glue on there, but it's obviously loosening with the heat. What can I use to keep the grip secure?
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May 10, 2012 20:04
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Pope Mobile posted:Handgrips: Safety wire them on. They won't be moving after that.
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May 10, 2012 20:12
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The instructions that came with the heaters said to use JB Weld but gently caress that. I want to remove them eventually.
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May 10, 2012 20:15
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internet inc posted:My SV650 exhaust line is all sorts of shades and colors of chrome/stainless/whatever. Would using black exhaust wrap around it be a good idea? Is this too Harleyish or something? Pro: Looks cool, helps with comfort if you have pipes that get close to your leg. Con: It will probably get wet and develop a funk. Or maybe that's a Western Washington thing.
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May 10, 2012 20:55
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