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I need to replace the spark leads on my '80 CB400T. Are these the kinds of things that are easy to get ahold of? They're pretty corroded.
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May 15, 2012 22:59
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Alright, what do I call this part? I've never had to talk about it before. I'd be inclined to call it "the thing that holds on the handebars", but I'm sure there's a better name for it. And then a little zoom-in 
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May 15, 2012 23:49
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Handlebar risers
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May 16, 2012 00:52
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I had the oil changed in my 2009 Triumph Street Triple in September, rode it for 100km and it has been sitting in a heated basement since then. I just insured it for the season and I'm wondering if I should be changing the oil right away since it's been sitting, change it earlier than usual, or can I wait for the 5k interval? Thanks
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May 16, 2012 01:28
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angrytech posted:Alright, what do I call this part? I've never had to talk about it before. I'd be inclined to call it "the thing that holds on the handebars", but I'm sure there's a better name for it. Most parts site will give you access to the parts fiche for your bike. From there you can find the name of every part.
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May 16, 2012 02:23
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What's a reasonable life span for a battery? The gixxer has been getting harder to start, needing heaps of cranking and then it needs a few blips to keeping going because the idle just wants to drop right down and die. I'm thinking battery because it's only (noticably) started doing it lately which has coincided with a marked drop in temperature, and also the other day after an hour-or-so long ride then 5min break, I went to fire it back up, hit the starter and it gave a few piss weak revolutions, then the bike seemed to totally lose power (dash switched off, stopped cranking), and then came back to life. tl;dr: is my battery giving up the ghost?
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May 16, 2012 02:41
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Pympede posted:I had the oil changed in my 2009 Triumph Street Triple in September, rode it for 100km and it has been sitting in a heated basement since then. I just insured it for the season and I'm wondering if I should be changing the oil right away since it's been sitting, change it earlier than usual, or can I wait for the 5k interval? Thanks It's perfectly fine, ride the piss out of it and change at the interval. I mean, do stuff like check tire pressure and give the chain some fresh lube but unless the engine oil has leaked out on the floor it's fine.
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May 16, 2012 03:53
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angrytech posted:Alright, what do I call this part? I've never had to talk about it before. I'd be inclined to call it "the thing that holds on the handebars", but I'm sure there's a better name for it. Generally known as bar clamps, at least the top parts. In many cases, nomenclature lost something in translation from east to west, so in the official parts manuals they may be known as "holders" or something even less descriptive. Don't even get me started on the Brits, where a bolt is a fixing bolt and a bushing is a bush.
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May 16, 2012 04:35
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Marv Hushman posted:In many cases, nomenclature lost something in translation from east to west, so in the official parts manuals they may be known as "holders" or something even less descriptive. My service manual calls it a "handle pipe holder". 
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May 16, 2012 04:38
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2ndclasscitizen posted:What's a reasonable life span for a battery? The gixxer has been getting harder to start, needing heaps of cranking and then it needs a few blips to keeping going because the idle just wants to drop right down and die. I'm thinking battery because it's only (noticably) started doing it lately which has coincided with a marked drop in temperature, and also the other day after an hour-or-so long ride then 5min break, I went to fire it back up, hit the starter and it gave a few piss weak revolutions, then the bike seemed to totally lose power (dash switched off, stopped cranking), and then came back to life. Sounds possible, for sure. A multimeter would tell you one way or another though.
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May 16, 2012 06:59
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Z3n posted:Sounds possible, for sure. A multimeter would tell you one way or another though. I had been thinking that I needed to adjust the manual CCT, but the whole bike-totally-losing-power thing got me thinking. Plus, I think it's probably the original, 7yr old battery.
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May 16, 2012 07:02
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2ndclasscitizen posted:I had been thinking that I needed to adjust the manual CCT, but the whole bike-totally-losing-power thing got me thinking. Plus, I think it's probably the original, 7yr old battery. You'd hear it rattling like crazy if it was that far out. Would probably sound like rod knock 
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May 16, 2012 07:07
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Z3n posted:You'd hear it rattling like crazy if it was that far out. Would probably sound like rod knock Ah yes, Rod Knock, mortal enemy of our own Layer Dan. Their brutal turf wars blight our fair forums.
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May 16, 2012 07:20
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Z3n posted:You'd hear it rattling like crazy if it was that far out. Would probably sound like rod knock Yeah, hasn't really been sounding anymore tractor-ish than it normally does. e; durrrrr, I actually know what it sounds like, tensioner failure was what killed my old ZX-6R  i smrt
2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 07:35 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 07:23
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When it rains, my bike has trouble igniting at low revs. Do I need new sparkplugs or do I have to look for something more insidious? It also sometimes backfires once when I've just started it in the 'morn. That's not interesting at all but I just wanted that out there.  (tdm850 '97, new camchain for ~1000km, carbs great, no electrical issues as of yet)
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May 16, 2012 08:47
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KARMA! posted:When it rains, my bike has trouble igniting at low revs. Do I need new sparkplugs or do I have to look for something more insidious? Pull a plug and check. As you're probably aware, needle jet wear is the only thing that usually causes these engines to foul plugs. But if it's only happening when raining, that doesn't sound like the issue. IMO it's unlikely to be a dying plug, but you might as well replace them since you'll have to pull everything off to diagnose anyway. If it's backfiring on the stock exhaust and you haven't rejetted, you could have an air leak in the pipework. The backfire would also make me think of needle jets, if you haven't done them. IIRC the TDM is prone to corrosion around that big-rear end collector box, right? Also check the collars and pipework on the exhaust side of the engine. Were the cam sprockets and tensioner replaced when you did the chain? Valve clearances checked and adjusted? Since it's doing it when wet, I'd start by pulling out your multimeter and checking the battery (since it's easy) and then everything from the plugs back. Could be a plug wire that hasn't been replaced correctly or damaged when the camchain was done, or a dying coil?
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May 16, 2012 09:25
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KARMA! posted:When it rains, my bike has trouble igniting at low revs. Do I need new sparkplugs or do I have to look for something more insidious? Could also be another part of the ignition circuit, coils, timing etc.
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May 16, 2012 10:11
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Well I think you will see I covered that in my response Ola!  But seriously, has this been happening since the camchain was done and how confident are you that they didn't gently caress up the timing? Speaking as someone who spent a lot of time chasing a mystery fuel/ignition/electrical problem on a CBR about that age, I recommend you do what the smart people do: dump the TDM in a field, set fire to it and buy a Tuono.
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May 16, 2012 13:33
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Get a spray bottle full of water and find out what doesn't work when it gets wet.
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May 16, 2012 14:42
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Exhaust is standard, ~2 years old. Yes, replaced because of Genuine Harley Sound Hole in the collector. Plop plop plop. Tensioner was fine, valves were super tight but are awesome now. Very confident in timing because I had the mechanic look at everything to get the extra vibes out. Told me that the new timing chain did not line up perfectly on account of newness (old one was +70k old  ). Told me he couldn't feel any serious vibes, but I'm not giving much stock to that opinion since his dd is a vtr sp2. Also synch'd the carbs (they needed very little adjustment) as well. Timing sprockets not changed. Airbox always seated too easy/ not at all on account of rock hard rubber.Come to think of it, I had a similar problem when I bought it. The problem then was a plug wire not seating correctly on account of me pulling it out. I kind of ruled it out because the mechanic who worked on my bike is a rockstar but he also forgot to plug the fan in... Tonight I'll take a look at the plug wires at least. I hope that's not it, since that would mean I'm a dummy. Won't be the first time I've over engineered a problem though. Still, this gives me a good excuse to run my multimeter all over the bike, which is a new experience for me. Saga posted:Speaking as someone who spent a lot of time chasing a mystery fuel/ignition/electrical problem on a CBR about that age, I recommend you do what the smart people do: dump the TDM in a field, set fire to it and buy a Tuono. What's this magical land of disposable income you're telling of??? Besides, probably gonna wuss out and buy a bandit 1200. Faired. IF I get very lucky, the grey one with burgundy frame. Sorry.
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May 16, 2012 15:08
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KARMA! posted:Exhaust is standard, ~2 years old. Yes, replaced because of Genuine Harley Sound Hole in the collector. Plop plop plop. Tensioner was fine, valves were super tight but are awesome now. Very confident in timing because I had the mechanic look at everything to get the extra vibes out. Told me that the new timing chain did not line up perfectly on account of newness (old one was +70k old Other thing is a vacuum leak in one of the fuel pump hoses. Will cause strange running and a tendency to drop onto one or die at low rpm. Had that on the TRX. You say he synched the carbs, but have the needle jets been inspected/replaced? With this engine they ovalise over time (quicker with dynojet needles), causing the bike to run horribly rich. This fouls plugs, leading to progressive power loss, weird running and eventually non-starting. If you can't spring for the Tuono, how about an early Falco?  Or become one of the cool kids and get a tricked-out TRX.
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May 16, 2012 16:46
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Saga posted:Well I think you will see I covered that in my response Ola! Yes you did! I'm annoyed when someone repeats advice already given without adding to it or even reading it and this time I have annoyed myself. Sorry. 
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May 16, 2012 17:34
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Sagebrush posted:My service manual calls it a "handle pipe holder".
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May 16, 2012 18:13
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:[some] Modern BMW repair manuals refer to valve shims as "oil sinks". Why? At least the idiosyncracies in old Japanese manuals are charming, like the electrical troubleshooting step "remove and replace the pointless regulator". I don't have any idea what BMW is saying about their valve shims with that one. Do they serve a secondary purpose? e: it actually says "pointless regurator", ha
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May 16, 2012 18:33
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A single GER - ENG translator with no particular mechanical skill makes a judgement call, the language is changed forever. Hardcore BMW heads probably insist on calling it that.
Ola fucked around with this message at 19:06 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 19:00
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Like how old bike nerds insist on calling them tappets
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May 16, 2012 19:13
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Ive put another engine in my 2001 R6 but it wont idle. The old engine had a big chunk come out of one of the cylinder walls, to fix it would have meant a new block as the cylinders are part of the block. I found a replacement engine on ebay, not much history on it, apparently ~14k miles and the bike it came out of had some idling issues. Before I did anything with it I took it to a mechanic friend iof mine and he did a static pressure test on each of the cylinders and they all held pressure. Its taken me a while to get this new engine put in with work and stuff getting in the way, today has been the first time Ive been able to try and get it working properly. First off it wasnt running at low revs at all so I balanced the carbs and gave them a quick clean (jets only). This helped but it still wont idle at normal speed - it'll sit at ~2.5k for a while then start to drop and end up cutting out after a few seconds. Theres also quite a lot of pressure from the crankcase breather, like this but not as much smoke: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvfPyvjhVK0 (not my bike). Searching around it seems that I might have got another duff engine; no idle & that pressure seems to indicate rings or another cracked cylinder Anyone got any suggestions for stuff I could try? I think Im going to have to drop it out again and get it apart to see, but I really dont want to do that..
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May 16, 2012 19:20
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What would you guys suggest for a replacement airbox? I'm trying to hunt one down for an '85 Kawasaki ZX600a I'm working on. I've poked around on ebay and found them priced all the way from $50 to $100. I could almost justify $50, but is that like way too much? Associated question, would it be possible to patch up my existing airbox with duct tape to see if doing so solves my bike from running super lean? Here's the box in question:  I was thinking of just taping down the panel that's loose to seal the box and test the engine with it.  Another shot, the loose panel is in the lower left of the frame.
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May 16, 2012 19:38
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Marv Hushman posted:Generally known as bar clamps, at least the top parts. In many cases, nomenclature lost something in translation from east to west, so in the official parts manuals they may be known as "holders" or something even less descriptive. Don't even get me started on the Brits, where a bolt is a fixing bolt and a bushing is a bush. My local Honda dealer says that the part that I need(the lower part) isn't made anymore. Can anyone suggest some good parts websites?
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May 16, 2012 19:43
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angrytech posted:My local Honda dealer says that the part that I need(the lower part) isn't made anymore. What year and model? http://www.bikebandit.com/ http://www.ronayers.com/ http://www.z1enterprises.com/default.aspx
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May 16, 2012 20:18
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I've been watching local craigslist ads for used bikes to pick up as a first real bike. Mostly looking at the SV650, Ninja 500/650, FZ6, CBR F4i, things like that. Something fairly sporty, but not a full-on supersport. Trying to keep it under 4k maximum, and less is better. Today I stumbled across this: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/3019372514.html 2005 GS500 with 11k miles, asking $2700. The price makes it pretty appealing, and it seems like it's a pretty similar bike to a Ninja 500 without looking like its from the early 1990s. Are GS500s pretty bulletproof? It would be my first real street bike, so the lower power and having already been dropped once (assuming no real damage was done, a big assumption!) aren't necessarily bad things. Any thoughts?
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May 16, 2012 20:28
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BlackLaser posted:What year and model? 75 Honda CB500T
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May 16, 2012 20:40
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angrytech posted:75 Honda CB500T http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI...Group/HANDLEBAR Or google 53132-310-010
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May 16, 2012 20:48
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So I started up my bike this afternoon planning on going to the gym, I live in a house that has a fairly steep hill once you're out of the drive way. Bike started up just fine, I let it warm up for a while, rode it down the hill, and then it had suddenly just cut out. I parked the bike at the bottom of the hill, neutral light doesn't work, headlights aren't on, turn signals wont work, etc. Hit the starter switch, (kill switch is on run position) side stand is up, clutch pulled in, nothing, nothing at all. Strange. I used a Multimeter on the battery with the ignition off, it's a very healthy 12.89 volts, However if I turn the ignition on it drops to 3.8-4.3 volts. I checked the main fuse, it's not blown. I'm thinking my ignition might be blown? Still strange considering the bike ran fine until I got the the bottom of the hill. Haven't tested yet, but I kinda have to bring all my tools and things down the street to do anything.
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May 16, 2012 22:32
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Sounds like a short circuit to me. I have no idea how to solve this other than digging into the wiring harness, so...I hope it's not that. 
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May 16, 2012 22:49
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That totally sucks that you're stuck at the bottom of the hill. And it is hilarious.
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May 16, 2012 23:53
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Guinness posted:I've been watching local craigslist ads for used bikes to pick up as a first real bike. Mostly looking at the SV650, Ninja 500/650, FZ6, CBR F4i, things like that. Something fairly sporty, but not a full-on supersport. Trying to keep it under 4k maximum, and less is better. That said, $2200-2300 is more of a fair price, I think 2800 is a bit optimistic.
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May 17, 2012 00:24
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blue squares posted:That totally sucks that you're stuck at the bottom of the hill. And it is hilarious. Just pulled the battery and had it load tested at a batteries plus store, it's gone defective on me, of course a few months after its 1 year warranty is up! Battery was reading 12.89v unloaded but under load it would drop to 4.3v or something  Like I said the bike is ridden pretty regularly and it's never had an issue with its charging system. New battery ordered though it's the only AGM I could easily find for the GS500 and it's pretty inexpensive. http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYT10L-A2.html i'll take pictures later of the infamous hill I live on.
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May 17, 2012 00:53
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I'm ashamed to admit I've never actually taken an MSF course. When I started riding 5 years ago I downloaded the beginner course manual and went through it with my then girlfriend (now, wife in a month). Said future spousal unit has been riding bikes since she was 18 and took the MSF before she started. Every time the courses become available I'm unable to attend the dates and times they are offered, or they're filled up. MSF is free in PA, but it seems hard to get into a class because hey, it's free. This year I was able to get a spot in the Advanced Rider Course! I figured that worst case, I get to ride my bike in a parking lot for an afternoon. Best case I fix some horribly ingrained bad habit that I haven't noticed. I'm 5 years and over 50k miles experienced, so I'm not worried about it being too advanced for me, but I'm curious as to what the course is like. It seems that this is a relatively new course, and I haven't found a manual for it. Has anyone taken the ARC? What should I expect?
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May 17, 2012 02:38
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Ola posted:A single GER - ENG translator with no particular mechanical skill makes a judgement call, the language is changed forever. Hardcore BMW heads probably insist on calling it that.
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May 17, 2012 03:58
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