|
I said come in! posted:1989 Porsche 944 Turbo is the 2nd reveal for today. I love that big fat rear end
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 18:41 |
|
|
Bentai posted:What is the TransAm spec again? Are there freebie tunes on the storefront for it? Link
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:08
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:ABS is easily the worst detriment to speed of all of the assists, followed by automatic and/or manual without clutch. There are still some very fast times set by people using STM or TCS, but not many. STM seems the most useless to me. It will keep you from completely losing control of your car, but only by slowing you down quite a lot. So on or off you lose time if you screw up a turn. And then it sometimes activates in completely recoverable or intentional slides which you never want. I'm not convinced TCS makes much of a difference with high powered cars, you can still spin the wheels, just less than you could without it.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:13
|
|
|
TCS is really only useful on R1 and X class cars (although real men drive without it in those classes as well). The class in which it's the biggest hindrance in R3, since most cars in that class rely a bit on wheelspin to turn well. TCS also makes pretty much every car understeer a bit, and gently caress that noise, understeer is the worst problem to have in a car.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:17
|
|
|
Yesssssssssss, my car is back! Also they finally put the oem wheels on it!
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:17
|
|
|
Another good trick for learning how to drive without assists - Find yourself a nippy (lightweight, nimble), high-revving low class RWD car (C at the highest). You will have a lot larger window of error for learning throttle control, and you can see the physics in action far easier, so you can figure out what the assists were doing for you when they were on. I love the Alfa Romeo Spider in F, the Fiat Abarth 131 in D or E, Sprinter Trueno in about D class, or the '79 Cosworth Escort in D or C -- anything along those lines will work for these training sessions. You will also learn how to more softly and smoothly brake - low class cars are all about momentum, and trying to brake them into corners like they're F1 cars will slow your lap times down considerably whereas a mild brush of the brakes with simultaneous accelerator to modulate your angle (trailbraking) will teach you how to be gentle with the inputs, so when you move back to your preferred classes you will have a much better understanding of the fundamentals of how to brake without ABS. A few million laps of the 'Ring in those cars and you'll be driving the Mazda 787b with no assists and  ing the whole place up before you know it.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:18
|
|
|
I run no assists with the exception of the clutch. I've got it remapped to A, but I just can't figure out the timing on it, I guess. I've played with it a few times and my shifts are just garbage.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:39
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:I run no assists with the exception of the clutch. I've got it remapped to A, but I just can't figure out the timing on it, I guess. I've played with it a few times and my shifts are just garbage.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:53
|
|
|
Ether Frenzy posted:... whereas a mild brush of the brakes with simultaneous accelerator to modulate your angle (trailbraking) will teach you how to be gentle with the inputs... If someone would like a detailed discussion of friction circles and trailbraking, I can do that, but the long and short of it is that in your initial turn-in, you are not using all of the grip available to the tire and can still use some of it for braking. Not as much as you could before you initiated the turn, but you can still slow the car down while you're heading for the apex. This allows you to brake later and maintain speed just a little bit longer. It's also a very risky technique because applying just a little too much brake can cause you to spin. Boaz MacPhereson posted:I run no assists with the exception of the clutch. I've got it remapped to A, but I just can't figure out the timing on it, I guess. I've played with it a few times and my shifts are just garbage. If you hit shift up first, it won't work. If you hit them at the same time, it usually won't work. If you let off the A button before you hit the shift button, it won't work. However, if you hold both buttons too long, it will still work and still be faster than shifting without the clutch. So, to start learning the trick, make a deliberate press of the clutch button, then without worrying about how slow you're doing it, press the shift up/down button. After the driver shifting animation completes, lift off both buttons simultaneously. Now, slowly work on letting off both buttons a little bit earlier. Eventually, you'll find the spot where you can safely lift and still complete the shift. Now work on getting the first part right -- try to decrease the time between button presses. Eventually, you'll get that down to the where everything takes no more time than it took you to do a clutchless shift. You just have to train your fingers. einTier fucked around with this message at 23:02 on May 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 22:53
|
|
|
Ether Frenzy posted:Another good trick for learning how to drive without assists - Find yourself a nippy (lightweight, nimble), high-revving low class RWD car (C at the highest). [...] The greatest learner cars ever built- Miatas. Just do it. Tune one up to C425 and you'll lose count of the laps before you know it. Also understand that the move to no assists requires a lot of time investment- you'll be learning new things 100+ hours in. Of course your laptimes will also get continually faster that whole time, and soon you will indeed be driving R1s like a pro. The only two things to question turning off: -Manual/Clutch. Forza's clutch is really poorly simulated, and as much as I get a raging boner when I pull off heel-toe around Suzuka, I think it's more annoying than the time/realism it gains. Plus I have a weird issue with my thumb joint that makes rolling across the buttons suck for me, so I am biased here. -Normal/Simulation driving. Especially on the controller in Simulation mode, Forza artificially stops you from being able to countersteer. Try getting into a musclecar or whatever has too much powerand let the back end come out, and examine how much the game lets you countersteer. I've stopped driving Sim entirely because it is completely annoying to have the game stop you from correcting an oversteer that you know you can catch- especially when Normal steering does it just fine. Normal still won't allow you to catch like a pro, but it does respond at all. ABS/TCS/STM should be off for everyone, as should frankly all of the HUD except for laptimes and the tires/damage popup where appropriate and only because you don't have a spotter to ask. If you're a real man you should also be in-car only except in the rarest of cases (the 787b has such a waste of screen space- sometimes I can't take it anymore and I cheat).
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 23:15
|
|
|
I like the look of the in-car camera, but I use the hood cam because of the feeling of speed!!
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 23:22
|
|
|
Why you gotta make your crazy purist camera view a gender thing.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 23:22
|
|
|
TannhauserGate posted:-Manual/Clutch. Forza's clutch is really poorly simulated, and as much as I get a raging boner when I pull off heel-toe around Suzuka, I think it's more annoying than the time/realism it gains. Using the wheel, I get the feeling that I'm at a disadvantage when it comes to manual with clutch. I have to press the clutch all the way down with my feet, shift into the next gear, then release the clutch. Versus mashing two buttons on a controller. And if I go online, I cant use the microphone unless everyone in the room wants to hear "CLACK CLACK" every time I shift. e: \/\/ I got the ClubSports. If you can post the adjustments other people might find it useful too, unless it's an individual preference thing. Minijaka fucked around with this message at 00:09 on May 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 15, 2012 23:56
|
|
|
^^^ Map the clutch so it has a 5% inside deadzone, and a 65 or 70% outside deadzone. Clutches tend to engage halfway through pedal travel IRL. If you watch someone driving a manual clutch racing car in real life, they're jabbing the clutch in at a very short throw. Doing this will allow you to quickly shift. What pedals are you using by the way? If you've got a set of clubsports, I can help you get them set up perfectly. Also, use a wireless headset. Those have a mute button on the side so you can have it muted until you feel you need to speak. It'd be cool if we could use one of the untilised buttons on the wheel as a Push To Talk switch. TannhauserGate posted:-Manual/Clutch. Forza's clutch is really poorly simulated, and as much as I get a raging boner when I pull off heel-toe around Suzuka, I think it's more annoying than the time/realism it gains. Plus I have a weird issue with my thumb joint that makes rolling across the buttons suck for me, so I am biased here. Nowadays, I'm using my clubsport pedals to full effect. Heel toe downshift flawlessly for every corner, and in some cases swapping my right foot for the left foot during braking so that my right foot can start accelerating as soon as I want to. Needless to say, it took me a long time to learn it, but I've gotten so good at it that I'm no faster using the autoclutch mode on my Fanatec wheel than I am using the clutch manually. Hell, using a shifter vs using paddles doesn't really make a difference to me either. quote:ABS/TCS/STM should be off for everyone, as should frankly all of the HUD except for laptimes and the tires/damage popup where appropriate and only because you don't have a spotter to ask. If you're a real man you should also be in-car only except in the rarest of cases (the 787b has such a waste of screen space- sometimes I can't take it anymore and I cheat). The distance marker is a good way to see if someone's very close to you. If it's anywhere between -50 and -1 then you should be looking around you to see where the encroaching car is to avoid a crash. The trackmap is also useful. For rookies, it's good to know if a fuckoff corner is on the way, but for people who have driven around Laguna seca over 500 laps in all the sims and trackdays they've done, it still has a purpose which is to get a visual representation of how far back/ahead cars are and if someone is stationary on track. Split times and mirror are self explanatory, as are laptime and lap number. Speedometer is also useful. I use hood cam as it feels more connected to the car than the interior view, which just doesn't feel like a realistic representation of being in a car such as if you were playing rFactor or NFS Shift 2 (as unrealistic as that game is, the interior view as great). The fact that I can't turn off the virtual steering wheel doesn't help, as I don't need a slower reacting and turning wheel behind my real one. I wish there were actually more HUD elements than what there is now. How about a mini telemetry window like rfactor, or a throttle/brake map similar to GT5. Putting the split time / time to car ahead/behind in a 50% opacity box and bought down to the bottom of the screen would also be super. Falken fucked around with this message at 00:03 on May 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 00:00
|
|
|
TannhauserGate posted:If you're a real man you should also be in-car only except in the rarest of cases (the 787b has such a waste of screen space- sometimes I can't take it anymore and I cheat). The in-car camera in this game is claustrophobic, useless and not anywhere near a good representation of driving a real car. gently caress it.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 00:21
|
|
|
I'd also like more split information for multi-class racing.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 00:24
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:1989 Porsche 944 Turbo is the 2nd reveal for today. gently caress yeah. You know I'd been flip-flopping a little about this pack, but just seeing thing reminds me that it'll be totally worth it. Now as far as assists go I'm ehcoing everyone else, ditch ABS first because jesus can it slow you down. I don't think I've ever driven with it on though, because the force feedback through the controller really is good enough to let you know. Plus assuming you upgraded the brakes on your car you should be able to find a nice point where fully braking locks you up, but having the trigger only half-squeezed should brake without worry. It differs with each car and tyre temps, but once you have it tuned right you'll get a hell of alot more out of braking than with ABS. Manual gears though... I've never been able to handle it on a pad. Give me a shifter and pedal-clutch and I'm fine, but on a pad its just too much for me. That said, I've managed to handle C-class with full manual. But I have a goofy setup compared to you guys: left bumper to upshift and right bumper to downshift. That way I don't have to do any dual-finger stuff and I get to keep my "look backwards" button. Like someone else said though, don't be scared about racing online, especially with goons. Since I havn't raced properly since F3 I'm still racing really soft, letting people past and sticking to my side of the road on corners. Sure I go slower, but I wipe out less people and theres ALWAYS someone at the back of the pack to have a good race with. Usually someone with a tune below the Pi limit or racing a gimmicky car, but its still good fun. I'd also advise the tactic that for the first 2 turns let anyone near you past and take it slow making sure you have total control over the balance of your car. Because either in the first or second turn poo poo hits the fan and 2/3 guys get wiped out. Sometimes just surviving the first turn can be enough to get into a position you can hold through the race. Also I've had alot of success by simply holding my place behind the guy infront and waiting for them to spinout. Happens ALOT in public races, I guess pubbies can't handle the pressure
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 00:52
|
|
|
I like the quote about how nobody wins a race on the first turn, but lots of people lose it. I still think it's a bad idea to learn how to drive without TCS when other peoples' races are at stake, but as long as you aren't some aggressive shitlord who thinks you're the second coming of Senna, it's probably fine to do, just so you have someone to chat with while you hot lap.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 00:55
|
|
|
I always freak out when someone's behind me not because of pressure, just because I know it's only a matter of time before they try to out brake me and destroy the rear end of my car. It's happened so many times if I see someone in my mirror, I take a corner wide just to let them pass and save me the credit penalty.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 00:55
|
|
|
The only bitch I have about the HUD (and it really isn't an issue in F4 since there aren't enduros anymore) is that the fuel gauge is impossible to identify or even nonexistent on a lot of cars in the game. I'd be happy for being able to optionally turn off individual elements...bonus points if they'd let me set the tach to only being on in
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 00:59
|
|
|
einTier posted:If you're not using a wheel and pedals, shifting in Forza 4 has little to do with real life. Basically, what you want to do is hit the A button just a fraction of a second before you hit the shift up button, then release both at the same time. NEVER LET OFF THE THROTTLE -- yes, it sounds weird and this is not the way to do it in real life if you value your car, but it is how you do it here. This is helpful as gently caress. I'll have to play with it when I get some free time.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 01:01
|
|
|
TannhauserGate posted:-Normal/Simulation driving. Especially on the controller in Simulation mode, Forza artificially stops you from being able to countersteer. Try getting into a musclecar or whatever has too much powerand let the back end come out, and examine how much the game lets you countersteer. I've stopped driving Sim entirely because it is completely annoying to have the game stop you from correcting an oversteer that you know you can catch- especially when Normal steering does it just fine. Normal still won't allow you to catch like a pro, but it does respond at all. I believe it's been said that Simulation is really only meant for people using a gamepad because it can simulate the full range of motion of the wheel linearity with the stick. Thomas from fanatec has said that with a wheel the correct setting to use is Normal. I used sim with my fanatec (and before I got the fanatec the MS wireless speed wheel) and would spin A LOT and never be able to catch the back. After I switched to normal it became a much more fun game to play and a lot less frustrating. Now the only assist I play with is the driving line or if I'm driving an r1 or better car I use manual w/o clutch because it just feels unnatural to use the clutch with the paddles. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 02:30 on May 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 02:28
|
|
|
GutBomb posted:I believe it's been said that Simulation is really only meant for people using a gamepad because it can simulate the full range of motion of the wheel linearity with the stick. Thomas from fanatec has said that with a wheel the correct setting to use is Normal. I used sim with my fanatec (and before I got the fanatec the MS wireless speed wheel) and would spin A LOT and never be able to catch the back. After I switched to normal it became a much more fun game to play and a lot less frustrating. Now the only assist I play with is the driving line or if I'm driving an r1 or better car I use manual w/o clutch because it just feels unnatural to use the clutch with the paddles. It's disappointing because car feel on the pad is amazing in Simulation- roaring around Bernie's in a Zonda is everything a car experience should be. Until the back end comes out, and the illusion is shattered. Falken posted:[words] I should have limited my comment to singleplayer and learning to live in the big scary world without driving aides. Jump in head first, turn everything off, and only re-enable bits (ABS) if you absolutely need them (R1 TCS). This is the opposite of multiplayers, where everything should always be on so you can know exactly how close the guy behind you is to ramming your rear end, and not screw up the field by forgetting that you have no clue how to work ABS. Relative to singleplayer fun-having, you'll eventually settle on having most every part of the HUD on, but I think everyone should try turning the HUD completely off for a while. It helps you train your ears to listen for shift points, you have to memorize tracks instead of relying on map-based guesswork, if you play with AI or with friends you have to use your mirrors, and so on. I eventually turned most everything back on, but the bits I learned in the meantime were crucial. It's one thing to see on a map that you need to go out-in-out on the next turn. It's another when you have no map, it takes you five laps just to remember which turn this is, and then you try to work a racing line into the layout you've built in your head. THEN when you have the map again, you go oh wow, I had no idea this bit was so sharp now that all makes sense.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 03:18
|
|
|
I was playing some hoppers this afternoon, and made a couple observations. I was in ABC'S, the multiclass hopper that uses a, b, c, and s classes. First, the cortina is a beast in C on any course with turns. Anytime I took it out, I could pull off a win, culminating in beating the A class winner (albeit with a 10 second head start) on Mugello Short (I won my class by about 3/4 of a mile). Most of the other races in that hopper I spent failing to beat any humans. Maybe it's just the right car for me, but I loved it. Second, is there any reason several of my cars were not selectable in S class? My usual fave in that class (which I don't race in particularly often) is my 360 CS, but it wasn't on the list, and neither were a number of my other top picks. Is there some setting people can set in the storefront or auction house that makes tunes unusable in multiplayer or some weird restriction on cars usable beyond just the class limit in that hopper? It really ruined any race where I drew S class and had to flail around in something I never drive. And it wasn't a unicorn thing, because one of my other unicorns was selectable, and non-unicorns we're missing.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 03:47
|
|
|
TravBot posted:Second, is there any reason several of my cars were not selectable in S class? My usual fave in that class (which I don't race in particularly often) is my 360 CS, but it wasn't on the list, and neither were a number of my other top picks. Is there some setting people can set in the storefront or auction house that makes tunes unusable in multiplayer or some weird restriction on cars usable beyond just the class limit in that hopper? It really ruined any race where I drew S class and had to flail around in something I never drive. And it wasn't a unicorn thing, because one of my other unicorns was selectable, and non-unicorns we're missing. I believe there are options for the host to add custom restrictions on everything from drivetrain to model year, so you might have just been running afoul of some of those settings.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 06:20
|
|
|
azflyboy posted:I believe there are options for the host to add custom restrictions on everything from drivetrain to model year, so you might have just been running afoul of some of those settings. Yeah, but the ABC's hoppers are set up by Turn10, not by the players. You should be able to see everything you have, as long as it is within the class. Also, Turn10 did that patch fix which changed the PI of some cars, so I would check those cars in garage to make sure they are still in S class.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 11:12
|
|
|
YF19pilot posted:Yeah, but the ABC's hoppers are set up by Turn10, not by the players. You should be able to see everything you have, as long as it is within the class. I checked my S class selection immediately before jumping into the hopper, because I remembered having a surprisingly small selection last time I had played in the ABC'S, so I know it wasn't that. I just have no idea why cars would just disappear like that.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 11:59
|
|
|
Sometimes the only way to select some of your cars is to re-apply the tune once you're in the lobby. Also, thinking of getting a wheel & pedals setup - any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 12:48
|
|
|
Zip! posted:Also, thinking of getting a wheel & pedals setup - any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 13:34
|
|
|
TannhauserGate posted:-Normal/Simulation driving. Especially on the controller in Simulation mode, Forza artificially stops you from being able to countersteer. Try getting into a musclecar or whatever has too much powerand let the back end come out, and examine how much the game lets you countersteer. I've stopped driving Sim entirely because it is completely annoying to have the game stop you from correcting an oversteer that you know you can catch- especially when Normal steering does it just fine. Normal still won't allow you to catch like a pro, but it does respond at all. GutBomb posted:I believe it's been said that Simulation is really only meant for people using a gamepad because it can simulate the full range of motion of the wheel linearity with the stick. Thomas from fanatec has said that with a wheel the correct setting to use is Normal. I used sim with my fanatec (and before I got the fanatec the MS wireless speed wheel) and would spin A LOT and never be able to catch the back. After I switched to normal it became a much more fun game to play and a lot less frustrating. Now the only assist I play with is the driving line or if I'm driving an r1 or better car I use manual w/o clutch because it just feels unnatural to use the clutch with the paddles. Huh? Are we playing the same game here? IMO Simulation is a pain in the rear end on gamepad and nearly impossible to manage powerful RWDs with, where it's absolutely brilliant on the MS wheel. I know Simulation mode doesn't seem to interact with 900 degree mode on Fanatecs properly, but on the MS wheel I won't race without it. Normal mode makes it a lot easier to catch spins, but it doesn't feel realistic, it feels like an assist built for gamepads.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 15:11
|
|
|
Normal mode is dampened to hell and back, it deadens pretty much ever movement of the car to make it impossible to get into tankslappers and the like. The problem with Simulation steering + Fanatec wheels isn't simulation steering, it's the fact that if you set the wheel to anything over 270° the response curve goes haywire and it becomes impossible to predict how the sim will interpret any of your input. With a wheel in 270° mode Sim steering is perfecly fine, and it's pretty much required for the game to feel right. Using the wheel in anything else than 270° is just plain broken, the sim doesn't interpret it properly (and yes i've tried every "fix" under the sun, none of them work properly) You can mask it using the drift assists on Fanatec wheels and the linearity settings, but the fact is, if you buy a wheel, don't expect to be able to use the 900° feature.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 16:01
|
|
|
Oh hey Carrera GT
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 16:03
|
|
|
Nice; I'm down with CGT. How many of these things are left to announce? I'm still hoping for a 917 and a 928. And a 356. And a nice 911 from like the '70s like the Carrera RS or something. Yeah, I know. also: speedtek posted:Forza4 Tune.xlsx captainOrbital fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 16:28
|
|
|
Kafouille posted:Normal mode is dampened to hell and back, it deadens pretty much ever movement of the car to make it impossible to get into tankslappers and the like. Fanatec CSR in 900 degree mode, normal steering, drift mode at 2 feels pretty perfect to me, but then I've never driven a car in real life the way I drive in forza so I wouldn't really know. Its challenging without being frustrating.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 16:30
|
|
|
captainOrbital posted:Nice; I'm down with CGT. How many of these things are left to announce? I'm still hoping for a 917 and a 928. And a 356. And a nice 911 from like the '70s like the Carrera RS or something. We're up to 21, so there's 9 cars left to announce. There's a fine running tally here: http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/5405091.aspx
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 16:30
|
|
|
xzzy posted:We're up to 21, so there's 9 cars left to announce. Did we miss the Sportclassic and the Boxster?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 16:44
|
|
|
I don't think the boxster was posted, no. Which is the way it should be. That car needs to be erased from history.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 16:46
|
|
|
GutBomb posted:Fanatec CSR in 900 degree mode, normal steering, drift mode at 2 feels pretty perfect to me, but then I've never driven a car in real life the way I drive in forza so I wouldn't really know. Its challenging without being frustrating. It feels ok because you're in normal steering and it's dampening everything enough that the lack of predictability isn't too important. I have a CSR too, try sim steering and 270°, you'll see the difference, the cars don't feel like planks of wood anymore.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 17:02
|
|
|
Kafouille posted:Normal mode is dampened to hell and back, it deadens pretty much ever movement of the car to make it impossible to get into tankslappers and the like. I drive with a GT2 with sim steering at 720 degrees and it seems fine to me. I turned drift to 0 which helps predictability. Has anyone tried sim steering since the last patch or so? Are you turning on the xbox before the wheel?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 17:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 18:41 |
|
|
Kafouille posted:It feels ok because you're in normal steering and it's dampening everything enough that the lack of predictability isn't too important. I have a CSR too, try sim steering and 270°, you'll see the difference, the cars don't feel like planks of wood anymore. Yeah I didn't get a fanatec wheel to have a wheel that only turns 270 degrees. It's fine for an F1 car but not for a game like this. Also I played with the wheel both before and after the patch. I played on nothing but sim until about a month ago and it just wasn't any fun because maybe I'm a lovely driver (yeah i'm really not that great) I couldn't catch the back AT ALL in sim after the patch. Before the patch it was slightly easier because when turning the wheel it wasn't linear. Making small corrections could prevent a spin with little 1 hand flicks of the wheel in the direction of the slide, not very precise, and it would 80% of the time prevent a spin. After the patch I don't think I've been able to save myself from a spin in sim without slowing WAY down. It may be more realistic (but as the fanatec ceo says it's not for a 900 degree wheel) but it just wasn't fun and I want to have challenging fun, not constant annoyance and frustration which drives me to play other games. I want to play a game that feels realistic to me and 900 degrees on normal with drift at 2 feels more realistic to me than 270 degrees on sim steering. I also play GT5, iRacing, and F1 2011 (which I do play in 270 mode because that's what a f1 car does) and Forza 4 in sim mode is the only one that was actually frustrating and I play all of those with the assists off and whatever their "realistic" steering setting is. iRacing I certainly do spin a lot but catching the back isn't impossible like it is for me in Forza/sim. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 18:07 on May 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2012 18:02
|
|