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Excuse me good sir, the term you ineffectually grasp for should be widdershins.  Bloody colonists.
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May 17, 2012 04:11
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My bike blew it's lowbeam bulb on the way home from work the other day, I replaced the bulb and it was fine when I tested it in the driveway, and when the bike was idling. As soon as I left my driveway it blew again, what would cause that? the Reg/Rec? Regulator failures are pretty common on the daytona, but generally when it does die the symptoms include the bike cutting out while running, or the dash flickering on and off.
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May 17, 2012 12:27
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theperminator posted:My bike blew it's lowbeam bulb on the way home from work the other day, I replaced the bulb and it was fine when I tested it in the driveway, and when the bike was idling. The latter symptoms you mentioned are if your voltage regulator is putting out too little power. If you're blowing low beams it means it's putting out too much power. It will eventually start burning up your battery as well. You should be able to easily check this with a multimeter but I've had this happen to me on two bikes and it's always the low beam that goes first.
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May 17, 2012 12:35
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theperminator posted:My bike blew it's lowbeam bulb on the way home from work the other day, I replaced the bulb and it was fine when I tested it in the driveway, and when the bike was idling. Mostly constantly blowing headlight bulbs are caused by bad ground connection. Check the connectors.
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May 17, 2012 13:29
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Sir Cornelius posted:Mostly constantly blowing headlight bulbs are caused by bad ground connection. Check the connectors. This - my Duke II kept blowing bulbs and the neutral light for this reason.  (<--- closest thing we have to :austria:)
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May 17, 2012 13:36
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Saga posted:This - my Duke II kept blowing bulbs and the neutral light for this reason. Exactly. On a Daytona I'm willing to bet that it's the low-beam bulb terminal. 10 times more likely than the regulator/rectifier if the bike has none other issues.
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May 17, 2012 14:03
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Anyone know of a good place in the Milwaukee area to get suspension done? I'd like to get the DRZ sprung for my weight, but with a babby at home I really dont have the time.
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May 18, 2012 15:03
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Sagebrush posted:Why? At least the idiosyncracies in old Japanese manuals are charming, like the electrical troubleshooting step "remove and replace the pointless regulator". I don't have any idea what BMW is saying about their valve shims with that one. Do they serve a secondary purpose? Even new ones can be charming. The service manual for my Super Sherpa had a diagram showing how to vent the battery. It showed a little cloud of steam coming off with a sound effect of "PHOO."
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May 18, 2012 16:39
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There is definitely some engrish in my DRZ manual as well.
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May 18, 2012 16:44
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Put 40 miles on my CB500 today, loving amazing. I did notice a few things though: 1. There isn't a complete seal where the left muffler meets the left exhaust pipe. I'm planning on ordering a muffler gasket to replace it from ronayers.com 2. My front brake is squealing whenever I go over ~25mph. I figure that it's the pad is dragging so tomorrow I'm going to adjust the caliper clearance. 3. Almost every time I upshift, I hear what sounds like the gears grinding as I've let the clutch out almost completely. It's most noticeable when I'm idling at a stop light and then let out the clutch to start in first gear. Are my responses to 1 and 2 correct, or am I missing something really obvious? As for 3: does this sound like something that will be easy to fix, or am I going to end up spending a bunch of time and/or money?
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May 19, 2012 03:27
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Checked it today, the connectors are clean. I checked the voltage while the bike was running, at idle it's putting out 15-16v and when I move the throttle a little it goes up to 18. From what I've read it should be putting out 14.5v Max
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May 19, 2012 05:45
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angrytech posted:Put 40 miles on my CB500 today, loving amazing. I did notice a few things though: There's no such thing as "caliber clearence". I'm not sure I fully understand your problem. The "gears grinding" doesn't sound like something "easy to fix". Could you make a video of the situation? theperminator posted:Checked it today, the connectors are clean. Your voltage regulator is dead. Replace it. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 06:10 on May 19, 2012 |
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May 19, 2012 05:47
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theperminator posted:Checked it today, the connectors are clean. If your battery is constantly running at too high of an output, it's temperature is going to keep rising and it could go into thermal runaway. I worked on batteries in the Navy for two years and a bunch of that was car batteries used in our tow tractors and such. I've had batteries overheat during charging and had to be disconnected, but I've never seen one actually go into thermal runaway. If that happened, you would not be a happy rider.
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May 19, 2012 05:53
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Discomancer posted:I have that same year and color, it's a great bike! They are pretty reliable and very manageable power (even for a bad rider like me), and there's a good community over at GStwins that has a lot of maintenance wikis. Yeah I agree with Disco. 2800 is too much imo. 2200-2300. Try 2000. And see if its been well maintained. For a bike under 11000km and year 2005, its probably been stuck in the garage or something collecting rust.
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May 19, 2012 06:54
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How did you guys learn how to fix motorcycles? Are there any good beginner books for motorcycles? I downloaded an old service manual for my bike but its too technical. Or good websites that teach you about motorcycle maintenance for the beginner?
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May 19, 2012 06:56
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dogpower posted:How did you guys learn how to fix motorcycles? quote:Are there any good beginner books for motorcycles? I downloaded an old service manual for my bike but its too technical.
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May 19, 2012 07:14
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A factory service manual tells you what needs to be done but rarely shows you how to do it. As the good reverend says, a Haynes for your bike will hold your hand a bit more. Haynes also do this, but how good it is I can't tell you. http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/BookFeature_MotorcycleMaintenanceTechBookView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001 You will need tools (I think we have a thread for that) and ideally someone who knows what they're doing to advise so you don't make expensive mistakes.
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May 19, 2012 07:19
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Having the right tools, taking your time and being organized with parts, and having someone who knows what they're doing to help you are the big things. You're sure to make some mistakes anyway, but without one of these you make more. Take chances, make mistakes and get messy. nsaP fucked around with this message at 08:05 on May 19, 2012 |
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May 19, 2012 08:03
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dogpower posted:How did you guys learn how to fix motorcycles? I bought a Haynes manual and studied it for a while. Then I found a cranky old geezer who insists on telling everyone how wrong they are about motorcycle maintenance and tries teaching them his way of doing it 
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May 19, 2012 09:45
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dogpower posted:How did you guys learn how to fix motorcycles? Someone posted a website awhile back that (while looking looking like something out of 1998) was filled with a lot of good info on getting started with bike repair. Id post it but don't have the bookmark here in my phone.
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May 19, 2012 09:52
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SB35 posted:Someone posted a website awhile back that (while looking looking like something out of 1998) was filled with a lot of good info on getting started with bike repair. Id post it but don't have the bookmark here in my phone. There's this: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html But it's more focused on buying a used bike.
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May 19, 2012 10:04
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dogpower posted:How did you guys learn how to fix motorcycles? My dad. I'm sure he learned a lot from Haynes/other brand. He buys one for every vehicle he gets. Find a website specifically for your bike, there is probably one out there. I think some cities have open shops, kind of like a bicycle co-op where you can bring your bike and use tools/get help on site.
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May 19, 2012 12:43
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KozmoNaut posted:Then I found a cranky old geezer who insists on telling everyone how wrong they are about motorcycle maintenance and tries teaching them his way of doing it I'm pretty sure the cranky old geezer considers you a challenging juvenile student, and I'm not sure he has much success in his tireless and persistent trials of teenage education. You did buy and install a constalube-thing for a brand new D.I.D X-ring chain, didn't you? The cranky old geezer failed 
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May 19, 2012 14:29
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dogpower posted:How did you guys learn how to fix motorcycles? Forums specific to your bike are good, but most motorcycle knowledge is transferable across models. this is a good site for simple jobs http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
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May 19, 2012 14:37
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A good place to start is pick a simple maintenance job and read a lot about it. Changing your oil for instance. It will demystify a lot. Also general theory of engines and metals. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machinery http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metalworking You don't have to know all of that, but it's interesting on its own, at least I think so. It's the reference universe the plot of your motorcycle is set in. Beware of befriending an older wise man. Here is a video of Cornelius and Kozmo at work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPlQpGeTbIE The suppressed sexual tension between them is like a compressed fork spring about to go BOING and leap gloriously out of its fork.
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May 19, 2012 15:20
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Sir Cornelius posted:There's no such thing as "caliber clearence". I'm not sure I fully understand your problem. That's what the Clymer manual calls it  , but the short explanation is that there's a screw that adjusts the distance between the brake pads and the rotor. Whenever I get above 25 mph I hear a squeal, and the rotor has two thin lines on it like something's dragging.This thing sat in a shed for 13+ years until I bought it, so I figure that it could use some adjustment.
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May 19, 2012 15:46
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I just discovered something interesting as I was getting the Frame, VIN and engine serial numbers. My '80 CB400T is supposed to have Keihin VB22B carbs, but the numbers stamped into the ones on my biek are VB22C, which means that they're not the proper match. Know your bike!  If the shop that did service on my carbs a few years back went by the Honda service manual, then the primary and secondary jets would be totally wrong for the carbs that are installed. So, my question is what sort of difference do jet sized represent? My assumption (I know, I know) is that they've put in VB22B jets (Primary 70/Secondary 110) into a VB22C carb (72/118). Would those number be stamped on the jets anywhere? Or it could be something else  I don't get a lot of garage time since I primarily work at my parents' place, nowhere here to work on it.
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May 19, 2012 16:59
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Chris Knight posted:My assumption (I know, I know) is that they've put in VB22B jets (Primary 70/Secondary 110) into a VB22C carb (72/118). Would those number be stamped on the jets anywhere? Probably. I have a little tackle box full of jets and there are a handful of them that don't have the size stamped on them. It's annoying because I have to guess what size they are. But probably 99% of them in my experience have the size stamped on them. Only way to know is to check!
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May 19, 2012 17:10
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Sir Cornelius posted:You did buy and install a constalube-thing for a brand new D.I.D X-ring chain, didn't you? The cranky old geezer failed Shush you, it's been gone for a long time. Help me come up with the best solution for a center stand stopper instead.
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May 19, 2012 18:25
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Any reasons I shouldn't buy a 2006 Ninja 650? The other bike I'm looking at is the SV650 but I'm having a hard time finding a good one on craigslist for a fair price. I Found what looks like a great condition Ninja 650, but it's a 2006 with only ~1400 miles on it. Seems like it may have been sitting around a bunch, but it has always been stored in a garage and only had one owner. I think I could get it for about 3900, maybe a touch less. Seem worth it? Also, the Ninja 650 is EFI and not carbureted, right? I have an irrational hatred of carburetors.
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May 19, 2012 23:17
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Guinness posted:Any reasons I shouldn't buy a 2006 Ninja 650? The other bike I'm looking at is the SV650 but I'm having a hard time finding a good one on craigslist for a fair price. The Ninja 650 is fuel injected, the common complaints are kinda crud build quality (look for painted parts rusting on the underside) and more limited aftermarket compared to the SV. Dunno if the price is reasonable or not.
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May 19, 2012 23:21
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I'm not terribly concerned about the aftermarket, as long as typical maintenance parts won't be a hassle or inordinately expensive. The comment about general build quality is a little worrying, though. Is the SV650 known to be a lot better built? I know the SV650 has a lot of fans around here. If I were to get a bike that had sat around for a while, I'd probably at minimum want to replace all the fluids, and maybe even hoses too, right? That'd be a bit of a pain in the butt to do right off the bat.
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May 19, 2012 23:30
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Chris Knight posted:My assumption (I know, I know) is that they've put in VB22B jets (Primary 70/Secondary 110) into a VB22C carb (72/118). Would those number be stamped on the jets anywhere? It's the diameter in hundredths of a millimeter, right? 70 = 0.7mm, 118 = 1.18mm? I think I read that somewhere. If you have a really nice sharp set of calipers or an appropriate micrometer you might be able to measure them yourself. Guinness posted:If I were to get a bike that had sat around for a while, I'd probably at minimum want to replace all the fluids, and maybe even hoses too, right? That'd be a bit of a pain in the butt to do right off the bat. Bleeding the brakes can be kind of a pain, but changing the oil and coolant is pretty trivial.
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May 19, 2012 23:38
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Sagebrush posted:Bleeding the brakes can be kind of a pain, but changing the oil and coolant is pretty trivial. For sure, it's not the fluids so much as the hoses. Although maybe replacing all the hoses would be overzealous if they don't visually look too bad?
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May 20, 2012 00:52
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Ola posted:Beware of befriending an older wise man. Here is a video of Cornelius and Kozmo at work. Here's how it actually sounds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nA2-gRaxsqg
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May 20, 2012 04:17
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Sagebrush posted:It's the diameter in hundredths of a millimeter, right? 70 = 0.7mm, 118 = 1.18mm? I think I read that somewhere. I also found out that the catalog # for replacement brake levers doesn't match what's actually on my bike, so I wonder WTF else the PPO did to this poor Honda.
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May 20, 2012 04:45
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Sir Cornelius posted:Here's how it actually sounds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nA2-gRaxsqg That's wonderful! This was in related vids. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__hbtRs0jy0 Oh times, how you have changed.
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May 20, 2012 04:51
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Ola posted:That's wonderful! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFkgJcmQNtY Jo, du har ret. Jeg har en god ven med afrikansk etnisk hudfarve. Min kone har udstedt forbud mod at kalde ham "neger-svinet", men det er helt ok, at han kalder mig Göring. Better get back to "Less chatting and more questions". Sagebrush posted:Bleeding the brakes can be kind of a pain No, it can't. On a motorcycle, any motorcycle, it's a 10 minute job. It's the most trivial task, if you do it right.
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May 20, 2012 05:13
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Sir Cornelius posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFkgJcmQNtY Why are they speaking German in Hitler's accent? Also, what are they saying?
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May 20, 2012 06:13
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Guinness posted:I'm not terribly concerned about the aftermarket, as long as typical maintenance parts won't be a hassle or inordinately expensive. Just fluids is fine unless you see something actually wrong with the hoses. It's not a huge deal - an oil change is usually simple and as far as coolant goes, motorcycles usually self-bleed in a completely trivial manner. Typically you warm it, turn off, open drain bolt at the bottom of the system, refill (flush it if you want), and then run it with either a cap or a bleeder bolt open at the top for a couple of minutes. Close system and then top up the header tank if low. Brake fluid I'd just leave until the first pad change you do, unless the fluid's black or something. I'm a big fan of the ER-6/Ninja 650. The engine's very fuel efficient and the power's quite adequate for a naked road bike, especially for an inexperienced rider. The suspension is slightly crude but functional, but if you like the bike that's easily fixed by the aftermarket. Perfect for putting some miles under your belt. IME the ER-6 does have poor paint quality and generally looks like crap as soon as it has seen one winter, but it's not a build quality thing per se - it's not like the ER-6 is a maintenance nightmare or the SV better in that respect. Also, if you don't live somewhere where they salt the roads or won't be riding in winter, it's probably not a huge issue as long as you give it a weekly wash and douse it with rust inhibitor (e.g. Scotoiler FS365).
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May 20, 2012 08:32
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