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Eh you might consider just replacing the cooler, that design isn't so great anyway.
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May 22, 2012 02:04
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I remember when Zalman was relevant!
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May 22, 2012 02:05
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:I remember when Zalman was relevant! I have a CNPS9500 sans-fan passively cooling my parents' i5-2500K, keeps it ice-loving cold. Idles at like 26C I think.
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May 22, 2012 02:10
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movax posted:I have a CNPS9500 sans-fan passively cooling my parents' i5-2500K, keeps it ice-loving cold. Idles at like 26C I think. How is that possible?
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May 22, 2012 02:21
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Dogen posted:Eh you might consider just replacing the cooler, that design isn't so great anyway. It's definitely on my list, mainly because I don't like having it blowing up and waiting for the inevitable fan to die again. But, for the time being, are the temps fine, if maybe a little high? Could I get by with just letting it go and watching it to make sure it doesn't go up much more? Or should I take her off and reapply some paste and see if it goes down.
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May 22, 2012 02:29
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Animal posted:How is that possible? It's a really, really cool room and I have a few 120mm fans in the case I think. I undervolted it as much as I could as well, though I was using an older version of RealTemp to check temps, I think. I should probably re-check the next time I go home.
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May 22, 2012 02:33
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CancerStick posted:It's definitely on my list, mainly because I don't like having it blowing up and waiting for the inevitable fan to die again. Yeah you're fine just replacing the fan in the meantime, those temps are fine.
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May 22, 2012 15:26
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I tend to be obsessed with making my computer quiet, and I was a bit unsatisfied with the Noctua NH-D14. Even with the silencing adapters installed and the fans spinning at about 900rpm, it still seemed just a bit too loud to me. Essentially there was a soft whooshing sound that was a bit too noticeable for me. Anyway, I removed the two stock fans, and instead put in an 800rpm fan I had handy in the middle portion of the heatsink. It was significantly quieter, and my temperatures barely increased. The 3570K hits about 65C under load in a colder room at 4.5GHz with +0.07V and minimum LLC. Definitely something to try if you like your computer to be very, very quiet.
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May 22, 2012 22:13
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Hello, overclocking thread! I'm a great big gay baby and, while I've done my reading and read all through the OP about overclocking, I've never done it before and I'm still terrified of making things explode and/or ruining them forever, so I come to you to give me some advice on what exactly to do in my situation. Forgive me if I use the wrong terms, because until now I've thought of overclocking as something for EXXXTREME MAXX GAMERZ who MUST RUN EVERYTHING ON MAX GRAPHICS FOREVER, not something I'd need to do, so I haven't kept up.  I've got an AMD Phenom II X6 1045T 2.7GHz CPU, which isn't cutting it for what I'm trying to do, so I'd like to overclock it to the 3.3~3.4GHz range. Google tells me this is possible with the model. My motherboard is the stock ASUS CG1330 board that came with the box. However, I live in Hawaii and can't really afford to constantly have the AC on for the computer, and when said AC is off it gets...pretty hot doing anything taxing like playing a game, etc. Hot enough that touching the case near my graphics card with my hand kinda hurts. I've got three fans currently: the one in my PSU (Corsair Builder series 550W), my CPU heatsink, and the little one on my graphics card (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460). First question: If I pick up two Cooler Master R4-C2R-20AC-GP case fans (the price is a big draw) and stick them in appropriate places, mounting them as intake/exhaust as necessary, will that allow me to comfortably overclock to the range I'm looking for? Will my computer sound like a vacuum cleaner with that many fans going? Second question: I know my CPU is locked, so I can't just easy mode increase the clock multiplier until it works the way I want it to; it's stuck at 13.5. That means I have to fiddle around with voltage and the memory. (I have 8GB of fairly generic-looking RAM.) I don't trust myself with just experimenting with these values, since I have been known to do idiotic things when the life of my computer is on the line, so what are some safe things to put into the BIOS to increase performance? I won't be doing ANY of this until the fans get here, so there's some time. Here are some CPU-Z screenshots for you, so you know just what kind of specs you're dealing with here.     Thank you!
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May 24, 2012 08:50
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CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£158.50 @ CCL Computers) Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V/GEN3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£119.62 @ Scan.co.uk) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory (£39.64 @ Ebuyer) Hard Drive: Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£72.94 @ Ebuyer) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card (£181.97 @ Dabs) Case: Cooler Master Elite 335 Upgraded ATX Mid Tower Case (£32.87 @ Ebuyer) Power Supply: XFX 550W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£49.99 @ Amazon UK) Optical Drive: LG GH24NS70 OEM DVD/CD Writer Total: £655.53 I'm buying this system in a couple of days, but I'm just wondering whether it's worth opting for the OC edition of the Sapphire 7850 for an extra £10 or so. I don't know much about overclocking but I figure it can't be that hard, and worth it if I get a bit of extra performance out of it? I know I haven't added an aftermarket CPU cooler yet (was recommended a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo in the PC building thread so I'll probably go with that) so that will be in there too.
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May 24, 2012 10:25
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On the SSD, why not http://www.ebuyer.com/341349-kingston-120gb-v-200-ssd-2-5-sata-iii-svp200s3-120g They're not in stock yet, but when you do get one, you simply cannot beat that price.
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May 24, 2012 10:48
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movax posted:It's a really, really cool room and I have a few 120mm fans in the case I think. I undervolted it as much as I could as well, though I was using an older version of RealTemp to check temps, I think. I should probably re-check the next time I go home. As always with Zalman coolers, be careful not to slice your hand open if it needs to be re-seated
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May 24, 2012 10:49
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HalloKitty posted:On the SSD, why not Probably go with this actually, http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004W2JKZI/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=computers&psc=1 Mostly because it's in stock, but I've heard good things about this drive.
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May 24, 2012 11:48
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tomm posted:Probably go with this actually, Hell, why not. I guess I was just trying to steer you towards a larger SSD. That's a good price. On the 7850 front, that's the exact card I'd recommend at the moment, I doubt it's worth paying more for the OC edition since it's the same card. You could probably whack up some settings to get the same effect.
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May 24, 2012 11:50
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I have a Noctua D14 in the mail that accidentally got sent to the wrong sorting facility and my old computer finally died so I have the option of using the stock 2500K heatsink with my new computer just to get it running for a week, or not having a desktop computer. I still have some Arctic Silver 5 leftover from the last time I built PCs, should I clean off the stuff Intel ships with and use that, or has their stock solution improved to where it'll be a marginal difference? I'm not planning on overclocking much with the stock heatsink, but if I can get the 3.7ghz turbo frequency to be the baseline for all cores and not just single threaded applications I'd be happy.
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May 24, 2012 22:55
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craig588 posted:I have a Noctua D14 in the mail that accidentally got sent to the wrong sorting facility and my old computer finally died so I have the option of using the stock 2500K heatsink with my new computer just to get it running for a week, or not having a desktop computer. I still have some Arctic Silver 5 leftover from the last time I built PCs, should I clean off the stuff Intel ships with and use that, or has their stock solution improved to where it'll be a marginal difference? I'm not planning on overclocking much with the stock heatsink, but if I can get the 3.7ghz turbo frequency to be the baseline for all cores and not just single threaded applications I'd be happy. Doing anything that actually requires greater than stock performance that is going to just be awful in the meantime? I mean, not to discourage you, this is the overclocking thread and we generally don't think like that, take it to the moon when the NH-D14 arrives!... But in the meantime, you know, even non-K 2500s are really fast processors and unless there's a good reason ("tweaking is fun" is or is not a good reason mainly depending on your outlook, I suppose) I'd personally just stick the Intel heatsink on since it's already applied fine for the engineered application, and then not dick with it too much, it's a lot easier to clean off the Intel TIM than AS5 in my experience. Edit: Also, you can probably set it to turbo-by-all-cores safely with the Intel stock cooler since they're actually really conservative with their temperature... everything, recommendations. Remember, these processors and heat sinks are intended to keep working under extraordinarily laborious conditions, e.g. some dude who knows not very much about tech but was upsold by an enthusiastic customer service guy to a 2500K at Microcenter, but and never bothered to overclock it and sticks it in a mostly unventilated area that would kill an Xbox 360 dead... Agreed fucked around with this message at 23:21 on May 24, 2012 |
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May 24, 2012 23:18
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I decided to attach it as is, but It's a non issue now, the motherboard was DOA. I ordered a new one from Newegg this time instead of a weird Amazon 3rd party seller, hopefully I'll at least get a refund. I had a 3.6ghz q6800 before and I didn't want the move to the 2500 to feel like a step down. The CPU is probably still good actually, the chipset fan failed and caused the motherboard to get so hot it burned the PCB. Maybe I'll see if I have any other 775 boards laying about...
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May 25, 2012 04:45
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craig588 posted:I decided to attach it as is, but It's a non issue now, the motherboard was DOA. I ordered a new one from Newegg this time instead of a weird Amazon 3rd party seller, hopefully I'll at least get a refund. *I actually used a 920 for awhile in-between the two and the 2600K eats it for lunch in single-threaded tasks.
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May 25, 2012 05:09
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Last year I spent my money on a 256gb SSD, it isn't much faster than the Raptor RAID array it replaced, but it is completely silent. (And really quite a bit faster)
craig588 fucked around with this message at 23:40 on May 25, 2012 |
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May 25, 2012 06:01
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 Just wondering if anyone can tell me if this is a safe overclock. I hit 72C towards the end of the 5 run burn (on high) which is what I am worried a bit about. My vcore seems to be fine at 1.30 though. Any input from someone who knows more about overclocking than me? i5-2500k with hyper 212 with push pull fans overclocked to 4.2GHz.
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May 26, 2012 23:30
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Thom P. Tiers posted:
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May 26, 2012 23:38
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grumperfish posted:The 72C figure is the CPU package. Look at the core temperatures instead. You're fine so far, and cores can get up to ~80C in max IBT before you really need to be concerned as you won't see temperatures that high normally. Thanks. I just played a few games with this OC and got nowhere near those temperatures. Obviously the burn stresses the system a lot harder than video games. Is it necessary to "burn" the system overnight to ensure stability? Or am I good where I'm at? Currently doing a "Very High" burn for 10 runs, maxing out around 72C on a couple cores and 1.32 on the vcore.
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May 27, 2012 00:08
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It's actually not a very good idea to keep using IBT once you've got past the initial stability testing. "Burning in" components isn't a concept that makes sense. They're transistors. Tiny little ones. They burn out, not burn in. CPUs become less stable over time when over-volted significantly (you're plenty in the clear for that, by the way, so don't fret, you will most likely have the same life expectancy for your 4.2GHz overclocked 2500K as someone who bought a 2500 non-K). Switch to Prime95 for stability testing after you've passed the initial stress tests of IBT (for me, I consider that 10 runs of Very High, 2 runs of Maximum - that works your processor, the integrated memory controller, your RAM, and all the power delivery involved and is a pretty good quick stability check). Prime95 will run at safer temperatures and do complex workloads, but safe ones, that aren't intended to maximize the stress on your CPU but rather to sort of relentlessly check it over and over and over again until it comes back with a flawed calculation. It does so in a manner that is much more like ordinary calculations, and if you're at a safe voltage and have good heat removal, it should under no circumstances damage your CPU. IBT can damage your CPU. Those tiny parts rely on other tiny parts (called 'bumps') to supply power, or current, or transfer information... And everything has a point at which you've overworked it and it's in danger of failing. IBT is for initial, quick evaluation. Prolonged usage is a poor idea. I think this is something that OCCT guys really miss the mark on with their long-term Linpack-based testing. You don't get anything more useful from trying to cook your components, stability can be assessed much more safely without long-term degradation symptoms showing up earlier because of over-stressing the hundreds of millions of 32nm transistors (in Sandy Bridge, anyway). People running extraordinary cooling and voltages past 1.4V who use excessive hardcore stress testing to "prove" their system are probably going to get to "enjoy" electromigration a hell of a lot earlier than the rest of us.
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May 27, 2012 01:13
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Agreed posted:It's actually not a very good idea to keep using IBT once you've got past the initial stability testing. "Burning in" components isn't a concept that makes sense. They're transistors. Tiny little ones. They burn out, not burn in. CPUs become less stable over time when over-volted significantly (you're plenty in the clear for that, by the way, so don't fret, you will most likely have the same life expectancy for your 4.2GHz overclocked 2500K as someone who bought a 2500 non-K). Thanks so much for this extremely informative post.
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May 27, 2012 02:06
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Panic! at Nabisco posted:Hello, overclocking thread! I'm a great big gay baby and, while I've done my reading and read all through the OP about overclocking, I've never done it before and I'm still terrified of making things explode and/or ruining them forever, so I come to you to give me some advice on what exactly to do in my situation. Forgive me if I use the wrong terms, because until now I've thought of overclocking as something for EXXXTREME MAXX GAMERZ who MUST RUN EVERYTHING ON MAX GRAPHICS FOREVER, not something I'd need to do, so I haven't kept up. First, the case fans should be okay - it all depends on airflow and noise, usually higher RPM fans will generate a fair bit of noise anyways and those push 69CFM @ max, so they might get a tad on the noisy side. I've got a few Cooler Master fans in my case that push around half the CFM that those fans do, and they're pretty quiet (albeit I don't live in Hawaii, so I don't need to have anything high power to keep things cool). I think you'll be alright, you'll just have to experiment with the fan setup to get an optimal push-pull configuration that keeps your parts fairly cool. So, in short, those fans have a good chance of making your system pretty loud, but they'll cool adequately if you decide on them (personally, I'd shop around and Google a few review sites, you can usually find decent customer reviews and other mainstream sites that test all sorts of PC hardware, including fans). Second, since it's your first time overclocking, take baby steps - don't jump in and start jacking up volts or changing values too extremely. I posted earlier and have a Phenom II x4 setup running smoothly right now but it took a bit of time and tweaking and research to figure out what to change, and what effect it had overall not just on the CPU and memory, but the other components. A good first step is to set your CPU and FSB to "manual" in the BIOS, typically under an Advanced tweaking menu, and start by seeing what you can do with your HT/FSB. I'd say try lowering the CPU multiplier from it's default to a lower number, say maybe 10x to start, then gradually increase your FSB values and test - 5Mhz increments is probably a safe start for bumping up. Your default right now is going to be a 13.5x multiplier with a 200Mhz FSB value, and I believe a 10x HT Link value. You can even adjust ratios to run your RAM at a lower or higher speed, I'd suggest trying to run as close to default values as possible to begin with since there's no telling how well it'll work at higher speeds. For example: My system has a Phenom II x4 820, stock speed of 2.8Ghz (200Mhz x 14 multi) with a 2Ghz HT Link. I tweaked with the multi and FSB values, and have the system running at 310 FSB with a 12x multi, which gave a nice bump to 3.72Ghz. I did that with small steps, seeing what the max FSB was that I could achieve, with the max CPU multiplier, and when it was stable I Prime tested the gently caress out of it. Granted, I had to tweak things a bit but with those values, I have my DDR3 1600 running at 1650, HT Link bumped to 2170Mhz and had to give a bit more juice to keep stable (1.46v on the CPU core, bumped the NB/HT volts by .25v each and left the RAM at stock). Everything stays relatively cool, Prime testing heats up the processor in the low to mid 60's range but it idles at or below 30ºC most of the time with an aftermarket heatsink. Helps that my case has plenty of room and airflow, using an Antec 300 with all fan slots full (2 front intake, 1 side intake, rear and top exhaust) and close to balanced flow-wise. I'd say you could easily reach what you're aiming for with some tweaking, I don't think you'll need much boost in voltage (if any) but the main thing will be heat, since those 6 core CPUs tend to get a bit toasty when stressed. Power looks good but if you plan to add or upgrade any other components (storage, video card, etc.) I'd recommend looking at a bigger power supply. That probably won't be for a while in your case, but something to keep in mind if you plan to keep your current system for a while and want to add or swap parts.
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May 27, 2012 03:56
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I've got an i5 3570K underneath a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, all nicely slapped onto an Asus P8Z77-V LX. I followed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMZoWOpry40 this video, setting my CPU multiplier to 42 and changing the voltages to the ones suggested in the video, if the options are available in my settings. I get to 4.2GHz ok, but HWMOnitor shows my CPU temp pushing 92 degrees. Should I reduce voltage, multiplier or both?
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May 27, 2012 20:17
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Turn the voltage down. 1.350V is waaaaaaaay too much for Ivy Bridge. At 4.2 GHz, you probably don't need to be much above stock (~1.05V).
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May 27, 2012 20:20
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Factory Factory posted:Turn the voltage down. 1.350V is waaaaaaaay too much for Ivy Bridge. At 4.2 GHz, you probably don't need to be much above stock (~1.05V). Roger that. Keep all the other settings the same then? Also, please tell me I haven't fried my processor. WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 20:41 on May 27, 2012 |
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May 27, 2012 20:38
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If it works, it's not fried. I'll be honest, other than scrubbing to find the voltage setting used, I didn't watch that video.
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May 27, 2012 20:53
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Factory Factory posted:If it works, it's not fried. No worries. I take it the "Performance" option on the initial UEFI screen isn't going to help with overclocking?
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May 27, 2012 21:07
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The Easy Mode screen? There's pretty much nothing of value there once you're comfortable in the Advanced mode setup. I honestly don't even know what things on it are graphics and what are buttons because it's just not used once you start tweaking things in Advanced.
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May 27, 2012 21:13
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Thom P. Tiers posted:
Huh. So the package temperature is higher than the core temps here... On my 3750K it's the other way round, my core temps are always higher than the package temp. Does this support the notion that the heat transfer into the IHS sucks on Ivy Bridge?.
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May 28, 2012 10:50
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Factory Factory posted:The Easy Mode screen? There's pretty much nothing of value there once you're comfortable in the Advanced mode setup. I honestly don't even know what things on it are graphics and what are buttons because it's just not used once you start tweaking things in Advanced. Is it possible I've done any damage to the chip with that 1.3v overclock from yesterday?
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May 28, 2012 11:23
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Is it possible I've done any damage to the chip with that 1.3v overclock from yesterday? Yes, but in the way you would damage your body by smoking a cigarette rather than the way you would by hitting yourself with a brick. You've brought the expiration date a little closer. By how much we can't say. Almost definitely, it's still the case that you'll get tired of the machine before the processor poops out, so its useful lifetime is probably not affected.
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May 28, 2012 13:31
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Factory Factory posted:Yes, but in the way you would damage your body by smoking a cigarette rather than the way you would by hitting yourself with a brick. You've brought the expiration date a little closer. gently caress, I thought processors had failsafes in to cut out or crash to prevent damage. I'd intending to use this machine for about 5 years. WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 17:40 on May 28, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 17:32
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On heat, yes, but voltage is controlled by the motherboard. 1) Relax. Unless you've been running the system like that for a month, you probably have not meaningfully impacted the expected life of the chip. 2) Lesson to learn: Research your parts. Don't take settings from a YouTube video for a different chip. Better to understand some and take a lesser overclock than understand nothing and set something incorrectly.
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May 28, 2012 17:47
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Factory Factory posted:On heat, yes, but voltage is controlled by the motherboard. No no I had it running like that for 20 minutes, tops. I think that unless I can find a video like that for the precise mobo and CPU, I'll give overclocking a miss.
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May 28, 2012 18:20
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*gestures vaguely in direction of OP*
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May 28, 2012 18:25
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WattsvilleBlues posted:No no I had it running like that for 20 minutes, tops. I think that unless I can find a video like that for the precise mobo and CPU, I'll give overclocking a miss. Even individual CPUs of the same model will vary. Overclocking is something you should learn to do (by reading the OP maybe) rather than just copying a video.
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May 28, 2012 19:22
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I ended up a bit cross-eyed reading the OP, hence the search for a video. Think I'll maybe leave this OC business for a while at least - on an SSD, the 3570 performs well anyway.
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May 28, 2012 20:59
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