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Mods namechange to Olde Weird Pro Tip, please As long as you didnt order the Edge 2, the Edge should bolt right up to the stock DRZ mount points. Did you order it from wheeling cycle?
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May 24, 2012 16:15
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Mods namechange to Olde Weird Pro Tip, please I got it from Thumpertalk, since I wanted some other stuff from them as well. Is that good? 
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May 24, 2012 16:23
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Resource posted:I got it from Thumpertalk, since I wanted some other stuff from them as well. Is that good? Thats fine, I was just wondering. The original Edge has mounting points to mount right up to all the non-E DRZ's. The Edge 2 is universal and the one that works on the E's
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May 24, 2012 16:37
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Skreemer posted:I have a 2002 Bandit 600 sitting in my garage as well. If you ever have to clean the carbs, grow a 3rd arm/hand or find a buddy that can help you out. I hate "push/pull" throttle cables. One cable is always in the center of the carb and a complete paint to get to. I have push/pull cables on my bike, but it's not a big deal to get the carbs on and off. v0v
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May 24, 2012 17:24
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I did a leakdown test, hoping to find what's causing this idle surge. What do you mean by "idle surge"? Does it reset to higher RPMs when the bike warms up? Or does it rev up randomly while idling. Saw your blog post with the darkish plugs, but I would still wager on an air-leak or lean jetting/mixture problem, since those are notorious for idle surges and hanging.
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May 24, 2012 17:27
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Tamir Lenk posted:What do you mean by "idle surge"? Does it reset to higher RPMs when the bike warms up? Or does it rev up randomly while idling. It revs up randomly when idling, hangs there and drops. I Can get it to hang and stay if I play with the sync screws. I still suspect an intake runner leak despite the evidence against it.
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May 24, 2012 17:51
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Could always wrap the runners in hella duct tape. 
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May 24, 2012 17:55
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Splizwarf posted:Could always wrap the runners in hella duct tape. ha I don't think it's a leak within the runners or I would have spotted it. It's a boot to carb leak most likely. Also that duct tape would melt.
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May 24, 2012 18:13
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:ha I don't think it's a leak within the runners or I would have spotted it. It's a boot to carb leak most likely. I, too, recently found a hairline crack in my intake boot. One ghetto test that might help. Warm the bike up riding until you encounter the idle surge/hang. Then see if the carb rack has any play in it, and jiggle it a bit. If the idle reacts to that, you have found the culprit - or at least its whereabouts.
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May 24, 2012 19:26
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Tamir Lenk posted:I, too, recently found a hairline crack in my intake boot. One ghetto test that might help. Warm the bike up riding until you encounter the idle surge/hang. Then see if the carb rack has any play in it, and jiggle it a bit. If the idle reacts to that, you have found the culprit - or at least its whereabouts. The carbs on the GL don't work exactly like that. they're pretty bolted in place, and don't wiggle really. I did try lifting a bit with a crowbar and got nothing. Propane, carb spray, etc all yielded nothing.
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May 24, 2012 20:16
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Please don't try to run that stator. At best, it MIGHT not start a fire. It's cool, I've just disconnected the stator for now. Pulled the headlight fuse to conserve battery for the few trips I need to make (most notably picking up the new stator).
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May 24, 2012 21:06
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:They stated specifically that it's not exactly the same thing as an automotive fuel tank. So the results aren't as extreme, but the point is that Ethanol Gas is more hydroscopic than regular gas. So it won't take a year for that gas to go bad, more like a month. Dumb question, but does higher octane gas go "bad" faster than lower octane? I don't completely understands why/how gas goes bad, but I've cleaned enough carbs to know what old gas smells like.
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May 25, 2012 06:28
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velocross posted:Dumb question, but does higher octane gas go "bad" faster than lower octane? I don't completely understands why/how gas goes bad, but I've cleaned enough carbs to know what old gas smells like. It depends on how the High Octane is achieved. If they add Ethanol to raise the Knock Index than presumably, yes it might. However I'm pretty sure that's not entirely how most modern fuels are formulated so probably not.
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May 25, 2012 14:44
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You could have just said "I don't know"
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May 25, 2012 16:21
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nsaP posted:You could have just said "I don't know" I could have also said lmgtfy If you want a real answer, please specify a manufacturer/refinery/city+state/gas station barometric pressure, temperature, humidity, and octane rating, as all of these are factors in determining just how or why and when it would "go bad". The theory behind why Higher Octane gas goes bad faster is that the more volatile "explosive" chemicals evaporate leaving behind heavier and less volatile chemicals. This is just one of many reasons gas "goes bad". The others include water impregnation, oxidation, and a bunch of other stuff I could figure out with some google-fu.
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May 25, 2012 17:51
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:The theory behind why Higher Octane gas goes bad faster is that the more volatile "explosive" chemicals evaporate leaving behind heavier and less volatile chemicals. That's a poor theory, because pure isooctane has a higher boiling point and lower vapor pressure than any of its isomers 
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May 25, 2012 17:57
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gently caress I wish I still remember my organic chemistry, all I remember is that everything (slowly) breaks down into more simpler and less energetic molecules and poo poo.
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May 25, 2012 18:39
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Sagebrush posted:That's a poor theory, because pure isooctane has a higher boiling point and lower vapor pressure than any of its isomers I also explained it very poorly so that's mostly my fault, but I also don't understand the reasoning of this explanation. I'm just parroting what I've been told. (hence the "Theory" qualifier.) I agree I think that reason alone is not a good explanation. Plus if you were (by some godly science-defying act) left with only heptane you would just get pre-detonation or knocking, not the things that are characteristic of "bad gas", such as difficulty starting, stalling, and gummed up fuel lines. Besides if you think about it... the gas is in a sealed container, wouldn't the lighter vapors condense and still return to the fuel mix? Besides all the heptane/isooctane/isomers... reasoning, there are other anti-knock agents that are added (for example, 'lead') that influences the Octane rating. Because of these other agents you can't say that, "because a gas has a higher octane, it will go bad faster." It's not the octane rating, it's the formulation of the fuel, and environmental factors, that determines it's lifespan. ElMaligno posted:gently caress I wish I still remember my organic chemistry, all I remember is that everything (slowly) breaks down into more simpler and less energetic molecules and poo poo. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 18:42 on May 25, 2012 |
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May 25, 2012 18:39
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Well, I noticed oil on my boot after riding to work today, and found out there's oil blowing past the filler cap. I took the cap off, and the o-ring disintegrated. I found another o-ring that was close, but not close enough. That not-close-enough o-ring and some RTV got me to the parts place to get the Genuine Suzuki Oil Filler Cap O-Ring, $2. Not much oil was lost, but apparently oil mist is much, much grimier than other kinds of oil spillage, as the bike is completely, utterly, filthy from dust from the swingarm pivot back.
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May 25, 2012 20:54
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Today I went to bleed the clutch on my VFR. I did it. Or I thought I did. It still doesn't clutch right. But at least it fires up without an issue. I'm going to do it again tomorrow, hoping I just didn't get all the air out or something.
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May 25, 2012 21:12
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Endless Mike posted:Today I went to bleed the clutch on my VFR. I did it. Or I thought I did. It still doesn't clutch right. But at least it fires up without an issue. I'm going to do it again tomorrow, hoping I just didn't get all the air out or something. Does the clutch function okay but the lever is just soft?
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May 25, 2012 21:14
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When I first found there was a problem, it would clutch properly if I pulled the lever all the way in. Now it doesn't even do that, as far as I can tell. Trying to drop it into first just kills the bike.
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May 25, 2012 21:24
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Endless Mike posted:When I first found there was a problem, it would clutch properly if I pulled the lever all the way in. Now it doesn't even do that, as far as I can tell. Trying to drop it into first just kills the bike. I had this problem right after changing a clutch cable because the clutch release was not fully in position after I installed the new cable. The clutch (albeit a cable not hydro) felt soft as crap. You could idle it in neutral fine, but if you pulled the clutch and tried to drop into first, it stalled. I tracked back down the cable, and the clutch release looked to be in place. Then I went to tighten it more and realized that it hadn't really seated properly, so the clutch basically did nothing. Happily, I just had to loosen the locknut and press the release into the correct position. To the extent that your bleeding the line involved adjusting the clutch release end, you might have a similar issue to check and fix. HTH Edit (with pictures FWIW) - Here is the fiche for the parts I ran into (which will totally differ from your VFR).  No. 7 in the fiche is a lever that you can adjust for clutch cable tension. I had to remove it to install a fresh cable. When I put it back together, it did not seat fully onto it's mate (No. 6). So the clutch cable would move nice and easy because it wasn't really moving the clutch. Shifting in and out of 1st without the engine running is easy with no clutch. So it felt like it was shifting, except that once the engine was running in N, dropping it into 1st happened with no real clutch and stalled out. If you also had to fiddle with the business end of the clutch line, it may not be fully engaged now, causing the stalling problem. Tamir Lenk fucked around with this message at 21:44 on May 25, 2012 |
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May 25, 2012 21:37
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Endless Mike posted:When I first found there was a problem, it would clutch properly if I pulled the lever all the way in. Now it doesn't even do that, as far as I can tell. Trying to drop it into first just kills the bike. Mmmm without seeing it I'd say you might have a master/slave cylinder leak. Or possibly a leak at the cylinder. Here's a couple threads on the issue: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377641 http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=31669.0 The DTT link is about the conversion but there's good info/pics there.
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May 25, 2012 21:52
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Like I said, I'm going to give it another go (rather than watch old dudes on Harleys) and go from there. I really just want to sell the damned thing.
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May 25, 2012 21:58
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Olde Weird Tip posted:On my B12 you could get the rack of carbs out of the engine before you had to take the throttle cables off, if you took them out of the right side of the bike. Two of the four will stick out the side and then you can get your hand in there to get the cables out. I'm mainly spoiled by the fact my first bike was an '83 GS550 with no airbox. Carbs out adjusted and back in again was literally a 20 - 25 minute job... And the new bandit 1250 has fuel injection.
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May 26, 2012 05:46
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And one day you will own a bike that isn't a boring piece of poo poo.
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May 26, 2012 08:39
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Skreemer posted:Two of the four will stick out the side and then you can get your hand in there to get the cables out. You can get them all out if you start by removing the throttle grip from the handlebar.
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May 26, 2012 09:16
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n8r posted:And one day you will own a bike that isn't a boring piece of poo poo. 
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May 26, 2012 10:07
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Picked up some new tires for my ride, and I have been riding the absolute crap out of it the last few days. I loved pilot power 2cts on my other bikes, and it looks like I'm also going to love the pilot road 2s as well. Couldn't be any happier with the b-king. Heres a decently scenic, albeit not particularly curvy, route for anyone interested. I didn't take any pictures, though. I never think to do it  https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=209791999443773244015.0004c0d2f6cd1d4bf9905&msa=0 This is a picture that someone else took at our ruff ryders (i.e. college students) bike night. The real star of the picture is that 675s beautiful exhaust. 
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May 26, 2012 18:18
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Busy day working on the track SV trying to prep it for the track Memorial Day... -New brake pads -flushed brake fluid -mounted brakes -new rear sets (thanks Walkin Dude) -cleaned fuel tank -mounted clip-ons -adjusted clutch, new cable -mounted engine and exhaust -new oil/filter -wrapped and put wiring in place -mounted tail section -mounted wheels, put tires on Tuesday -new brake, vacuum and fuel lines -mounted carbs, new throttle cables Then went to start it and found out the clutch push rod seal is shot  The joy of buying a bike in boxes. Looks like another track day riding like a dong on the CRF.Also messed around on the trials bike.
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May 27, 2012 00:27
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n8r posted:And one day you will own a bike that isn't a boring piece of poo poo. Do you even ride anything anymore or do you just come here to poo poo on other peoples bikes Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 15:50 on May 28, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 15:47
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Do you even ride anything anymore or do you just come here to poo poo on other peoples bikes As far as I know n8r rides an RD and thus have every right to poo poo on other peoples bikes 
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May 28, 2012 15:58
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1971 Yamaha R5 that I just wasted $$ for motocarrera pipes and rearsets. Also just swapped out my Falco for a 2000.5 RSVR. This was a terrible decision but the bike is so pretty and has ohlins bling.
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May 28, 2012 16:17
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 +  =  Cleaned and lubed the chain, along with cleaning and polishing the rest of the bike including wheel rims. I guess the last owner never cleaned the sprocket and stuff connecting to it. The underside of the chain guard was horrible. The sprocket and the thing connecting it to the wheel was black, now its silver.
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May 28, 2012 22:12
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I'm trying to think of a chain cleaning procedure where doing it in your living room wouldn't be a disastrous idea.
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May 29, 2012 16:12
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Legerdemain posted:I'm trying to think of a chain cleaning procedure where doing it in your living room wouldn't be a disastrous idea. Remove chain from bike outside, put it in a sealed tupperware container full of paint thinner, bring into your living room, shake around to clean it, go back outside to re-mount and re-lube. e: don't do this to o-ring chains
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May 29, 2012 17:54
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Finally figured out my weird off and on idle problem. There was just a tiny bit of residue on one of the slides that would cause it to periodically not close or open all the way. Pulled the slides and cleaned the gently caress out of them, then lubed the slide tubes with a bit of 3-1 oil. Buttoned it up and my baby screams like Jon Benet - turn your back for a second, and she's gone! Of course, it runs great just as the temps get into the high 90's, but I got some riding in the morning before it really heated up. During the hot days of the long weekend, I managed to finally de-rust that loving tank.    GEAUX TIGERS!
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May 29, 2012 17:56
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Tamir Lenk posted:Finally figured out my weird off and on idle problem. There was just a tiny bit of residue on one of the slides that would cause it to periodically not close or open all the way. Pulled the slides and cleaned the gently caress out of them, then lubed the slide tubes with a bit of 3-1 oil.
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May 29, 2012 17:58
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| # ? May 22, 2024 10:02 |
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kenny powerzzz posted:Man I've been drooling over your bike on the gsresourses for awhile. Oh Hai, GSR buddy.
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May 29, 2012 18:02
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