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There are two major things wrong in this photo.  A) Two identical age subframes... one from Florida, one from NY/CT. gently caress salt. B) The DUI driver who hit the miata I bought for $500 managed to put a HUGE dent in the subframe. Holy hell. Luckily my replacement subframe ($85 shipped on ebay!!) bolted right on which is awesome. Should be driveable tomorrow!!
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May 27, 2012 04:44
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Put a sparco sprint V in - it fits really well, I'm not going to have any trouble with the hard top latches when it comes time to use it. What a bitch to install on the stock sliders though, the only way I'm taking the sliders off the seat is if I'm going to mount it fixed to the floor, because that was the worst part. I think I'm about 1-2" lower overall. I don't have any measurements/pictures to confirm, other than needing to adjust my mirrors. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
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May 27, 2012 21:02
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I just replaced my rotors and pads this weekend, butt I'm not convinced i did the adjustment on the rear calipers correctly... Even when i screwed the hex key all the way in i couldn't really tell if it made contact with the rotor, so i just adjusted it so that the parking brake seemed to engage at the right height. I forgot to do it at first and noticed that i could pull the lever all the way up and have it barely engage. On the bright side i can get to it while the car is on the ground so if i have issues it'll be easy to try again!
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May 28, 2012 01:09
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Viper915 posted:I just replaced my rotors and pads this weekend, butt I'm not convinced i did the adjustment on the rear calipers correctly... Even when i screwed the hex key all the way in i couldn't really tell if it made contact with the rotor, so i just adjusted it so that the parking brake seemed to engage at the right height. I forgot to do it at first and noticed that i could pull the lever all the way up and have it barely engage. On the bright side i can get to it while the car is on the ground so if i have issues it'll be easy to try again! On mine I just adjusted the rear brake until I couldn't rotate the rotor by hand any more, then backed off by 1/4 turn.
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May 28, 2012 01:23
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Sadi posted:On mine I just adjusted the rear brake until I couldn't rotate the rotor by hand any more, then backed off by 1/4 turn. That's the thing though... I adjusted it until it started doing the clicking thing to tell you you've turned it as far as it will go (and keeps rotating while it keeps clicking) and i still had no problem rotating the rotor. After adjusting by brake lever height, though, i can stop the car with the e brake and it holds the rotor while parked. It doesn't sound like it's dragging, so i guess I'm ok?
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May 28, 2012 01:42
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Let's talk about my idle That car runs smoothly, has no power issues and does idle higher when it's cold. When it's warmed up it drops so low it's almost not on the gauge, but the oil pressure keeps up and the only thing that seems to happen is it's easy to stall if you're not paying attention. Do you think it's fine to let it be or should I fix it? I really like how stealthy it is when it's sitting still, but that's not worth it if it's doing damage to the engine. This is on a 94 with the HLAs and no tapping issues come up.
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May 28, 2012 04:19
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Change the plugs and wires if you haven't already first.
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May 28, 2012 04:39
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Oh yeah, it's all tuned up, I just need to clean the EGR valve and/or the IAC valve and/or the throttle plate. I just want to know if it's doing damage to the engine to idle so low, I like it like that, but fixing it would be pretty trivial.
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May 28, 2012 05:00
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I kind of doubt the accuracy of that tach.
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May 28, 2012 09:14
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Yeah, I'm no expert by any means, but if it really did idle at like 50rpm, I don't think it would be either smooth or stealthy.
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May 28, 2012 09:50
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revmoo posted:I kind of doubt the accuracy of that tach. That actually makes a lot of sense. Is there a good way to pull RPM from the OBD1 system? I know expensive timing lights have an RPM readout, but if there's a signal I could read from one of those cheap OBD scanners I'd have no problem picking one up.
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May 28, 2012 14:21
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If it's OBD2, yes. I'd say if it sounds smooth and normal then you can assume it's not idling at 50rpm. I'm guessing there's a loose connection somewhere. Check your grounds. First check alternator ground, then check the ECU and engine block grounds. If those all check out, check the plug on the back of your gauge cluster. My understanding of tach signals is that they're usually a pulsed a/c type of current and are sensitive to grounding issues.
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May 28, 2012 15:17
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The tach is driven by the 4 pin coilpack in his car (1994).
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May 28, 2012 17:20
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What's a good low budget but not poo poo shock for an NA6? I want to keep it in E-stock so I'm keeping the stock springs, would the koni STR be any good, or should I bump up to the more expensive koni spots or bilsteins or other? I don't run slicks so I'm not very hard core in e-stock, and mostly street driven. Amazingly, had my wheels off and found the build date on the shocks, original from 1990 and not blown out! They actually still work ok at 160k. Also did a this (plistidip) to my daisies:  Results look pretty good for the amount of effort.
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May 28, 2012 21:27
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Koni yellows are the gimmie autox shock. Whether or not you want to "adjust" them depends on how hardcore you are and how much $$ you want to spend.
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May 28, 2012 21:35
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Yeah, I know the yellows are the go-to, just curious if the STR.T (what a stupid name) would really be much worse on the stock springs. They are half the price. I should probably just man up and get the yellows.
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May 28, 2012 21:42
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I've had good luck with my Tokico Illuminas. The adjusters are on the shock tops which means they don't suffer from the seizing that the KYB AGXes do. I set mine one setting stiffer f/r at autocross. No idea if it helps me go faster. Does make the car respond a hair faster. This is on stock springs.
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May 28, 2012 21:44
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Scored some lightly used illuminas at STR.T prices, so that solves that.
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May 28, 2012 23:20
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craig588 posted:Let's talk about my idle My 95 has the same issue, it's a pretty common problem. I'm on my phone but google around for tach misreading. At a stop my car usually reads 0 but it is very obviously not anywhere close. Sometimes when I watch it I can see it jump up around 1k and drop right back to 0.
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May 29, 2012 01:59
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I did a foamectomy on my driver's seat today. Easily the best $0 I've ever spent on the car. The bolsters actually work now. Plus, I think I gained enough headroom that I feel OK installing a roll bar.
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May 29, 2012 08:30
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See if you can spot the two problems in this photo.
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May 29, 2012 13:50
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The huge rear end bend in the subframe is one of them. Missing/misplaced hardline?
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May 29, 2012 14:00
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Just how big a deal is getting the LSD? I've been casually looking for months and haven't seen much come up as far as a low(ish) mileage NA. Now I've got a line on a 115k 97, Timing belt/Water Pump/Plugs/etc all done in the last 10k miles, glass window, everything looks good, except that its a Touring Package, which doesn't have the LSD or a few of the other amenities. If I were looking for a fun summer car with the possibility of trying autocross down the line how much should I focus on getting a LSD?
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May 29, 2012 14:29
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Unless you are really looking for all you can get out of your car, it's not that big of a deal.
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May 29, 2012 14:42
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Mutar posted:Just how big a deal is getting the LSD? I've been casually looking for months and haven't seen much come up as far as a low(ish) mileage NA. Now I've got a line on a 115k 97, Timing belt/Water Pump/Plugs/etc all done in the last 10k miles, glass window, everything looks good, except that its a Touring Package, which doesn't have the LSD or a few of the other amenities. If I were looking for a fun summer car with the possibility of trying autocross down the line how much should I focus on getting a LSD? If you don't have any luck I have a spare complete 1.8 Torsen setup for sale  (I'm in Philly)Phone posted:The huge rear end bend in the subframe is one of them. Missing/misplaced hardline? Ha. Yup. The other one is the rust. Thankfully the spare subframe (same age, except from FL for $80 on ebay) bolted right up so looks like I'll have it together this week. This is for the wrecked miata I bought from another goon for $500. (before) 
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May 29, 2012 15:00
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Just out of curiosity - how much for the LSD? I'm in Minnesota but I might be driving out to see family in NY later this summer, so I might be able to swing by...
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May 29, 2012 15:55
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How hard it is to replace the entire ECU wiring harness on a '99? After looking at the rats nest that is the result of the PO installing a Megasquirt, I'm hesitant to want to deal with trying to splice everything back together.
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May 29, 2012 16:56
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Mutar posted:Just out of curiosity - how much for the LSD? I'm in Minnesota but I might be driving out to see family in NY later this summer, so I might be able to swing by... I'd sell ya the entire setup (axles, driveshafts, knuckles, etc) for $500. I think the going rate is around 8-900? Anybody else interested?
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May 29, 2012 17:52
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The left rear caliper on my NA has started sticking, it's not jammed on but I can hear a pad rubbing across the disk on that side and 1st gear is suddenly a better handbrake than the actual handbrake. On a scale of 1-10, how much pain am I in for getting the caliper off the slide pins on a British car with minimal PO maintenance done to it? I'm trying to guess if I should throw in the towel before even starting or what. 
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May 29, 2012 18:12
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Worst case scenario is a new caliper. In the grand scheme of things, it isn't all that expensive and might be easier than trying to service a well used unit.
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May 29, 2012 19:31
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If you wind up needing a new caliper, I highly recommend getting a "semi-loaded" caliper. This means that it comes with the bracket already attached to the caliper itself, so instead of having to deal with trying to get the bracket off of the old one, it's 2 bolts on/off and the brake line.
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May 29, 2012 22:07
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Okay, my only problem is this is my only car so I'm inclined to not gently caress it up and my last excursion with brakes left my old car off the road for a week.  Cheers for the tip about the bracket, I'll see how much I can get a caliper & bracket combo for.
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May 29, 2012 22:59
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For those running 14" wheels, what tire size are you using? Need new skins for my stock NA
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May 30, 2012 17:37
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195/60R14 is a little outside of stock, but you can get Dunlop Star Specs (yay).
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May 30, 2012 18:19
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I just sent a feeler out on a $600 1997 Miata "for parts" (because it has a CEL). I'm looking for a project anyway so this is a perfect chance. The problem is it's automatic. How involved is an auto-manual conversion in a Miata? I've done it several times in Fox Body Mustangs and I'm comfortable with a project at that level. $600 is a screaming deal for this car. Edit: Found this for future reference Going to attempt to pick this up at this price. Here's hoping the other Craigslist scavengers don't get to the car first. Noise Complaint fucked around with this message at 18:57 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 18:43
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Looks like I have been plagued with code PO421. This only showed up after I installed a temporary heat shield on the stock exhaust. I am going to try cleaning the intake/egr/remove the heat shield/and run some fuel system cleaner through it this weekend with a tank of premium. Worst case, I will order a header. 
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May 30, 2012 19:00
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I've got a seized caliper on my '91 and while looking at diagrams on how everything comes apart I'm a little confused why some only show one spring and others show two. I'm also putting on new pads while I'm at it, the front had two springs per side but the clip and spring kit I picked up for the rear only has two springs. Am i taking crazy pills for thinking there should be two per side on the back as well?
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May 30, 2012 19:03
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SiB posted:For those running 14" wheels, what tire size are you using? Need new skins for my stock NA Dunlop Star Spec. Phone posted:195/60R14 is a little outside of stock, but you can get Dunlop Star Specs (yay). They sell 185/60/14 as well... I run them.
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May 30, 2012 21:58
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Noise Complaint posted:I just sent a feeler out on a $600 1997 Miata "for parts" (because it has a CEL). I'm looking for a project anyway so this is a perfect chance. The problem is it's automatic. I'd probably part the car out and use the profits to fund a decent mantran miata.
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May 30, 2012 22:51
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Noise Complaint posted:How involved is an auto-manual conversion in a Miata? I've done it several times in Fox Body Mustangs and I'm comfortable with a project at that level. $600 is a screaming deal for this car. I did it once with help and I'd never do it again. Just a pain in the rear end, and there's too many manual Miatas out there to bother IMO.
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May 31, 2012 05:12
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