|
atomicthumbs posted:I'm looking for a Volvo wagon to drive until it dies or I can afford a Lexus LS400. What should I look for in terms of a 200- or 700-series that'll be cheap and preferably have airbags? Turbo would be cool, but is optional. Any Volvo from 1990 on will have a driver's side airbag for sure-I think some 740/760s got them earlier than that, but I don't know when exactly. I'd honestly recommend trying to find a 940 turbo wagon if you want an RWD Volvo. The '93-'95 have the best engines and interior appointments of the redblock cars, and they don't rust much if at all. The only thing that's disappointing if you're an enthusiast is that they're all automatics-the '92 740 was the last RWD turbo car with a manual option in the US. As for 240s and 740s, you have to assess them on a case-by-case basis. Affordable examples in nice shape have pretty well dried up, but if you're lucky you can still get a decent one for $2K or less. Almost all of them need to have neglected maintenance taken care of, so budget for that-fortunately, there are very few tasks that can't be done in a couple hours using basic hand tools. Where are you located?
|
#
?
May 3, 2012 05:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 08:28 |
|
|
zundfolge posted:Where are you located? I'm in the Bay Area. There seem to be quite a few examples on Craigslist of decent 940s, 740s, and 240s, but I was looking for something cheaper that I'd feel better about abusing (hence why I'd rather have a 200 or 700 than a 900). My family has a 1984 240 sedan in what may or may not be semi-running order, but the interior is wrecked (foam's crumbly and half-missing, cloth looks like a mountain lion went at it, sunroof has a piece of wood stuck into the crank mechanism to keep it shut or something), the power steering pump is out, it may need a new alternator, and also any additional problems that have accumulated after being left sitting for the better part of a decade. Of course, my father is encouraging me to fix it up, as I could have it running for $800. 
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2012 06:08
|
|
|
900 wagons are identical to 700 wagons. The only major difference in the sedan was the trunklid height, the rest of the car was the same on those too.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2012 07:26
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:Of course, my father is encouraging me to fix it up, as I could have it running for $800. Well, if you're feeling masochistic...  Any 240 or 740 newer than '88 should be plenty reliable. Just budget a few hundred bucks to take care of deferred maintenance and you'll be golden.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2012 06:53
|
|
|
So I have a major coolant leak coming from the turbo on my 96 850 R. I can't see exactly where it's coming from other than the turbo. What is in store for me? Does anyone have a picture that can make it a bit clearer for me when I try to find this hose or whatever it is?
|
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2012 07:57
|
|
|
I don't have a pic, but there are two hardlines that attach to the turbo with banjo bolts and two hoses that connect the turbo to a coolant pipe that runs parallel to the back side of the engine. I'd bet that one of the hoses has sprung a leak.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2012 22:19
|
|
|
I guess I won't really be able til see it until I'm under the car. In other news, I've decided that I'm going to replace the evaporator. I have the dash halfway apart already after dealing with the ECC servos. Only thing left is the steering wheel, so I may as well go for it. I hope the compressor is fine.
|
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2012 01:17
|
|
|
I have nailed 6 pigeons in a month in my v70, I can't help but feel natural selection is going to throw a 2000kg pigeon at me soon.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 07:21
|
|
|
astrollinthepork posted:I guess I won't really be able til see it until I'm under the car. In other news, I've decided that I'm going to replace the evaporator. I have the dash halfway apart already after dealing with the ECC servos. Only thing left is the steering wheel, so I may as well go for it. I hope the compressor is fine. Make sure you read up on correctly centering the airbag clock spring when you go to reinstall the steering wheel.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 19:53
|
|
|
Selling my Volvo   '99 V70XC, ~160k, cracked radiator but runs well otherwise. Cheap as poo poo. I really really hope one of you guys wants to buy it - for the car's sake. SA-Mart Thread
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2012 23:04
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Make sure you read up on correctly centering the airbag clock spring when you go to reinstall the steering wheel. http://www.woodjoiner.com/volvo/ I'm going to use that guide, and I don't see anything about a spring in the steps for removing the wheel. Thanks for the heads up.
|
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 00:47
|
|
|
Last September I decided I wanted a wagon. After some looking around online I found a '98 V70XC in Tulsa. It looked good in the pictures on the dealer's website, so the folks and I drove down (in their '01 XC70) to take a look. It looked good from a distance, but on closer inspection it started to smell lemony. In no particular order, here is what I noticed:
 It's an '04 V70 2.5T that had about 185K on it when I bought it. I'm up to about 191K now. The front plate is beat up because I've had it much longer than I've had the car. There's some kind of rubber weatherstrip along both sides of the windshield and it's cracked. I have no idea if this is a serious problem or not.  I really didn't like the stock radio, so I upgraded. Finding a double-DIN adapter for this model year is difficult. I ended up using an actual Volvo part that they use for the police versions of their cars, and that part still needed some modification for the radio to fit. Steering wheel controls don't work anymore, but apparently there's an add-on part (not ASWC) I can get to fix that. Also, does anyone know if there are aftermarket antennas for this car? I think the antenna is some wire traces in the left rear window and I'm disappointed with the reception I get.  This is the only real cosmetic issue with the interior. I also need to replace the rubber flaps in the cupholders.  I love pointing out to people that my car's engine is truly odd. Under the hood was very clean when I bought the car. It's a bit dusty now because I don't know the proper way to wash an engine. Dad's fixing up his old 740 because the XC is in the shop, and the difference in the amount of space in the engine compartments is striking. He also has a 544 in the barn, but it needs a lot of work. I'm dreading having to replace a headlight bulb. Speaking of which, could someone give me a brief overview of E-spec lights and the case for or against? Apologies if I missed it on a prior page. Arse Porn Cage fucked around with this message at 05:39 on May 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 05:10
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:I have nailed 6 pigeons in a month in my v70, I can't help but feel natural selection is going to throw a 2000kg pigeon at me soon. My 850 has taken on 3 deer in 3 years of owning it, not to mention the countless smaller kills its made like raccoons opossums etc. The first day I took ownership of the car I hit a raccoon on the freeway doing 70 and it ripped off the plastic air guide/ under engine cover. My Volvo needs the taste blood every few months to run right and happy.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 05:27
|
|
|
Arse Porn Cage posted:
Depends on how much the dealer was asking...anywhere around $5k and I wouldn't accept unless they drop the price because there is at least $1500 in repairs/replacements/maintenance without even really looking at the thing. I would value the car around $2500-3000.. I've had three '98s so far (2 S70s and 1 V70R) Check: Fog lights (cracked? working?), sunroof seals, trunk latch operation/gap, oil leaks, turbo?, all fairings/air guides intact?, operational climate control unit, all interior cubbies/glovebox/lighters/cupholders/back seat drops, and condition of tires.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 05:30
|
|
|
Sviatoslav posted:My Volvo needs the taste blood every few months to run right and happy. This should be the new thread title... 
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 05:30
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:Depends on how much the dealer was asking...anywhere around $5k and I wouldn't accept unless they drop the price because there is at least $1500 in repairs/replacements/maintenance without even really looking at the thing. I would value the car around $2500-3000.. I've had three '98s so far (2 S70s and 1 V70R) I got my '04 for $5,600. It also needed repairs to the A/C, but I love it. I read a review of a different model that claimed Volvo has the most comfortable seats in the industry, and I believe it. The turbo makes short work of passing on the highway and it still gets good mileage. It's a keeper. Arse Porn Cage fucked around with this message at 05:41 on May 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 05:36
|
|
|
My 88 240 wagon keeps shorting the brake lights out. I disconnected the 3rd light on the hatch to eliminate any fuckery with the tailgate harness, but still everytime I replace the fuse and press the pedal, the fuse blows. What could be causing this? Do the wires normally wear at some point or does a particular connection corrode/go bad? Other than this, the electrics are in decent condition.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 07:40
|
|
|
Arse Porn Cage posted:I'm dreading having to replace a headlight bulb. You can have each headlight assembly out in literally less than 5 seconds. Just pull up the two metal tabs right behind each assembly. That is all that is holding them in. Super clean, nice design.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 12:23
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Arse Porn Cage posted:
If you want the color to match, I believe there is a matching color part for 04 only but I don't have the part number handy. Or you could get a climate panel from an 01-03 and swap it in. You'd have to swap the plastic face, I don't think the electronics are compatible (I think they changed the can-bus speed in 04, but I'm not 100% on that). I do know that if the part numbers don't match, it's very likely that it won't work. Do not disconnect the climate control unit with the battery hooked up or you'll throw an airbag code that can only be reset by the dealer. Arse Porn Cage posted:Steering wheel controls don't work anymore, but apparently there's an add-on part (not ASWC) I can get to fix that. Also, does anyone know if there are aftermarket antennas for this car? I think the antenna is some wire traces in the left rear window and I'm disappointed with the reception I get. The only steering wheel control adapter that works is something like $250 and special order from europe. Most people just live without it. Search Dietz or Deitz on swedespeed for more info. Since you have an aftermarket radio, any aftermarket antenna should work but I have no idea on how you'd mount it. Arse Porn Cage posted:It's a bit dusty now because I don't know the proper way to wash an engine. Spray gently with a pressure washer, then wipe with a rag everywhere you can see. Or just use a wet rag if the pressure washer scares you. Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:My 88 240 wagon keeps shorting the brake lights out. I disconnected the 3rd light on the hatch to eliminate any fuckery with the tailgate harness, but still everytime I replace the fuse and press the pedal, the fuse blows. Where did you disconnect the 3rd brake light? I don't know about '88, but on the older 240s the tailgate harness passes through the hinge and that's usually where it breaks and shorts. If I ever owned a 240 I'd buy some rubber accordion sheathing and run the wiring down through the headliner and into a hole in the tailgate, it'd be uglier but more reliable. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 16:00 on May 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2012 15:46
|
|
|
I got the car up on ramps, and I still can't see poo poo. I see two hard lines going into the turbo but no hoses. Is there a diagram or something somewhere?
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2012 23:31
|
|
|
240 electrical fun, here we go! So my radio has been coming on and off as I'm driving, but the car keeps running. Every once and a while all the idiot lights will flash up but the car remains running. I've replaced the alternator recently, and just had the battery checked. Because the battery continues to keep a charge (no problem starting it), I'm thinking it's a bad ground. Does my diagnosis sound right, how hard is it to replace?
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 14:56
|
|
|
Replace/repair? Easy. Tracking it down? Aye, there's the rub.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 15:13
|
|
|
astrollinthepork posted:I got the car up on ramps, and I still can't see poo poo. I see two hard lines going into the turbo but no hoses. Is there a diagram or something somewhere? I have a '98 T5 motor sitting on a stand in my garage, I can snap some photos tonight for you. If it's not identical it'll be similar enough that you'll know what to look for.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 17:42
|
|
|
astrollinthepork posted:I got the car up on ramps, and I still can't see poo poo. I see two hard lines going into the turbo but no hoses. Is there a diagram or something somewhere?  This might help.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 20:03
|
|
|
goobernoodles posted:
Don't leech images; rehost it yourself someplace like Imgur.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 20:31
|
|
|
Corrupt Cypher posted:240 electrical fun, here we go! So my radio has been coming on and off as I'm driving, but the car keeps running. Every once and a while all the idiot lights will flash up but the car remains running. I've replaced the alternator recently, and just had the battery checked. As a follow up to this: I was driving home tonight and about a block from my house when the car died. Popped the hood and there was hydrogen sulphide gas streaming off the battery. I could have sworn all day I could smell sewer gas, I was starting to think an animal had died under my hood or something. Duh. Moral of the story is: battery testers at auto parts stores... not perfect.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 05:19
|
|
|
astrollinthepork posted:I got the car up on ramps, and I still can't see poo poo. I see two hard lines going into the turbo but no hoses. Is there a diagram or something somewhere?  Your car should look similar to this. There should be four hard lines going into the turbo, two oil and two water. The water hard lines are bolted to the turbo, but they're joined to the engine piping by two short sections of soft line. Nobody ever replaces these and they go bad. I traced the water lines in blue and pointed to the two soft lines in green. Another possible source of coolant leak back there is the heater hoses, the two other soft lines in the lower left. Happy hunting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 08:25
|
|
|
Corrupt Cypher posted:As a follow up to this: I was driving home tonight and about a block from my house when the car died. Popped the hood and there was hydrogen sulphide gas streaming off the battery. I could have sworn all day I could smell sewer gas, I was starting to think an animal had died under my hood or something. Duh. It's not your battery. The voltage regulator on your alternator has failed and overcharged the poo poo out of the battery. Park it on grass and clean out the area where the battery blew up with a bucket of water that's got a lot of baking soda mixed in (to neutralize the acid, which will otherwise eat your paint quick and then start rusting immediately), then replace the alternator and battery together. Don't touch your eyes or face at any time while you're cleaning.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 13:05
|
|
|
Got 5 hours to change a timing belt in a 96 850 turbo. I printed out bay13's excellent write-up. Anything not obvious that I should be aware of?
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 15:19
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:It's not your battery. The voltage regulator on your alternator has failed and overcharged the poo poo out of the battery. Park it on grass and clean out the area where the battery blew up with a bucket of water that's got a lot of baking soda mixed in (to neutralize the acid, which will otherwise eat your paint quick and then start rusting immediately), then replace the alternator and battery together. Don't touch your eyes or face at any time while you're cleaning. Gah. I just replaced the alternator five months ago. Do you think this is still the case?
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 18:14
|
|
|
Had it jumped lately? Is it a reman? I mean, age aside, that's textbook overvoltage and resulting damage. You can pull the alternator and get it tested (Autozone or Advanced will do this for free), it's only three bolts. You could test it on the car, but I wouldn't; no reason to do any damage to another battery when it's so easy to pull. Remember to release the bolt that runs perpendicular to the tensioner bolt before you try to spin the tensioner bolt, the perpendicular one is there to lock it in.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 18:34
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Had it jumped lately? Is it a reman? I mean, age aside, that's textbook overvoltage and resulting damage. I didn't have time to get the alt checked today but I replaced the battery and measured the output at the alternator. Even revving the piss out of the engine it was consistently putting out 14.5V. Am I in the clear?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2012 05:12
|
|
|
Thanks for the diagram and picture. That helps a lot and I know where the hose is now. I'm doubting my chances of being able to fit a ratchet in there though :
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2012 05:24
|
|
|
So a couple weeks ago a deer ran into the side of my car on a highway: Insurance told me that it's totaled, mainly due to the parts/labor involved with replacing the rear quarter panel. I asked them to valuate the car again, since they treated it as a standard, good-condition, 90,000-mile 850 turbo. I'm hoping that being a platinum edition 850 is special enough to actually be worth more than the repair bill. Do any of you guys have an idea? It was initially estimated at about $4100.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2012 01:22
|
|
|
That seems like a lot for a 1/4 panel but it looks like the door is dented as well... Depends on what the parts would go for..
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2012 02:23
|
|
|
So I replaced the turbo coolant inlet hose on the 850.... and I still have a leak. It's running rough now too. Sounds like it's missing, but I'm not getting any codes. I'll sort that out once I find this leak. It just drips off of the motor mount and onto the flywheel. It looks like I'm not going to be able to pressure test the drat thing because these drat cars have no radiator cap. drat.
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2012 17:14
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:That seems like a lot for a 1/4 panel but it looks like the door is dented as well... Depends on what the parts would go for.. Well there's damage to both doors (there's blood where its head hit), the rear quarter panel, the tail light, and some of the plastic trim on the other side of the massive dent. I was told that the panel will be a bitch to remove, and that the state of everything behind it is completely unknown. The repair estimate was in the upper $3600 range I think. Factoring in the deductible, that's a total loss. I'm crossing my fingers that it's worth at least 1000 more than their first guess. rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jun 11, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2012 01:01
|
|
|
rarbatrol posted:So a couple weeks ago a deer ran into the side of my car on a highway: While the platinum edition is super nice and rare, you aren't really going to get much more of a premium over just a regular 850 wagon. I always kick myself because a week after I got my 96 855 for $3k there was a platinum edition for sale right across the border from me in PA for the same price with less miles and manual and sun roof. I was so pissed I was inconsolable for days. I'm still really bitter about it. Speaking of deer and 850 wagons   That was last winter. That was deer 2 of 3. I'm now really really good at rebuilding my front end. After the last one it was completely rebuild by noon the next day. There is a Volvo specific shop/ junkyard in Ravenna Ohio that is a godsend.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2012 01:35
|
|
|
I have a '97 850. From the clicking sound coming from the front right wheel, I'm assuming I have a busted CV joint. Is that job a very inexperienced mechanic could tackle on his own, or should I take it to the shop?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2012 08:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 08:28 |
|
|
Assuming you're dropping in a new axle it's an easy enough job, for me the worst part was getting the hub out of the control arm. (Actually the worst part was having to pull the axle twice after I over-extended the cv joint & the balls fell out into the rubber boot. I had to rebuild it in my boot/trunk)
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2012 11:04
|
|