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Yeah, I've been contemplating it but I don't really have the cash right now. My dad has a pretty solid scanner and he's only about an hour away so I guess I could just wait till I visit him to scan in my negatives. edit: My gear lust is insatiable, unfortunately as alluded to above, I'm a bit skint. Fortunately however I just found this thread in GBS and am now (at least when they get round to shipping it) the proud owner of one of these:  More Lomo than Lomo.  Expect awful sample pictures soon. Holistic Detective fucked around with this message at 00:15 on May 14, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 09:55
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so was it wise of me to spend three euros impulsively on this handsome little devil? e: what batteries does it take? does anyone generally know how to operate it, in terms of shutter speed, loading and rewinding film? i have never used a 35mm p&s before. oh and i know this is an incredibly dumb question, but just having used digital and SLRs before, how does the viewfinder actually work? do i have to compensate for the fact that it is separate from the lens optics when composing, much like how loltastic relying on the viewfinder in something like a holga is? oh and should any old vintage flash in the hotshoe work? widunder fucked around with this message at 12:52 on May 19, 2012 |
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May 19, 2012 11:20
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I tried looking the camera up for more information but I couldn't really find a manual for that particular model, just snippets of information. The camera is an aperture priority camera where you can select the aperture at the base of the lens and then the camera will select the appropriate shutter speed, so having a battery is a must. I think it may take the old PX625 mercury battery which aren't made anymore, buy you can buy the Wein Cell MR625 as a decent replacement. Also it looks like the camera is only made to zone focus, that's why they have those pictures on the lens. Film should load like a typical P&S 35mm film camera, except this camera has a film advance lever on top so you have to manually advance it after every frame which should cock the shutter too. And you do have to compensate for the parallax error of having the viewfinder that doesn't look through the lens, where at a long distance the difference isn't too great, but up close can be a problem.
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May 19, 2012 14:05
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Mest0r posted:I tried looking the camera up for more information but I couldn't really find a manual for that particular model, just snippets of information. The camera is an aperture priority camera where you can select the aperture at the base of the lens and then the camera will select the appropriate shutter speed, so having a battery is a must. I think it may take the old PX625 mercury battery which aren't made anymore, buy you can buy the Wein Cell MR625 as a decent replacement. Also it looks like the camera is only made to zone focus, that's why they have those pictures on the lens.
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May 19, 2012 14:35
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nemoulette posted:thanks man! so if i was shooting portaits at, let us say, four feets distance, i would just compensate by shooting slightly to the left? Typically if you were looking through the viewfinder that has parallax correction, when you focus from infinity to closest focusing distance, you would see the frame lines shift from left to right and slightly downwards (closer towards the position of the lens relative to the viewfinder). In general I don't think the parallax error is that big of a deal unless you're trying to shoot something that needs critical framing.
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May 19, 2012 14:53
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Mest0r posted:Typically if you were looking through the viewfinder that has parallax correction, when you focus from infinity to closest focusing distance, you would see the frame lines shift from left to right and slightly downwards (closer towards the position of the lens relative to the viewfinder). In general I don't think the parallax error is that big of a deal unless you're trying to shoot something that needs critical framing.
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May 19, 2012 15:33
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^I think you absolutely need to, if you look at the front of the lens, there's a clear patch on the bottom, that's the cell for metering. Otherwise, there's no way to set the shutter speed manually unfortunately, just make sure you buy the right batteries
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May 19, 2012 15:37
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Mest0r posted:^I think you absolutely need to, if you look at the front of the lens, there's a clear patch on the bottom, that's the cell for metering. Otherwise, there's no way to set the shutter speed manually unfortunately, just make sure you buy the right batteries e: could i use these? http://www.amazon.com/Vinnic-PX625-L1560-Alkaline-Manganese-Batteries/dp/B002UV4NQO/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1337473139&sr=1-2 widunder fucked around with this message at 01:19 on May 20, 2012 |
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May 19, 2012 18:06
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Having just finished grad school, I can actually go places and do things that warrant bringing a camera again. Hooray! Still using the XA2. Lucky dog:  35960010.jpg by spikespikespike, on Flickr Sunset watching:  35960001.jpg by spikespikespike, on Flickr Crazy golden hour color:  35960006.jpg by spikespikespike, on Flickr
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May 22, 2012 00:06
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Sadly no pictures from me, so have some ramblings instead: Despite not needing any more rangefinders or point-and-shoots I stumbled upon two nice looking Yashica Electro 35 CC's. Paid roughly $15 for both. They came with dirty viewfinders and a bit of fungus, but whatever - time to test my tools and skills. So I managed to clean the first one. Removed the top - cleaned out the finder, adjusted the infinity setting and re-glued the light-seals. Then I went on to take apart the lens. The fungus cleaned off nicely using a solution of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. Some tiny spots where it probably etched the coating remain - but I doubt it will seriously affect the picture taking ability. Also cleaned the the shutter mechanism while I was at it. Put it all together. It worked. And then while "exercising" the camera a bit it started to develop that "thunk!" sound when winding often known as the POD, or pad-of-death. Named after a small pad that basically disintegrates and causes the camera to run at only the fastest shutter speed and also sometimes causes the shutter button to fail to return. Then I checked the other camera and within minutes it started to develop the same problem. Fixing it requires to basically take the camera apart in it's entirety. That means removing the malt, removing the lens assembly, removing the top. and then digging around wherever the stupid pad may be. Haven't been able to find any documentation for the CC on the web. So thus I'm not really sure I'm willing to do that. I tought only Yashica GC* series of cameras could develop this problem. But it seems that almost all electrical Yashica cameras are affected by it. Also their light seals turn really nasty, not just the usual type of goo - but some brittle yellowed moldy substance that is just pure yuck. No more Yashica for me.   (The thing resting on the lens cloth in the up-most right corner is the front element.)
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May 25, 2012 06:31
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Don't be so hasty to condemn all the Yashica rangefinders. The Lynx/Minister series have mechanical shutters and own. They're by no means perfect, but the older ones are well built and repairable, and the lenses are decent. They also have a pretty unique option, the Lynx 14. It's got a leaf-shuttered 50/1.4 and it's built like a tank for shake dissipation. Like most of the early-ish ones it's got manual control of the meter/shutter so while the meter only goes to ISO800 you can just set whatever you want. I have an XA whose meter reads a stop fast, and I usually use that instead. They aren't quite as cheap as the GSNs, but they're still a decent value (see also: Konica Auto S2). You're supposedly able to replace the POD from the top, I think. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:22 on May 25, 2012 |
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May 25, 2012 07:25
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I picked up a Yashica Electro 35 for cheap as well and quickly learned unless it's been previously serviced for the 'pad-of-death' problem it undoubtedly will need some kind of repair. You can actually see the problem area if you just pop off the top plate of the camera, but unless you further disassemble the camera it'll be a bit tough to clean the area and place a new pad correctly.
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May 25, 2012 07:32
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Goodwill find of the month: They both need new light-seals though. Now I just need to get over my fear of being labeled a hipster so I can try them out outside. 
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May 25, 2012 12:20
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Prathm posted:Now I just need to get over my fear of being labeled a hipster so I can try them out outside.
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May 25, 2012 13:35
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FasterThanLight posted:Be like the RFF nerds and put black tape over all of the logos, which apparently puts you into "stealth mode". Don't forget to wave your hand in front of your face like John Cena and shout "YOU CAN'T SEE ME!!!"
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May 25, 2012 15:30
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FasterThanLight posted:Be like the RFF nerds and put black tape over all of the logos, which apparently puts you into "stealth mode". Is that why people do that? I figured it would be something dorky but I never would have guessed that.
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May 25, 2012 17:15
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I think it's also to make the camera seem less attractive to thieves, as if any snatch-and-grab thief is going to check out which brand he's nabbing first. It's loving stupid. And stop giving a poo poo what people think and just use your drat cameras.
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May 25, 2012 17:46
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Prathm posted:Goodwill find of the month: Man gently caress that, those are very pretty cameras. Use them with pride.
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May 25, 2012 18:05
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Prathm posted:Is that why people do that? I figured it would be something dorky but I never would have guessed that. That is why some people do it. I've done it just to keep the bright white camera company logo from showing up so strongly in reflections, especially if I have to shoot through glass, like from an observation deck in a skyscraper or something.
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May 26, 2012 11:56
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A few months back I found two $3-or-so cameras at a nearby Salvation Army. One was a Helioflex 3000T which comes with built in light-leak ability and a bad film advance wheel, and my new pal the Vivitar PN2011 which I modified to do multiple exposures. There were also like 10 or more cameras that I didn't pick up, but may head back soon to look at. So I'm sure it's been said before but if you want some cheapo interesting cameras and you have a Salvation Army nearby, go check it out 
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May 28, 2012 20:08
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sold my contax t2, bought a yashica t4. I guess it goes without saying but the t2 feels so much more solid then the t4, so theres that loss, but i really like the outcome more.    
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Jun 1, 2012 13:57
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Stuck a battery in this bad boy yesterday. Gonna take it out on the lake w/ Portra 400.
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Jun 1, 2012 19:01
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Are there any other suggestions for a wide, like 30mm or less, point and shoots that I should consider. I know about the Vivitar Wide & Slim so I am curious about other options. The cheaper the better I would say!
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Jun 2, 2012 01:59
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Lord Rupert posted:Are there any other suggestions for a wide, like 30mm or less, point and shoots that I should consider. I know about the Vivitar Wide & Slim so I am curious about other options. The cheaper the better I would say! There's the Ricoh GR1s with a 28mm f/2.8 lens, but it's not cheap.
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Jun 2, 2012 02:03
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Lord Rupert posted:Are there any other suggestions for a wide, like 30mm or less, point and shoots that I should consider. I know about the Vivitar Wide & Slim so I am curious about other options. The cheaper the better I would say! Nikon 28TI, expensive though.
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Jun 2, 2012 02:36
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This is great.
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Jun 2, 2012 03:29
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Lord Rupert posted:Are there any other suggestions for a wide, like 30mm or less, point and shoots that I should consider. I know about the Vivitar Wide & Slim so I am curious about other options. The cheaper the better I would say! The Fujifilm DL Super Mini, otherwise know as the 'Tiara' in Asia, is a great 28mm f3.5 that you should be able to find for under $100.
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Jun 4, 2012 15:43
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RustedChrome posted:That is why some people do it. I've done it just to keep the bright white camera company logo from showing up so strongly in reflections, especially if I have to shoot through glass, like from an observation deck in a skyscraper or something. I've read elsewhere that for street photography, people's eyes are subconsciously drawn to text (like a camera company's name), so if you black it out, more likely they'll slide over you/the camera and get back to whatever they were doing. That said, never done it.
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Jun 8, 2012 10:37
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Lord Rupert posted:Are there any other suggestions for a wide, like 30mm or less, point and shoots that I should consider. I know about the Vivitar Wide & Slim so I am curious about other options. The cheaper the better I would say! Thanks for all the suggestions I ended up going the ultra cheap route with a Olympus Trip AF50. Can't wait to try it out, but I have to wait until my vacation is over since it hasn't arrived yet. I figured it was better to spend more money on film at this time than a camera I plan on just throwing in my pocket and beating up probably.
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Jun 9, 2012 17:43
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Awkward Davies posted:I have a problem (but it was $5 on ebay, how could I say no?) Finally got around to fixing this fucker. The problems - Battery compartment is massive:  Battery compartment Yashica Electro 35 GS by spikespikespike, on Flickr Battery is tiny:  Alkaline battery for Yashica Electro 35 GS by spikespikespike, on Flickr Solution: Laser cut spacers. The battery compartment is about .6 inches in diameter, the compartment is about .5 inches in diameter. I laser cut some 1/8th inch plexi spacers and then stacked them.  Battery spacers by spikespikespike, on Flickr Snug:  Untitled by spikespikespike, on Flickr Also, the battery was still about 1/4th inch or so below the battery cap due to its reduced size, so I ripped a small spring out of a discarded children's toy and soldered it to the cap  Untitled by spikespikespike, on Flickr Battery test, success!  Success! Battery light on by spikespikespike, on Flickr Finally, the camera was missing the advance lever  Broken film advance lever by spikespikespike, on Flickr so I laser cut a new one out of 1/4th inch black plexi. It's not perfect, but it works.  Untitled by spikespikespike, on Flickr Now to run a roll through it and find out it has the pad of death, rendering this all pointless.
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Jun 12, 2012 03:45
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Lasers solve everything!
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Jun 12, 2012 05:17
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Lasers solve everything! This is true.
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Jun 12, 2012 05:43
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Just use it as a fixed shutter speed camera, it should fire at 500th of a second without a battery, way better than a holga at least. 
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Jun 12, 2012 06:22
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 yashica t4, kodak color plus 200
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Jun 13, 2012 20:44
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nemoulette posted:so was it wise of me to spend three euros impulsively on this handsome little devil?  Comparing to videos on YouTube of a similar models it seems that the electronic shutter might be hosed as mine doesn't really make a satisfying "click" sound, more of a weird electric bzzz sound.
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Jun 15, 2012 09:45
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nemoulette posted:Nothing came out with this one Sounds like it's stuck at a lower shutter-speed. I have a few older cameras that make that buzzing from 1/30 and down.
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Jun 15, 2012 23:40
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$2 thrift store Canon SURE SHOT is still kicking along, though it kinda sucks it seems to scratch all the film put in it. All Fuji Superia 400:    
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Jun 28, 2012 02:46
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 Caterpillar Photographer by atomicthumbs, on Flickr Pentax UC-1/Espio Mini, Portra 400.
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Jun 29, 2012 21:31
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 yashica t4, velvia 50
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Jul 9, 2012 17:02
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Holistic Detective posted:edit: My gear lust is insatiable, unfortunately as alluded to above, I'm a bit skint. Fortunately however I just found this I ordered one of these bad boys :  after seeing that thread. It was €6. I mean, come on. That's the price of a roll of film over here. Can't wait for it to arrive some time in 2013 !It takes shots like this:  which is pretty cool for the price of a McDonald's Meal.
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Jul 10, 2012 00:07
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