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So I got new used wheels for my TS. $300 for all 4 & tires, I love them! 
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May 24, 2012 21:30
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MrZig posted:So I got new used wheels for my TS. $300 for all 4 & tires, I love them! I really need to get my windows tinted.
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May 24, 2012 22:10
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Amandyke posted:I really need to get my windows tinted. Same, especially now that I've moved and don't have a garage for the summer. Black leather is going to lead to some scalded thighs if I don't do something.
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May 24, 2012 22:19
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Same, especially now that I've moved and don't have a garage for the summer. Black leather is going to lead to some scalded thighs if I don't do something. Dark grey is loving miserable. It's the small of your back, where the shirt comes up right as you sit down. BAM top layer of skin gone.
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May 24, 2012 22:52
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What can I expect for the labor costs of replacing a cam seal and a AC condenser? And is it remotely possible to do the AC condenser myself? Car in question is a 98 Legacy GT wagon
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May 25, 2012 00:26
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Basically just take the glove box out and loosen the fittings in the engine bay. I changed my expansion valve last year (on a 98gt) and it was pretty straightforward. Or do you mean the heat exchanger in front of the radiator? Also pretty easy to change. The cam seal requires the timing belt to come off. So if any of that timing stuff, the water pump, or thermostat is anywhere near due for a change now would be a good time.
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May 25, 2012 03:21
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Hey is anyone going to West Coast Subaru this year? August 17-19. I know I am, and it'd be neat to talk and look at Subarus with goons! https://www.westcoastsubarushow.com
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May 25, 2012 04:32
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MrZig posted:Hey is anyone going to West Coast Subaru this year? August 17-19. I know I am, and it'd be neat to talk and look at Subarus with goons! I just moved to Washington, Ill have to go and check it out. Getting my Syms wheels and mud tires installed next week so it should be a good ole time.
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May 25, 2012 05:12
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Has anyone used the JNA catback with a stock downpipe? Or any 3" catback with the stock 2.5"?
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May 28, 2012 02:29
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Can anyone comment on how difficult it would be to lower a 1998 Outback to the regular Legacy ride height? Since the cars are pretty much identical I was kind of hoping it would be as easy as just using Legacy springs/shocks. The ones on it right now are original and definitely showing their age and if I'm going to be replacing them anyways a little lower would be nice. If so, what parts should I get? I know KYB makes good stock replacements, anyone else I should look at?
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May 28, 2012 03:41
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$55 for the S U B A R U letters on the back of the pre-06 WRX trunk? C'mon Subaru, you're busting my balls.
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May 28, 2012 04:08
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kylej posted:$55 for the S U B A R U letters on the back of the pre-06 WRX trunk? C'mon Subaru, you're busting my balls.
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May 28, 2012 04:22
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nm posted:If I ever heard of a cause for a junkyard run. when you buy them new they come in a long adhesive strip which makes it a lot easier to install. Individually placing letters on a trunk and actually making them look good... too hard for my dumb rear end
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May 28, 2012 04:48
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law abiding rapist posted:Can anyone comment on how difficult it would be to lower a 1998 Outback to the regular Legacy ride height? Since the cars are pretty much identical I was kind of hoping it would be as easy as just using Legacy springs/shocks. The ones on it right now are original and definitely showing their age and if I'm going to be replacing them anyways a little lower would be nice. You could use strut/springs to drop it, but the proper way is to pull out the spacers. The Outbacks used driveline spacers between all the mounts and the body to shim the drivetrain down about an inch. ChrisGT knows more about it then I do.
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May 28, 2012 05:01
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My '95 Impreza can't get into gear unless I push really hard on the stick (while the engine is running, and the car is stopped, and the clutch is in) I heard this was a clutch related issue... Trueeee? I see this clutch kit is cheap on amazon: EXEDY 15010 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit http://tinyurl.com/7uytqh8 Is this barking up the right tree or not? The fluid is not that old in the tranny and it wasn't grinding going into gears before this problem started. I haven't looked in the little flappy hole at the bottom of the bell house yet but I figured I may as well ask on here before putting it up on jack stands.
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May 28, 2012 06:30
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kylej posted:when you buy them new they come in a long adhesive strip which makes it a lot easier to install. Individually placing letters on a trunk and actually making them look good... too hard for my dumb rear end I have my 2012 Subaru letters if anyone wants them. $5 shipping. Sorry I can't be more help than that.
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May 28, 2012 06:37
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WCSS - yeah probably I'm a little closer these days Lowering an Outback: The struts are longer and the springs are taller. So going with standard Legacy suspension will lower the car down to Legacy height. The problem is that there are spacers between the crossmembers and the body, giving the car a "body lift," which keeps the suspension geometry where it should be. So if you just replace the struts and springs you ruin the way the suspension is supposed to work and the handling. The way to do it is to get new bolts for the crossmebers (front, rear, and front trans), a new steering linkage, and then to pull out all the spacers when you do it. Technically the propshaft is a little different but you can keep yours. You also need to loosen the pitch stop mount to let is slide over in the mounts and you should probably loosen the clamps on the rad hoses and rotate them too. clutch/shifting issue: No the clutch is not the problem. When the clutch goes bad it loses it's ability to transmit torque and slips under load. So for example you will be in 3rd gear at 4000rpm and put your foot down and the revs will go through the roof and the car doesn't accelerate. Not going into gear is a syncro issue. I would start with new fluid (Subaru Extra-s), but the real problem is just that the car and transmission are old and short of rebuilding the transmission it's not going to get much better. The car is almost 20 years old so basically just learn to live with it. Instead of going straight for 1st with the car stopped, put it into 2nd and then go to 1st. Doing this with the clutch to the floor will stop the input shaft. That should make it easier because the worn out 1st gear syncro no longer has to take up a 900rpm speed difference. Or, when you're coming up to a 4-way stop for example, it should slide right into 1st juuuust before you come to a complete stop because the speeds are matched up. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:18 on May 28, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 07:15
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Need some wheel/suspension (?) guidance. I picked up some STI BBS off nasioc for my Legacy GT. Wasn't paying attention to the ad and the guy has 245/45 RE-01Rs mounted. I thought I was gonna clear the suspension when putting them on but once the car is on the ground the fronts are rubbing a bit on the bit of the strut where the spring sits. It gets a little worse under braking. Can I run 5mm spacers with stock studs? I'm guessing either way I'll need some open ended lugs. Not really trying to swap for 225s, the tires are basically brand new and I got a great deal on everything.
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May 29, 2012 16:08
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I'm swapping an 01 RS motor into an 02 Legacy GT. The legacy GT had an oil cooler on it, which is now probably full of dead motor parts. Should I buy a new oil cooler for the RS motor I'm going to throw in? RS motor was bolted to a 5 speed and my leggy is an auto.
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May 29, 2012 19:59
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I would absolutely buy a new oil cooler if the alternative were using one that was attached to a blown-up motor. You'll never get that thing clean. Get a huge bosozoku style one and jam it out the bumper.
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May 29, 2012 20:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would absolutely buy a new oil cooler if the alternative were using one that was attached to a blown-up motor. You'll never get that thing clean. Yeah I know the one with the motor is junk, but should I buy a new one or run the RS motor without one was my question.
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May 29, 2012 20:26
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I would probably just leave it off. Most of the n/a cars don't have that cooler and they even got rid of it on the 08+ WRX.
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May 29, 2012 20:43
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Finally got my rear suspension replaced with the epic/koni combo. For round 2 on the bolts that defeated me, I came with a larger breaker bar (25" 1/2" drive), ~3.5' pipe, a new 1/2" drive ratchet, impact socket, impact socket extensions with 15 degrees of deflection, a propane torch and 2 blocks of wood. The key for me was the 2 blocks of wood on the jack to get the car 3-4" higher, the 1/2" drive ratchet and maybe the impact socket. I gave the PB blaster some time to do work, then had someone hold the nut facing the rotor in place with a breaker bar while I went at the bolt head under the car with the ratchet and a smaller pipe (a bit under 2'). The extra height from the wood plus using a ratchet rather than a breaker bar to be able to position the handle in a spot where I could apply the most force was all I needed. Didn't have to open the torch and the longer pipe wasn't usable going at the bolt head under the car. I wanted to use the socket extensions to get around the rotor so I could use the big bar and pipe on the nut from outside the car, but 15 degrees wasn't enough deflection. It got around the rotor, but once I started applying force, it contacted the thin metal that sits behind and around the rotor and would have bent it had I kept going. Under the car, the breaker bars weren't effective because I couldn't get them in a position where I could apply decent force using 6 point sockets. Anyway, thanks everyone for the tips on that bolt and thanks to jamal for hooking up the parts. I now have epics / konis all around, whiteline ALK, roll center / bump steer kit and rear swaybar. Still need to get an alignment, dial in the koni dampening and install a front swaybar, but the car already feels so much better than it did on its 80k stock setup.
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May 29, 2012 22:56
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My 2011 WRX got rear-ended today, and my insurance company will let me use one of their USAA-approved shops or I can use any repair shop of my choice. Does anyone have any suggestions for the Littleton or south Denver area? The damage appears to be all in the bumper, the bumper piece is pushed in at the bottom and the plastic cosmetic mesh/grille thingy is gone. The panel seams popped all along below the trunk and at the rear quarter panels. The tail lights and trunk seem to be fine. I'm not sure if my exhaust tips took any impact. Is there anything I should insist on having checked out at the inspection? The 2003 Jetta lost its grille, radiator, and had some big hood dents. She probably hit me doing 20 mph with her brakes locked up. No injuries, we were both surprised her air bags didn't deploy.
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May 31, 2012 04:37
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Splinter posted:Finally got my rear suspension replaced with the epic/koni combo. For round 2 on the bolts that defeated me, I came with a larger breaker bar (25" 1/2" drive), ~3.5' pipe, a new 1/2" drive ratchet, impact socket, impact socket extensions with 15 degrees of deflection, a propane torch and 2 blocks of wood. The key for me was the 2 blocks of wood on the jack to get the car 3-4" higher, the 1/2" drive ratchet and maybe the impact socket. I gave the PB blaster some time to do work, then had someone hold the nut facing the rotor in place with a breaker bar while I went at the bolt head under the car with the ratchet and a smaller pipe (a bit under 2'). The extra height from the wood plus using a ratchet rather than a breaker bar to be able to position the handle in a spot where I could apply the most force was all I needed. Didn't have to open the torch and the longer pipe wasn't usable going at the bolt head under the car. Awesome. Aside from cam gears that is probably the worst fastener on the whole car.
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May 31, 2012 05:12
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KleenexCMW posted:My 2011 WRX got rear-ended today, and my insurance company will let me use one of their USAA-approved shops or I can use any repair shop of my choice. Does anyone have any suggestions for the Littleton or south Denver area? I don't know if the laws are different in Colorado vs. California, but in California you take your car wherever the hell you want to. Also her insurance is going to be covering everything, not yours. You can go through yours to make things a little easier for you, but they wont be paying you a dime unless her limits get reached (then they'll sue her for the extra). As for what they should check, make sure the unibody isn't tweaked, bumper rails are OK, that sort of thing. It'd take a pretty inept body shop to miss anything in a fairly routine rear-end accident. Just be sure that your car is repaired to exactly how it was before the accident, and have the alignment checked as well.
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May 31, 2012 13:52
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Amandyke posted:I don't know if the laws are different in Colorado vs. California, but in California you take your car wherever the hell you want to. Also her insurance is going to be covering everything, not yours. You can go through yours to make things a little easier for you, but they wont be paying you a dime unless her limits get reached (then they'll sue her for the extra). As for what they should check, make sure the unibody isn't tweaked, bumper rails are OK, that sort of thing. It'd take a pretty inept body shop to miss anything in a fairly routine rear-end accident. Just be sure that your car is repaired to exactly how it was before the accident, and have the alignment checked as well. I definitely won't be paying for the work, and I can take it anywhere but USAA will guarantee any work that their approved shops do for the life of the car, though I assume most any shop will do that, too. Thanks for the advice on specific things to ask to be inspected!
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May 31, 2012 14:53
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My 2011 STi is making a wild almost buzzing sound when I shift from 1-2 and 2-3 when I'm on boost at high RPM. It seems to pull fine and I can't hear it or it doesn't do it in higher gears. I replaced the air filter right after it got driven to colorado, could that have anything to do with anything? The timing and duration of the noise makes me think its just the BPV working, but I never thought that was audible on a stock motor car, and it certainly wasn't when I was at sea level in WA. Edit: Went to dealer and they said it was normal BPV noise. Then they suggested I drive another 2011 to see if it made the same noise. It did. Paranoia. I'm sure no one really cares, but I thought I would post the update just for information purposes. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jun 1, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 17:56
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I'm thinking very hard about getting a Subaru. I've (FINALLY) got my first proper full time job, and I'm sick to death of my lovely '99 Buick Century. I don't plan on doing any modification to it, it's going to be a daily driver, but I'd really like it to be something I could have fun with even so. I thought the Impreza would be the only choice for that sort of thing, but I keep seeing people posting in this thread about their wagons, so what really is the difference between the legacies, outbacks, and imprezas? I don't expect to be finding anything fancy in the sub-$5000 bracket, and I'm leery about buying a turbo anyway now that I know they take premium only. Monstertruck posted:Got my lightbar installed today. Its pretty hairy drilling 1.5" holes in your bumper, but with a little coaxing it all went well. 4 Hella 700FFs going in tomorrow (if they make it here on time). VVV Like that! Slap some stickers on her and barrel through some forests. 
Dice Dingus fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Jun 2, 2012 |
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Jun 2, 2012 07:21
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Let there be light. 
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Jun 2, 2012 07:52
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Dice Dingus posted:I'm thinking very hard about getting a Subaru. I've (FINALLY) got my first proper full time job, and I'm sick to death of my lovely '99 Buick Century. I don't plan on doing any modification to it, it's going to be a daily driver, but I'd really like it to be something I could have fun with even so. The impreza is subarus compact budget line of cars. The forester is also built off the impreza platform. The legacy and outback are the same platform, the outbacks are just lifted a bit. The idea behind the legacy is its roomier, has a better interior, is fatter, ect. I personally have an 02 impreza which is an amazing little car that you can bolt all sorts of poo poo to and have a blast barreling through the woods or pavement depending what tires you have on. At the same time, it's really a lovely car. I've bought a legacy sedan to fix up because its roomier and has more creature comforts. You can read about the car in my stupid project thread and look at sweet pictures and be jealous. Honestly, test drive both. Outback/legacy wagons and imprezas from 00+ can be found for around 5k easily. http://www.cars101.com/ is the go to for specs. Read about the headgaskets in the OP though.
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Jun 2, 2012 13:46
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Premium isn't that big of a deal. I actually spend less on gas in my WRX than my regular Impreza because I want to go as fast in the latter car all the time. If you do the math, at worst it's like buying 10.25 gallons instead of 10 gallons at a fillup.
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Jun 2, 2012 14:53
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Yea 20 cents times fifteen gallons is three extra dollars on an already fifty or so average dollar tank of gas. The cost of premium fuel over regular is not a factor in buying a car.
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Jun 2, 2012 18:19
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Frankly, I don't care about luxury stuff. All I need is four seats, workings heaters for the winter, working windows for the summer, and a radio. The fact that they all run on the same platform is also really encouraging, because the other big thing I'm looking for is a car I can learn to work on. All in all, I'm starting to feel like an Impreza hatch is right for me. The other thing I've heard (from my dad who is kind of a crotchety old man about cars) is that turbos are unreliable, which I'm very skeptical of, but I want to make sure I ask.  The fuel issue doesn't sound like a problem if it's as fun as I hear.
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Jun 2, 2012 18:47
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Turbos will be less reliable that a comparable NA motor, that is true. The subaru turbos are notibily less reliable than subaru NA cars (excepting headgasket era cars before they get a fixed HG). Are they unreliable? Probably not. That said, I had to rebuilt my motor (piston issues) and transmission under 100k mi on my turbo 2.5, though my car was tracked.
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Jun 2, 2012 18:56
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Dice Dingus posted:The other thing I've heard (from my dad who is kind of a crotchety old man about cars) is that turbos are unreliable, which I'm very skeptical of, but I want to make sure I ask. Old people who lived through the terrible early days of turbocharging vehicles (think GM from the 60's to the 80's) always go on and on about how unreliable turbos are. It's the same reason most old Americans think diesel engines are only good in huge trucks. They were buying cars when technologies like diesel engines and turbochargers were in their infancy in the US market and were not refined yet, and somehow they refuse to believe they've gotten any better since then. Turbos and small displacement diesel engines have come a long way in the last 25 years. In fact a growing number of American cars now offer turbo engines, from the lowest Economy car Chevy to the twin turbo flagship Ford Taurus. Actually the funny thing is that the one American car company that has been turbocharging vehicles pretty consistently since the 80's currently offers no turbo cars while everyone else does. (Dodge Caravan turbo, Dodge Spirit R/T, Omni, Shadow, LeBaron, Stealth, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, PT Cruiser Turbo, Neon SRT-4, Caliber R/T, etc.) Don't fear the boost.
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Jun 2, 2012 19:29
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The WRX felt really sluggish yesterday. Today I hooked up my accessport and found it making half its usual boost. Boost leaks are irritating.
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Jun 2, 2012 23:25
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mlmp08 posted:The WRX felt really sluggish yesterday. Today I hooked up my accessport and found it making half its usual boost. Boost leaks are irritating. Tell me about it. Try having a shredded inlet that you can't replace in time for your tune because you swapped in bigger injectors. $450 for a tune while the car had a massive boost leak  Gonna be at least $1400 just in tunes this year.My friends and family always ask me why I don't just lease a new STi and save a bunch of money. They don't understand, man.
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Jun 2, 2012 23:38
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Just traded in my 07 STi today on a used F150. Can't haul a horse trailer with the subie, but ill miss her. Still got the WRX but kind of happy the money pit STi is gone. Tunes and everything else just costs way too much
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Jun 3, 2012 06:13
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BoostCreep posted:Old people who lived through the terrible early days of turbocharging vehicles (think GM from the 60's to the 80's) always go on and on about how unreliable turbos are. It's the same reason most old Americans think diesel engines are only good in huge trucks. They were buying cars when technologies like diesel engines and turbochargers were in their infancy in the US market and were not refined yet, and somehow they refuse to believe they've gotten any better since then. Dodge Dart, Fiat 500 Abarth. The Caliber R/T wasn't turbo, the SRT-4 was though. It just didn't sell at all because it was fat, slow, expensive and ugly.
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Jun 3, 2012 22:33
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