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Amandyke posted:Dodge Dart, Fiat 500 Abarth. The Caliber R/T wasn't turbo, the SRT-4 was though. It just didn't sell at all because it was fat, slow, expensive and ugly. I meant SRT-4, not R/T. Didn't count the Fiat since it's not a Chrysler, it's a Fiat. And you got me on the Dart. I didn't think the turbo version came out til later. I think my point still stands though.
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Jun 4, 2012 05:46
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Last night, my '12 Outback 2.5l didn't want to start. I turned the key and heard a relay going "CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK". I got a jump from the girlfriend, drove it for about half an hour (with the headlights on), and then parked it at the local grocery store colloquially known as the "Murder Kroger" (Sunday alcohol sales are only just now becoming a thing in Georgia, and none of the local package stores have caught on). I tried to start it again and it cranked a few times, really weak, so I bump started it. Parked on a hill when I got home. This morning, I got the same "CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK". Bump start, drove to work, parked on a hill. I have an appointment to take it to the dealership this afternoon. Question: How annoyed are they likely to be that I have two KC lights wired up? I tried to keep them separate from the car's electronics as much as possible, but they draw power off of the positive battery terminal and are grounded to the chassis. I checked for frayed insulation but didn't see any, and they're on their own fuse that would blow if there was an issue.
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Jun 4, 2012 14:24
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I  romraider. WRX failed emissions on Friday (duh) as it has no cats or TGVs or rear O2 sensor. I didn't realize suppressing the codes wouldn't solve it... until you push this button! Boom. Passed today 
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Jun 4, 2012 14:34
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I feel like I wouldn't post that on an internet forum
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Jun 4, 2012 18:56
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Wamsutta posted:I feel like I wouldn't post that on an internet forum Why? The car passed emissions testing per PA law. If we tried to prosecute every person who breaks federal noise and emissions laws on the internet we'd all be locked up...
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Jun 4, 2012 19:03
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A guy in my neighborhood just got a 2011 STi limited sedan, DGM, without spoiler. It's the baddest thing ever and I want one. 
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Jun 4, 2012 19:36
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Safety Dance posted:Battery not charging. The service people worked on my car for about an hour and said, "Your battery was bad. We replaced it under warranty and washed your car. Have a great day!" I hope I didn't hurt my alternator much by bump starting it and driving it for what probably totals an hour with a bad battery, though. 
Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jun 4, 2012 |
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Jun 4, 2012 21:44
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Safety Dance posted:The service people worked on my car for about an hour and said, "Your battery was bad. We replaced it under warranty and washed your car. Have a great day!" That's pretty sweet. I'm not sure why that would hurt anything though. From my understanding your car doesn't run on your battery. The battery is only there to have enough amperage to turn over the engine, at which point your alternator takes over to run anything power related.
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Jun 4, 2012 23:10
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godDAMN https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVSidl9mOKs My tuner just had this thing on the dyno. I want my car to sound like that.
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Jun 5, 2012 03:32
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Falco posted:That's pretty sweet. I'm not sure why that would hurt anything though. From my understanding your car doesn't run on your battery. The battery is only there to have enough amperage to turn over the engine, at which point your alternator takes over to run anything power related. I've always been under the impression that, if you were to start up a car and then remove the battery and run the car for a long time, that would shorten the life of the alternator. I could be wrong, especially considering that I can't cite any sources.
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Jun 5, 2012 15:24
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Safety Dance posted:I've always been under the impression that, if you were to start up a car and then remove the battery and run the car for a long time, that would shorten the life of the alternator. I could be wrong, especially considering that I can't cite any sources.
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Jun 5, 2012 17:30
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BoostCreep posted:I meant SRT-4, not R/T. Didn't count the Fiat since it's not a Chrysler, it's a Fiat. And you got me on the Dart. I didn't think the turbo version came out til later. I think my point still stands though. The dart will use the 1.4l multi-air turbo out of the abarth as soon as they go on sale. Not quite sure what point you were making as nearly all of chrysler's older turbo cars (eagle, laser, stealth, etc) were all re-badged Mitsubishi's. Unless it's that chrysler needs to team up with mitsubishi again and make an evo spin off...
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Jun 5, 2012 17:44
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Safety Dance posted:I've always been under the impression that, if you were to start up a car and then remove the battery and run the car for a long time, that would shorten the life of the alternator. I could be wrong, especially considering that I can't cite any sources. If you remove the battery in any electric-start vehicle, then there's nothing to soak up voltage spikes. Kick-start dirt bikes that don't use a battery have a decent sized capacitor for this reason. You run the risk of overloading some electrical components. Also the sudden instant of removing the battery can cause a spike. Most of the time it'll be fine, but that odd time.. However, a dead battery will just act like a capacitor and be totally fine. I'm only talking about if you remove it completely. A dead battery will not affect your alternator.
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Jun 5, 2012 18:49
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Amandyke posted:The dart will use the 1.4l multi-air turbo out of the abarth as soon as they go on sale. Not quite sure what point you were making as nearly all of chrysler's older turbo cars (eagle, laser, stealth, etc) were all re-badged Mitsubishi's. Unless it's that chrysler needs to team up with mitsubishi again and make an evo spin off... My point was just that Chrysler was embracing turbo technology for decades while the other domestic auto makers were not. And now that turbos have become mainstream, only one actual Chrysler product is turbocharged. That's all. Just kind of funny how things flipped. And there were many turbo cars that were not Mitsubishis. Voyager, Caravan, Spirit, Shadow, LeBaron, Duster, etc. I remember seeing a TURBO badge on the side of a Caravan in college years ago and about shat myself. But it wouldn't surprise me if Chrysler did warm up to turbos so early due to their partnership with Mitsubishi.
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Jun 5, 2012 22:35
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BoostCreep posted:My point was just that Chrysler was embracing turbo technology for decades while the other domestic auto makers were not. And now that turbos have become mainstream, only one actual Chrysler product is turbocharged. That's all. Just kind of funny how things flipped. A fair point, and the irony is not lost as the dodge dart is a mildly modified Fiat Giulietta. So really, Chrysler makes no turbo cars of their own original design.
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Jun 6, 2012 00:59
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I'm getting P0103 and P0170 codes on my EJ22 '97 Impreza and the drivability at low revs has gone to poo poo (hesitation and bucking) when I clear those codes. I pulled the MAF out yesterday evening and took a look at it, and it seems fine with no easily visible dirt in the housing or either of the wires. I'd hit it with the MAF cleaner spray but I forgot where I've packed it. The codes haven't returned so maybe just removing and reseating it fixed it. My second guess is that I had a leak in my intake pipe or that the big leak in my exhaust system is somehow to blame, but I've had much hotter days than the last few recently and the code hasn't been thrown then. Early searching fingers a wonky O2 sensor as the culprit for P0170 but wouldn't necessarily indicate P0103, and P0170 only seems to happen after I've cleared P0103. Air filter is well seated and clean. Should worse come to worse, where's a good source of getting a new MAF? SGP wants $325, RockAuto $272 (although that may be for a MAP) and used ones seem a little flaky. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Jun 6, 2012 |
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Jun 6, 2012 06:05
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What's the best pitch stop for someone who wants to maximize benefits and minimize NVH? I'm also gay for good manufacturing and fit/finish. 2011 STi.
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Jun 8, 2012 00:16
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Aftermarket pitch stop and minimized NVH don't go together. But to answer your question, Kartboy.
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Jun 8, 2012 01:18
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How bad is it? I now daily drive my car, but also "race" it. Is the group N worth it? Is the kartboy just more vibration or more motor noise? is there clanking/clunking/clinking involved? Thats the one thing I can't take.
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Jun 8, 2012 01:21
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The group N is barely any different than stock. You will hear more engine noise and transmission whine, but no clunking/banging type noises. I got an AFI pitch stop for pretty much nothing because I know those guys and nearly took it off because of the noise. However, that one only has a single bushing and is solidly connected to the drivetrain, so it is probably worse. The KB has two larger and softer bushings. Plus after a couple weeks I got used to it. When it comes to mounts I kind of like to do them all at the same time. Part of my problem is probably just having the pitch stop and stock mounts for the engine and transmission, so being the stiffest mounting point it transfers the most load/noise/vibration. I wouldn't be surprised if going to stiff cusco or msi engine/trans mounts made it better.
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Jun 8, 2012 01:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm getting P0103 and P0170 codes on my EJ22 '97 Impreza and the drivability at low revs has gone to poo poo (hesitation and bucking) when I clear those codes. I went ahead and pulled the MAF off and hosed it down with MAF cleaner, seated everything back up and went for a drive. It bucked once as a P0103 CEL fired (probably changing maps to the limp map) but after the code was cleared I did about 30km with no problems at all. I guess it just was a dirty MAF though I think I will try to clean the IACV and the MAF connector as well. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 06:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This morning I started having trouble holding my idle and the car bucked and hesitated aggressively on my drive to work. On the drive back this evening the idle problem got worse to the point where it stalled while stopped in neutral and stumbled while engine braking. Those loving MAF sensors can be finicky.
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Jun 8, 2012 14:00
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Yeah, I'm just going to set the car on fire. I had one fairly violent stumble on the way into work today and the idle dropped pretty aggressively at an extended stoplight (to ~400rpm) before jerking right back up to its regular speed. How often does a MAF sensor just break? It seems pretty simple - I guess I can try to figure out where my multimeter is and look up the factory service manual to see if it works. If it's been running on the rich side all this time it would probably explain my dismal fuel economy as well.
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Jun 8, 2012 15:23
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Hey guys havin' a bit of an issue, completely forgot about this thread and originally posted it in the "slow is fast" thread. Four Banger posted:Hey I've got a quick Subaru question maybe you can give me a hand with? Here's his reply. Slow is Fast posted:Could be an axle could be the gearbox. I'm doubting it would be an axel as both those were just replaced in the last year or 2 (according to the paperwork I have from the PO), I'll see if I can get a video of it on my way home from work in about an hour.
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Jun 8, 2012 19:46
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Is it a scraping sound? Could be as simple as a bearing in the clutch.
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Jun 8, 2012 19:49
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Yeah it could be something in the clutch assembly too, I didn't think about that. I'm bad at internet mechanic-ing.
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Jun 8, 2012 20:02
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Four Banger posted:Hey guys havin' a bit of an issue, completely forgot about this thread and originally posted it in the "slow is fast" thread. An axle will usually only click at high steering angles or make a lot of vibration at a certain speed range. But it is possible to break one. I destroyed both front inner cvs jumping my car a couple years ago. What is it like? More of a gear while type thing or a humming sound? Wheel bearing comes to mind. They don't take kindly to high loads.
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Jun 8, 2012 23:17
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jamal posted:The group N is barely any different than stock. You will hear more engine noise and transmission whine, but no clunking/banging type noises. I got an AFI pitch stop for pretty much nothing because I know those guys and nearly took it off because of the noise. However, that one only has a single bushing and is solidly connected to the drivetrain, so it is probably worse. The KB has two larger and softer bushings. Plus after a couple weeks I got used to it. Well darn. I don't feel like doing the complete set. I guess I'll just wait untill I do. Thanks as always, jamal.
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Jun 9, 2012 00:43
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmjpwvmCMUw Last night I was able to get a video that you can hear it.
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Jun 9, 2012 17:07
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That doesn't sound very good. Possibly something in the transmission. The best way to track down a drivetrain noise is to get the car on a lift and drive it with someone underneath.
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Jun 9, 2012 21:00
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Four Banger posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmjpwvmCMUw Sounds like it's matching your revs.
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Jun 9, 2012 21:16
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jamal posted:That doesn't sound very good. Possibly something in the transmission. The best way to track down a drivetrain noise is to get the car on a lift and drive it with someone underneath. If the transmission needs to be replaced, any idea on how hard it would be to swap a 6 speed in? The second gen 2.5L Impreza's 6 speed should drop right in shouldn't it?
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Jun 10, 2012 00:04
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Four Banger posted:If the transmission needs to be replaced, any idea on how hard it would be to swap a 6 speed in? The second gen 2.5L Impreza's 6 speed should drop right in shouldn't it? I think you have to change a whole litany of things and not just drop in a 6 speed and drive away.
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Jun 10, 2012 00:24
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You can pretty much just swap in the transmission. You do need to change the clutch and the prop shaft and have the right final drive but it's not that bad. I've done a couple of swaps and you can do everything from basic trans swap to full drivetrain with hubs, brakes, r180 etc. Ebay and jdm importers are a pretty good source for these parts. As far as fixing the transmission, it's actually not that hard to take it out and apart, but I would get a better dianostic done first. I like to think I'm pretty good at being an internet mechanic but it's pretty hard to tell from a short video.
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Jun 10, 2012 01:18
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An STI 6 speed is a lot more expensive than a good used 5 speed, not to mention that the ratios are probably pretty unfavourable for an NA Forester.
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Jun 10, 2012 01:19
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That trans sounds very unhappy. If you are going to do anything about it, just drop in another 4.11 gearbox (or 3.9 if thats what the thing has, depends on the trim level) The 6 speed isn't worth it for you. At all. A replacement transmission would be anywhere from 400 to 800 depending on what you pick up. I did a complete forester XT 4.44 gearbox and rear end swap for 800 in parts and 1000 when all was said and done in my RS. If you want to DIY the transmission swap, follow this guide: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html I had never done anything more intensive then an oil change and brake pads and I followed that and did my own clutch job. (granted I had access to a lift and trans jack, but I've also done 4 jack stand trans swaps in january in maine) That guide you pull the gearbox so it works out for you. If you do go through with it, I'll give you my phone # if you have any oh poo poo oh poo poo oh poo poo questions while you're balls deep in subaru gearbox nightmares. While you're in there you can replace your clutch and a whole mess of other poo poo. Get a proper diagnosis first, a non-poo poo dealership should charge you half hours work to throw it on a lift and listen to it.
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Jun 10, 2012 01:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:An STI 6 speed is a lot more expensive than a good used 5 speed, not to mention that the ratios are probably pretty unfavourable for an NA Forester. Good thing you didn't say N/A Impreza! It's the final thing on my list of "unbreakable daily driver" and would be awesome for AutoX. I imagine the 6speed could handle some aggressive launches with all 120whp I'd be putting down 
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Jun 10, 2012 01:51
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Sockington posted:Good thing you didn't say N/A Impreza! A forester 4.44 box is a better option if you're staying NA. You have a 4.44 rear end already with your auto, just get the box and crap. You could buy a box and have a dealer rebuild it and it would still be cheaper and better geared for your car than an sti 6 speed.
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Jun 10, 2012 01:57
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Slow is Fast posted:A forester 4.44 box is a better option if you're staying NA. You have a 4.44 rear end already with your auto, just get the box and crap. You could buy a box and have a dealer rebuild it and it would still be cheaper and better geared for your car than an sti 6 speed. They're also miserable on the highway. But worth it for pooping on stupid kids who think their huge laggy turbo'd 2.0T is hot poo poo.
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Jun 10, 2012 01:58
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Well darn. I don't feel like doing the complete set. I guess I'll just wait untill I do. Oh there are benefits to just doing the pitch stop: Shifting feels a little better and if you have an aftermarket radiator it keeps the engine from pitching forward and cutting the upper hose with the alternator pulley.
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Jun 10, 2012 02:32
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