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Did you seriously buff out your converted keg? I'm not trying to criticize or be a dick, but at the same time I'm laughing pretty hard.
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Jun 2, 2012 04:43
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drewhead posted:Did you seriously buff out your converted keg? I'm not trying to criticize or be a dick, but at the same time I'm laughing pretty hard. I was thinking "drat, that's either a great camera, great lens, or both." But for real though, it's a pretty photo. They sell poo poo to clean old kegs up to look nice & shiny. I was thinking of doing that to my kegs at some point but they arrived fairly beat to poo poo externally. If they were on the lighter side of the 'used' spectrum it would be worth my time - Hypnolobster's appears like they were salvageable.
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Jun 2, 2012 05:34
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drewhead posted:Did you seriously buff out your converted keg? I'm not trying to criticize or be a dick, but at the same time I'm laughing pretty hard. People do this all the time. Two dudes in my LHBC were talking about getting the right pads, spending 5 hours to get them 'shiny' and so on. Not that I don't think it's a massive waste of time, some people just like things just so. I'm a slob by no means, but when I'm boiling sugar water in a metal can, I dunno if I care enough to make it shiny.
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Jun 2, 2012 11:02
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I know a guy whose rehab routine for Cornies includes polishing them. Not just cleaning and getting stickers off, but actually buffing them to a shine. Me, I'm a slob who can't be bothered to clean the outside of his serving fridge, much less things hiding away inside.
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Jun 2, 2012 14:38
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Docjowles posted:Sorry for the late reply, but here's a tripel recipe I was really happy with. Unfortunately I lost my notes due to a buggy old version of BeerSmith but it was a straightforward recipe as far as I remember. Excuse the noobness but how would I go about figuring out how much malt I need if I plan on doing an all-grain 5-gallon batch? Also, any alternatives for the Hallertauer hops? I can't seem to find any place online that has it for sale. I've done a few extract batches with guidance from the employees at my local homebrew store and I've just finished putting together my mash tun. This recipe seems simple enough for my first all-grain batch.
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Jun 2, 2012 17:02
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Corbet posted:Excuse the noobness but how would I go about figuring out how much malt I need if I plan on doing an all-grain 5-gallon batch? Well, you will of course have a target gravity in mind. For the sake of discussion, let's call it 1.065. The malts you select will have a theoretical yield - for many base malts, this is about 37 points per pound, per gallon (PPG). For simplicity, let's assume this is a grist using a single type of malt with a yield of 37PPG. But the theoretical yield is based on a laboratory mash that is not what you will do at home. Your rig and process will have an expected efficiency. For a lot of brewers, this is around 70-80%. I usually find my yield is about 78%. If this is your first all-grain batch, you won't really have a good idea what your expected yield is. It's best in this circumstance to plan for say 65-70%. So you know you want to get to 1.065. In five gallons, that is (65*5) 325 points of extract. Since your process may only be 65% efficient, divide by .65 to get the number of theoretical points you need in the tun (325/.65): 500. Then divide by the theoretical yield of the malt in question to get the weight you need (500/37): 13.5 pounds, near as makes no difference. Note that brewhouse efficiency includes boiloff - your preboil wort will not be 5 gallons at 1.065 - it might be 7 gallons at (325/7) 1.046. BeerSmith or any recipe builder will do this for you - just add malts and adjust your brewhouse efficiency, and it will predict your gravity to the fermenter. After your batch, you can figure your actual efficiency from volume to the fermenters and observed gravity. If you ended up with 5.5 gallons at 1.060, you actually managed to get (5.5*60) 330 points out of your grist. Since you had 500 theoretical points in the tun, your actual efficiency in this case would be (330/500) 66%. You can then use that number for planning your next batch. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jun 2, 2012 |
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Jun 2, 2012 17:14
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LHBS had Citra *and* Amarillo in stock! Decided to go with Citra as the main bittering hop (instead of cascade) and also use it for dry hopping. Today's gonna be a good brew day.
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Jun 2, 2012 19:17
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So my beer that went into the fermenter on Tuesday evening and has been working like a champ all week seems stopped this morning. The krausen seems to be totally gone and there's no activity in the airlock. Is this an expected behavior and I should just leave it? It's been like... no more than 90 hours. My inclination, given the typical advice for every issue in this thread is to just let it sit for another week, but I don't know. I guess I could take a gravity reading. Advice?
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Jun 2, 2012 21:23
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Aaargh. Curse of the brewday. May have had a few drinks while brewing so may not have brewed fully according to the instructions. The recipe called for 900 grams of wheat DME to start out of the 2.5kg total. Since the DME came in 500 gram packs I don't actually remember whether I boiled with one full one and most of another (900 grams) or with just 400 grams for the 65 minutes. According to Hopville the effect would be an IBU of 27 rather than about 21. Would there be any other effects that would affect the taste? I think I can deal with more bitterness, that's not the end of the world This was a really nice recipe last time, and I tried it with Wyeast 3068 for the first time (used WB06 last time) and had a blowout at t+18h. At least I get to practice emergency blowoff tube creation. Should really have written down what I was doing as it happened, but my right hand was busy lifting the pint to my lips... AlternateAccount posted:So my beer that went into the fermenter on Tuesday evening and has been working like a champ all week seems stopped this morning. The krausen seems to be totally gone and there's no activity in the airlock. Is this an expected behavior and I should just leave it? It's been like... no more than 90 hours. My inclination, given the typical advice for every issue in this thread is to just let it sit for another week, but I don't know. I guess I could take a gravity reading. Advice? What yeast did you use? Some yeasts are just complete beasts. I'd leave it for a good few days before trying the gravity just because it doesn't harm it at all and on the other hand the fewer times you open the drat thing the fewer chances there are of contamination.
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Jun 2, 2012 21:29
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AlternateAccount posted:So my beer that went into the fermenter on Tuesday evening and has been working like a champ all week seems stopped this morning. The krausen seems to be totally gone and there's no activity in the airlock. Is this an expected behavior and I should just leave it? It's been like... no more than 90 hours. My inclination, given the typical advice for every issue in this thread is to just let it sit for another week, but I don't know. I guess I could take a gravity reading. Advice? Its not done doing its thing yet, leave it alone.
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Jun 2, 2012 21:31
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Finished kegerator, with my basic Kolsch newly on tap. After waching that Northern Brewer video on decoctions (posted earlier in this thread) I've been interested in doing a keller beer, but I'm getting conflicting information. Some things I've been reading say that it's supposed to be served young, about 3 weeks after brewing, but I've also been reading that it's supposed to be stored in oak barrels at cellar temps for at least 2 months. Anyone brew one? Zakath fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jun 2, 2012 |
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Jun 2, 2012 21:40
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Kaiho posted:What yeast did you use? Some yeasts are just complete beasts. I'd leave it for a good few days before trying the gravity just because it doesn't harm it at all and on the other hand the fewer times you open the drat thing the fewer chances there are of contamination. Safale US-05. bengy81 posted:Its not done doing its thing yet, leave it alone. Alright. Thanks. Yeah, the yeast seemed to get right on top of it really quick and was just going nuts. I was going to move it to a 5gal carboy so I could use this 6 to start a second batch, but I think I am just going to leave it until I bottle it, maybe next weekend and just put the new batch in the smaller. I am not a patient man.
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Jun 2, 2012 21:42
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AlternateAccount posted:Safale US-05. I don't move stuff for a minimum of 10 days, although some places will recommend you leave it on the yeast cake for like 3-4 weeks, which is way longer than necessary in my experience.
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Jun 3, 2012 01:41
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Angry Grimace posted:I don't move stuff for a minimum of 10 days, although some places will recommend you leave it on the yeast cake for like 3-4 weeks, which is way longer than necessary in my experience. By "yeast cake" you mean the thick layer of poo poo at the bottom?
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Jun 3, 2012 03:10
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AlternateAccount posted:By "yeast cake" you mean the thick layer of poo poo at the bottom? Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jun 3, 2012 |
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Jun 3, 2012 03:58
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drewhead posted:Did you seriously buff out your converted keg? I'm not trying to criticize or be a dick, but at the same time I'm laughing pretty hard. Nah, the crazy bastards that do that use big buffing wheels and polishing compound and they're mirror finished. I used a couple dozen scotchbrite die grinder pads to get tons of sticker goo off of it. The keg had the remnants of a few dozen stickers and goo gone and various chemicals didn't get it actually clean without getting the bulk off first. Works really well for getting off rust spots and cleaning up the edge after you cut the top, too. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jun 3, 2012 |
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Jun 3, 2012 04:08
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Wow. Predicted OG was 1.064, and I ended up with 1.0631 - first time I've ever been within 0.001 of the predicted OG  e: recipe I ended up using: code:Mr. Glass fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jun 3, 2012 |
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Jun 3, 2012 04:30
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Note to self: it doesn't impress anyone or do anything to put a cascade hop in your mouth.
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Jun 3, 2012 05:27
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Angry Grimace posted:Note to self: it doesn't impress anyone or do anything to put a cascade hop in your mouth. Was it that bad? I've found dried hop flowers to be disappointingly mild in taste if anything (yes I have tried this too)
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Jun 3, 2012 09:05
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Kaiho posted:Was it that bad? I've found dried hop flowers to be disappointingly mild in taste if anything (yes I have tried this too) No, it was a pellet. My wife asked what they tasted like, so I popped one in my mouth. It tastes pretty much like it smells but the taste doesn't go away. I'm really annoyed with myself for that brew. Forgot the whirlfloc again (I can never seem to remember to put that poo poo in) and I doubled the late hops because I mixed up the recipe I was supposed to be making with the one I made last time. 
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Jun 3, 2012 12:35
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Zakath posted:Finished kegerator I like that kegerator. I'm in the process of making something similar with that exact freezer. Do you have any plans for what you did there? It looks like you raised the collar enough to put the co2 tank on the self and fit another corny in there.
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Jun 3, 2012 17:00
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Zakath posted:Finished kegerator Looks great man and my god, I want this. I really don't have any space in my new apt, but gosh I want to figure out a way to make it work hahaha.
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Jun 3, 2012 17:03
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ChiTownEddie posted:Looks great man and my god, I want this.
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Jun 3, 2012 17:13
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Keep your entire apartment at cellar temp at all times. Store beer wherever. Also black out all the windows because light is bad for beer too. Learn to navigate by echolocation.
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Jun 3, 2012 17:56
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Kelley Geuscaulk posted:I like that kegerator. I'm in the process of making something similar with that exact freezer. Do you have any plans for what you did there? It looks like you raised the collar enough to put the co2 tank on the self and fit another corny in there. I built the collar to have 3 layers, an outside 1x10 layer which fit around the outside of the freezer, an inside 1x8 layer that sits on the top edge of the freezer, and a 1/2" insulation sheet layer as the inside one. The 1x10 overlaps the 1x8 both on the top and bottom edges, which turned out to be a bad idea because it interfered with putting the hinges back on, so I had to cut about half an inch off the top of the back 1x10. However, the overlap on the bottom fits really well around the outside of the freezer, so much so that the collar is not glued down to the freezer. I used 1-1/4" rubber foam insulation strips on the bottom of the collar between inside layers and the top of the freezer. I used silicone caulk to seal the inside around where the foam meets the freezer where it meets the inside insulation layer. For the top of the collar on the inside, I used foil tape so that the freezer lid's gasket could form a good seal. I primed the collar and painted it with chalkboard paint. I used pine for everything, so there's a number of defects on the outside 1x10s that the paint doesn't really cover up and also sort of makes it a problem to draw on, but it works more or less. I would recommend using nicer boards for the outside. I bought the 19" counter-top drip tray on Amazon, and some angle brackets to attach it to the collar. The drip tray is attached to the angle brackets with velcro so I can remove it for cleaning. Zakath fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jun 3, 2012 |
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Jun 3, 2012 23:14
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ChiTownEddie posted:Looks great man and my god, I want this. If you don't have a lot of food, you can remove the crisper drawers and bottom shelves and just leave the top shelf. Then you can probably fit 2 kegs and a CO2 tank with picnic taps. This only works if you live alone and you like beer more than food.
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Jun 4, 2012 00:56
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Angry Grimace posted:No, it was a pellet. My wife asked what they tasted like, so I popped one in my mouth. It tastes pretty much like it smells but the taste doesn't go away. I'm really annoyed with myself for that brew. Forgot the whirlfloc again (I can never seem to remember to put that poo poo in) and I doubled the late hops because I mixed up the recipe I was supposed to be making with the one I made last time. I put a whirlfloc tablet next to where I'm weighing out hops, that way I see it when I go to add a late addition and just toss it in the container with the hops to go into the kettle. And yeah I've eaten a few hop pellets. It's not BRUTAL but neither is it enjoyable 
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Jun 4, 2012 01:24
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Angry Grimace posted:Note to self: it doesn't impress anyone or do anything to put a cascade hop in your mouth. Do a shot of hop extract and you'll impress the gently caress out of me. I learned that whenever the brewer leading your tour says something like "Hey man, try this...", you shouldn't ignore that little voice in your head that is trying to save your taste buds from annihilation.
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Jun 4, 2012 03:22
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Docjowles posted:I put a whirlfloc tablet next to where I'm weighing out hops, that way I see it when I go to add a late addition and just toss it in the container with the hops to go into the kettle. Tannin powder is also something not enjoyable, fyi.
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Jun 4, 2012 07:56
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A shot of fish finings!
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Jun 4, 2012 10:44
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I drank a cup of StarSan, now I don't feel so good
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Jun 4, 2012 11:47
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Cracked open a bottle of my fourth batch of homebrew last night, and thankfully unlike #3 it's not poo poo! However, I'm disappointed with how much gunk is floating around in it. I dry hopped 1oz of Centennial pellets in it, and there was a bunch of that in the bottom of my glass. It's also really not at all clear, even though I used some irish moss this time around. I feel like there must be some step I'm neglecting in order to filter out all the solids. I used a funnel with screen to filter out the hops etc when transferring wort from my brew kettle to bucket. That was kind of a tedious and time consuming process, with my screen getting filled constantly and me having to wash it out and then resanitize. There must be some better way to do it. Then, when transferring to secondary I just used a regular auto-siphon, leaving most of the yeast cake in the bottom of the bucket. I threw the pellets into the liquid at that point. When I went to bottle, the dissolved pellets were still in suspension, which I think is what I'm now seeing in my bottles (as opposed to bits of yeast). So, maybe even when using pellets to dry hop, I should be putting them into a bag of some kind? And what about clarity otherwise, is it mostly going to be impossible when using extract? Is this where 'cold crashing' could help?
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Jun 4, 2012 13:26
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Sirotan posted:Cracked open a bottle of my fourth batch of homebrew last night, and thankfully unlike #3 it's not poo poo! However, I'm disappointed with how much gunk is floating around in it. I dry hopped 1oz of Centennial pellets in it, and there was a bunch of that in the bottom of my glass. It's also really not at all clear, even though I used some irish moss this time around. I did a 3oz pellet dryhop with no hop bag. All I did was sanitize a paint strainer bag and used it as a screen on my auto siphon when I transferred the beer out of secondary to the bottling bucket.
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Jun 4, 2012 14:47
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crazyfish posted:I did a 3oz pellet dryhop with no hop bag. All I did was sanitize a paint strainer bag and used it as a screen on my auto siphon when I transferred the beer out of secondary to the bottling bucket. Ok, that sounds way easier than anything I was imagining I'd have to do. I'll try that out on my next batch. You just picked that up at a hardware store or something?
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Jun 4, 2012 15:02
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Could I get a more experienced brewer's look at this recipe? http://hopville.com/recipe/1336458/home-brew/amarillo-apa-to-be-edited I'm looking to make something with the fruity and floral notes from the Amarillo, but I also like things bitter and piney. Hence the simcoe. I guess what I'm asking is whether my amounts of ingredients and timings for hops are at all what others would do...
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Jun 4, 2012 15:31
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Sirotan posted:Ok, that sounds way easier than anything I was imagining I'd have to do. I'll try that out on my next batch. You just picked that up at a hardware store or something? I used 5 gallon paint strainer bags I got from home depot for about 3 bucks for a two pack or something around that price. You can use them for small brew in a bag or specialty grain steeping too 
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Jun 4, 2012 15:38
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Jacobey000 posted:People do this all the time. Two dudes in my LHBC were talking about getting the right pads, spending 5 hours to get them 'shiny' and so on. Not that I don't think it's a massive waste of time, some people just like things just so. I'm a slob by no means, but when I'm boiling sugar water in a metal can, I dunno if I care enough to make it shiny. Coming at it from a foodservice perspective, I'd probably want them shiny because the cleaner anything starts, the easier it is to tell when it's got poo poo on it.
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Jun 4, 2012 15:46
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Kaiho posted:Could I get a more experienced brewer's look at this recipe? Looks pretty good for the most part. Here are a few general notes though: - If you want a rough, pronounced flavor from your bittering addition, you might want to consider Chinook - Simcoe would be my second choice if that were the flavor I was going for - Consider adding more flavor hops - 1/3oz at 15 minutes is a little small, perhaps swap in some extra Simcoe from your bittering addition. For an APA I'd wouldn't use any less than a full ounce of flavoring hops. - I like the choice to dry hop with Simcoe - Simcoe's aroma is its greatest asset IMO, probably the only aroma I would consider superior to Amarillo's
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Jun 4, 2012 20:50
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The Candyman posted:I drank a cup of StarSan, now I don't feel so good Time to start shooting cups of probiotic yogurt while making GBS threads liquid every ten minutes! 
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Jun 5, 2012 01:39
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Yesterday was brew day. Was going for something of a PtE clone but wanted to make it a bit maltier. I do Brew In A Bag, and thought I'd share a couple photos in case there's curiosities about the process. I would have taken more but I was too busy forgetting to add ingredients at the right time to remember. Clockwise from the muffin tin, that's used to pre-measure my hops and remind me when they go in, an auxiliary bucket I keep my mash paddle and water measuring stick in, the propane, the Thermapen thermometer (which is awesome btw), a rubbermaid which I milled my grain into, some big binder clips for holding the bag in place in the strainer, some corn syrup I forgot to add until a bit later in the mash, the tablespoon for the hops, the pH 5.2 stabilizer, wort chiller, burner lighter, and my gear bucket.  Thermapen reading after... -Killing the heat on the burner and putting the pot on the ground -Wrapping the pot in reflective insulation -Totally missing my temps - it went from about 145° to 160° in 2 minutes This is also a good shot of the voile used as a bag, clipped to the straining bucket which has a handle and makes the lifting of the grains out a bit easier. I lifted it up, my wife unclipped the bag from the bucket and bunched the ends of the bag together, then we switched what we were holding as she discarded the bucket while I held up the bag. Let it drain a bit more, then she started squeezing the poo poo out of the bag. Did that for about five minutes, as I saw my pre-boil amount was almost exactly where I wanted it. Ended up adding a half gallon before the boil as a precaution that ended up giving me 5.1 gallons, post-boil. After straining the wort en route to it getting in the carboy, I was left with a touch under 5 gallons. Happy with the volume.  Another shot of the reflective insulation (with bonus slots cut out for the handles!). The lid was a bit concave, so I put more layers of insulation on there too. Put the propane tank on top of the lid (not pictured) to get a good seal on the lid. I lost 0° over 90 minutes of letting it sit, and I even stirred at 60 & 30 minutes left. I got photo-lazy after this. Boiled for 90, strained through a strainer into the carboy, pitched my yeast (WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast) which had been on the stir plate for the last 24 hours, aerated it with the stainless steel stir stick from Midwest Brewing (which is FUN AS gently caress to use when you crank it up on your drill - I want to use in my pool for shits & giggles), slapped the stopper & blowoff tube on, and I was done. This morning, about 12 hours later, I walked into the bathroom where it was fermenting and saw this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSlgxSQE5Ys  Ignore the tiny carboy with the giveaway SDSU jersey over it...the activity completely overflowed the mason jar it was in, and ended up...well, it's pretty clear where it went. That was fun to clean up before work this morning. Anyway, in summary, another fun brew day, and I now know that if I'm using a yeast start + an aeration stick + a big gently caress-off yeast like WLP090, to put the mason jar IN the sink.
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Jun 5, 2012 01:46
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