The HARDWARE Short Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > The HARDWARE Short Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

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My Spirit Otter: Jun 15, 2006; CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Does anybody know anything about RFID readers/fobs? I need a standalone reader with a 2-3 foot range to enable a button.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 00:46

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# ? Jun 5, 2024 00:36

Bob Morales: Aug 18, 2006; ~~Just wear the fucking mask, Bob~~

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

balakadaka posted:

If you're running a database on a 16 core system, you need much more than this thread. Everything Bob Morales said, and put your data files and log files on separate spindles (drives or RAID containers). Then go look up Glen Berry and read a bunch of his recommendations

I'd guess the DB system is only going to take 2, maybe 3 cores (assuming it's MySQL). Everything else is driving the load up.

My Spirit Otter posted:

Does anybody know anything about RFID readers/fobs? I need a standalone reader with a 2-3 foot range to enable a button.

I usually bought readers from RFIDeas through CDW

# ? Jun 6, 2012 01:48

Harold Fjord: Jan 3, 2004

Why can't I swap audio devices, specifically between a headset and speakers, with my computer turned on?

My front ports don't work for various other reasons and this is getting really annoying.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 04:38

real_scud: Sep 5, 2002; One of these days these elbows are gonna walk all over you

Nevvy Z posted:

Why can't I swap audio devices, specifically between a headset and speakers, with my computer turned on?

My front ports don't work for various other reasons and this is getting really annoying.

If you're using onboard sound, and have a Realtek chipset on your mobo [which most decent mobo's have nowadays] you should be able to without any problem.

You just go to the Realtek control panel from the system tray, click on Advanced Settings, and toggle the "Mute the rear output device, when a front headphone plugged in". It'll mute the back speakers if you plug something into the headphone jack.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 04:52

mellowjournalism: Jul 31, 2004; helllooo

I can use SATA 6.0 Gb/s cables on my Spinpoint F3 (3.0 Gb/s) right? Will it even matter if I plug it into a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port on my mobo?

Hell is there even a difference between "6.0 Gb/s" cables and 3.0 Gb/s cables? It sounds like a SATA cable is a SATA cable is a SATA cable.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 08:36

Golbez: Oct 9, 2002; 1 2 3!
If you want to take a shot at me get in line, line
1 2 3!
Baby, I've had all my shots and I'm fine

Bob Morales posted:

I'd guess the DB system is only going to take 2, maybe 3 cores (assuming it's MySQL). Everything else is driving the load up.

I won't profess that the queries are good. Some of them are bad and very inefficient, though in my defense I didn't write those. :v:

Also, we're running an older version of MySQL that I'm sure is not nearly as efficient with multiple cores as more recent ones.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 15:38

flakeloaf: Feb 26, 2003; Still better than android clock

yellowjournalism posted:

Hell is there even a difference between "6.0 Gb/s" cables and 3.0 Gb/s cables?

Maybe:

Cables already at the threshold of 3Gb/s operating margins may experience lower performance than expected at 6Gb/s due to an increased number of resends. Cable vendors will want to consider removing any question of quality by marking their packaging to explicitly state a product's 6Gb/s CIC compliance. Vendors can also have their cables added to the Integrators List on the SATA-IO web site. End-users, for their part, will want to consult the Integrators List � this list is available to the public � before buying new cabling.

Edit: Clarity

flakeloaf fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jun 6, 2012

# ? Jun 6, 2012 16:06

Bob Morales: Aug 18, 2006; ~~Just wear the fucking mask, Bob~~

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

yellowjournalism posted:

I can use SATA 6.0 Gb/s cables on my Spinpoint F3 (3.0 Gb/s) right? Will it even matter if I plug it into a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port on my mobo?

Hell is there even a difference between "6.0 Gb/s" cables and 3.0 Gb/s cables? It sounds like a SATA cable is a SATA cable is a SATA cable.

There are good cables and 'bad' cables though - someone had charts before.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 16:08

dietcokefiend: Apr 28, 2004; HEY ILL HAV 2 TXT U L8TR I JUST DROVE IN 2 A DAYCARE AND SCRATCHED MY RAZR

Are there any decent guides out there for cable routing, cable management, wraps, etc? I went from dealing with a handful of consumer workstations and two servers on a shelf to a 42U rack in the past month. The rack is a mess, might always be a mess, but I still need to figure out a way to deal with it.

The environment is rather unique. I have two switches and a KVM that will pretty much stay in there for good, 4 servers that will always be in it, but are pulled multiple times a day for component swaps, and everything else that might be in for a few weeks at a time. I really need a way to manage networking and power cables to everything in some organized way so its not a massive rat's nest.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 17:24

Rotten Red Rod: Mar 5, 2002

Very basic question: Can someone recommend a compact Windows PC that has enough speed to run smoothly on a 70 inch LCD screen through HDMI? It's going to be in a cabinet below the screen, so it needs to be somewhat smaller than a standard PC and not generate an absurd amount of heat. We're currently using this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883108728 and it stutters while playing videos and presentations. Is there one anyone could recommend that would work better?

# ? Jun 6, 2012 19:59

Intern Dan: Mar 30, 2010

Rotten Red Rod posted:

Very basic question: Can someone recommend a compact Windows PC that has enough speed to run smoothly on a 70 inch LCD screen through HDMI? It's going to be in a cabinet below the screen, so it needs to be somewhat smaller than a standard PC and not generate an absurd amount of heat. We're currently using this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883108728 and it stutters while playing videos and presentations. Is there one anyone could recommend that would work better?

Screen size is irrelevant, it's the resolution and how whatever you're playing is packaged that matters. The ION/Atom combo can actually handle 1080p video just fine as long as it's put together so that hardware decoding is used. I use a similar platform for my HTPC and it's only stuttered on HD video played in a web browser after installing the CCCP http://www.cccp-project.net/ By presentations, do you mean Powerpoint? Using the CCCP should help there if it's stuttering on video as it ties in with Media Player, though if it's other things like slide transition effects or whatever it won't fix it. Before buying a new device I'd recommend installing the codec pack and trying a couple of the tasks that caused it to stutter before.

Anything based on a lower end i5 processor will work just fine if you do end up needing to replace the device, though I don't personally know of any tiny form-factor ready made products for that.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 20:51

Shaocaholica: Oct 29, 2002; Fig. 5E

I pulled this drive out of a security camera DVR box after it sorta failed. The drive passes all WD Diag tests including full surface scan and full erase. Here's what CDI says:

code:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) WDC WD5000AAKB-00H8A0
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
           Model : WDC WD5000AAKB-00H8A0
        Firmware : 05.04E05
   Serial Number : WD-WCASY7347535
       Disk Size : 500.1 GB (8.4/137.4/500.1)
     Buffer Size : 16384 KB
     Queue Depth : 1
    # of Sectors : 976773168
   Rotation Rate : Unknown
       Interface : Parallel ATA
   Major Version : ATA8-ACS
   Minor Version : ----
   Transfer Mode : Ultra DMA/133
  Power On Hours : 6930 hours
  Power On Count : 44 count
     Temparature : 42 C (107 F)
   Health Status : Good
        Features : S.M.A.R.T., AAM, 48bit LBA
       APM Level : ----
       AAM Level : 80FEh [ON]

-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID Cur Wor Thr RawValues(6) Attribute Name
01 200 200 _51 000000000000 Read Error Rate
03 180 159 _21 000000000F76 Spin-Up Time
04 100 100 __0 000000000036 Start/Stop Count
05 200 200 140 000000000000 Reallocated Sectors Count
07 100 253 __0 000000000000 Seek Error Rate
09 _91 _91 __0 000000001B12 Power-On Hours
0A 100 253 __0 000000000000 Spin Retry Count
0B 100 253 __0 000000000000 Recalibration Retries
0C 100 100 __0 00000000002C Power Cycle Count
C0 200 200 __0 00000000002B Power-off Retract Count
C1 200 200 __0 000000000036 Load/Unload Cycle Count
C2 105 _98 __0 00000000002A Temperature
C4 200 200 __0 000000000000 Reallocation Event Count
C5 200 200 __0 000000000000 Current Pending Sector Count
C6 200 200 __0 000000000000 Uncorrectable Sector Count
C7 200 200 __0 000000000000 UltraDMA CRC Error Count
C8 200 200 __0 000000000000 Write Error Rate

Is this thing at the end of its life?

# ? Jun 6, 2012 22:35

testtubebaby: Apr 7, 2008; Where we're going,
we won't need eyes to see.

Weird problem just started for me:

Games no longer have audio via my 7850's HDMI connection... VLC videos have audio, Windows start up and shutdown noises play, and Youtube videos have sound, but nothing from any of the games I've tried (Diablo 3, Just Cause 2, and Batman Arkham City)

Nothing has been changed since yesterday when everything was working fine.

Disabled and reenabled my primary audio in Catalyst and it solved it... odd.

testtubebaby fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Jun 6, 2012

# ? Jun 6, 2012 22:53

Factory Factory: Mar 19, 2010; This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.

Shaocaholica posted:

I pulled this drive out of a security camera DVR box after it sorta failed. The drive passes all WD Diag tests including full surface scan and full erase. Here's what CDI says:
...
Is this thing at the end of its life?

Nothing amiss on SMART, but SMART only catches about half of drive failures anyway. If replacing the drive solves problems, it dead.

# ? Jun 6, 2012 23:52

Experto Crede: Aug 19, 2008; Keep on Truckin'

Trying to build a system using a headless laptop as the base. Works fine with the original LCD plugged in, but no joy with just a VGA monitor.

Anyone know what, if anything, I can do to get this going? It's a compaq cq70 if that helps.

# ? Jun 7, 2012 02:44

Rotten Red Rod: Mar 5, 2002

Intern Dan posted:

Screen size is irrelevant, it's the resolution and how whatever you're playing is packaged that matters. The ION/Atom combo can actually handle 1080p video just fine as long as it's put together so that hardware decoding is used. I use a similar platform for my HTPC and it's only stuttered on HD video played in a web browser after installing the CCCP http://www.cccp-project.net/ By presentations, do you mean Powerpoint? Using the CCCP should help there if it's stuttering on video as it ties in with Media Player, though if it's other things like slide transition effects or whatever it won't fix it. Before buying a new device I'd recommend installing the codec pack and trying a couple of the tasks that caused it to stutter before.

Anything based on a lower end i5 processor will work just fine if you do end up needing to replace the device, though I don't personally know of any tiny form-factor ready made products for that.

It's not so much that I need something to stop specifically video stuttering as I need a faster computer, and I was wondering offhand if there were any prebuilt ones people could recommend. I guess I'll look for an i5 that comes in a smaller case.

# ? Jun 7, 2012 03:14

Space Gopher: Jul 31, 2006; BLITHERING IDIOT AND HARDCORE DURIAN APOLOGIST. LET ME TELL YOU WHY THIS SHIT DON'T STINK EVEN THOUGH WE ALL KNOW IT DOES BECAUSE I'M SUPER CULTURED.

Rotten Red Rod posted:

It's not so much that I need something to stop specifically video stuttering as I need a faster computer, and I was wondering offhand if there were any prebuilt ones people could recommend. I guess I'll look for an i5 that comes in a smaller case.

If it only needs to be "somewhat smaller" than a standard PC, Dell offers quite a few small-form-factor Optiplex systems. They're DisplayPort and VGA only, but the DP port is dual-mode, so you can use a cheap passive adapter cable.

If it needs to be as small as possible, I'd look at Boot Camping a Mac Mini. There used to be some prebuilt systems about the same size from other manufacturers, but these days it seems like your options are a low-performance Atom or Brazos barebones, or Apple.

# ? Jun 7, 2012 03:33

298298: Aug 14, 2011; by Y Kant Ozma Post

I don't know what the gently caress thread this should go in so I'm just putting it here:

I need a 64-128gb flash drive with USB 3.0 that read/writes at actual or close to actual USB 3.0 speeds and isn't ridiculously expensive.

All the amazon/newegg shopping I do either has them well over $100 while barely being over USB 2.0 speeds, or USB 2.0, or really bad reviews, or sold out on both amazon/newegg and only sold by 3rd party sellers (which apparently you're not supposed to buy since flash drives are lovely knockoffs repackaged as legit).

It's almost impossible to sort them out price/GB wise on amazon too. Any suggestions? It's being used for moving just basic video files around 350mb+

# ? Jun 7, 2012 06:39

dont be mean to me: May 2, 2007; I'm interplanetary, bitch
Let's go to Mars

298298 posted:

I don't know what the gently caress thread this should go in so I'm just putting it here:

I need a 64-128gb flash drive with USB 3.0 that read/writes at actual or close to actual USB 3.0 speeds and isn't ridiculously expensive.

All the amazon/newegg shopping I do either has them well over $100 while barely being over USB 2.0 speeds, or USB 2.0, or really bad reviews, or sold out on both amazon/newegg and only sold by 3rd party sellers (which apparently you're not supposed to buy since flash drives are lovely knockoffs repackaged as legit).

It's almost impossible to sort them out price/GB wise on amazon too. Any suggestions? It's being used for moving just basic video files around 350mb+

SSD and either 2.5" SATA USB 3.0 enclosure or eSATA/USB 3.0 SATA docks at either end.

If you can find an SSD with a microUSB 3.0 port on it so much the better, but it's hard enough finding them with USB 2.0.

dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Jun 7, 2012

# ? Jun 7, 2012 07:49

sirbeefalot: Aug 24, 2004; Fast Learner.; Fun Shoe

Is there such a thing as an adapter to turn a standard USB connection into a wireless link? Like, a transmitter that I can plug into my PC, and a receiver with a USB-B plug to attach to the peripheral? Is this even possible? I want to use it with a vinyl cutter, so pretty low usage, and generally just one-way data transfer.

All searches for permutations of "USB Wireless Adapter" are coming up with wifi dongles.

# ? Jun 7, 2012 14:47

Nintendo Kid: Aug 4, 2011; by Smythe

Experto Crede posted:

Trying to build a system using a headless laptop as the base. Works fine with the original LCD plugged in, but no joy with just a VGA monitor.

Anyone know what, if anything, I can do to get this going? It's a compaq cq70 if that helps.

Bet you anything there's a key combo you need to press or BIOS setting to go through.

Generally the key combo would cycle through options of Laptop LCD Only -> Laptop LCD and External Monitor Simultaneous > External Monitor Only

On that laptop, it appears that Fn-F4 is the combo to switch up displays for that, so try that.

sirbeefalot posted:

Is there such a thing as an adapter to turn a standard USB connection into a wireless link? Like, a transmitter that I can plug into my PC, and a receiver with a USB-B plug to attach to the peripheral? Is this even possible?

All searches for permutations of "USB Wireless Adapter" are coming up with wifi dongles.

People make these but the uses tend to be limited. Generally, people only manage to get USB 1.1 speeds (very slow, really only good for keyboard/mouse/slow storage) out of them, the range is limited, and they're flaky.

# ? Jun 7, 2012 14:47

Yodzilla: Apr 29, 2005; Now who looks even dumber?

Beef Witch

I'm seeing some weirdness with my computer and I don't know if it's hardware related or what. The first thing I noticed that the movies in Diablo III barely played and were stuttery as hell. Then I installed Skyrim and that's very stuttery when moving through the world too. I tried playing other videos off of my hard drive and those seem to be fine so I don't know why Diablo's would be so busted.

Here is my setup:

Mobo: MSI P67A-G43 LGA 1155 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130583
Proc: Intel Core i5-2500K http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072
RAM (16 gigs) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231312
HD: Corsair Force Series 3 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233206
Video: nVidia GTX 560ti http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-560ti/specifications

Could something be bottlenecking my system here? I thought it'd be smoking and it was working great a while ago but I swear it's just gotten...worse recently.

# ? Jun 7, 2012 18:56

Gromit: Aug 15, 2000; I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!

298298 posted:

I need a 64-128gb flash drive with USB 3.0 that read/writes at actual or close to actual USB 3.0 speeds and isn't ridiculously expensive.

All the amazon/newegg shopping I do either has them well over $100 while barely being over USB 2.0 speeds, or USB 2.0, or really bad reviews, or sold out on both amazon/newegg and only sold by 3rd party sellers (which apparently you're not supposed to buy since flash drives are lovely knockoffs repackaged as legit).

No idea what you've looked at, but the Patriot Magnum Supersonic seems to rate highly and is well under $100.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 00:57

fleur_de_leet: Jun 8, 2005; All the pale things under the earth
Will reverse

Is there any signal/quality degredation via HDMI or DVI cables over longer distances? I want to run a cable from my computer to my TV. The distance isn't too bad - maybe 5-6m.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 17:01

Incessant Excess: Aug 15, 2005; Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness

BlueTesla posted:

Is there any signal/quality degredation via HDMI or DVI cables over longer distances? I want to run a cable from my computer to my TV. The distance isn't too bad - maybe 5-6m.

I've used a 5m DVI to HDMI cable in the past, zero issues for me.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 17:03

Intern Dan: Mar 30, 2010

BlueTesla posted:

Is there any signal/quality degredation via HDMI or DVI cables over longer distances? I want to run a cable from my computer to my TV. The distance isn't too bad - maybe 5-6m.

I regularly use 50ft HDMI cables with no perceptible problem. You should be good.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 21:11

Factory Factory: Mar 19, 2010; This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.

With digital signals, it either works or it doesn't. The length may result in a bad image or no image on screen, but that will be really obvious. Thicker-gauge cables will help you get a longer run more reliably.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 21:27

sirbeefalot: Aug 24, 2004; Fast Learner.; Fun Shoe

I get an obvious input lag outputting to my TV over 25 feet of HDMI, though it's only an actual problem if I try to play a game (which I don't do on the TV, as a result). For movies and other stuff that doesn't require instant mouse feedback, though, it's fine. Quality is great, too.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 22:36

Space Gopher: Jul 31, 2006; BLITHERING IDIOT AND HARDCORE DURIAN APOLOGIST. LET ME TELL YOU WHY THIS SHIT DON'T STINK EVEN THOUGH WE ALL KNOW IT DOES BECAUSE I'M SUPER CULTURED.

sirbeefalot posted:

I get an obvious input lag outputting to my TV over 25 feet of HDMI, though it's only an actual problem if I try to play a game (which I don't do on the TV, as a result). For movies and other stuff that doesn't require instant mouse feedback, though, it's fine. Quality is great, too.

That's a function of your TV's input processing, not the length of the cable. Signals travel down a wire at about the speed of light; at 25 feet, that means your cable is contributing about 0.000025 milliseconds of lag. Transmission delays are only perceptible to humans over distances that span a good fraction of a continent or an ocean. As a very rough rule of thumb, 1000 miles is 5 milliseconds.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 22:48

testtubebaby: Apr 7, 2008; Where we're going,
we won't need eyes to see.

Built a computer with two hard drives: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9axd

Both hard drives show up in the BIOS and during Windows Installation, but once Windows boots all I can see is the C drive (the SSD)... do I need to do something to make the other drive show up and be usable in Windows?

# ? Jun 8, 2012 22:59

Space Gopher: Jul 31, 2006; BLITHERING IDIOT AND HARDCORE DURIAN APOLOGIST. LET ME TELL YOU WHY THIS SHIT DON'T STINK EVEN THOUGH WE ALL KNOW IT DOES BECAUSE I'M SUPER CULTURED.

zenintrude posted:

Built a computer with two hard drives: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/9axd

Both hard drives show up in the BIOS and during Windows Installation, but once Windows boots all I can see is the C drive (the SSD)... do I need to do something to make the other drive show up and be usable in Windows?

You'll need to partition and format the drive.

Start, right-click Computer, select Manage, go to Disk Mangement. You should see a physical disk with a bunch of unallocated space. Right click it, select "New Simple Volume," and follow the wizard.

# ? Jun 8, 2012 23:03

Samurai Sanders: Nov 4, 2003; Pillbug

I'm thinking of replacing my wireless router (a linksys WRT54G2) for possibly a stupid reason and I need your advice. For as long as I have had a wireless mouse (years now), downloading at high speed (>1.5mb/s or so, or momentarily if a page loads really fast) through the router has caused the mouse resolution to drop off to the point where I can't even move it around the screen effectively sometimes. I asked about it a long time ago here and I was told to change the channel on the router and I did so, I have now tested a whole bunch of channels to no effect. Also this is a new mouse I only got a month ago or something. I don't get it because this is a crazy common router, and this is a crazy common mouse (Logitech M705), if they interfered with each other wouldn't lots of people have this problem? Or could it be something else?

Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jun 9, 2012

# ? Jun 9, 2012 18:51

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Samurai Sanders posted:

I'm thinking of replacing my wireless router (a linksys WRT54G2) for possibly a stupid reason and I need your advice. For as long as I have had a wireless mouse (years now), downloading at high speed (>1.5mb/s or so, or momentarily if a page loads really fast) through the router has caused the mouse resolution to drop off to the point where I can't even move it around the screen effectively sometimes. I asked about it a long time ago here and I was told to change the channel on the router and I did so, I have now tested a whole bunch of channels to no effect. Also this is a new mouse I only got a month ago or something. I don't get it because this is a crazy common router, and this is a crazy common mouse (Logitech M705), if they interfered with each other wouldn't lots of people have this problem? Or could it be something else?

Your mouse uses the same 2.4Ghz frequency band as legacy WiFi networks, so your only option to improve the situation would be to buy a new dual-band (old 2.4Ghz and current 5Ghz) router and make sure all of your devices have 5Ghz adapters. There are lots of classes of devices (including Bluetooth and some cordless phones) that use the 2.4Ghz band, and most people just expect and live with terrible wireless performance. The main reason WiFi moved to the 5Ghz band was to avoid all the interference from existing devices as well as to provide many more channels. Currently there are only three non-overlapping channels (1, 6, 11), so if you can't have more than three wireless networks in an area without interference.

# ? Jun 9, 2012 20:32

Samurai Sanders: Nov 4, 2003; Pillbug

Alereon posted:

Your mouse uses the same 2.4Ghz frequency band as legacy WiFi networks, so your only option to improve the situation would be to buy a new dual-band (old 2.4Ghz and current 5Ghz) router and make sure all of your devices have 5Ghz adapters. There are lots of classes of devices (including Bluetooth and some cordless phones) that use the 2.4Ghz band, and most people just expect and live with terrible wireless performance.

Oh okay, this is what I expected. I almost bought a dual-band router while I was out a few days ago but thought I'd ask in here one more time. How would I know if my devices (primarily my laptop, iphone, and ps3) support the 5ghz band?

# ? Jun 9, 2012 20:33

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Samurai Sanders posted:

Oh okay, this is what I expected. I almost bought a dual-band router while I was out a few days ago but thought I'd ask in here one more time. How would I know if my devices (primarily my laptop, iphone, and ps3) support the 5ghz band?

Google the device model or adapter name. I don't think your iPhone and PS3 are likely to, but your laptop probably does. If a device says it has 802.11a, or Wireless-A support then it definitely does. If you put the 2.4Ghz network of your new router onto the least crowded channel and only leave your less-used devices on it that should really improve the situation.

# ? Jun 9, 2012 20:36

Samurai Sanders: Nov 4, 2003; Pillbug

I'm having a hard time finding out actually, the support page for my model (an Acer Aspire 3830TG) lists multiple possible adapters, some of which are a and some are not, I can't figure out which one I have.

edit: never mind I found out, but it looks like it is not a. In that case a new router wouldn't do any good, I assume?

Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Jun 9, 2012

# ? Jun 9, 2012 20:59

Factory Factory: Mar 19, 2010; This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.

Dumb question: are you sure the mouse battery isn't dying?

# ? Jun 9, 2012 21:05

Samurai Sanders: Nov 4, 2003; Pillbug

Factory Factory posted:

Dumb question: are you sure the mouse battery isn't dying?

It's been a problem consistently for years and seems unrelated to when the mouse battery is low, so yeah. Besides, this mouse is supposed to last for six billion years on one set of batteries, and I just got it and put fresh batteries in.

For what should be a really common problem in this modern world full of wireless devices everywhere, the first few people I told about this problem sure looked at me weird. I still find it a little hard to believe that other people are having this problem and just not noticing. I mean, who would think that your mouse performance would be tied to how fast your computer is downloading something?

# ? Jun 9, 2012 21:08

Factory Factory: Mar 19, 2010; This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.

Maybe the receiver is getting interference from your computer's wireless antenna, rather than wifi generally? Try moving the receiver to different USB ports, or even hooking it to a hub or extension cable if you can.

While I am seeing this problem on multiple Logitech mice in my Googling, I'm not seeing any resolutions.

# ? Jun 9, 2012 22:54

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# ? Jun 5, 2024 00:36

Samurai Sanders: Nov 4, 2003; Pillbug

Factory Factory posted:

Maybe the receiver is getting interference from your computer's wireless antenna, rather than wifi generally? Try moving the receiver to different USB ports, or even hooking it to a hub or extension cable if you can.

While I am seeing this problem on multiple Logitech mice in my Googling, I'm not seeing any resolutions.

My laptop has integrated wireless, but I guess its possible that my laptop is too close to my router most of the time and that's doing it. It can't really be helped though, my apartment is so small. When I hook my laptop in by an ethernet cable the problem goes away obviously, but I come and go with my laptop so much and I like having as few cables as possible that I'd rather not do that all the time.

The reason why I haven't really resolved this is because in the back of my head I know that all we're really talking about is me not wanting to add one more cable to the morass of cables that are behind my desk.

Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jun 9, 2012

# ? Jun 9, 2012 23:01

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > The HARDWARE Short Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

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