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commissargribb posted:>200,000 miles now I'm guessing. It starts up fine in the summer but I think i'll need to tweak it a bit more to get it to run more reliably. That's pretty much a given with a carbed 4.2L though. You never really have it set up "perfectly". It's really loving impossible to have it tuned to it's optimum performance.
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Jun 6, 2012 20:45
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Steiler Drep posted:You never really have it set up "perfectly". It's really loving impossible to have it tuned to it's optimum performance. yup! "optimum" is close enough.
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Jun 6, 2012 20:53
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Went for a drive last Sunday. Hit some Jeep trails I hadn't been on before and talked myself into buying a winch. I go solo a lot so having that extra insurance against getting stuck is going to be a huge plus. Here's some pics: Pretty steep as you clearly can't tell  This was a 40 degree slope of loose sand and rocks that I chose not to tackle for fear of having to back all the way back down. Again, decisions erring on the conservative side due to solo travel.  Just a trail shot  View of the Stuart Range  Roadblock that I jammed over  Roadblock that I didn't jam over. The snow continued on way up the road and I didn't feel like getting stuck. 
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Jun 6, 2012 22:40
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My 99 Cherokee driver side floor pan: Behind the seat mount its just surface rust that I wire wheeled/rust convertered. I can't wait to pull up the rest of my carpeting and see what it looks like. vains fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Jun 6, 2012 |
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Jun 6, 2012 23:04
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I like the last picture, it looks like something out of an ad saying "this is why you want to buy a jeep." with just enough of the vehicle showing to where you know what it is. E: talking to braincloud
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Jun 6, 2012 23:06
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Minion of Cthulhu posted:... with just enough of the vehicle showing to where you know what it is. Although this part works with Veins McGee's picture as well 
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Jun 7, 2012 00:40
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Braincloud posted:Went for a drive last Sunday. Hit some Jeep trails I hadn't been on before and talked myself into buying a winch. I go solo a lot so having that extra insurance against getting stuck is going to be a huge plus. Here's some pics: You got a Rubicon man. Let it idle up that hill like it wants to.
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Jun 7, 2012 01:49
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Finally got my jeep running again. All I had to do was swap two axles. No sweat. Put in a set of Bilstein 5100s and a new set of wheels as well. What's a fair price to sell the axles I swapped out? I have a fully working D30 front and a Dana 35 rear with a ruined differential. 3.07 ratio unfortunately. Here she is, finally working! 
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Jun 7, 2012 04:34
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rally posted:You got a Rubicon man. Let it idle up that hill like it wants to. My open differential TJ would idle up that sandy hill with no issues, I've driven up worse with it.
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Jun 7, 2012 05:25
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ethanol posted:Finally got my jeep running again. All I had to do was swap two axles. No sweat. Front diff is probably worth 100-200 to the right person, but that's about it, unless it's in absolutely perfect condition and you find either a sucker or (equivalently) a shop doing a collision repair on a TJ that needs one. Rear diff is... hm... they weigh like 150-200lbs right? I'd say that's worth 20 or 30 bucks as #1 iron at the scrapyard. I routinely see perfectly good (well, for a dana 35) rearends like that go for 50 or under. Again, you might pull 200 for it if you find a huge sucker, but barring that, scrapyard is about it.
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Jun 7, 2012 06:24
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I have a '95 YJ that I've been shamefully driving into the ground as a daily driver for 10 years now. I was finally able to buy a reliable second car, so now I get to figure out exactly how far over my head I want to get fixing up this thing in my extra garage space. It has the 4.0L with 170k miles on it. It got a rebuilt manual transmission four years ago. There's a wobble in the steering and a ton of other little issues that I'd love to start tackling now that it can be a free time project. The worrying problem is that it's been getting some decent piston slap. It's had a tiny bit on cold day startups for 5+ years, but it's gotten noticeably worse in the past year. It still goes away when the engine warms up, but even then you can bring it back pretty loud if you upshift and lug the engine at ~1k RPMs. It's pretty loud even when first starting on 100 degree days. I've never rebuilt an engine, but I'm not afraid of wrenches either and have always done work myself when possible (most complicated being a couple of clutch replacements on friends' cars and rebuilding an ATV transmission). A mechanic buddy of mine was trying to talk me out of doing a rebuild, saying that it would be a waste of time and money and that finding a rebuilt 4.0 is not hard or expensive. He mentioned some kind of factory rebuild program through Chrysler that I had never heard of before. Are there any diagnostics I should be doing before throwing money around? Piston slap is probably going to mean machine work needs to be done, right? Time isn't an issue and I'd gladly spend more money if I was able to do the work myself, get it working, and actually learn about some engine innards. It was a fun city car, but it's time for a retirement to trails in the southwest. 
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Jun 7, 2012 11:23
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I noticed that my WJ has some toe out. If I set the wheels such that a broomstick held along the driver's front tire is parallel with the body, a broomstick on the passenger front tire hits the body (whereas the end of the boomstick on the other side is still 2-3 inches away). This seems bad. So I take a look underneath and  there is NO rubber left on the outer tie rod ends or the one that goes to the pitman arm. There's just nothing there.....I had this thing up to 90 the other day. Oops.I was trying to adjust the inner tie rod tube in the first place, but it of course is frozen in place. Given my findings, it is of course appropriate that we replace all 3 tie rod ends before it rolls again. Any tricks or tips? It seems pretty straightforward, and I can eyeball an alignment way better than the one it currently has, so I'm not worried about that. It's 20 bucks an end so will be a cheap fix - assuming that i can get the drat things backed out of the inner tube. They feel.....well seated.
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Jun 7, 2012 11:50
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ManicJason posted:I have a '95 YJ that I've been shamefully driving into the ground as a daily driver for 10 years now. I was finally able to buy a reliable second car, so now I get to figure out exactly how far over my head I want to get fixing up this thing in my extra garage space. I rebuilt my 4.0. It's a mess. I should have done a remove and replace. 4.0's are cheap.
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Jun 7, 2012 13:17
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EightBit posted:My open differential TJ would idle up that sandy hill with no issues, I've driven up worse with it. Yeaahhhh no. Easy to say without actually seeing the hill in person. Keep in mind, I've been wheeling for over 15 years in various vehicles, built and stock, and know how these trails are so I'm not some newb who doesn't know how to drive. The top that you can't see is pretty rough with a rock shelf that has a good chance of putting you on your rear end end if you aren't careful. Your stock open diff TJ would be spinning at whatever speed you decided to try. My locked Rubi would also be spinning, but would most likely make it.
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Jun 7, 2012 16:42
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Jonny 290 posted:I noticed that my WJ has some toe out. If I set the wheels such that a broomstick held along the driver's front tire is parallel with the body, a broomstick on the passenger front tire hits the body (whereas the end of the boomstick on the other side is still 2-3 inches away). This seems bad. The fenders on a wj angle inward at the front - NOT a good thing to base an alignment on. You will end up with multiple inches of toe-in, probably deathwobble, and tire life measured in hundreds of miles. I would replace the tie rod ends (penetrating lube, heat, and a strap wrench or pipe wrench applied in that order should break the threads loose - remember one end is right hand thread and the other is left hand!) and have a shop align it. You can get a jeep aligned for a very reasonable price most places, since they only adjust toe and steering wheel center, it's not worth doing it yourself unless you are frequently breaking and repairing your steering or it is lifted and no shop will touch it. E: also, the rubber boots are just to keep grease in, they don't hold the steering together in any way. If the tie rod ends are otherwise in good shape you can replace them for around 20 bucks for all 4, regrease, and drive the wheels off it. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jun 7, 2012 |
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Jun 7, 2012 17:25
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Here she is, took her home last night 2012 Sport, now my bank account starts to empty. By the way do you have to use a wrench to get the antenna off? Everywhere I read it says you should be able to twist it off, there is no way in hell that thing is gonna budge. I want to install a 13" antenna but online everything says its for 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited...what about the sport drat it. 
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Jun 7, 2012 19:43
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Guru Yaekob posted:Here she is, took her home last night 2012 Sport, now my bank account starts to empty. By the way do you have to use a wrench to get the antenna off? Everywhere I read it says you should be able to twist it off, there is no way in hell that thing is gonna budge. Those tires look exceptionally small under those fender flares.
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Jun 7, 2012 19:45
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commissargribb posted:Those tires look exceptionally small under those fender flares. They actually are alright in terms of height, I'll be adding new ones soon as I can find a deal on craigslist or something, I refuse to pay for new rims, new tires I'll pay for but not rims.
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Jun 7, 2012 19:46
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Guru Yaekob posted:They actually are alright in terms of height, I'll be adding new ones soon as I can find a deal on craigslist or something, I refuse to pay for new rims, new tires I'll pay for but not rims. What size are your rims? I don't think the stock rims give you much flexibility for larger tires.
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Jun 7, 2012 20:03
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EightBit posted:What size are your rims? I don't think the stock rims give you much flexibility for larger tires. The Sport's wheels are 16s, I don't know the width; tires are 225/75-16. There are plenty of tire sizes available at 16", and they tend to be a lot cheaper than 17 or 18. A lot of Rubicon owners downsize their wheels to save $$$.
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Jun 7, 2012 20:14
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I want 15-16 inch rims with large tires on them. I dont like the look of big rims.
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Jun 7, 2012 20:16
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Godholio posted:The Sport's wheels are 16s, I don't know the width; tires are 225/75-16. There are plenty of tire sizes available at 16", and they tend to be a lot cheaper than 17 or 18. A lot of Rubicon owners downsize their wheels to save $$$. I was thinking that they may have come with 17" rims, which certainly are harder to get good tires for. I had to buy rims a year ago due to theft and almost bought a cheap set of 17" rims off of craigslist until I looked at tire selections for them. It was cheaper to buy new 15" rims and tires.
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Jun 7, 2012 20:22
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Guru Yaekob posted:I want 15-16 inch rims with large tires on them. I dont like the look of big rims. I've been toying with the idea of getting a set of 16" steelies with 31" retreads on them.
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Jun 7, 2012 21:05
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Guru Yaekob posted:I want to install a 13" antenna but online everything says its for 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited...what about the sport drat it. Most of the cosmetic pieces are going to fit any JK, be it a 2dr, JKU, Sport, Sahara, or Rubicon trim. You start running into differences with things like fender flares, running boards/rock sliders, armor, top racks, etc. That being said, your antenna is going to be universal and it should twist off with a crescent wrench.
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Jun 7, 2012 21:28
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EightBit posted:I was thinking that they may have come with 17" rims, which certainly are harder to get good tires for. I had to buy rims a year ago due to theft and almost bought a cheap set of 17" rims off of craigslist until I looked at tire selections for them. It was cheaper to buy new 15" rims and tires. 16, 17, and 18 are all available, so he may have 17s. Depends on the options and what the dealer felt like loving with. 16 is the base size. It's too bad they don't look very good. I wish they were just flat-sided like the 18s.
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Jun 7, 2012 22:46
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I can't really justify buying it but I want one so bad http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3059815206.html
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Jun 8, 2012 07:39
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TheManWithNoName posted:I can't really justify buying it but I want one so bad I bet that thing is bondo city judging by the XJ's I looked at at that dealer.
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Jun 8, 2012 14:04
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It doesn't look too bad. Check it with a fridge magnet... That dealer has their head up their rear end, auto w/ ac is by no means rare. But most dealers have their heads up their asses.
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Jun 8, 2012 15:10
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Those are probably the two most common options on any model in America. 
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Jun 8, 2012 15:15
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I'm sure it's been through some poo poo based on the repainting. Also $6000 is too much money.
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Jun 8, 2012 15:21
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TheManWithNoName posted:I'm sure it's been through some poo poo based on the repainting. Also $6000 is too much money. Yeah when I was driving their hosed up 1999 XJ that they still have priced at $5300 they told me if it wasn't so hosed up it would probably be priced more like $8000 
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Jun 8, 2012 16:38
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Slow is Fast posted:I rebuilt my 4.0. It's a mess. I should have done a remove and replace. 4.0's are cheap. Anyone else have opinions on rebuilding a 4.0? I'm reading all I can from random Jeep forums. I may try to meet up with a local Jeep club.
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Jun 8, 2012 17:39
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Howdy y'all it rained in Texas 
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Jun 8, 2012 18:45
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Rebuilds are expensive. Why would you do that when a 4.0L can go a really long time when properly cared for. Mine has 275k miles and my brother in law's has 250k+ miles.
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Jun 8, 2012 21:20
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I have never killed a 4.0 and I've abused the hell out of mine... they aren't a delicate engine. first one - got it with 107k on it, unfortunately had to get rid of it at 150 or so after the jeep it was in stranded me 300 miles from home with a blown transmission. Motor was still fine, after dozens of hours of driving in second gear on the highway up around 5200rpm (rev limiter.) Transmission clearly didn't like me doing that, though. It was a junk jeep, all I left behind that I really cared about was my front coil springs, the motor, and the transfer case. the one that came in my MJ - had 207k on it when I got it, removed it at around 240k still running just fine, RMS leaked like a sieve which resulted in me running it for hundreds of miles (over the course of about a year) with no oil in it. On more than one instance I would drop by a parts store and ask if they had an used oil around I could take, pour it into the engine, and drive home that way. I was broke and used oil is (usually) better than none. It still had 40psi oil pressure (what I got it with) when I pulled it. The one that came in my 98 XJ - 150k, I treated it nicely, gave it oil changes, a new air filter, a new radiator, and it blew the head gasket. Since then I've stopped treating it nicely, put another 10k hard-driven miles on it, and it still runs. The one that I put in my MJ - had 198k on it when it was pulled from a junkyard 98 ZJ by a friend of mine, he put it in his 96 XJ, drove it daily to boston and back (~100 miles) in any weather, with no air filter, beat the hell out of it on the trails. I bought it when he parted out his jeep, put it in my MJ, put an air filter on it, beat the hell out of it, and have hydrolocked it at least 3 times now. Still has great oil pressure, no bad sounds, runs like a top. 4.0s really don't care. They also aren't really worth spending money on unless yours is "weird" or you have a stroker - weird meaning a TJ/WJ block that isn't as easy to replace. I've never paid more than 160 dollars for a good running 4.0 and usually I pay under 100. If you really, really want to spend money on them, buy four or five at the junkyard (if you're in the northeast, Sam's in worcester has plenty, $139 pull-your-own, they will forklift them to the gate for free after you pull it), stack them in the back of your garage, and consider it an insurance plan. </4.0  >
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Jun 8, 2012 21:30
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ManicJason posted:I just read through all your posts in this thread to get more details. It seems like yours was barely running when you got it. Other than the piston slap mine has seemed healthy and definitely hasn't been beat up. My project thread has more info. It's not worth it when a remove and replace is faster and cheaper. Unless you're building a stroker just swap in another one.
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Jun 8, 2012 21:41
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My 4.0 has 155k miles and if it dies before the rest of the Jeep rots away, it's being reborn as a stroker.
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Jun 8, 2012 22:42
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Alternatively, should I ignore the piston slap and soldier on with the one I've already got until it dies? I assume any play in there is quickly ending the life of several other components.
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Jun 9, 2012 06:51
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I'd do one of two things. 1. buy a spare, buy the tools you'll need to swap it in (regular stuff plus a $150 HF engine hoist, an E12 external torx socket, and a few other things), pay up your AAA membership or get towing coverage from your insurance company. Drive it till it blows. 2. pop the head off, pop the oil pan off, check your bores, if the bores still seem round and have crosshatching / normal wear, stuff some new pistons (if the skirts are worn/scuffed/broken) and/or new rings in it. Seat the rings, drive it till it blows. I'd personally go with option 1.
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Jun 9, 2012 07:21
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Whats the going/fair price for the full spare tire and rim for a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Edition? Bridgetone Dueler H/T 689, P245/70R16 Never used. I did the cash for clunkers program and I am just getting around to unloading this on Craiglist(midwest).
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Jun 9, 2012 22:40
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