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Alceste posted:Well, that second one went out the door the same day they posted the CL ad, apparently, but they didn't bother deleting it. I should have called before I spent all that time reading up on S to naked conversions, but at least it was interesting reading. I think just the subframes and tail fairings are different, the rest is pretty much the same.
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# ? Jun 7, 2012 15:55 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 09:56 |
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The seat is different. If you need a replacement seat, you gotta get one specifically for the '03/K3. I think K3's have wider radiators, but that's not important.
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# ? Jun 7, 2012 18:49 |
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The '03 was not on the premises when I called yesterday, and it was raining anyway so I still haven't seen it yet. I'm not sure what to think about the fact that it was offsite (seller is some little car dealership) but that it's supposed to be back today. Last night on CL I found another one--this one's a 2000 that has been stored for 3 years, needs cleanup work to run, but was used for touring and has some extras like a service manual and a Corbin seat, all for $1200 asking. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/mcy/3064050136.html The guy sent me some more pictures and the only damage I see is the bottom of the muffler is dented. I don't know if I want a first gen, but then again I'd be happy to clean the carbs and replace the battery if I'm only paying $1K or so.
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 15:09 |
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Alceste posted:2000 that has been stored for 3 years, needs cleanup work to run, but was used for touring and has some extras like a service manual and a Corbin seat, all for $1200 asking. This one would be worth taking a look at. New shift/brake levers are cheap and a dent in the exhaust isn't a big deal. Carb rebuild kits are pretty reasonable if you need them otherwise you might be able to get by with removing and soaking them. I'd pry show up with $800 or so and see if he bites. The corbin seat is really nice and a service manual is handy to have.
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 15:50 |
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Go for it, as long as the engine runs. I'd choose it over that K3. Curvy SV's are the best.
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 15:56 |
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Sweet! How hard is it to get the carbs out of one of these? I figure on doing the work myself if I can snag it.
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 16:13 |
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Alceste posted:Sweet! How hard is it to get the carbs out of one of these? I figure on doing the work myself if I can snag it. Remove tank (optional), remove airbox, disconnect throttle cables and gas lines then remove carbs. Easy job, I'd say under a half hour.
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 18:47 |
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Alceste posted:Sweet! How hard is it to get the carbs out of one of these? I figure on doing the work myself if I can snag it. It's a piece of cake. I bought a similar SV for $700 (scroll up a little) with the same issues. Ebay sells the carb kits for $20/pc (you need two)
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 20:11 |
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I've had an SV from non-functional for the same reasons to running in under 30 minutes. But I've worked on these bikes a lot. Figure 2-3 hours for your first time.
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 21:39 |
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My '01 SV650S and I rode through a torrential rainstorm a few weeks back. Just a couple days later, I had to have the bike shipped (I have a summer internship in NM), and I got the bike earlier this week. I went for my first ride on Wednesday, and I was experiencing some pretty serious bogging. I took it to a shop today, and it turns out that there was quite a bit of water in the gas tank. Emptied the tank and put fresh gas in it, and now it works fine. I already knew about the fact that the front cylinder's position can allow water to get in and ruin the spark plug, but now this has me even more paranoid. Is this a common problem for SVs (or other bikes?)? Is there a way to prevent this from happening?
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 22:09 |
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I'd be inclined to say your tank drain is clogged, letting stuff drain into the tank from the top. Open the gas cap, remove the mount from the bolts around it, and check.
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# ? Jun 8, 2012 22:42 |
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I put the Bikemaster Daytona bar that I bought from the walkin dude on my SV today, and holy poo poo is it exactly what I needed for that bike. I'm not holding myself up with my arms any more, and I can just throw the thing into corners now. It rules. The only issue is that I really could use an extra inch of throttle cable slack, if I have it full lock to the right the throttle doesn't snap closed when I let go of it. I've seen that some people get tank spacers and route the throttle cable underneath the tank...any other solutions?
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# ? Jun 10, 2012 02:13 |
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You might be able to route them straight out rather than around, that's how I do it, but I'm on a gen one.
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# ? Jun 10, 2012 02:24 |
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on my SV if I pull it totally to the right, iirc, it revs up to between 2-3k rpm. Not enough to bother me. Other people on svrider have had success with re-routing their N throttle cables. I can't stand my gf's SV's stock sprocket configuration. The bike just ain't snappy. I love cracking the throttle at just 4k and hanging onto to my Daytona handlebar as the bike shoots forward. Comparatively, her bike barely registers throttle input at 4k. She wants an upgrade too. If the sprockets/chain (525) on there have 5k already on them, can I just swap out the back sprocket without any ill effect?
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# ? Jun 10, 2012 02:30 |
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People say it's good to match sprockets with chains but it's the same people who sperg about chain upkeep so honestly I wouldn't worry about it. Look at it in this simple logic model: If you swap in the sprocket and it works, you save money. If it doesn't work and the chain breaks, you are spending as much money as you planned to originally with buying the whole kit, by buying the whole kit.
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# ? Jun 10, 2012 04:23 |
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the walkin dude posted:
if you go up more than 1 tooth the chain probably wont be long enough
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# ? Jun 10, 2012 16:06 |
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NitroSpazzz posted:This one would be worth taking a look at. New shift/brake levers are cheap and a dent in the exhaust isn't a big deal. Carb rebuild kits are pretty reasonable if you need them otherwise you might be able to get by with removing and soaking them. I took a look at it today and it looks great aside from being dirty. It starts under full choke but won't run. The seller won't budge from $1200, though. He's in absolutely no hurry after it's been in storage for so long and I was one of at least ten inquiries. He seems to be roughly my dad's age, which along with a few other traits made me feel a lot like I was dealing with him, and I'm sure I gave up too easily. The guy bought it for his son for a ride from Fort Worth to Alaska and back, but after deciding that his son wasn't careful or respectful enough while riding, he took the bike back and after doing some post-trip maintenance he put it in storage and never got it back out. He showed me a thick folder full of service records and both printed and electronic copies of the factory service manual, which is cool. I told him I still want it, so he's going to hold it while I find a way to transport it 70 miles to my house. Can a bike like this be put in the back of a full sized pickup, dirtbike style--tied down and everything, of course--or do I need to find a trailer? I need to keep my costs down as much as I practically can.
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# ? Jun 11, 2012 03:09 |
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Yeah you can toss it in the back of a full size truck, no problem. Seems like a good deal with the maintenance records and all.
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# ? Jun 11, 2012 03:33 |
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Alceste posted:Can a bike like this be put in the back of a full sized pickup, dirtbike style--tied down and everything, of course--or do I need to find a trailer? I need to keep my costs down as much as I practically can. I hauled mine in the back of a VW pickup which is closer to fun size than full size, you'll be fine. Be careful loading and unloading, get a hand if possible. And $1200 with full records and stuff isn't bad.
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# ? Jun 11, 2012 13:36 |
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4AM at the BlaiseSVworkship, apparently: Lots done this weekend. New tires, Penske Shock installed, forks rebuilt, oil/coolant/brakefluid/plugs changed, windscreen installed, air filter cleaned, etc etc blah blah. First track day in a while on Friday. All I want is to pass one new shiny supersport The rear spring is a 600# on the penske, while RaceTech said their best guess for the front is a 0.85. I'm riding 99% on the street, anybody got any insight? Blaise fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jun 11, 2012 |
# ? Jun 11, 2012 14:30 |
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How much do you weigh? What does Racetech recommend for the rear?
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 02:52 |
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Z3n posted:How much do you weigh? What does Racetech recommend for the rear? The racetech numbers are WAY off on the site for the rear. I'm 180-185 gearless, 200-205 geared. Penske recommends an 11.6 spring, stock is 9.1, while a 400# is a 10.7. It feels pretty good.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 13:53 |
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NitroSpazzz posted:I hauled mine in the back of a VW pickup which is closer to fun size than full size, you'll be fine. Be careful loading and unloading, get a hand if possible. I nabbed it! Getting it home was a whole ordeal that ended up with me putting a hitch and wiring harness on my Outlook and borrowing a friend's construction trailer after finding it ridiculously expensive to rent anything that was capable of towing. I wanted to set up my SUV for towing anyway though. Teardown and cleanup begins tomorrow. I looked through the records last night and the seller was the original owner and had EVERYTHING done by shops, even the easy stuff. He got kind of emotional saying goodbye to the bike before we hauled it off. Between that and the awesome factory service manual in both hard and soft copy, and the two boxes full of spare parts, I feel pretty good about the deal I got, even if I couldn't talk him down.
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# ? Jun 15, 2012 17:37 |
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Here's a lousy cell phone photo of it with its younger brother in my garage...same displacement, pretty much the same weight, but very different personalities.
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# ? Jun 15, 2012 17:45 |
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Apparently one of my SVs got nominated to be July's SV of the Month: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159836 I'll have to drop in and clarify that it wasn't me who did the fine bodywork. Gotta dig up the screenname of the P.O. Can anyone point me to a guide in how to clean/rebuild my SV's front master cylinder? The rubber seal part encompassing the piston looks kinda disintegrated/beat-up; the front brakes seized up on me the other day too. It could be the $35 Pazzo knock-off levers that did the brake-seizing, but I checked the MC and thought I'd just clean/rebuild to make sure the 11-year-old system works fine. Will be filing down the Pazzo-knockoff lever too. I now have a K&L MC rebuild kit sitting on my desk. the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jun 15, 2012 |
# ? Jun 15, 2012 19:19 |
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So, my bike seems to have developed a "thock" noise. Previously it had only happened when I had a passenger. Said passenger weighs about 120lbs, but now it also happens when I ride solo. Basically whenever I'm accelerating from a stop, sometimes in a slow corner, and sometimes when I decelerate. The "thock" seems to come up from the engine area in the front. This is also where the front shocks are. I don't know if the sound is deflecting up from the engine or if it's the shocks. It also has a timing to it, like a clock.. it will never "thock-thock", only "thock' -1 second- "thock". Sometimes the interval is shorter if the RPM is higher - but that could also be me going a little faster. Only happens in gear, under load.
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# ? Jun 15, 2012 23:22 |
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Check, clean, and lube your chain, and check your sprockets.
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# ? Jun 16, 2012 00:28 |
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I want to join SV biek club, but I'm also trying to save for a place to live that's not an apartment. Cognitive dissonance, ahoy! That being said, I found this locally and I'm wondering what you guys think it's worth. NADA Guide places the bike at $3095, and then stands and a tank bag aren't a whole lot. So, say $3400, total. Is this at all reasonable/high/low? Is this also a terrible first bike since it appears to be in such nice physical condition? I have a friend who purchased an '06 SV650n with 3500mi on the odometer, back in 2011 for $3500. So, I think $3500 is my upper bound, even with those accessories and low mileage. Craigslist posted:2005 Suzuki SV 650 (Price Reduced) - $3800
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# ? Jun 16, 2012 05:11 |
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MetaJew posted:I want to join SV biek club, but I'm also trying to save for a place to live that's not an apartment. Cognitive dissonance, ahoy! I bought an '06 N in 2010 in similar condition with 1600 miles on it for $3200, and that was probably in the upper end of an acceptable price at the time, so there is definitely room to wiggle on an older bike 2 years in the future.
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# ? Jun 16, 2012 07:04 |
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That thing looks nice! Get frame sliders for it and any minor drops will only really gently caress up your controls.
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# ? Jun 16, 2012 19:01 |
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Oh, absolutely. My first purchase for it would be a set of frame sliders. Is it just the season, or are Houston and Austin SV markets really inflated? People are asking nearly $4-5k for 8 and 9 year old bikes. I think the highest I'd be willing to go on this one would be $3300 after some consideration. What the hell is this: Craigslist posted:http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/3030031205.html Edit: I'm referring to the yellow SV in my previous post when I say I'd pay at most $3300. This sticker bombed piece of crap is just something I found while browsing. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 17, 2012 |
# ? Jun 16, 2012 23:09 |
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MetaJew posted:Oh, absolutely. My first purchase for it would be a set of frame sliders. That's really high. I haven't paid over 2k for any SV650 in recent history....friend just bought an 03 for 1800, I paid 1500 for my 2000. Technically, I paid 2800 for a ex superbike but that's a special case.
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 00:10 |
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Had a few minutes riding with a 4 person SV650 group on my way home from the gym, 3 1st gens and a 2nd gen before I joined in. It was pretty cool since most of the people around here are Harley riders except the Marines blowing their first paychecks on liter bikes.
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 02:54 |
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Tenchrono posted:people around here are Harley riders except the Marines blowing their first paychecks on liter bikes. They won't last long. War is hell, especially on the tarmac.
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 05:59 |
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I got my new-to-me first gen running today. I don't have any others to compare it to, so I don't know if it's running in top shape yet, but it starts and stops and idles and it put a huge shiteating grin on my face when I took it for its first spin around the neighborhood. After riding my little thumper for 8 months, it amazes me how effortless the acceleration feels on the SV, and how quiet it is. The carbs were remarkably clean for as long as they'd been in storage, but I still had to clean them twice because a clogged pilot jet slipped past me the first time. I didn't have to soak or boil them or break them completely down, though, which was cool. I have some fresh gas and Seafoam in the tank which I think will smooth out the rest. I replaced the plugs and oil and will flush and replace the coolant on another weekend, probably when I soak and relube the chain. I'm also pretty sure I need new fork seals. But it runs and rides as of now, which is awesome for $1200 and what relatively little effort I had to put into it.
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 21:53 |
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Why anyone would want to buy a bike older than two years old is beyond me. You're just asking for trouble with servicing and engine faults. That methed-up tweaker that you bought this basic no-frills workhorse from on Craiglist was not kind to it.
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 21:59 |
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mootmoot posted:Why anyone would want to buy a bike older than two years old is beyond me. You're just asking for trouble with servicing and engine faults. That's not an easy question to answer. Maybe because some older bikes aren't made anymore and no valid new production can easily replace them or because some old really tried concepts just never die. Tell me about a 2 year old alternative to a RD500YPVS. Well, that and a portion of nerd Aspergers syndrom and hairy balls. Actually you can make some totally awful deals buying bikes less than 2 years old. Daytonas with frames bend and twisted so much that they have a hard time keeping the spike-nuts off contact with the road comes to mind.
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 22:33 |
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mootmoot posted:Why anyone would want to buy a bike older than two years old is beyond me. You're just asking for trouble with servicing and engine faults. Holy poo poo, I just realized that I've been so wrong all these years...those 30 something motorcycles I've bought over the last 7 years and made money on, I've been doing it wrong. That's why every motorcycle felt so unpure, they were all too old...I made money on most of them like they were cheap whores and I was their pimp. My god, I've been so heartless, so cruel, so mean. Off to buy a 2013 Triumph Tiger XC. Thanks mootmoot!
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 22:41 |
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I'm sure you've made money but have you done well out of it?
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 22:46 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 09:56 |
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mootmoot posted:I'm sure you've made money but have you done well out of it? Did your youtube-crash-while-going-straight-video provide you some lucrative stunt-man jobs? We ride bikes because we like it, and you crash them because that's your thing. To each his own. None of us wrench bikes for wealth and glory.
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# ? Jun 17, 2012 22:52 |