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If they can't do an annual price increase on it, GW has no interest in it.
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May 25, 2012 21:42
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^^ HahahaDanger - Octopus! posted:They might end up getting reprinted by someone else, like FFG picked up Rogue Trader, hopefully? Yeah I was thinking maybe Warlord Games, since Rick and Jervis are over there now.
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May 25, 2012 21:45
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Lots of people are talking about War and Conquest by Rob Broom ex WAB as being the WAB 3.0. Any tried it? The book looks gorgeous. Theres also Great Escape Games Clash of Empires too that is getting a lot of ex WAB players over. Really should check them both out some time.
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May 26, 2012 09:13
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I think the Historical Wargaming Podcast featured War and Conquest in their latest show. I haven't listened to it, so I don't know if it is a crappy podcast or not: http://www.historicalwargames.org/ I just got asked by a customer if I could paint up a DBA army for him. That's roughly 100 15mm samurai, which I think would take a bit of time to paint. I googled around, and the going rate seems to be anything between $1 to £2. Anyone with experience with commission painting who can give some advice?
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May 26, 2012 11:18
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lilljonas posted:I think the Historical Wargaming Podcast featured War and Conquest in their latest show. I haven't listened to it, so I don't know if it is a crappy podcast or not: No experience here, but I remember what a goon said somewhere. It was to the effect "I paint for enjoyment and I am not going to sacrfice my leisure time for less than minimum wage." The idea being actually charge what your time is worth.
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May 26, 2012 14:16
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Anyone here play Black Powder in 15mm? Trying to figure out if I should adjust the ranges/movement if I am using 6 bases at 40MM (240mm frontage) for my units. Would it mainly depend on table size, or since I am using smaller figs/terrain should I just adjust it down automatically? Also upping the number of guns in a battery from 1 to 3, this is more for looks, but wondering if any other considerations should be made at they will be larger footprint.
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May 27, 2012 06:57
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Mr.Booger posted:Anyone here play Black Powder in 15mm? Trying to figure out if I should adjust the ranges/movement if I am using 6 bases at 40MM (240mm frontage) for my units. I dont play it in 15mm, but measurements are all based on unit frontage, and it looks like you are using exactly the same frontage as they suggest for 28mm, so my gut reaction would be keep things as they are in the rule book as its unit frontage and not figure size that seems to matter. But like anything BP related, give it a go and see how it feels and change as necessary.
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May 27, 2012 07:40
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I got to play Legends of the Old West last night with my nephew and fellow goon Marsol0x. The scenario is that a man is going to be hanged today, and his friends are coming in to rescue him. I played the Lawmen, while Marsol0x played the Outlaws. There are bystanders in the town as well, who get moved by the player with The Drop (initiative). Legends of the Old West is an IGOUGO game, one player moves, then the other, then the first players shoots, then the other, &c. We were learning as we played, so we defintiely made a few minor mistakes that we'll know about for next time. It took about 3 hours, which isn't bad considering we didn't know the rules very well. Also, I haven't painted anything yet, so I apologize if that's inconvenient. So without further ado: Setup Sheriff Ebenezer Audley is the only justice in town, an’ today he’s fixin’ to hang Ol’ Churchill, a dastardly coot who cain’t keep his fool mouth shut, or follow the local ordnance against rilin’ up the whores. A crowd has gathered for the hangin’, too, since it’s some o’ the best entertainment around.  But Churchill is a member of the Sloppy Joe Gang. Sloppy Joe Helsper is a down right, no good, sonofabitch, but he takes care o’ his boys. And today, he’s gonna free Ol’ Churchill, even if it means killin’ the Sheriff and his men. There he is, comin’ up out o’ the wilderness towards old Pete’s unfinished paddock.  TURN 1 Sheriff Audley, expectin’ trouble, starts movin’ his posse from the town out towards the farms, where word has come that the Sloppy Joe Gang is comin’ to free that rascal Churchill. His posse ain’t just deputies neither. He’s got some folk normally he hates for buttin’ in to the law and takin’ matters in to their own hands, but today he needs all the muscle he can git. And a few fine, upstandin’ citizens came out with their own guns, at their own risk to help, too. Sloppy Joe and his boys move in, too, ready fer a fight. He’s brought the best o’ his gang, armed and itchin’ for a fight.  TURN 2 A bit panicky, the women-folk who come out to watch the hangin’ run about like crazy, jumpin’ in front of the Sheriff and his posse.  The posse moves the women aside gruffly, callin’ ‘em damned fools, and moves up best they can to get a good angle. Fatty McGee sidles up to the paddock for cover, while Deputy Jimmy Carrol moves up on the balcony of the Hotel to take aim.  Sloppy Joe breaks the ice by takin’ the first shot, firin’ his Winchester ’73 at Deputy Carrol. The bullet goes wild and hits nothin’ of no matter. The Gecko Kid shoots his sixgun at Fatty McGee, but only manages to hit the fence. Deputy Carrol, aimin’ to take out Sloppy Joe an’ end this whole thing before it begins, fires his own Winchester ’73, but the distance is just too great. From behind one o’ the outhouses, Bob the Duck, a vigilante type from Colorado Territory, fires his shotgun at the Gecko Kid, but only manages to hit the fence. Fatty McGee shoots his pistol at the Gecko Kid too, and although it was a good hit, the Gecko Kid shrugs it off without a care, it bein’ just a graze. On the other side of the street, near the Dry Goods store, Deputy Howell shoots and kills Beard McReady dead with one shot from his Colt. As he dies, he drops his bag o’ loot, fresh from a train robbery only hours before. Sheriff Audley fires at some no-name tough’n holdin’ a shotgun, but only manages to put a hole in his hat.  TURN 3 Them women folk musta been out o’ their minds, runnin’ in front o’ the Sheriff again.  The Sloppy Joe Gang moves up to take better cover behind the paddock on one side, and the outhouses near the Dry Goods store on t’other. The Sheriff’s posse moves up a little too, but just to get in better positions now that the Gang has moved.  Sloppy Joe sees his chance, although it’s a long shot, and he fires his Winchester at the Sheriff! It bein’ so far away, though, he don’t hit nothin’. The no name with the shotgun misses Deputy Howell, even though he’s mere feet away. Shotgun Steve, a kid from Texas, fires his namesake at Bob the Duck, a few pellets grazin’ his ear, but nothin’ too serious. Another no name man fires his sixgun at ol’ Fatty McGee, but it jams up on him. Meanwhile, one of Sloppy Joe’s lieutenants, Horse Draper, misses Deputy Howell by inches ‘round the corner of the Dry Goods store. Deputy Carrol, still up on the balcony o’ the hotel, finally gets a bead on one o’ the Gang, the no name tough what shot at Fatty, droppin’ him where he stands. The others fire at various men, but don’t hit nothin’ but air and an outhouse.  TURN 4 Deputy Howell and Larry Stevenson, the owner of the Dry Goods store, rush two of Sloppy Joe’s Gang ‘round the corner. While they start strugglin’ with each other, shots ring out all over, but the only a few o’ consequence. Sloppy Joe finally gits Deputy Carrol, his body tumblin’ over the railin’ on the balcony as he falls, dead before he hits the ground.  In retaliation, Bob the Duck draws his sixgun and sends all six shots down at the gang, killin’ the no name shotgun boy in a hail of bullets.  Now, over by the Dry Goods store, the tussle resolves with both Deputy Howell and Larry Stevenson getting’ stabbed and dyin’ in the street.   TURN 5 The Sheriff climbs up the scaffolding of the gallows, tryin’ to get a clear view of the whole situation. Deputy O’Connell, who’d been waitin’ near the steps to stop anyone from freein’ Churchill, decides he’s free to move up to the paddock now.   The shots continue passin’ back an’ forth, and it seems like it may end up in a stand still, until Horse Draper gits lucky. Firin’ wild towards the gallows, carin’ not fer the women folk or his friend Churchill, Horse Draper kills Sheriff Ebenzer Audley. He clutches his chest, drops to his knees, and then tumbles off the scaffolding to the dirt below.  The lawmen, havin’ lost so many today, start getting’ nervous, but the day wins out as Deputy O’Connell calls for ‘em to remain calm and avenge the Sheriff. TURN 6 Deputy O’Connell’s still calmin’ his friends as again the firin’ continues, but this time there’s little of much consequence. Sloppy Joe does get a couple of grazings from both Deputy Howell and Fatty McGee, forcin’ him to dive to the ground for better cover. TURN 7 This is the moment when the beloved Fatty McGee, a prospector and a genuinely fat man, buys the farm. Climbin’ up over the paddock to get a better aim on Sloppy Joe, his wheezin’ causes him to miss. But Sloppy Joe ain’t so heavy, an’ he fires his rifle right in to Fatty’s third chin.   TURN 8 Once Again, Deputy O’Connell has to calm down his men, and now they have cause to avenge both Sheriff Audley and Fatty McGee, plus the others previously killed. Horse Draper, cheerin’ and a’hollerin’ over his killin’ the Sheriff, jumps up on to the gallows to free ol’ Churchill. Bob the Duck rushes up the steps to stop him, dodgin’ bullets left and right, only to get shot in the back from afar by Sloppy Joe himself. With a quick flick o’ his knife, Horse Draper cuts down Churchill.   TURN 9 Bein’ the last man standin’, and not too terribly stupid, Deputy O’Connell flees for his life. The Sloppy Joe Gang spends the rest o’ the evenin’ drinkin’, fightin’, and whorin’.
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May 28, 2012 17:43
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Colonial Air Force posted:I got to play Legends of the Old West last night with my nephew and fellow goon Marsol0x. Nice write-up. Reminds me of a beer 'n pretzels Wild West skirmish game we played in my LGS years ago. Don't recall the rule set, but each player had one figure, you declared a move and rolled to see how far you got for cover mechanics. The best part was that turns were randomized with a card system. Each player had to name their dude and write the name on a 3x5 card. When your card came up, the ref called out the character name to take an action, wait for opportunity fire, etc. The cards were shuffled each time you went through the deck, so if you were called near the end of the deck, you might move again early after reshuffle, etc. Since your dude's name got called out each time, everyone took the opportunity to come up with amusing ones (like your write-up). Mine was "Chappy Bare-rear end, The FunPants Kid!" Good times.
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May 29, 2012 18:30
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Danger - Octopus! posted:They might end up getting reprinted by someone else, like FFG picked up Rogue Trader, hopefully? Swagger Dagger posted:If they can't do an annual price increase on it, GW has no interest in it.
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May 31, 2012 17:50
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FFG's Dark Heresy is nearly identical to the short-lived BI one, I think that's what he meant.
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May 31, 2012 18:00
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moths posted:FFG's Dark Heresy is nearly identical to the short-lived BI one, I think that's what he meant. If by "nearly" you mean "entirely identical except the publisher logos". It is literally the same game, and then expanded. Which would be great if FFG did it.
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May 31, 2012 20:57
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Know Your Enemy for Late War FoW has been released, but this time it's an actual book. It used to just be a PDF, and I'm said it isn't.
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May 31, 2012 22:34
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Colonial Air Force posted:Know Your Enemy for Late War FoW has been released, but this time it's an actual book. I don't know about the previous itterations, but I understand this is also suppose to update points values across all late war books. Not sure if that justifies the book, but it is what it is.
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Jun 1, 2012 02:20
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moths posted:FFG's Dark Heresy is nearly identical to the short-lived BI one, I think that's what he meant. Colonial Air Force posted:Know Your Enemy for Late War FoW has been released, but this time it's an actual book.
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Jun 1, 2012 06:01
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Colonial Air Force posted:If by "nearly" you mean "entirely identical except the publisher logos". It is literally the same game, and then expanded. Yeah, this is what I meant! I kept meaning to try GW's WW1 game (because some of my friends like historics, some like GW and this would get all of them at the same table)
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Jun 1, 2012 22:56
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I just ordered Cold War Commander and am hoping that if I can comprehend the mechanics and confirm my impression that it'll reward intelligent play (rather than imagination alone), I'll end up with some miniatures. I was planning on going 3mm from http://www.picoarmor.com/ to minimize costs. If this all doesn't suck at some point in the future I'd like to play out an ARG scenario using shots of my neighborhood and an identical miniature layout. Anything else I need to know before embarking on this journey? I think my main question is what I need to know to compose realistic lists for scenarios. Will CWC specify what I should put on the board for each scenario, or just all available options? How do I choose a good starter set? My only experience in all this is around Euro board games (favorite being Twilight Struggle). I gather that playing these kinds of games basically ends one's chances of female company. Is this true? MotoMind fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jun 2, 2012 |
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Jun 2, 2012 00:58
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Cold War Commander is astoundingly easy to pick up, nothing complex at all. Its very fast play and buckets of dice. There are scenarios in the book although they arent specific to a campaign, just a battle type, ie breakthrough mission or meeting engagement, and tlel you what points cost the attacker/defender needs to field. As for army lists they are all there in the book, 100s of them and they all have points values and limits. You could also check these out: http://www.wargamevault.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=3426 I know the guy who writes them and they are superb, very easy to convert to CWC army lists and pretty much bang on historically accurate if that is important to you. Hes also on the CWC forums and will answer any questions you have because hes a lovely bloke. Also check the official forums out because its a very friendly place and people will fall over themselves to help you out. http://www.blitzkrieg-commander.com/Default.aspx As for 3mm its a great idea. I went 6mm but given that in CWC a unit or base of troops equals a platoon/squadron it always feels just slightly odd using 1 tank = a tank platoon, whereas if you go with 3mm you can stick 3 or 4 tanks on a base, and it looks amazing. I seriously toy with the idea of selling all my 6mm forces and rebuying them as picoarmour. And as for female company, as a happily married man of 11 years next week, it hasnt done me any harm. Mind you I keep m y wife well away from my wargaming because that way she has no idea what I spend on it! Serotonin fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Jun 2, 2012 |
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Jun 2, 2012 08:55
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Thanks, I'm excited about this. I think I'll enjoy modeling and stuff. So with the army lists, that's all the available equipment for a certain period and faction? I'm wondering if there are an guidelines for how to pick a balanced set for a given scenario. Or, for that matter, pick a versatile starter set. Does it work out best if you think what the actual armies would have fielded or do you compare stats or? Edit: And excellent point about the platoons. You can basically go one-to-one since an armored platoon is usually around, what, 4 tanks, and infantry is around 15?
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Jun 2, 2012 17:52
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The lists give a vague idea of what a force could field as they have limits on number allowed to be fielded as well as years of service. As I said those Micromark lists are what I use for CWC and BKC. They are very easy to convert to CWC/BKC points values. For example looking at BKC using a Micromark army list (TOE they are often called) , a US Armoured Div in Europe between 44-45 would look something like this (I know you are doing moderns but this is what I had to hand immediately) quote:1. Teeth Arm Now in BKC terms you would use the following A command stand for the Battalion Commander (with whatever you like on, little dioramas are always good). In this case I would use a Sherman with a tank commander and maybe a truck and some infantry types on the same base or something. Then I would field the 3 armoured companies, which would be 9 platoons ( a company in this list is 3 platoons). Now in 3mm you could use 9 bases (of whatever size you wanted - I would recommend something like 30x50mm)and then stick 5 teeny tiny Sherman in formation on them (would look awesome). For something like the Gun platoon, seeing as its a single stand, I would stick 3 teeny M4A3s on it. And then so on and so on. Does that make sense? The lists tend to meet most of the army list requirements for CWC when using points values. What I tend to do is try and work out using the Micromark lists (which are dead cheap, like a quid or so a pop) what I want to field, then work out what the CWC point costs would be and tweak from there. Hes got lists for pretty much every force ever for WW2 and Moderns. Give us a shout if you want advice on what forces you are intending to do. if you stick to one of these TOEs from Mircomark you cant really go wrong. CWC is a good combined arms game, so you always need a good mix of troops and tanks. I tend to feild at least a batallion or so of infantry ( 9-12 stands depending on nation) and a couple of companies of tanks, some anti tank capabalities like ATGW equipped IFVs etc, and a couple of choppers/jets etc. Would it help if I posted what I use for say, my Iraq forces for 1991? Serotonin fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jun 2, 2012 |
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Jun 2, 2012 18:13
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I think I understand. So the lists that come with CWC are just whatever was available in the army for the period. What Micromark provides is a list of what is actually in a particular brigade/division, and a game scenario would typically pit one division against another one? I was just looking at stuff like this and I wasn't sure what to do with the list--get one of each? I think it makes sense then. The scenario you're playing out dictates the composition of forces, since you're pitting one army division against another rather than picking some arbitrary combo like fielding a dozen Hind helicopters because you feel like it. Am I getting it now?
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Jun 2, 2012 19:01
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You are. OK this isnt CWC but its BKC and this is for example my British force for Africa. I used a Micromark list (B16A British 7th Armoured Division) and the force is accurate to what they would have fielded at the time. 1 CO stand 1 HQ (for the armour)commanding: 8 stands of A-13 Tanks 4 stands of Vickers VIB tanks (this force is what the 2nd Royal Tank Regt used at the time) 1 HQ (for the motor battalion) commanding: 9 stands of infantry 3 stands of MG's, 3 stands of mortars. This represents 3 companies ( a battalion) of motor infantry. 3 Daimler Scout cars, to represent some support from the Divisional recce Regiment (11th Hussars). Then we have some brigade and divisional level support, such as 4 units of 25pder artillery (4th Horse artillery Regiment), 3 units of 2pdr portees (truck mounted ATG) representing the 3rd Royal Horse Artillery, 3 units of Bofors 40mm anti aircraft guns from the 106th Royal Horse Artillery. That comes out at about 2500 points and is pretty historically accurate for the time and is a nice balanced playable force. Im a bit of a nerd and use these Micromakr lists to help me make very themed forces, but if you ensure your armies are a nice balance of everything on the army list in the CWC/BKC book you cant go wrong really. You really dont need to be as nerdy as I am about it, but I find it fun to research this.
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Jun 2, 2012 21:13
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Also just noticed you linked the Soviet Airborne army list. Funny enough (I started collecting such a force and forgot about it half way through, really need to finish it!) I have the Micromark list (list R83M) for that right in front of me. So according to that list for 1983-1989 Afghanistan a Airborne Division would have had some of the following (obviously this would be the text book strength, in the field they would definitely be under strength) CO HQ (I would add another HQ in for flexibility in game, no harm in that) 9 Infantry units 9 RPG upgrades 9 IFV (BMD 1 or 2's) (for transport) depending on what year it is 3 SAM (SA-7) 3 Recce Units (Scouts) 3 Artillery Units (85mm) + Forward Artillery Observer Then add a couple of Hinds in for fun and that comes out as around 1955 points, which for CWC is quite a small force, but then again its pretty much an all infantry force and its going to be fighting a very infantry heavy foe too so it would make for a fun game.
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Jun 2, 2012 21:28
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I think I need to get my hands on these Micromark lists....
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Jun 2, 2012 23:14
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Arquinsiel posted:I think I need to get my hands on these Micromark lists.... The link Serotonin posted is kinda awkward to search IMO, but if you get the relevant free catalogue, it gives you all the reference numbers which means you can go straight for what you need.
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Jun 2, 2012 23:21
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For those of you who use Brookhurst Hobbies, how do I know what comes in each item? For example, with the Peter Pig 15mm US MG Team is it just the three figures pictured, or is it a set?
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Jun 3, 2012 03:41
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Danger - Octopus! posted:The link Serotonin posted is kinda awkward to search IMO, but if you get the relevant free catalogue, it gives you all the reference numbers which means you can go straight for what you need. LOL Id never noticed the free catalogues. I usually choose from a mix of browsing and then Facebook messaging Mark Bevis who writes them and saying 'help which list do I need for so and so' and he happily and patiently tells me! Im a bit useless.
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Jun 3, 2012 08:44
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At my LGS we've been playing a bunch of Tank Aces "pilot games" for the past couple of weeks. I'm really liking it less and less. The xp points earned seems to really favor the winner. In Infantry Aces you can get a max of 4 points as a winner, but could still come out with 3 points if you lost. In theory, with Tank Aces, you could have a game end with both having 4 points, but in practice it ends up with one person getting 6 points, and the other 1 point. My LGS is going to have a Tank Aces tourney sometime towards the end of the month. Still not sure what I want to run, but I may stick with the French 2eme that I ran last night. Otherwise, any FoW goons in NE Ohio want to help crash this thing? Would be a nice change of pace from playing the same 4 or 5 people.
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Jun 3, 2012 15:02
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I just noticed that Elhiem minis are making these. I have to get a pack just because. Which will inevitably lead to me buying another god-awful Airfix Scorpion to go with them.... *sigh*
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Jun 4, 2012 01:16
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Has anyone here melted down sprues to make bases? I don't feel like dishing out tons of money for proper bases, plus I need irregular sized ones for dioramas and stuff.
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Jun 4, 2012 03:02
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Ensign Expendable posted:Has anyone here melted down sprues to make bases? I don't feel like dishing out tons of money for proper bases, plus I need irregular sized ones for dioramas and stuff. This sounds like a really really really bad idea. Just sayin'. Use coins or washers or something. Or MDF board. Or Foamcore. Or pretty much anything else.
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Jun 4, 2012 03:17
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Bases aren't expensive. Does GF9 still offer their econobases? I bought a whole shitload for real cheap. And for FoF/AA I'm just gluing to pennies.
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Jun 4, 2012 04:54
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I ordered some plastic soldier company Panzer IV's and made up a 1000 point list to play against my friend. Would these 2 lists be a good match up? Panzerkompanie (Heer) Confident/Veteran 2 HQ PZ IVH 4 PZ IVH 3 PZ IVH 2 StuG G This is from the forces book and comes out exactly to 1000 points. I included the StuGs because they came with Achtung! and seemed to fit. I would pit this against: Guards Tank Company (Red Army) Confident/Trained 1 HQ T-34/85 6 T-34/85 w/cupola 6 T-34/85 w/cupola This is from Red Bear. Comes out to exactly 1000 points as well. From here I'd probably add support to each army, but I think it would be a good start. I'm hoping these 2 lists match well. On a related note, does anyone know a good spot to get some cheap terrain or maybe a guide to making it? I must've missed it if it was mentioned earlier in the thread. I'll probably try to find some stuff I can print on card stock initially, then get some nicer stuff as I go.
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Jun 6, 2012 00:27
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humannature posted:I ordered some plastic soldier company Panzer IV's and made up a 1000 point list to play against my friend. Would these 2 lists be a good match up? I just got some PSC Sherman M4A2/A3s. I haven't put them all together yet, but I'm already loving them. Will probably get the M1A1/A1(76mm) box set soon. From what I can see at a glance, you'll be harder to hit (Vet + H&C), but easier to kill. Your FA is 6, your enemy's AT is 12, which means if he hits he is almost guaranteed to bail you. Conversely, he'll be easier for you to hit, but harder to kill. I suggest trying to use cover to your advantage and using/abusing Storm Trooper to force your enemy to always move if he wants to shoot at you, forcing the +1 penalty for Hen & Chicks. Basically, stay out of 16" and in cover. Infantry and gun teams will really help you out once you start expanding. Not sure if you can manage a Tiger in 1000pts, but if you run 1500pts it couldn't hurt to bring one along.
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Jun 7, 2012 00:23
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So I recently got ahold of the Black Powder rulebook and me and my gaming group are considering buying models to use it. Question though: How much cash would I have to throw down for a basic start-up 28mm Napoleonic force? I can see boxes come with 40 or so men, but I don't have a frame of reference for how many I need to play, or how many units I need to form to have a starter game.
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Jun 10, 2012 02:51
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Flippycunt posted:So I recently got ahold of the Black Powder rulebook and me and my gaming group are considering buying models to use it. Are you doing 1 to 1? If so, probably a lot, but then that will also depend on the size of the battles you want. Black Powder is all about the size of the front ranks, and there's some discussion in the book itself that's worth checking out.
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Jun 10, 2012 14:08
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I honestly think that 2-3 boxes of Perry/Victrix/whatever per side is enough to get started with Napoleonics. Add a box or two of cavalry and some artillery too, and you have plenty of toys to play around with. Either way it will take a lot of time to paint up so many 28mm miniatures, even just assembling the plastics will take a considerable time if you buy too many of them. Don't fall into the trap of buying ten boxes of line infantry that are doomed to remain unopened in an attic somewhere. Perry's have a French army deal with 4 boxes of infantry, 3 boxes of cavalry, two packs of artillery and some officers. That is the absolutely the biggest sized army I'd start out with (almost 200 miniatures!). If you are several people it's easier though. Have one player paint British infantry, another doing all the artillery pieces etc., until someone gets fed up with the job, and then switch assignments. Painting 200 identical line infantry on your own can easily become a chore. 2-3 boxes of plastic infantry and a box of artillery or cavalry should run you around £60-80, depending on how good you are at resisting buying additional officers and other cool stuff. You can get them cheaper if you use some of the multi-box deals that Perry Miniatures or Victrix have available, or use a discount online store. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jun 10, 2012 |
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Jun 10, 2012 16:58
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Colonial Air Force posted:Are you doing 1 to 1? What do you mean? Like having each model represent a single soldier? lilljonas posted:I honestly think that 2-3 boxes of Perry/Victrix/whatever per side is enough to get started with Napoleonics. Add a box or two of cavalry and some artillery too, and you have plenty of toys to play around with. Either way it will take a lot of time to paint up so many 28mm miniatures, even just assembling the plastics will take a considerable time if you buy too many of them. Don't fall into the trap of buying ten boxes of line infantry that are doomed to remain unopened in an attic somewhere. Thanks. I've played Warhammer Fantasy and 40K for about a decade now so I have plenty of experience in tediously painting hundreds of identical soldier-mans, so I'm not too worried about that.
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Jun 10, 2012 17:42
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Flippycunt posted:What do you mean? Like having each model represent a single soldier? Fantasy is similar in that they have block regiments, but there's just fewer things you can do with your regiments in Fantasy. So coming from fantasy, 3-4 units per side might sound small. But in a good Napoleonics game, there's just way more tactics in how you use your regiments, arranging them in lines or attack columns or squares, etc.. Black Powder adds the posibility of quite daring moves, so it's not the same "shuffle forward exactly 8 inches per turn" as you have in Fantasy. So there's quite a bit of head scratching even with a small number of units. If you find that you like it you can of course fight larger battles, but you're better of waiting with that investment until you find out if you like wargaming in the period.
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Jun 10, 2012 18:55
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| # ? May 11, 2024 09:34 |
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lilljonas posted:Fantasy is similar in that they have block regiments, but there's just fewer things you can do with your regiments in Fantasy. So coming from fantasy, 3-4 units per side might sound small. But in a good Napoleonics game, there's just way more tactics in how you use your regiments, arranging them in lines or attack columns or squares, etc.. Would it be feasible to buy say, one box of infantry and split them up into a couple smaller units to get a feel for the game and decide if its something we're interested in playing? Edit: Also Black Powder doesn't seem to have very many pre-written unit stat blocks. Is that something we're just supposed to come up with on our own, or are there add-on books for different time periods?
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Jun 10, 2012 19:50
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