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PaintVagrant posted:Theres an infinity thread, its definitely a place where non-infinity players go to start arguments
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Jun 11, 2012 19:40
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Boiled Water posted:And yet the master artist who created this piece felt the purple hair was necessary. Can't you just proxy models from other ranges? People seem extremely fixated on using the "right" minis, which is very limiting, giving how many cool new companies are making great minis these days...
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Jun 11, 2012 19:42
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HardCoil posted:Can't you just proxy models from other ranges? People seem extremely fixated on using the "right" minis, which is very limiting, giving how many cool new companies are making great minis these days... No matter what system you use that would always boil down to your gaming group. I have a bunch of non-Infinity models that I am running as Ariadna, including some FCC MERCS and UNA AT-43 models. Obviously I couldn't use them at any Corvus Belli sanctioned events, but I don't ever expect to attend any, so that shouldn't be an issue. Same goes for my 40K stuff, proxies may fly at the FLGS or a beerhammer game, but not at tourneys; which is fine because I can't ever see myself willingly participating in a 40K tournament. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jun 11, 2012 |
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Jun 11, 2012 19:57
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My group is pretty lenient, and a lot of that is due to pervasive poverty, which makes any miniature game pretty difficult. Until she gets actual miniatures, one of my friend's Ariadna force looks like this: On the other hand, we've got several players who are running all official models, and some using proxies. EDIT: Terrible grammar... Signal fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jun 11, 2012 |
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Jun 11, 2012 20:43
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That is amazing.
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Jun 11, 2012 20:50
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Signal posted:My groups pretty lenient, and a lot of that is due to pervasive poverty, which makes any miniature game pretty difficult. Until she gets actual miniatures, her Ariadna force looks like this: Haha, I played miniature games in junior high school, when we were too young to have jobs. I detassled corn and walked beans to buy my mans. My friends would field such amazing proxies as Lego Merlin the hive tyrant, and Hero Quest Ghost the Lictor. I did call shenanigans when my best friend fielded 40 empty bases as 40 Chaos Space Marines with Auto Cannons. Hooray for Codex Imperialis rules! I think it was 2000 pts even or soemthing hilarious. These printouts are pretty damned respectable proxies.
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Jun 11, 2012 20:50
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I burned out on GW pretty hard with the increasingly bad meta-game and the fact that I was able to make a forgeworld army for less than it would have cost me to buy plastics from them. Of course none of this was able to stop me from buying the new ork bomma. It's loving boss, of course. Loaded with bitz, great detail, awesome casting, in general it's one of the nicer kits I've ever seen from them. I want to paint it using the salt technique for rust, but have been reading that people are losing their undercoat when taking the salt off, does anyone have a recommendation for a good rust undercoat I can use this way?
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Jun 11, 2012 21:36
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I don't know what the salt technique is, but: 1. paint your base, then paint your rust colors 2. use thinned liquid latex (called 'liquid mask' if you buy it pre-made) on a sponge and apply sparingly 3. paint your main color & highlights, do the wash 4. peel off liquid mask and touch up rust where you like
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Jun 11, 2012 21:55
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krushgroove posted:I don't know what the salt technique is, but: The salt technique is pretty much that but use a very thin layer of water then sprinkle on rock salt instead of the latex, then brush it off after the base coat has dried.
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Jun 11, 2012 22:15
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Gave our man a helmet. It's a sort of skateboard/vert helmet that I think spec ops people like and enjoy. It'll come together more when I add the straps, I hope. I'll polish the helmet a bit later, also.   Milliput is kind of cool but I suck with it so I'm sticking to brown stuff. Scraped off the milliput and added BS. I intend to heavily sand the result and go from there.  
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Jun 12, 2012 01:38
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Lookin good, hellbeard! Also, can anyone point me in the direction of an exhaust painting tutorial, or give me some advice on how to paint some thick, sooty exhaust? Basically i want to make the engines on the stormraven im painting look a bit less clean For reference:  Also weathering, if anyone knows a good quick and dirty way to figure out where the wear should go.
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Jun 12, 2012 16:02
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It's pretty simple: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2009/05/painting-soot-stained-gun-barrels-quick.html There's also one for heat staining:  http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-paint-heat-stained-gun-barrels.html
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Jun 12, 2012 18:39
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I always painted my 15mm miniatures on strips of wood, but with the latest project (a commission on a samurai army) I tried something new, and it works perfectly. Cash! WIP: 
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Jun 12, 2012 20:21
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I got some slightly better pics of my latest batch of terminators.   Bunch more pic spam over at the blog.
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Jun 12, 2012 23:25
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/\/\/\/\ Those are really nice! Also, I like that heat staining metal effect! Polished the helmet, If you know what I mean. I mean I sanded it down. Added a boot and some mass.     Edit: \/\/\/ ...and thanks for the compliment 
Hellbeard fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jun 13, 2012 |
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Jun 12, 2012 23:33
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MasterSlowPoke posted:It's pretty simple: oh hell yes, thanks a bunch.
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Jun 13, 2012 00:16
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Hello everyone. I am currently painting up my IG army after a long hiatus from the game. Anyway, I have a question about basing. My IG army is, fluff wise, specialized in urban combat. As such, I would really like my bases to reflect this environment. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas for making some nice urban bases, at a relatively low cost. I have basing materials. (sand, stone, rocks for rubble) I have a squad of IG troopers already glued directly to the standard black bases since I got them like this from a friend, so I was hoping that there was something feasible that could be used on these guys as well, and still maintain a nice cohesive look across the board. Edit: And I just looked at the list of GW paints because I knew that they released some new paints. Looks like my main army color that I have used on my infantry, as well as two tanks is gone. Does anyone have any supplements for the following paints? Chardon Granite Adeptus Battlegrey Codex Grey If not, does anyone know where to buy the old pots of paint. Chardon Granite is the big one that I need more than anything. jadebullet fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jun 13, 2012 |
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Jun 13, 2012 01:01
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Codex Grey is now Dawnstone. Adeptus Battlegrey is now Mechanicus Standard Grey. Chardon Granite is now Stormvermin Fur. Here's a PDF with all the color conversions: http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2320032a_Citadel_Conversion_Chart
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Jun 13, 2012 01:42
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Stormvermin is light, and looks nothing like Chardon sadly. My one friend has a pot of it, and it has the sort of brownish hue right, but it is way too light.
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Jun 13, 2012 02:23
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Yeah they messed with he formulas a bit. the new colors are all nice, but you just can't get some of the old colors out of them most of the time.
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Jun 13, 2012 02:31
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I really liked Charadon too. Here's an article I found about a replacement, along with comparison pics.
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Jun 13, 2012 02:31
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Yeah, looks like P3 is your best bet, Jade.
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Jun 13, 2012 02:42
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Yeah, I read that as well. Unfortunately, as he mentions, he isn't looking for color, but for effect. I am looking for just the opposite, color, but not effect.(once again, too light) Unfortunatley, my tanks and infantry are currently painted with the nice dark granite as the main paint color of the army. Does anyone know if there are any other lines that have a color that is close, like that Valero company or whatever it is called? I still have half a tub of the granite left, but I am starting to get worried that I will have to change colors halfway through and my army will look like poo poo.
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Jun 13, 2012 02:42
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jadebullet posted:Yeah, I read that as well. Unfortunately, as he mentions, he isn't looking for color, but for effect. I am looking for just the opposite, color, but not effect.(once again, too light) I have seen Vallejo Model Color German Grey (995) or Game Color Heavy Charcoal (155) suggested, but can't speak from personal experience.
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Jun 13, 2012 03:05
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Ye Worse User-name posted:I have seen Vallejo Model Color German Grey (995) or Game Color Heavy Charcoal (155) suggested, but can't speak from personal experience. Game Color Heavy Charcoal is almost completely black, it's very very dark grey. E: from looking at the comparison link, it actually looks a lot like a match for Charadon. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Jun 13, 2012 |
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Jun 13, 2012 08:21
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jadebullet posted:Yeah, I read that as well. Unfortunately, as he mentions, he isn't looking for color, but for effect. I am looking for just the opposite, color, but not effect.(once again, too light) This is what I did  Some of the Black Lava texture paint, codex grey, washed with devlin mud.
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Jun 13, 2012 14:42
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My kingdom for tips on how to keep brushes from curling. (someone please help me, I just bought new brushes and they're already getting bad)
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Jun 13, 2012 15:31
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Store them tip-up for one, just in case you're not already. But before you buy them it's worth looking at them very closely to make sure they aren't already tending to curl or split. I'm not sure what folks recommend for fixing brushes, I would think that just cutting the hairs away at the tip is a good thing. Maybe for a second-tier brush, but not for your main one. I have a question for UK painters - if you can't get hold of Simple Green, what do you use to take paint off figures? I have some that I bought off eBay and I'm not sure I want to put new primer or paint on top of half-painted models - first of all, is putting primer over paint a bad thing? Would the paint build up too much, or is that even a concern?
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Jun 13, 2012 15:43
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So I've never painted any minis before (well I primed mine with spray paint the other day) and I'm going to dive in later and start painting my Chaos Marine army. Couple of dumb questions though-when I bought my paints I just kind of went with "what colors do I like" so I wasn't paying attention to which were "base" or "layer" or whatever. Does that really matter though? Like, can I put a base on top of a base or a layer directly on the primer? Or will that end up making it all look like poo poo (or rather more poo poo in my case). Also, the only wash I got was the black one, should I bother with the colored ones? My army's primary color is a dark purple (Naggarath Night I think it's called), so I figured I'd be fine with just the black wash. Thanks!
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Jun 13, 2012 15:45
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Humerus posted:So I've never painted any minis before (well I primed mine with spray paint the other day) and I'm going to dive in later and start painting my Chaos Marine army. Couple of dumb questions though-when I bought my paints I just kind of went with "what colors do I like" so I wasn't paying attention to which were "base" or "layer" or whatever. Does that really matter though? Like, can I put a base on top of a base or a layer directly on the primer? Or will that end up making it all look like poo poo (or rather more poo poo in my case). Also, the only wash I got was the black one, should I bother with the colored ones? My army's primary color is a dark purple (Naggarath Night I think it's called), so I figured I'd be fine with just the black wash. Bases are generally higher pigment, while layers are a little more translucent and better for layering. You can use them however you want, you should just be aware what they are made for and so layers will, for instance, have a harder time covering over black. The brown wash (agrax earthshade) is also really useful, and some of the colored ones like the flesh or sepia are as well. You might try the purple one for your purple marines.
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Jun 13, 2012 16:29
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Dr. Lenin posted:My kingdom for tips on how to keep brushes from curling. Don't wash them in hot water.
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Jun 13, 2012 16:33
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Dominion posted:Bases are generally higher pigment, while layers are a little more translucent and better for layering. You can use them however you want, you should just be aware what they are made for and so layers will, for instance, have a harder time covering over black. I think the only layers I have (I'm at school so I can't check) are metallic: brass, gold, and silver. So for those should I put down a base coat first, like yellow or grey? Or will they cover up black prime fine on their own?
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Jun 13, 2012 16:40
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Humerus posted:I think the only layers I have (I'm at school so I can't check) are metallic: brass, gold, and silver. So for those should I put down a base coat first, like yellow or grey? Or will they cover up black prime fine on their own? I haven't used the new GW paints but if they are similar to the old ones then the silvers/steel colors should cover fine but the golds need some help with a yellow or brown undercoat.
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Jun 13, 2012 16:41
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I actually am not crazy about their new Boltgun Metal equivalent. It's much more prone to separating, and the shade is just different enough to be noticeable.
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Jun 13, 2012 16:52
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Even after you wash it?
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Jun 13, 2012 16:57
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To be fair I've only used it once, but it did seem a bit darker. I'm assembly painting 5 different Rhino chassis vehicles right now, so when I wash the treads and stuff tonight I'll take a close look and see. There's a good chance I'm just talking out of my rear end, heh.
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Jun 13, 2012 17:04
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Ive always found boltgun to be just too dark in general. Sounds like the new one is even worse, maybe. I tend to just mix a touch of mithril or some lighter metal in (or I just buy p3 pig iron)
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Jun 13, 2012 17:36
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Are P3 metallics that good? I know the old ones were shite, how do the new ones hold up? I really like the P3 range so far.
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Jun 13, 2012 18:10
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The silvers are fine. The golds and coppers are iffy, but Ive basically switched to using golden fluid acrylics for all of my non-silver metallics anyways.
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Jun 13, 2012 19:28
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Fyrbrand posted:To be fair I've only used it once, but it did seem a bit darker. I'm assembly painting 5 different Rhino chassis vehicles right now, so when I wash the treads and stuff tonight I'll take a close look and see. There's a good chance I'm just talking out of my rear end, heh. It is a little darker for sure, and the metallic flake is nowhere near as fine as old bolt gun metal.
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Jun 13, 2012 20:22
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