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So any of y'all near Wichita, and secondly, if not, anyone know good shops in the area?
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Jun 10, 2012 02:52
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Sockington posted:Good thing you didn't say N/A Impreza! My '06 5-speed has sucked up quite a few more-than-120ftlb launches at autox. Save yourself like $5k and throw $200 5-speeds at it until you learn to drive. 
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Jun 10, 2012 03:59
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Save yourself like $5k and throw $200 5-speeds at it until you learn to drive. I do have a wife that has very little grasp on the whole manual thing to start with.  Edit: I don't want to swap from the auto box, just it's the last thing left to change on the wagon. I put that massive trans cooler in there to preserve it as long as possible. Sockington fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jun 10, 2012 |
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Jun 10, 2012 04:15
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jamal posted:Oh there are benefits to just doing the pitch stop: Shifting feels a little better and if you have an aftermarket radiator it keeps the engine from pitching forward and cutting the upper hose with the alternator pulley. I see. I kind of want to do it just because I feel like doing an easy/ cheap thing to the car. What I don't understand is why all the companies use aluminum for the pitch stop body. The same bushings with a steel body would be stiffer, stronger, and transmit less nvh. I guess it would be heavier, but by maybe 20% on a one or three pound part? I don't get it. This type of poo poo makes me look at pricing for mills and lathes. I feel like I could do better than the available offerings. Maybe not though. Speaking of, the new perrin unit looks like the kart boy. I don't mean to stir up poo poo, but what's the "real" story with Perrin? People seem to love them or hate them, but it looks like they make decent stuff. I have no Perrin parts, but have wanted a couple, especially the jam that increases thesteering ratio. I think allonblack bought them but I'm not sure if he ever installed them before he sold his car. The part seemed unreliable for anything but dry summer track duty and like it could cause trouble in the power steering pump due to increased loads/heat.
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Jun 10, 2012 06:20
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My Perrin inlet is pretty good. Most of the poo poo in my car is either TiC, Grimmspeed, or Cobb though.
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Jun 10, 2012 14:27
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm getting P0103 and P0170 codes on my EJ22 '97 Impreza and the drivability at low revs has gone to poo poo (hesitation and bucking) when I clear those codes. I had my MAF go out in my '97 as well. Replacing it with a junkyard one was $50. Cleaning my original one with MAF cleaner didn't do anything.
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Jun 11, 2012 06:24
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zantar posted:I had my MAF go out in my '97 as well. Replacing it with a junkyard one was $50. Cleaning my original one with MAF cleaner didn't do anything. I did get a nice hood-scoop hood from that OBS though; that's a desirable item for turbo swaps around here so I might be able to scam my way into getting some new parts with it. The junkyard checkout staff were amazed that it was a stock hood.
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Jun 11, 2012 14:16
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toplitzin posted:So any of y'all near Wichita, and secondly, if not, anyone know good shops in the area? It's really not that bad. I did mine in an evening after I hosed up my rear main seal (  ).
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Jun 11, 2012 16:31
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Blaise posted:It's really not that bad. I did mine in an evening after I hosed up my rear main seal (  I've got nothing broken at the moment, but I have Koni's that need installing, and a full set of ploy bushings to go in. But now I live in an apartment, so I can't do any of my own maintenance anymore.
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Jun 11, 2012 22:28
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Do I have any bushing/suspension options for a third gen legacy. They have a loving ridiculous looking rear setup. I'm sure the car needs a refresh at 190k miles. I might just rock auto some GR2's and call it a day, but if I have to pull the rear subframe I want to upgrade other poo poo while I'm in there.
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Jun 12, 2012 00:22
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Ahem. I have a guy offering me a 2002 WRX Wagon Longblock, Turbo, accessories, wiring harness and ECU for $500. It has 260,000 KM (or 161,000 miles) on it. He said the engine is in good shape. I was thinking of picking it up and swapping it out for my 2002 2.5TS Wagon that burns a quart of oil every 1000 miles. I know I need a fuel pump, the ENTIRE harness & sensors, the cross-member, a new clutch to match my transmission and RS flywheel, exhaust and intake. What about the radiator? Will my RS one work? Is this a terrible, or awesome idea? I have someone local who wants to buy my RS heads off me too, to offset the cost. As well as a bunch of Subaru nuts who love doing poo poo like this and have infinitely more knowledge than me. Just thought I'd ask AI too!
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Jun 12, 2012 01:31
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My 04 WRX wagon is acting up again. It has 77k on the odometer, manual transmission, and Cobb Stage 1 as the only mod. I changed the coolant back in Jan/Feb, and the car had been fine. In the last day or so I smelled coolant burning, and finally looked under the hood after the temp gauge starting wandering up and down, and I found that the overflow reservoir was just about empty, and there are coolant stains/residue all over the front of the engine, air intake, radiator, as well as the top of the exhaust. It looks like there is some sort of leak, however I could not recreate it in the driveway. There has not been any puddles under the car either. I added some coolant to fill the overflow tank to the full line to buy myself some time. I plan to take the car in ASAP, I was just wondering if anyone knew what I am/may be looking at here. FWIW, I checked the oil and it seemed normal, and the exhaust is also normal with no white smoke. Are there other signs of a blown head gasket or other major issues I should look for?
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Jun 12, 2012 01:52
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Mercury Ballistic posted:My 04 WRX wagon is acting up again. It has 77k on the odometer, manual transmission, and Cobb Stage 1 as the only mod. I changed the coolant back in Jan/Feb, and the car had been fine. In the last day or so I smelled coolant burning, and finally looked under the hood after the temp gauge starting wandering up and down, and I found that the overflow reservoir was just about empty, and there are coolant stains/residue all over the front of the engine, air intake, radiator, as well as the top of the exhaust. It looks like there is some sort of leak, however I could not recreate it in the driveway. There has not been any puddles under the car either. I added some coolant to fill the overflow tank to the full line to buy myself some time. I plan to take the car in ASAP, I was just wondering if anyone knew what I am/may be looking at here. FWIW, I checked the oil and it seemed normal, and the exhaust is also normal with no white smoke. Are there other signs of a blown head gasket or other major issues I should look for? Leaking waterpump? Waterpump is on the front of the motor. Friend is driving his car around with a slight waterpump leak and has similar characteristics, just less coolant loss.
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Jun 12, 2012 02:04
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Slow is Fast posted:Do I have any bushing/suspension options for a third gen legacy. They have a loving ridiculous looking rear setup. Any rear suspension part except the swaybar that fits an 05-09 Legacy fits your car. So whiteline makes a set of adjustable links for them and I think you can get all the bushings too.
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Jun 12, 2012 02:47
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Quick question I was hoping I could get answered here - I have a 1984 Leone wagon, the locks have been replaced at some point - well, the ignition has been and the drivers side door has been, both on different keys. The passenger side and back gate are both on the original key. 3 keys! The original key is wearing out and the drivers side just snapped off in the lock so I need to replace both of those. Whew backstory! Can I buy some generic off the shelf lock replacement or do I need a Subaru specific lock? Should I be looking at wreckers for a 2nd hand part? I live in bumfuck, Australia so the chances of something being close by are minimal, I've already tried the closest wreckers. tl:dr - replacement locks for a 1984 Leone wagon - where from?
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Jun 13, 2012 06:23
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toplitzin posted:So any of y'all near Wichita, and secondly, if not, anyone know good shops in the area? I don't know of any good shops in wichita to be honest. I just got my 2011 WRX about 4 months ago and besides changing the oil myself I haven't needed any other work. I afraid of the day that I do. Let me know if you find one.
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Jun 13, 2012 21:52
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Wendigee posted:I don't know of any good shops in wichita to be honest. If you have a house and tools, I have beer. I've gone stage two in my own garage with the help of Wrar, and done some other work myself as well.
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Jun 13, 2012 22:42
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Getting an alignment on my LGT tomorrow. Any recommendations for specs to ask for? From what I've gathered, it sounds like 0 toe all around, 1-1.5 degrees negative camber up front, 0.5 to 1 degrees less camber in the rear (not sure if my rear camber is even adjustable...it isn't a full strut assembly with a camber bolt like the front) and max positive caster up front (adjustable via offset LCA bushings) would be a good starting point. This car is my daily driver, so I don't want settings that will significantly increase tire wear.
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Jun 14, 2012 01:52
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Hey cool, apparently my clutch completely and suddenly disintegrated. 
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Jun 15, 2012 03:19
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I'm officially picking up a 2002 WRX motor on Saturday to replace the dying 2.5RS in my wagon. For $650 I'm getting: Engine, ECU, Wiring harness and all sensors, turbo, all accessories like alternator, power steering, etc, boost solenoid, fuel pump controller, cross-member, and exhaust to the cat. 260,000 KM's but he says it runs great and has maintenance history on it. I'm stoked! Seems like an absolutely wicked deal, and I have a ton of friends to help with the swap. BOOST!
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Jun 15, 2012 06:01
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Sounds like a really good deal. Congratulations! I'd kill for that kind of deal in Alberta. There are some vendors that do wiring harness merges but it doesn't seem like a difficult task; just incredibly boring. Don't forget to update the engine mounts, replace any consumables and do all the little fiddly maintenance (cam seals, timing belt, water pump) while it's out. Also be sure to inspect the turbo for shaft play - a TD04 at that many miles is probably pretty close to being dead.
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Jun 15, 2012 06:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Sounds like a really good deal. Congratulations! I'd kill for that kind of deal in Alberta. Yeah I'm pretty stoked - it's worth a least $1500. Wiring harness should honestly be plug and play, as its coming from a 2002 Wagon, which is the identical year/style mine is. I'm going to get a new ACT clutch for my RS trans, Group N everything mount wise, and put new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, and maybe new bearings in the motor as well. Turbo will be looked at - I have definite sources for more here in Kelowna if I need one. Definitely going to take my time and do this right.
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Jun 15, 2012 07:29
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MrZig posted:Yeah I'm pretty stoked - it's worth a least $1500. Wiring harness should honestly be plug and play, as its coming from a 2002 Wagon, which is the identical year/style mine is. I'm going to get a new ACT clutch for my RS trans, Group N everything mount wise, and put new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, and maybe new bearings in the motor as well. Turbo will be looked at - I have definite sources for more here in Kelowna if I need one. you talking main bearings? If you're doing that you might as well get some forged pistons to throw in there so you can go with a bigger turbo down the road if you want to.
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Jun 15, 2012 07:41
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Amandyke posted:you talking main bearings? If you're doing that you might as well get some forged pistons to throw in there so you can go with a bigger turbo down the road if you want to. Ehh.. It's gotta stop some where. I'd rather just do an entire STi drivetrain swap than mess around with a WRX motor for high hp. The most I want to do is a Cobb Stage 2, which is an up pipe, down pipe, cat back & Cobb map.
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Jun 15, 2012 07:43
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MrZig posted:Ehh.. It's gotta stop some where. I'd rather just do an entire STi drivetrain swap than mess around with a WRX motor for high hp. The most I want to do is a Cobb Stage 2, which is an up pipe, down pipe, cat back & Cobb map. I'm confused as to what bearings you're talking about then.
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Jun 15, 2012 08:59
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MrZig posted:I'm officially picking up a 2002 WRX motor on Saturday to replace the dying 2.5RS in my wagon. Yea, that's almost a "too good to be true" type deal. I'd be suspicious. Just a longblock of a working WRZ motor is at least $2000 to $2500.
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Jun 15, 2012 11:59
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My wife's 08 Outback 2.5i is due for a transmission/PS fluid swap. My manual just recommends Subaru's ATF. Is there anything over the counter I could get locally instead that wouldn't hurt? I hate paying to ship that stuff, although I will if that's my best option.
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Jun 15, 2012 13:55
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daslog posted:Yea, that's almost a "too good to be true" type deal. I'd be suspicious. Just a longblock of a working WRZ motor is at least $2000 to $2500. It's got a lot of kms, and I'm not sure that the guy is too familiar with WRX's by talking to him.
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Jun 15, 2012 18:37
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MrZig posted:Ehh.. It's gotta stop some where. I'd rather just do an entire STi drivetrain swap than mess around with a WRX motor for high hp. The most I want to do is a Cobb Stage 2, which is an up pipe, down pipe, cat back & Cobb map. I wouldn't do forged pistons because of potential upgradablity, I'd do it because Subaru pistons are made of cheese and can and do fail in stock cars, much less stg 2. Having the motor out and not replacing those poo poo pistons just seems foolish. -A guy who blew up 2 2.5 pistons on less mods than you propose. Edit: See now that it is a 2.0. Ignore me.
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Jun 15, 2012 23:30
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Thanks, now I'm certain I'll blow a piston as soon as I get the new clutch in.
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Jun 16, 2012 00:35
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Are the 2.0 motors as succeptible to piston failures as the 2.5? I dont really want to do any major replacements.
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Jun 16, 2012 02:26
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MrZig posted:Are the 2.0 motors as succeptible to piston failures as the 2.5? I dont really want to do any major replacements. In terms of power per liter? No. As was mentioned very recently in this thread bearing failure seems to be a primary mechanism of failure for the EJ205. In my rather inexperienced opinion this is probably due to a lack of oil and/or high miles. Theyre kinda infamous for crap baffling and needing to be overfull for autox.
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Jun 16, 2012 02:31
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Here's the weaknesses of each motor as I understand it, Jamal will probably show up and poop on me. The 2.0s blow up because the rods deform and the rod bearings are no longer spaced to spec due to the rod deformation. So while it's spun a rod bearing, it's the result of the rod moving around. The 2.5s blow up because of various issues, the legacy ones because of oil change intervals or the banjo screens or other various neglect. The 08+ wrx subaru changed pistons vs the older 2.5s and they're made of silly putty. So if you're building a new 2.5, pop in different pistons. The 2.0's are relatively stout and my friends lasted to 250k miles.
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Jun 16, 2012 03:05
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The bearings and oil pump are identical between the 2.0 and 2.5. The big difference is that the 2.0 uses the older square pan which is much more susceptible to oil starvation. Some of the older cranks have a little different drilling of the oil passages, but swapping to a different pan makes a big difference. I'm slightly afraid to go auto-x until I upgrade having spun a bearing on two separate occasions due to high rpm and cornering load. The 2.0 rods aren't much different from 2.5 rods, although the 2.5 parts are a little stronger and use better fasteners. ALL the 2.5 pistons are cast and not very good, but I have always heard that the process changed in 06 and as far as the STI is concerned I have seen many more cracked pistons on the 06+ cars vs 04-05. Part of that could also be the stock tune, which sucks balls. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 03:14
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Piston design changed to a hyper cast type mid my06. So all ej255, 257 past that date have the potential to be bad.
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Jun 16, 2012 05:35
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Amandyke posted:Piston design changed to a hyper cast type mid my06. So all ej255, 257 past that date have the potential to be bad.
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Jun 16, 2012 06:15
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I have a 2003 outback impreza and my ac clutch went out. So instead of buying a new clutch I just bought the whole unit but to my surprise when I put it back in the new compressor was round and didn't fit. (The old one is more square) I got this part from autozone and I would like to not have this problem again so I looked up the model number on the original part Zexel 506221-4640 and the part that comes up fits a legacy 1997-1999. So I have no idea what to do. I'm hoping that someone here has run into this problem before and can help.
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Jun 16, 2012 15:08
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Did you tell them it was an Outback Impreza or just an Impreza? They may have tried to give you the Legacy/Outback 2.5L part instead of the Impreza part.
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Jun 16, 2012 15:37
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http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Everco-A-C-Compressor/_/N-91sgi?itemIdentifier=994108_0_0_ is the part that I ordered. Pretty sure thats the right model and everything. That is why I'm so confused. Since the part that was in the car when I checked the model on it said it came out of a legacy. If I were to order the part from rock auto would I just order an Impreza part since they only have outback as an option?
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Jun 16, 2012 19:38
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So while doing a highway on-ramp pull this week, I've noticed I'm only pulling 5psi of boost at WOT. No cel, or other strange behavior. Tactrix cable has been ordered and is on it's way. Only recent changes have been crossing the Mississippi, and only being able to get 91 octane instead of 93. I'm tuned at stage 2 for 91 anyway. Once I get the Tactrix, I'll pull and post logs. However, Wrar feels this is most likely from the ECU learning on 93 and now running on 91, and recommends a reset of the ECU. comments, suggestions, just wait for the Tactrix box? Duh: 02 wrx @ stage two ( intake, catless dp, catless up, and 3" exhaust)
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Jun 17, 2012 04:36
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