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Flippycunt posted:Would it be feasible to buy say, one box of infantry and split them up into a couple smaller units to get a feel for the game and decide if its something we're interested in playing? Sure, easiest way is to just make big squares of cardboard that are roughly the right size, and then plant some miniatures on them so that you can see what they represent. You're probably going to end up with a basing scheme where you have several miniatures on one larger base (the default that Perry ships with is 6 miniatures on one base, I don't know about Victrix). So just plant one of those bases on the square, and everyone can see that it's infantry. There are books for different periods, or rather, they just released a book covering the Pike and Shotte period in greater details. No doubt there will be more coming later, as they seem to sell plenty of copies of the rules. There are plenty of home-made versions for specific periods if you look at forums and such, start at Warlord Games, who publish the rules: http://warlordgames.com/forum/index.php
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# ? Jun 10, 2012 21:19 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 18:54 |
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On the advice of the thread here I picked Black Powder to do Napoleonics after a dude at a con made me think the period looks awesome on the table. Using HäT plastics I've got the bones of a French and a British army for about 30 euro. 20mil - the scale of KINGS I tell you.
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# ? Jun 11, 2012 20:53 |
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Arquinsiel posted:On the advice of the thread here I picked Black Powder to do Napoleonics after a dude at a con made me think the period looks awesome on the table. Using HäT plastics I've got the bones of a French and a British army for about 30 euro. I'm using 20mm (well, 1/72) for FoF/AA since it's so easy to find vehicles and models.
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# ? Jun 11, 2012 21:37 |
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20 mm has its points. I had a bit of a hiatus from 15 mm, but now that I'm painting some Peter Pig on commission, it feels drat nice. Will stay with 6mm for napoleonics, though.
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# ? Jun 11, 2012 22:29 |
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After consulting my friends we changed from 15mm (had a rough time getting things to look right, every company's 15mm is different scale) to 28mm. Perry and Victrix really are great stuff and cheap prices. Try Wayland Games, they airmail stuff to the US and its cheaper that ground shipping here, no idea why. They also both have distributors here in the US (the WarStore carries em both, Victrix have lots of distribs). Front Rank also make a nice looking 28mm napoleonics fig. Yeah it will take longer to paint up, but this was never a immediate type of purchase for us, we are going big battles using Black Powder, and after painting a few of the 15mms guys I wanted to do more detail right away.
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# ? Jun 11, 2012 22:57 |
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This seems like the thread to ask this in: What scale and rules would you guys use for wargaming in the Song of Ice and Fire/Game of Thrones universe? Since its basically going to end up as a historicals game with the names filed off owing to the fact that the setting doesn't really have combat magic or anything like that. So ideally something for 1400's Europe. I am prejudiced towards doing 1/72 because its my favorite scale, but someone else suggested using the GW LotR rules and a combination of LotR and Perry miniatures (since they are the same scale and style). I would want something that could go from a small skirmish of about twenty guys per side to a more robust a huge conflict.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 05:56 |
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At the smaller end of the scale, apparently GW's Legends of the Old West is actually rather amazing at skimish scale and isn't as focused on shooting as you'd think. Never played it myself, but should be cinematic enough for ASOFAI.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 06:11 |
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Legends of the Old West is Lord of the Rings with the serial numbers filed off. Don't tell New Line Colonial Air Force posted:I'm using 20mm (well, 1/72) for FoF/AA since it's so easy to find vehicles and models. El Estrago Bonito posted:What scale and rules would you guys use for wargaming in the Song of Ice and Fire/Game of Thrones universe? Since its basically going to end up as a historicals game with the names filed off owing to the fact that the setting doesn't really have combat magic or anything like that.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 06:16 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:At the smaller end of the scale, apparently GW's Legends of the Old West is actually rather amazing at skimish scale and isn't as focused on shooting as you'd think. Never played it myself, but should be cinematic enough for ASOFAI. Yeah, honestly Legends of the High Seas/Old West is probably better. The main reason LOTR was an option was that it scales up with War of the Ring really well. I like Legends a lot but its not terribly good for medieval skirmish gaming.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 09:38 |
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From the sounds of wht you are looking for I would second saga. Since the actual units them selves are fairly generic it would be fairy easy to skin over. At first you could use the army battle boards from the game until you get a feel for them and maybe build up some fluffier ones.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 10:15 |
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The Fantasy Flight Games wargame uses 20mm, I think. Soft plastic and unpainted, but it does exist. The rules are based on C&C/Battlelore, with a few tweaks to make leadership more character-based. It's probably not what you want, but it is a Game of Thrones miniatures game.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 13:15 |
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True, I forgot about that actually.No Pun Intended posted:From the sounds of wht you are looking for I would second saga. Since the actual units them selves are fairly generic it would be fairy easy to skin over. At first you could use the army battle boards from the game until you get a feel for them and maybe build up some fluffier ones. Stark: Vikings/Saxons. Greyjoy: Vikings/Saxons. Baratheon: Normans. Lannister: Normans. Martell: Normans. I think Saga works pretty well.
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# ? Jun 12, 2012 13:31 |
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So a couple of my friends have started playing Flames of War and I am interested in getting in on the action but I am having a bit of trouble deciding on what to play. I was thinking about starting a US Cavalry Recon Troop but then I heard someone say that armored car armies were really annoying to play against so I ask you guys; Am I going to be "that guy" if I play a armored car recon force?
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# ? Jun 18, 2012 05:52 |
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So I am interested in maybe some historical battles with Roman Legionnaires, Nepolianic allies and maybe some modern stuff(UN Peace keeping force) and I already have models in 15mm(1/100) so I was wondering if there are some pretty good stuff for this and some rules that may work for me.
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# ? Jun 22, 2012 07:40 |
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The Red Rabbit posted:So a couple of my friends have started playing Flames of War and I am interested in getting in on the action but I am having a bit of trouble deciding on what to play. I was thinking about starting a US Cavalry Recon Troop but then I heard someone say that armored car armies were really annoying to play against so I ask you guys; Am I going to be "that guy" if I play a armored car recon force? I would argue that person needs to grow a pair of balls and stop whining, and learn to build an army. Seriously, Armored Infantry and Armored Cav roll around in what, FA 1? A 37mm will kill that easily. The only thing I can think he's upset about is that Recon/Recce platoons can remove 'Gone to Ground' status from dug in troops. Oh, boo hoo, his dug in Confident Vet German fortified company can now actually be killed. Play what you want. There really isn't much in the way of cheese right now, so you'll be fine with anything you pick. Otherwise, "Devil's Charge" has been officially announced, with Audie Murphy as a featured warrior. Could be fun.
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# ? Jun 22, 2012 11:13 |
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I'm in a bit of a bind. I bought a couple of packs of historical wargame minis a couple years back - they are plastic and 15mm I believe. I don't remember the brand name of the packs but I want to buy some more in order to paint them and use them for a tabletop game my friends and I are running that will soon feature massed battles. Anyway, I did some searching around and just can't find more packs like them. The first pack is about 20 or so pikemen in various poses with shields that peg on their backs. The second is a group of 15 or so crossbowmen in various stages of firing/reloading. I'm wanting to get more like these on the cheap. Where would be a good place to start looking? Edit - I looked at Corvus Belli and I don't think my figs are from that company. The figs I have look more like tiny Perry figures (more realistic) but of lesser quality than Perry. Unzip and Attack fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jun 22, 2012 |
# ? Jun 22, 2012 19:38 |
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Any chance you can take pictures? That would help immensely.
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# ? Jun 22, 2012 20:10 |
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Especially if you have a ruler nearby in the photo!
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# ? Jun 22, 2012 20:24 |
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Sure - I'll post pics as soon as I get home.
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# ? Jun 22, 2012 20:59 |
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Herr Tog posted:So I am interested in maybe some historical battles with Roman Legionnaires, Nepolianic allies and maybe some modern stuff(UN Peace keeping force) and I already have models in 15mm(1/100) so I was wondering if there are some pretty good stuff for this and some rules that may work for me.
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 01:16 |
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I'm curious, is there a (good/playable) ruleset that lets me mix and match sides/units from different time periods? Like I want to play a modern mechanized infantry company against late medieval armies or something like that? Preferably in 6mm scale so I could field a superior company vastly outnumbered by a low-tech force.
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 02:38 |
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Does anyone have any favorite websites/recommendations for 6mm terrain? (collecting 6mm baccus napoleonics)
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 02:59 |
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Pierzak posted:I'm curious, is there a (good/playable) ruleset that lets me mix and match sides/units from different time periods? Like I want to play a modern mechanized infantry company against late medieval armies or something like that? Preferably in 6mm scale so I could field a superior company vastly outnumbered by a low-tech force. Oddly enough your best bet here may be Warhammer Fantasy 4th edition and 40k 1st ed/Rogue Trader. There were rules in the Siege book for mixing things that way and actually taking weapon and armour differences into account. Also Chaos Lords could have meltaguns in regular Fantasy back then and it was silly by GW standards.
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 03:28 |
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Or just play a Civilizations game :v
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 14:07 |
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Colonial Air Force posted:Or just play a Civilizations game :v
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 14:20 |
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I don't know if any rulesets exist per se (although it's the internet, they probably do) but you could extrapolate some of it based on any Zulu rulesets (like Black Powder), or even Ambush Alley (just give the irregulars close combat weapons only).
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 14:27 |
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For mixing ancients and moderns, you could look at Hordes of the Things (or Hott), a DBA fantasy variant. It might not be exactly what you're after as differences in weaponry or army size won't be that big, but it allows you to build armies of pretty much anything imaginable. Here's a site with lists: http://meadhall.org.uk/listlist.htm
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 15:31 |
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Jim Wallman's War in Hell (PDF) isn't totally serious, and is fairly abstract, but you can mix modern, sf, historical and fantasy figures in the legions and choirs. He has a lot of games, and they're well worth browsing no matter what period or genre you're into.
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 16:32 |
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Dirt Worshipper posted:Does anyone have any favorite websites/recommendations for 6mm terrain? (collecting 6mm baccus napoleonics) Timecast http://www.timecastmodels.co.uk/ Angel Barracks http://angelbarracks.co.uk/ Both are run by nice people that I talked to before launching my own line, and they were super friendly. In other news, I played my first game of Lasalle, so I thought I would review it. Lasalle is a game of Napoleonic warfare. You play as the leader of a couple of brigades, so imagine a meeting between small armies or a section of a larger battlefield. The rules are simple, and fast. Really fast. Only one of us had "read" the rules before, and even with him teaching me and another beginner with only the PDF rules, we managed to learn the rules and play a game in the time that the neighbouring table got through half a WHFB game. Lasalle has a simple army building system, covering most participants between 1806 and 1815, divided into several periods. We tried to play with armies half the size of the standard armies of the rulebook, and it worked great. So as the attacker I fielded four brigades of line infantry (each one four bases), two brigades of dragoons and one battery of foot artillery. The defending side had two brigades less. Even with full armies, the pace of the game meant that it would have been over in 2-3 hours. The only real speed bump was the turn sequence. You start with making reactions to your opponents phase, such as firing weapons or trying to change formations. Then you resolve any combats, which means that in your turn you only resolve combats that your opponent initiated. After that you make your moves, including your charges (which will then be resolved in your opponents turn). This works out well, since it means that you get the chance to fire upon charging brigades or form last-minute squares, but it was confusing at first to remember exactly which player's turn it was! As expected from a Napoleonics game, much of it resolves around using formations properly. Infantry on a line can fire more, but has a lower density in a melée, and a column is very good for marching, but also very bad if someone is shooting or charging you. The second part is disruption. As you get fired upon or get repulsed when charging, your units gets more and more disrupted. Disrupted units can still fire just as well, but they get a lot easier to rout in a melee. I was impressed with what this meant for cavalry, as they get disrupted even when winning a melee. This means that cavalry are, correctly, very strong against infantry that are not prepared for a charge. But even when running down panicked infantrymen, their order deteriorates until they reach a point where they are easily chased away with a good volley. This happened a lot in the period, with reckless cavalry pursuits leading to the victorious units themselves becoming worthless as strategic entities on the battlefield. All this means that the use of cavalry means a lot more headscratching than other games I've played. As a whole, everything just 'clicks': the balance and unique roles of cavalry, infantry and artillery, the formations, and the army organization. Even if I find other periods more interesting historically or aesthetically, I can now say that I have more of an understanding of why Napoleonics is such a juggernaut in historical gaming. Army scale wargames simply have an easier time to represent warfare that works like Napoleonic warfare, and it is a kind of warfare that is very interesting on an army scale level.
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# ? Jun 26, 2012 19:04 |
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Well that's a pretty glowing review really. I'll have to give it a go.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 04:43 |
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Arquinsiel posted:Hail Caesar, Black Powder and Force on Force are the default suggestions here. Danke. Those can be 15mm ya?
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 07:23 |
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Herr Tog posted:Danke. Those can be 15mm ya? They can all be pretty much whatever scale you want.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 09:23 |
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Force on Force starts getting awkward below 10mil and you start having to invent rules for moving fireteams as one and keeping notes on who is alive and who is dead but other than that they are all scale-less.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 13:59 |
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So if I use 1/72 scale figures for force on force, I can just go ahead and use the regular ranges in the book for things, or do I need to adjust the scale?
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 14:51 |
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Not sure what the new edition says, but in the first edition they suggested doubling the ranges for 20mm-28mm to make it look better. The rules still work fine, though. I'd say 20mm is borderline, because the basic ranges are meant to look right with 15mm figures, and a lot of those are more like 18mm.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 15:03 |
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I play it with 1/72, and the book even says 1/72 (or 20mm) is a perfect scale for the game.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 15:12 |
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Excellent. I went with 1/72nd because access to plastic soldiers and vehicles was cheap as chips, thus making it a cheap game to run. Good to hear I made the right decision.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 16:24 |
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You made the exact right decision. It can be run and run well for an investment of no more than 10 euro after buying the rulebook. 20mil is CHEAP.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 23:17 |
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Ok here is a pic of the plastic miniatures I mentioned in my previous post: Any idea what brand they might be and where I can get more like them for (relatively) cheap?
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# ? Jun 29, 2012 16:43 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 18:54 |
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Perry miniatures perhaps? The plastic ones they sell in large unit boxes?
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# ? Jun 29, 2012 17:22 |