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 Ugh, I had postponed peeking behind the sprocket cover a bit too much, dreading what I'd find. Is that a hook in your sprocket or are you just yanking my chain? Anyway, it's 26.000 km old, which is pretty good, but do you think I can make the 6-7000 km eurotrip without swapping it? Don't have much free time between now and departure. Also found a leak in the clutch pushrod. Not too bad, think I have the seal as well. Explains some of my oil consumption which I was positive wasn't a leak. So my engine isn't consuming it all at least!
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Jun 10, 2012 15:42
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| # ? May 16, 2024 20:52 |
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Swapping out the front sprocket is a 10 minute job if you have the socket and breaker bar already. Stand on the rear brake and twist that bitch off after taking out the cotter or bendy security pin/pad thing. They're cheap too, at least in the states you can get a front sprocket for like $10. So while you have the cover off, you're halfway there! Just do the thing.
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Jun 10, 2012 16:05
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You are right. I am just being cheap. Even James May (yes the real one!) said so:
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Jun 10, 2012 16:09
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I have the biggest man crush on James may. Steps: 1) Get new sprocket 2) Socket + breaker bar 3) Use tools (In my experience, a series of progressively larger flat head screw drivers) to bend the tab back flat covering one side of your sprocket bolt 4) Engine in Netural! 5) Have a buddy/slave, or contort yourself in such a way you can stand on the rear brake, full application and apply torque to the bolt till it comes loose. 6) Loosen rear axle and move it forward in the adjustment range to get some slack in your chain, this should allow you to pull off the chain and sprocket. Depending on how much room is in there, you may be able to unloop the chain then pull the sprocket vs just pulling them out together. 7) Replace -> Tighten it down a bit -> Fix axle slack so chain is at normal play -> Stand on rear brake -> tighten to factory settings -> Bend tab back up to secure sprocket bolt in place 8) Drink last beer in 6 pack
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Jun 10, 2012 16:14
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Thanks. I have done it before with help, might have to do it alone this time. Local shops charge by weight in platinum for kits and probably won't have them in stock, might have to order online.
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Jun 10, 2012 16:20
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Ola posted:You are right. I am just being cheap. Even James May (yes the real one!) said so: Whaaat???  Why did you think to twitter May about it? Why does he know the answer? Why is this happening??
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Jun 10, 2012 16:23
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I was dicking around on twitter after posting here, noticed James May was tweeting some nonesense and had a go. It's fun to get a reply from someone famous. edit: price of both sprockets shipped from the UK is cheaper than just the rear sprocket from a Norwegian WEBSHOP (not brick and mortar).
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Jun 10, 2012 16:27
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I just changed the sprockets on mine and the standing on the back brake trick didnt work. It needed so much force to start the nut moving that I ended up putting a thick bit of wood through the wheel and resting it on the swingarm to have leverage. Worked well, then I put it on the other side of the swingarm to torque it back up again.
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Jun 10, 2012 17:23
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KARMA! posted:Whaaat???
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Jun 10, 2012 19:09
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Ola posted:You are right. I am just being cheap. Even James May (yes the real one!) said so: Hey, your last name's Marvin. What an odd coinci...hmmmm.
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Jun 10, 2012 19:24
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Hush, man! Don't let them on to it. It's my middle name And I've said it before
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Jun 10, 2012 19:42
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Ola posted:I was dicking around on twitter after posting here, noticed James May was tweeting some nonesense and had a go. It's fun to get a reply from someone famous. We should trust him because he majored in music! 
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Jun 10, 2012 20:07
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Z3n posted:We should trust him because he majored in music! I WANNA SPROCK
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Jun 10, 2012 20:12
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Ola posted:I WANNA SPROCK  
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Jun 10, 2012 22:37
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When my rear brake wasn't enough and wedging a piece of wood was awkward due the shape of my SSSA, what worked for me was tying a spoke to the swingarm with a tie-down. I was removing an over-torqued rear wheel nut not a sprocket, but I guess it should work the same.
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Jun 11, 2012 07:33
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I just installed a K & N air filter on my GS500. I can't tell if it's my imagination, but my engine seems to be running hotter than before. It came with an extra rubber piece and no explanation: http://i.imgur.com/80mPO.jpg
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Jun 11, 2012 23:02
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epswing posted:I just installed a K & N air filter on my GS500. I can't tell if it's my imagination, but my engine seems to be running hotter than before. You might be right about that. A leaner mixture runs hotter, all else equal. You've put in a part that increases the airflow, and having made no adjustments to the fuel (I assume), you're probably running a little leaner. Does your GS have a slipon muffler? clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jun 11, 2012 |
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Jun 11, 2012 23:04
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clutchpuck posted:Does your GS have a slipon muffler? Nope, stock exhaust. epswing fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Jun 12, 2012 |
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Jun 11, 2012 23:15
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So when my bike is cold, I sometimes here what sounds like something in my engine whipping around. I'm guessing it's the cam chain or something similar but I could be wrong. It only happens when it isn't warmed up. Is it something I should be worried about or is this normal? Bike is a Bandit.
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Jun 12, 2012 18:09
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Describe "whipping around". If your Bandit is air cooled, the valves are supposed to clatter when set to the correct clearance. If it goes away completely when it's warmed up, your clearances may be a tad on the tight side.
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Jun 12, 2012 19:46
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It's not really a sewing machine sound. It sounds like something whipping around randomly in my crank case. It goes away when I give it a bit of gas but when it's still cold and I bring in the clutch it makes the whipping sound again. The taptaptaptap from the valves is there, but I can really only describe it as above. I wish I could describe it better. 
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Jun 12, 2012 20:02
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You could use an audio recording device. Edit: To be more helpful, you could use a screwdriver as a primitive stethoscope. Apply it to various parts of the engine and try to identify the physical location where the sound is loudest.
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Jun 12, 2012 20:06
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Clutch basket grumble.
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Jun 12, 2012 20:37
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Thanks for the advice, MotoMind. I use that for my cars, actually! On the subject of stethoscopes, silicon vacuum tubing works great for diagnosing vacuum leaks as well. Z3n's heard it too I'm guessing so it's definitely that though. Thanks, guys! 
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Jun 12, 2012 20:43
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2003 SV650. My shifter has gotten into the annoying habit of sticking on upshifts sometimes. I never notice this until Im trying to shift up the next time, at which point I can't, and have to let out the clutch to try again. Remove shifter and lube axle with grease, I guess? At least I *hope* it's the shifter sticking, or else something inside the gearbox is giving me trouble and I wouldn't like that.
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Jun 12, 2012 22:07
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Define "sticking". Is it sticking in the "upshift" position and not springing back? Or do you try and upshift and nothing happens?
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Jun 12, 2012 23:10
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I *think* its sticking in the upshift position, and therefor nothing happens when I try to shift. But since I'd rather not look down at my shifter while riding, Im not sure. It feels like as if I have sixth gear engaged already (I am unable to move the shifter upwards with my foot, it feels solid). And then if I release the clutch and try again, it works. I havent tried upshifting several times when it happens to get it to spring down or something, thats why Im not 100% sure its actually sticking and not the gearbox or shifter linkage thats borked.
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Jun 13, 2012 01:07
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Xovaan posted:Thanks for the advice, MotoMind. I use that for my cars, actually! On the subject of stethoscopes, silicon vacuum tubing works great for diagnosing vacuum leaks as well. If Suzuki's ever made an engine that runs quietly I want it found and shot immediately.
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Jun 13, 2012 02:28
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Went to clean the chain today and noticed this metallic dusting covering the chain/sprocket and the sprocket cover. Did I gently caress up my chain? The back is rusted despite having been lubed fairly regularly. Chain is just starting to kink up, and I'm at about the end of adjustments. I need chain recommendations for an '89 GS500 (520, 110 link o-ring). Not sure what I should be looking for in terms of price/performance. 
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Jun 13, 2012 03:23
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On the topic of chains, I got one for my ZZR-250 about 2 months ago (possibly a bit more) and the drat thing still doesn't need to be tightened or adjusted in any way at all - is this normal? It was a $160 X-ring chain that I keep well oiled but it just seems to me that I should have had to adjust it by now. :/ e: SeeYouEnTee posted:Went to clean the chain today and noticed this metallic dusting covering the chain/sprocket and the sprocket cover. Did I gently caress up my chain? The back is rusted despite having been lubed fairly regularly. Chain is just starting to kink up, and I'm at about the end of adjustments. When I got my chain for my bike I just went into the bike shop and asked what a good chain for my bike would be and they handed me one. I don't know what the bike shops are like where you are but that seemed to work pretty well for me and it's apparently a superhuman chain they gave me, so woot. I'd just go in and ask a shop myself (and I plan on doing the same when I get one for the Yamaha I've got). Shimrod fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Jun 13, 2012 |
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Jun 13, 2012 08:22
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SeeYouEnTee posted:I need chain recommendations for an '89 GS500 (520, 110 link o-ring). DID 520VX2, it'll last you at least 25,000km with the bare minimum of oiling once a month. Shimrod posted:On the topic of chains, I got one for my ZZR-250 about 2 months ago (possibly a bit more) and the drat thing still doesn't need to be tightened or adjusted in any way at all - is this normal? It was a $160 X-ring chain that I keep well oiled but it just seems to me that I should have had to adjust it by now. :/ Sounds like a DID chain at that price point. I didn't have to adjust the chain on my Bandit bike for almost 6 months. Good stuff.
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Jun 13, 2012 08:30
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In my experience a new chain needs to be tightened once after installation. When it needs to be tightened again that's a sign that the chain is on it's way out.
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Jun 13, 2012 13:29
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On bikes that make a ton of torque like Busas and ZX14s they will stretch a bit if you're heavy on the throttle.
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Jun 13, 2012 14:21
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Is anyone here a MSF RiderCoach? I'm going to be interviewing for a position in PA and would like some pointers if possible!
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Jun 13, 2012 17:09
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Well finally bought boots and pants for the safety and peace of mind of ATGATT. Just moved and my bike is no longer covered. First thunderstorm, I go out the next morning and it's dead. The battery is still charged, but the dash doesn't even come on. Did it maybe blow a fuse? Anyone have any other ideas for an '81 Seca? I really want it to keep running for a couple more years before I can afford to buy something actually decent!
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Jun 13, 2012 17:59
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Only way to tell if it blew a fuse is to visually inspect them. Get to lookin'! If it's saturated, let it dry out and try again.
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Jun 13, 2012 18:02
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:I appreciate the help. I've "rebuilt" a couple bikes in the past, but those were already pretty well maintained and just needed disassemble/clean/tune. This bike was a basket case barn-find with a crushed front-end when I started. It's 99% there. A little idle tuning, and fixing this cold-running behavior will have it ready to go. Course, now it looks like the frame is in fact bent. Can't see the crookedness when it's still, but moving in a straight line requires that the top triple be slightly but visibly crooked to the right. Forks and triples are definitely straight. Ah well, gives the bike some character. :P
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Jun 13, 2012 20:55
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Course, now it looks like the frame is in fact bent. Can't see the crookedness when it's still, but moving in a straight line requires that the top triple be slightly but visibly crooked to the right. Forks and triples are definitely straight. Ah well, gives the bike some character. :P Have you tried loosening the bolts on the triple clamps and straightening out the forks in the clamps? The fix could be as simple as that.
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Jun 13, 2012 20:57
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clutchpuck posted:Have you tried loosening the bolts on the triple clamps and straightening out the forks in the clamps? The fix could be as simple as that.
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Jun 13, 2012 21:08
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| # ? May 16, 2024 20:52 |
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Going to look at a 2010 Suzuki GSX 600 F next week for my first bike. It has about 7000 miles on the clock. One previous owner and the bike is stock. Comes with three "suitcases" or what you call them.. New tires and been serviced at dealers..  Any advice in what to look for in a bike like this?
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Jun 14, 2012 00:37
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