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We walked the course and put down a 30 minutes of practice in the morning, and it was still hard to navigate the ribbon. They had piles of cones that could easily clarify apexes, but..dirt bike guys don't get road racing. Like having a check point on the front straight  But yea, we're grateful for the opportunity to ride! I'm itching for more... Our local super track is battling the courts.
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Jun 9, 2012 03:44
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Dear Suzuki, As the only DRZ owner on earth who still has the stock tail light on the bike after 6 years and 5300 miles, I can tell you that the MTBF on the tail light is 6 years or 5300 miles. Sincerely, Olde Weird Tip So I went for a ride today, and as I said, as the only person on earth who still has the stock tail light on their DRZ after 6 years, mine finally bit the dust today. The stock light is pretty bouncy, as the whole thing is rubber mounted, presumably to keep it from cracking and to keep the bulbs from constantly burning out. I think this flexibility was its downfall though. I must have had the perfect storm of the light bouncing downwards as the wheel was coming up, and the whole assembly got sucked into the tire, and snapped off.  I then proceeded to spend way too much time removing all the wiring and taking the whole thing apart so I could bring it with me on my ride. The blinkers and plate fit in my coat pockets, but unsurprisingly, the enormous tail light/license plate holder/reflector dongle didnt really fit anywhere. So I did what I could and strapped it to my handlebars with its own cord. I was going on this ride no matter what.  This was not a good long-term solution, as it got in the way of the brake line. I rode with it like that for a few miles until I came upon a gas station with some zip ties, bought said zipties and made a new mount for the tail light.   Zip-tied to the rear peg and boot guard. Ghetto, but it wasnt flopping around and smashing into things, which was all I cared about. I then just used hand signals for the rest of the ride. Good enough. I did a little exploring  And even ran into another DRZ, Obviously under 6 years old and 5300 miles, as you can see from the tail light. The owner was nowhere to be seen.  I then stopped for gas, and noticed my rear tire. Let me preface this by saying that my front and rear tires are from 2005 and 2006, respectively. They are, as far as I can tell, the OEM tires, and came with the bike. The PO of my DRZ thankfully seemed to treat it well, and didnt do much to it, just oil changes. He was, from everything I can see, quite easy on the throttle. How else would you get the crap OEM tires to go 5300 miles? I am a little more.......judicious with the throttle, and those old, dry tires quickly gave up the ghost.  Down to the cords, and an hour left to go to get home. I was never more careful on the throttle as I was on the way home today. I made it though. Now time to order some new tires, and a DRC Edge....
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Jun 10, 2012 21:30
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I'm going to be replacing the previous owners hackjob led and ziptie plate mount with a DRC soon, might spurge and get this.
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Jun 10, 2012 21:52
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Hey, What do you know, my DRZ tail light broke last week or whatever. I would highly recommend the low profile tail light you recommended to me. Alternately, depending what broke on your bike, I might have the parts you need from my old tail light. They'd be yours if you want them. The only downside so far on the edge drc tail light is that the replacement blinker nut doesn't fit over the original connectors so you have to make yet another connector from the pieces they give you.
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Jun 10, 2012 22:09
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Dear Suzuki, "A-bloo bloo bloo, Safety Dance used a chunk of pipe to repair his clutch lever!" -Olde Wierd Tip
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Jun 11, 2012 00:57
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Safety Dance posted:"A-bloo bloo bloo, Safety Dance used a chunk of pipe to repair his clutch lever!" I didn't actually hook the light back up while it was zip tied to the rear peg. It was just there for storage
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Jun 11, 2012 01:02
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Resource posted:Hey, Thanks, but im probably just going with the DRC
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Jun 11, 2012 04:16
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So, not content with the really great ride we'd just had, my friend decided he wanted to "learn how to wheelie" and promptly looped my bike. I'm still not quite sure how he managed to do that, since he was trying power wheelies in first, and we were on completely flat ground. The bike actually fared a great deal better than he did, with a smashed peg, some scraped plastics, and a bar end slider ground most of the way down - around $100 worth of stuff. I was looking at these replacement sliders, but I'm a little concerned why they specifically mention being for hand guards: http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/11/11/index.shtml They look pretty much identical to the ones I have on there now (which are unmarked, or I'd just be getting another set). Does anyone know if these would work? Oh, and after we got home, he ended up going to the ER to get a ultrasound taken of his balls, as they had turned purple and swelled up to the size of a grapefruit. Yes, there are photos. DRZ: 1, nuts: 0
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Jun 12, 2012 01:10
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Zool had good advice: ebay a bag of used skateboard wheels: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skateboard-Wheels-2-Sets-/261040897560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc73ffe18#ht_500wt_1129 I bought 2' of delrin round stock and cut/drilled it, but that was excessive. The skateboard wheel route is way easier: http://www.professionalplastics.com/DELRINSHEET-ROD Sucks about your friend's balls, yikes!
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Jun 12, 2012 02:18
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toolshed posted:
A buddy of mine lost a nut riding. Someone pulled out in front of him on a blind corner, he t-boned the car and his nuts dented the gas tank. Over an inch of deflection. With all the pain meds the hospital put him on for other poo poo, he didn't feel his balls swelling. It wasn't until four hours later and someone noticed his basketball shorts had a giant lump in them that he went back to the hospital. One bruised testicle, one literally busted nut.
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Jun 12, 2012 02:31
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iwentdoodie posted:A buddy of mine lost a nut riding. Someone pulled out in front of him on a blind corner, he t-boned the car and his nuts dented the gas tank. Over an inch of deflection. This is now my new greatest motorcycling concern.
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Jun 12, 2012 03:06
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Resource posted:This is now my new greatest motorcycling concern. I had a buddy who crashed his SV, and his nuts hit the tank so hard that he cracked a testicle. Its a very real thing and scares the poo poo out of me.
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Jun 12, 2012 03:36
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There are 1. Bike hits object. 2. Balls hit tank. 3. Rider hits obstacle/ground. 4. Rider's organs impact the rider internally. I now understand why most people black out after an accident, ball pain ain't no joke.
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Jun 12, 2012 04:25
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I had a buddy who crashed his SV, and his nuts hit the tank so hard that he cracked a testicle. Supermoto superiority! On most you'll just rack your poo poo into the triples, that's way better! Stand up on the pegs before you crash and you'll just break your legs!
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Jun 12, 2012 05:12
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That's why you Layer Dan because I'd rather lose skin than testicles
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Jun 12, 2012 06:20
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Resource posted:This is now my new greatest motorcycling concern. I really worried about this too. Why do guys wear assless chaps to ride? It seems exactly backwards! I looked around real hard but even calling up Revzilla asking about their armored leather codpieces didn't turn up any results. Finally I stopped by this specialty store that my girlfriend's been trying to get me to go to that has all sorts of hard-to-find leather items and strange power tools; sure enough, they had one, but it had metal spikes all over it and now I'm worried it's going to scratch the gently caress out of my tank. I asked the shop and they gave me this leather guard thing for it but it must not be for a Triumph, I can't figure out how to fasten the straps and buckles under the tank and it's got this big red ball that sticks up on top. Anyone have any experience with these things or should I just stack two TechSpec tank protectors and call it a day?
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Jun 12, 2012 12:52
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The metal spikes are there to reduce friction in the case of sliding down the road. The problem is that unless you have a kevlar liner your balls may get burned by studs as they heat up quite a lot while abrading. The ball is to catch you if you start to slide up and over the tank. The specialist store you went to may have something like this, usually intended to keep passengers in place, they can also be used by the rider to ensure proper riding position at all times. The model shown here will result in a more 'upright' riding position but I'm sure you could adjust it to other positions.
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Jun 12, 2012 15:06
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I'm past overdue for a new rear (cords just showed up last weekend  ).Before I buy, do any of the Bay Area people in this thread know of a better deal than motorcycle-superstore's $286 for ContiForces, and $44/wheel for a MotoTireGuy install? I might be able to borrow a friend's car for the day, which brings it to $22/wheel, but I wonder if there's a local place where I could buy and get free install. Maybe I'm dreaming...
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Jun 12, 2012 21:39
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If you're not a jerk I'll show you how to DIY it.
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Jun 12, 2012 23:11
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toolshed posted:I'm past overdue for a new rear (cords just showed up last weekend These look like the two places to go to for tires: https://www.denniskirk.com/continental/rear-contiforce-sm-super-motard-150-60hr-17-blackwall-tire.p542524.prd/542524.sku http://www.americanmototire.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1326
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Jun 12, 2012 23:42
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Z3n posted:If you're not a jerk I'll show you how to DIY it. ATTN TOOLSHED: Z3n is the epitome of "goon," but once you get past his constant need to drink all beverages out of a taco bell cup from 2003 he is actually a p rad dude 
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Jun 13, 2012 01:39
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I only accept payment in DMD.
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Jun 13, 2012 02:03
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Posted about this in the What did you do to your ride today? thread but it's probably of use/interest to more people in here. I replaced the lovely auto cam chain tensioner on the 690 with a manual one from Rally Raid Installation was pretty easy, with the only problem being the lack of clearance between the tensioner and the frame. The manual which came with the CCT calls for pulling the valve and stator covers then finding TDC, which frankly it seems unnecessary. I pulled the valve cover anyway because I wanted to check clearances and did my usual trick of rolling the bike forward in a high gear to get the engine to TDC. In fitting I did find, not surprisingly, that after 17,000mi my cam chain is on the loose side. I wonder if better chain tension will make the next one last longer. I adjusted it to finger-tight before starting her up, which gave me a bit of chain slap, then tightened it up just until the slapping stopped and locked the nut off. I didn't have any thread-lock but I made it pretty tight. I'll keep an eye on it and if it manages to shake it off I'll just re-tighten it with some 243. Overall I'm pleased with the part. It's nothing special function wise, and it's not cheap, but it's nicely made and has certainly done the job. Quiet(er) at idle (still the usual valve train clatter, obviously), no more magic collapsing tensioner making the bike sound like it ingested a bag of spanners, no more slap under hard acceleration.
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Jun 13, 2012 14:16
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Z3n posted:If you're not a jerk I'll show you how to DIY it. That sounds interesting, because I watched Robbie do them on my old Monster, and I'm having a hard time imagining how one would cobble together something that would do the job of that tire changer machine. Also, I'm only sort of a jerk. Gnaghi posted:These look like the two places to go to for tires: Nice, thanks!
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Jun 13, 2012 21:33
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You have plat? Drop me a PM or hit me up on AIM.
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Jun 13, 2012 21:34
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http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/motorbikes/3489250 this is really tempting for that price, what obvious pitfalls am i missing? do these bikes explode at 20k miles or what
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Jun 13, 2012 23:53
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echomadman posted:http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/motorbikes/3489250 Those old KTMs usually explode before 20K actually. The LC4's are generally reliable, but if you had to pick one to not trust it would be the early ones.
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Jun 14, 2012 02:21
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ReelBigLizard posted:Posted about this in the What did you do to your ride today? thread but it's probably of use/interest to more people in here. Is the stock one pure hydraulic? Changing it over to a manual is the first thing I would do to any ktm. I'd keep an eye on your timing marks to see if they start being hard to line up at tdc. Cam chains and tensioners have not been kind to me the past couple bikes so I'm a little bitter at them 
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Jun 14, 2012 04:00
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echomadman posted:http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/motorbikes/3489250 If I remember my LC4 'lore correctly, "thou shalt not buy a Black engined 640 lest the velocross posted:Is the stock one pure hydraulic? Changing it over to a manual is the first thing I would do to any ktm. I'd keep an eye on your timing marks to see if they start being hard to line up at tdc. The CCT is probably the biggest problem I've really had with the SMC, mine was never bad for stalling like some. The stock tensioner is hydraulic with some kind of mechanical latch inside. The latch is really bad for skipping and collapsing, especially when the oil is worn. My first tensioner failed dramatically when the bike was still in warranty, luckily the chain was tight enough that it didn't skip the sprocket. The replacement was better, and lasted about 3 years without anything more than the occasional partial collapse when I didn't let the bike get up to temp before turning it off. Will the replacement cam chain be a never ending one? I don't think I've seen a master link on the one that's in there, which means I'm going to have to pull the rotor/flywheel. Time to invest in air tools I guess. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Jun 14, 2012 |
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Jun 14, 2012 10:00
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The local riders forum (pnwriders.com) threw some cones down in a parking lot and held a "skills refresher" day. On the 690 those challenging MSF-like cones made a great super moto course  I kept my foot up initially, expecting an MSF mindset/instruction, but couldn't resist the urge to race. I power-slid the rear out looking for the limits, but eventually found my groove. It was surreal racing around in an MSF style environment. The spot is next to my job, too. Hopefully I can get a regular thing going..
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Jun 18, 2012 02:59
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toolshed posted:Oh, and after we got home, he ended up going to the ER to get a ultrasound taken of his balls, as they had turned purple and swelled up to the size of a grapefruit. Yes, there are photos. Hopefully he got a decent Dr. My friend lost one of his to a 4-wheeler just like that when the local hospital kept just giving him painkillers and sending him home... Went for a second opinion and found out it was gangrenous and he was lucky he wasn't losing it all.
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Jun 18, 2012 03:45
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In Husquevarna news, I no longer have a length of pipe as a clutch lever! Out with the old:  In with the new:  Of course, however, because it's a Husky and no one sells Husky parts in the US, it's a clutch lever designed for KTM dirt bikes which means I had to remove a Teflon bushing from my clutch cable end AND remove about 1/16" of material from the lever itself. In other news, both of my rear indicators are held together by zip ties -- for one of which I had to fabricate an elaborate aluminum bracket.
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Jun 20, 2012 00:30
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ASV carries levers for Huskys, I just ordered em yesterday.
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Jun 20, 2012 00:34
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Gnaghi posted:ASV carries levers for Huskys, I just ordered em yesterday. You mean like the one I had to send back because it was for a hydraulic clutch? ASV is dead to me.
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Jun 20, 2012 00:42
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Gullous posted:The local riders forum (pnwriders.com) threw some cones down in a parking lot and held a "skills refresher" day. On the 690 those challenging MSF-like cones made a great super moto course People have a huge misconception about riding with cones and gymkhana. It may not be fast, but the goal is to go with a quickness. It is racing, and it is not easy. I can say I was a fair match for a famous AFM racer in local competition. ADVrider has a great thread going: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788591 Figure 8 GP: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPNxgRULJiA
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Jun 20, 2012 00:47
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That looks insanely fun, yet so simple. Two pieces of debris and I have a course! Maybe after work tomorrow I'll go back...
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Jun 20, 2012 03:36
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I've been meaning to find out about gymkhanas in my area, if they are out there for auto-x prices I could do one every weekend. Setting up an impromptu one in a lot probably wouldn't last long before cops show up, but there's at least one drifters and stunters can use on sunday because they worked out an agreement with the business. Having my own version of this would be pretty amazing. Hilarious that layer dan smilie in that thread.  Safety Dance posted:You mean like the one I had to send back because it was for a hydraulic clutch? Ah yeah there is only one part number for all Husqvarnas. The solution is to get a WRX, there are so many parts you've never heard of or needed available that there are a fair number of owners $4-6k into a $4-6k bike.
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Jun 20, 2012 10:06
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Gnaghi posted:Hilarious that layer dan smilie in that thread. Haha someone buy this and make it :mootmoot:
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Jun 20, 2012 14:15
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What are the major differences between a 2008 KTM 690 SMC and a 2007 SMR? Not at all familiar with the SMR. From what I gather it is a nicer version of the SM maybe? I've been on the hunt for a 690 and those two options popped up at the same time. Neither are really that close and they're located in the opposite direction to each other, so comparing them in person is a problem. The SMC is listed at a much higher price, ~$2700 more. It's loaded down with mods, but I know mods are generally not valued very highly. Anyways, guess I'll go back to staring at the photos while I wait for responses from my emails.
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Jun 21, 2012 22:38
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| # ? May 13, 2024 18:25 |
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QnoisX posted:What are the major differences between a 2008 KTM 690 SMC and a 2007 SMR? Not at all familiar with the SMR. From what I gather it is a nicer version of the SM maybe? I've been on the hunt for a 690 and those two options popped up at the same time. Neither are really that close and they're located in the opposite direction to each other, so comparing them in person is a problem. The SMC is listed at a much higher price, ~$2700 more. It's loaded down with mods, but I know mods are generally not valued very highly. The smc is a more balls to the wall supermoto whareas the SMR is slightly tamed towards street riding. The SMR has less suspension travel (8 inches vs 10 on the SMC) but as an R its got the full 690 engine rather than the 654. It'll weigh about 10kgs more but thats mostly the exhaust (apparently the SC Project exhaust is 9kgs lighter). The SMR should also have some fancy wheels (marchesini) from the duke which should be lighter but not so good off road.
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Jun 22, 2012 00:19
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