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Now I've got the master cylinder off and about to take it apart. loving circlip
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Jun 15, 2012 22:14
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the walkin dude posted:Now I've got the master cylinder off and about to take it apart. loving circlip Harbor Freight has snap ring pliers for like 5 dollars. Get an internal and external one and call it a day.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:15
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the walkin dude posted:Now I've got the master cylinder off and about to take it apart. loving circlip ITT a poster is constantly using the wrong tools and gets frustrated by that fact. Half of wrenching on anything is making sure you have the proper tools before you start.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:16
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I did buy a snap ring plier from Advanced Auto Zone. It came like this, un-assembled - there's a little spring, some bolt mechanism, and the head. I'm not sure how to put the tool together, as there's no instruction with the package. I just popped on the plier head over the two nubs on the tool and while it's loose, tried to push together the holes of the circlip. Kinda tough to get the pointy ends in the holes... am I doing it right? So far I've had the dust boot/seal ripped off. What sort of attacking strategy should I be doing with this plier?  Edit: Nvm, I got the circlip out with no thanks to that new tool. I used one of my girlfriends' bead-work tools, up there with pink handles. Score. the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 22:33
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Collateral Damage posted:Yup, but a shoddy allen key won't destroy the bolt. I've seen plenty of stripped out allen bolts too. Use the right tools, decent tools, and you don't have any issues.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:44
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Kind of hard to explain over the internet, but basically if you connect the head to the bottom set of studs you get an internal plier (which works like normal pliers), and if you use the top set of studs you get an external one (which spreads apart when you squeeze the handle). The spring and pivot hold it all together. I personally have found that those reversible pliers are more trouble than they're worth, especially when you can get a pair of single-function pliers for about the same price.  As for how to use it, go SLOWLY and wear eye protection. Put the jaws into the rings, and make sure that you squeeze both sides evenly and carefully. Put some downward pressure on the whole thing to keep it in the holes. And wear eye protection, seriously. Snap rings have a tendency to rocket out at unbelievable speeds.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:48
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Z3n posted:I've seen plenty of stripped out allen bolts too. Use the right tools, decent tools, and you don't have any issues. Also, use them correctly. I've destroyed allen bolts from not inserting the bit completely before applying gorilla torque. I'm an idiot, but I am an experienced idiot.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:49
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This tool is essentially useless, I can't install the new circlip back in. Time to visit Harbor Freight...
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Jun 15, 2012 23:01
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the walkin dude posted:Now I've got the master cylinder off and about to take it apart. loving circlip I ran into this problem once deep inside an engine (somewhere around a kickstart idler gear) and filed notches in the outer edges of my fingernail scissors to catch the circlip eyelets. Worked nicely, still cut my nails with 'em.
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Jun 15, 2012 23:01
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Yeah it is HPI clear, that would have been a red flag even to me Yes, it should work fine. If it's a stubby can and/or has a huge bore, it's going to still be louder than stock, but as long as you have an e-mark on it, it should pass the mot with a baffle in.
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Jun 15, 2012 23:30
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This is pretty much guaranteed to work right? http://hamilton.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=388551813 Are these even wise to buy used?
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Jun 15, 2012 23:51
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Near the airport in Leeds. Ah, I'm in NE USA, hopefully you can find someone a bit closer :\
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Jun 16, 2012 00:44
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Now I've got the MC clean/rebuild all done! The piston springs back firmly and quickly, unlike what it was like before. Thanks, all, for contributing to the non-death of my GF on that SV. 
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Jun 16, 2012 01:02
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n8r posted:ITT a poster is constantly using the wrong tools and gets frustrated by that fact. Half of wrenching on anything is making sure you have the proper tools before you start. I agree 100%. From the car work that I've done, I've learned first hand that the majority of the "pain" or "work" in doing a repair or maintenance project is having the wrong tools. Recently I invested in some loving breaker bars and they have already paid for themselves in time and less skinned knuckles. I also picked up an aluminum floor jack which is amazing.
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Jun 16, 2012 01:54
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Sagebrush posted:6-points work better. Those suck. This is the kind you want, but the problem is you can't just buy one of them, you need a bunch to account for different sizes/angles:
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Jun 16, 2012 03:40
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My problem is I get into some task, realize I don't have the right tool, and then spend the next hour trying to jerry rig something. I've gotten somewhat better about being willing to just drive to the hardware store or wherever and buying what I need. It ends up being a hell of a lot less frustrating.
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Jun 16, 2012 06:26
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bladesamurai posted:Ah, I'm in NE USA, hopefully you can find someone a bit closer :\ Hah that would be a bit of a trek! Thanks for the offer anyway man
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Jun 16, 2012 09:32
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Im in the process of grafting a stereo bluetooth headset onto my helmet, Ive already done a mono one on an old helmet which was fine if a bit quiet. Mounting the earphones/sounders and electronics is not a problem and Im replacing the battery with a higher capacity one for longer runtime. What Im stuck on is how to control it. The mono version I did previously just had one button and I mounted half of the housing with the pcb + button inside the chin guard and it was usable with gloves on etc. This stereo version has 5 buttons and they are all within a 1*0.75 inch area of the pcb - no way Im going to be able to operate them with gloves on. Im going to extend the wiring for 4 of the switches off the PCB and have buttons on the outside of the helmet. Problem is I cant figure out what to use for the buttons - Id like some that are quite low profile, can be stuck to a curved surface, can be used with gloves on and dont look too shoddy. Anyone come across anything like this, either separate parts or commercial units, or any ideas?
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Jun 16, 2012 11:14
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What does it need 5 buttons for? I've only used one wireless helmet headset, and it had no buttons meant to be used while riding. It had on/off and a channel switch. While riding it would disconnect to save power if you hadn't talked for about a minute, and to turn it on you just made a sharpish noise into the microphone.
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Jun 16, 2012 13:09
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grunthaas posted:Im in the process of grafting a stereo bluetooth headset onto my helmet, Ive already done a mono one on an old helmet which was fine if a bit quiet. Mounting the earphones/sounders and electronics is not a problem and Im replacing the battery with a higher capacity one for longer runtime. What Im stuck on is how to control it. Just buy a Sena SMH10 $165 http://www.amazon.com/Sena-Bluetooth-Helmet-Communication-System/dp/B0052YQMLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1339850513&sr=8-2&keywords=smh10 or SMH5 for $97 http://www.amazon.com/Sena-SMH5-01-...1&keywords=smh5
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Jun 16, 2012 13:43
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Buttons wise it has: power/play/pause/answer, next, prev, vol +, vol -. Id like to have access to all except prev on the outside of the helmet. Im not really planning to use them much while riding, its more for when you stop and need to talk to someone - I dont want to have to take kit off to stop music or similar. Why not buy one? Good point, but I like making things and Im pretty cheap so spending £150+ on a headset isnt going to happen. I mainly want this for a GPS audio hookup (Ive got a tomtom rider) and maybe the ability to listen to music, not bothered about making calls at all. grunthaas fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 14:38
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Ziploc posted:This is pretty much guaranteed to work right? They work. You can also build your own for $4. For balancing carburetor blocks, it's essential to learn how to do a prober bench-synchronizing though. Cigarette paper is your friend. Vacuum-meters are just there to confirm that you did your bench-synchronizing right, that you have no vacuum leaks and your internal carburetor channels aren't filled with gunk. With clean carburetors, prober bench-synchronizing, tight intake boots, and an engine without compression/leak-down problems, I've never had to adjust anything according to a Vacuum-meter. The Vacuum-meter is merely a test to tell you whether you're right or wrong. Never just slap on a carburetor block, and assume that you can just adjust balance according to your Vacuum-meter readings. You risk to adjust for serious unrelated malfunctions. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 17:11
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So what does a proper bench sync entail?
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Jun 16, 2012 17:32
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Frankie! posted:So what does a proper bench sync entail? Depends on your type of carburetor, but generally it's all about ensuring that mechanically your carburetors throughout the block will open synchronized to allow the same amount of air through when you twist the throttle. On a typical vacuum operated Mikuni or Keihin carburetor rack, it's just adjusting the intake butterflies to open synchronized via adjustment of the throttle mechanism. Actually, intake butterfly adjustment is why I mention cigarette papers. Slam all butterflies to full closed position. Flip them up and place a Rizzla(tm) cigarette paper under each butterfly. Adjust till all papers barely slips out under their butterflies. Now you should be golden. Mount the rack and adjust idle on the cable. You might want to control your poo poo with a vacuum-meter at this point. If you read a non-equal vacuum on any carburetor, you've got trouble, but it's not related to your synchronization. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 18:26
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What's the CA groupthink on Victory motorcycles? I'm a fan of the cruiser-style and I am looking at the semi-near future. After a while I gotta move up from the little Rebel.
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Jun 16, 2012 18:28
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It is my understanding that they are ugly as all-get-out, but very rider comfort focused. I don't know how they are reliability-wise.
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Jun 16, 2012 18:35
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ifire posted:What's the CA groupthink on Victory motorcycles? I'm a fan of the cruiser-style and I am looking at the semi-near future. After a while I gotta move up from the little Rebel. The "next step up" from your Rebel would be a Honda Shadow, and I've generally heard good things about them.
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Jun 16, 2012 18:38
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Sagebrush posted:The "next step up" from your Rebel would be a Honda Shadow, and I've generally heard good things about them. I'm definitely considering the Shadow line, but I also want to have some other bikes to check out too. Victory's cruisers definitely seem to have the  look but without the Harley tax, but I'm keeping my options wide open since it will be a while before I can afford another bike.Edit: Their touring bikes look like space-bikes. I can't decide if it's awesome or not.
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Jun 16, 2012 18:44
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ifire posted:What's the CA groupthink on Victory motorcycles? I'm a fan of the cruiser-style and I am looking at the semi-near future. After a while I gotta move up from the little Rebel. From what I've heard they're fine, but living in Europe I've never actually seen one. I've got an US friend I consider pretty sane, o.k. relatively sane, that can't shut the gently caress up about his Hammer 8-Ball. I actually like the looks of it a lot, and he swears by scout honor (I doubt he's a scout, and marine honor is questionable) that overall quality seems decent. I've heard some noise about gearbox quality, but it might be just that, noise. I really don't know, it's a pretty new bike with not much more than a decade of production.
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Jun 16, 2012 19:00
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ifire posted:What's the CA groupthink on Victory motorcycles? I'm a fan of the cruiser-style and I am looking at the semi-near future. After a while I gotta move up from the little Rebel. I've never heard any real horror stories about them, they seem pretty solid overall. The actual made in america bike.
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Jun 16, 2012 19:17
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Never heard anything bad about Victory beyond the price and sparse dealer network, but those are obvious. Check out Star (Yamaha) if you haven't already, they're still cheap but they've got more character these days than Honda. E: And Triumph, no one thinks of them for cruisers but they have some interesting midsize options Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 20:05
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Sagebrush posted:The "next step up" from your Rebel would be a Honda Shadow, and I've generally heard good things about them. The next step up is whatever bike he buys next...
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Jun 16, 2012 20:22
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Crayvex posted:Just buy a Sena SMH10 $165 http://www.amazon.com/Sena-Bluetooth-Helmet-Communication-System/dp/B0052YQMLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1339850513&sr=8-2&keywords=smh10 Is the SMH10 the one that you can plug your headphones into instead of using the speaker pads? Z3n impregnated one in my helmet but I'm looking to upgrade to the earbud one for trips.
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Jun 16, 2012 21:04
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Xovaan posted:Is the SMH10 the one that you can plug your headphones into instead of using the speaker pads? Z3n impregnated one in my helmet but I'm looking to upgrade to the earbud one for trips. You just need to pick up on of these: http://www.amazon.com/Sena-SMH-A030...rds=sena+earbud
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Jun 16, 2012 21:06
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Can anyone recommend an iPhone-compatible *wired* helmet headset? I'm looking at one for $70 from a company called IMC, but that's kind of pricey for something with limited reviews. I just don't want the bulk of Bluetooth, or to bother charging a battery.
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Jun 16, 2012 22:37
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eddiewalker posted:Can anyone recommend an iPhone-compatible *wired* helmet headset? I'm looking at one for $70 from a company called IMC, but that's kind of pricey for something with limited reviews. I just don't want the bulk of Bluetooth, or to bother charging a battery. Wires of any sort suck. If you are going wired you might as well just pick up a nice pair of noise isolating headphones and throw your iPhone in your jacket. I experimented with at least six different pairs of ear buds, some with microphones, some without. I was unhappy with all of them. I got a bluetooth set and it is incredibly awesome with the iPhone 4s. Hit the button and tell Siri what music you want to hear. Have her tell you what time it is. If you have the phone mounted where you can see it and you can ask her where you are and a live map pops up. Mind you I wear ear plugs. I do a lot of highway riding.
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Jun 16, 2012 23:53
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Z3n posted:You just need to pick up on of these: But what about the battery / button part? 
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Jun 17, 2012 01:10
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Xovaan posted:But what about the battery / button part? Ahh you'll need to buy the single smh10 unit then. Grind more on diablo 3!
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Jun 17, 2012 01:19
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Crayvex posted:Wires of any sort suck. If you are going wired you might as well just pick up a nice pair of noise isolating headphones and throw your iPhone in your jacket. I've been using custom-molded IEMs, the hard acrylic shell kind, running to my . Great isolation and I can wear them for hours outside my helmet. With the helmet on, it's like having rocks hammered into my skull. My ears canals are way too small for normal isolating phones. In fact the doctor was shocked when she took my molds I'm imagining helmet-mounted speakers and a mic with a connection jack near my neck so I can run a short wire from there to the phone in my pocket, but not have anything in the way when I don't want to use it.
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Jun 17, 2012 01:47
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Crayvex posted:Wires of any sort suck. If you are going wired you might as well just pick up a nice pair of noise isolating headphones and throw your iPhone in your jacket. Echoing this. http://www.amazon.com/UClear-HBC100...torcycle+helmet This device has changed my commute for the better. Way better. Holy poo poo better.
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Jun 17, 2012 02:21
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