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I think this is the best worst idea I've seen in my search. (Don't worry, not considering it. You should, though!)
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Jun 14, 2012 19:17
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:10 |
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Noise Complaint posted:I snagged the E30 325i I posted earlier for $750. It has a bit of rocker panel rot but absolutely no other structural rot at all. The strut towers are spotless! Check the rear battery tray, as well.
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Jun 14, 2012 19:37
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E30 body, E36 motor, E46 transmission? That sounds like a basketcase just waiting to be opened... Seems like you could have a pretty awesome car for under what an actual E30 M3 costs though, even with all the cosmetic poo poo you'd have to fix.
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Jun 14, 2012 19:38
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Lightbulb Out posted:Check the rear battery tray, as well. It's solid. The floors are all good too, the interior is a mess and pretty gross though. That's fun and easy to fix though.
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Jun 14, 2012 20:07
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CornHolio posted:In replacing my E36 echoplex posted:I currently have an E36 Touring which I love love love, but it's done 250k and this job I'm on at the moment is punishing it a bit. I'll be done soon, and will have a bit of cash, so I'm looking at a newer Touring. Having gone from e36 (2x 325tds saloon) - e46 (320d touring) I'd say there isn't much to choose between them. I swapped from the older car mostly because I was tired of getting 36mpg from a diesel (the e46 averages 43.4mpg, 47-50 if you drive sensibly) and felt like not having an old £1000 car anymore. I don't regret it but I'm not sure I would make the same decision again - I've lost far more in depreciation than I've saved in fuel, and a 6 year old 100k car isn't much different from a 16 year old 140k one at the end of the day. This is a bit diesel biased but here is my assessment: Pro's: Nicer interior, more toys. 6 speed box. Economy Bit more refined too drive, engine wise. DSC. Con's: Higher price (less of an issue now though as e46 prices are dropping) E36 felt like a better built car. Perhaps its just my perception but it felt more solid. The 320d engine does have a bit of a time bomb thing going on with the swirl flaps (I've done 40k in it and still not got round to blanking them) Less meaty feeling engine, feels slower despite more power. DSC. I'd say unless you are looking for a newer (more economical but potentially more problematic) diesel the difference is negligible between the two. They are both older now so a lot of both models are shagged and have mega miles on them, and e46 prices have dropped quite a lot since I bought mine. stump fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jun 14, 2012 |
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Jun 14, 2012 20:52
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What should my S52 E36 M3 be idling at? It looks to be about 550 RPM which seems kinda low for me. When its hot out I get a flickering oil pressure light at idle. Hopefully this isn't something PITA like an oil pump. Anybody with a similar experience and (hopefully) fix?
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Jun 15, 2012 07:03
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juche mane posted:What should my S52 E36 M3 be idling at? It looks to be about 550 RPM which seems kinda low for me. When its hot out I get a flickering oil pressure light at idle. Hopefully this isn't something PITA like an oil pump. I would get the light on all the time in the winter once the 5-30 came up to temp, I just ignored it. Also, mine looks like it idles at 550 too. There is a way to get a digital read out of the tach from the temperature unit. When I do that it tells me the idle is at 700.
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Jun 15, 2012 08:52
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juche mane posted:What should my S52 E36 M3 be idling at? It looks to be about 550 RPM which seems kinda low for me. When its hot out I get a flickering oil pressure light at idle. Hopefully this isn't something PITA like an oil pump. For what its worth my m52 idles at 550 as well. I always found that odd, my m54 idles higher than that.
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Jun 15, 2012 10:20
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For turning into a track car, how much of a Bad Idea is it to get an E30 with 270k miles? Is that even worth taking in for a PPI? I'm hoping for something I can take to the track without a whole lot of maintenance hassle up front. It's priced under 3k and would probably go for less.
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Jun 15, 2012 13:04
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ColdPie posted:For turning into a track car, how much of a Bad Idea is it to get an E30 with 270k miles? Is that even worth taking in for a PPI? I'm hoping for something I can take to the track without a whole lot of maintenance hassle up front. It's priced under 3k and would probably go for less. I wouldn't buy an E30 with 270k miles if you don't want to worry about a lot of maintenance up front. Unless of course you're buying a car that's already been completely refreshed, it will need some work. Old cars need maintenance, especially if you want to track it.
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Jun 15, 2012 13:16
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Yeah. I guess I'm wondering if there's going to be a significant decrease in maintenance burden if I wait for a, say, 170k mile car vs just going with this one. Is there a cutoff point where a car is not even worth looking at? If so, where would you place it?
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Jun 15, 2012 13:34
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It really depends on the car and the previous maintenance done to it. From my perspective, it's worth just finding a nice clean one, replacing everything yourself, and then tracking it. They're old cars and at this point, poo poo will need replacing anyway, unless you find one that's really been taken care of.
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Jun 15, 2012 14:36
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$2-3k seems like a lot of money for a car that's literally been driven far enough to go to the moon, even here in the midwest where BMW instantly commands a price premium because its a LUXURY CAR SUPER RARE FAST BEEMER, so unless it had a lot of work done to it recently, you're almost certain to find a better deal.
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Jun 15, 2012 15:03
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It's listed as "2750 obo" so it would probably go quite a bit lower. But I'll probably pass and keep looking. Thanks for the answers. E: I should have said, it's a 2 door 325is, which is why it caught my eye in the first place. Seems perfect for tracking, but for the milage. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 15:26
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ColdPie posted:It's listed as "2750 obo" so it would probably go quite a bit lower. But I'll probably pass and keep looking. Thanks for the answers. Like rscott touched on, prices vary by region but around here (NW Oregoon) an e30 that isn't either crapped out or super low mileage/OMG like brand new will go for between $1200-$3000. $2750 seems really steep for one with so many miles.
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Jun 15, 2012 15:31
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Decided to double check my facts and came across this disaster.  http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/3072192799.html
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Jun 15, 2012 15:35
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FIRST TIME posted:Decided to double check my facts and came across this disaster. If you're gonna say "the tires alone are worth $1000", why not mention them, at all, in the ad?
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Jun 15, 2012 15:55
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Fermunky posted:If you're gonna say "the tires alone are worth $1000", why not mention them, at all, in the ad? "THERE'S MORE THAT I CANT THINK OF RIGHT NOW"
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Jun 15, 2012 16:16
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voltron posted:What weight oil are you using? I use 15-50 and occasionally see the flickering as well once the oil gets to its hottest point (200 ish). I have an oil pressure gauge in the cabin and it looks ok. I think the pressure light comes on under 7psi. I am using 5-30. Should I maybe put in a quart or two of heavier stuff?
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Jun 15, 2012 16:45
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juche mane posted:I am using 5-30. Should I maybe put in a quart or two of heavier stuff? Yea, 5-30 is way too light. If next winter is a mild as this one was, I'm just going to stick with 15-50 and let the oil warm up a bit before heading off to work.
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Jun 15, 2012 18:30
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I use this stuff from the dealer in my e36 m3. I've never had problems or any oil light flickering. But I also live in Alaska, so it's not very 'hot' out, ever. Mine idles right at the 550rpm range as well. When I autocross I put in a little extra too. Supposedly it helps. How's the valve tick on your guy's cars? I only get it when I autocross. By the time I drive home it's gone.
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Jun 15, 2012 22:03
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Picked up my 325is this morning. gently caress Cloud 9, I'm on Cloud 10 about it. This car is seriously wonderful and I'm lucky to have found one so spectacularly well cared for. It's about as close to "new" as a car from 1994 can look and feel without costing tens of thousands of dollars in labor or facilities. I also learned this morning- it has the M suspension package (not that it really matters, considering most of the components have been replaced at this point, although it's been done with OEM parts). A limited slip diff was an option for this model, but this one doesn't have it, as far as I know- but that's probably for the best. I can also turn the ASC off from the cockpit and pretend I'm the Stig (I will probably never do this).            
trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 01:10
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That interior looks in fantastic shape - I haven't seen one that good in years
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Jun 16, 2012 01:12
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dissss posted:That interior looks in fantastic shape - I haven't seen one that good in years As I mentioned in my original post, the POs were crazy (awesome) about maintenance and upkeep. They had the interior completely reupholstered a few years ago so it's almost like new. There are a few small things here and there (The steering wheel and shift knob are a tad ratty, I might replace/recover them sometime) but on the whole, I really can't complain. There's a box in the trunk full of the old seat leathers and they aren't nearly as pretty.
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Jun 16, 2012 01:17
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So the E30 325i I picked up definitely has a limited slip rear. Was this an option? The build date is 08/88. I fell in love with it as soon as I put the plates on it today. What a ridiculously fun car. I gave it a good wash and we went on some twisty back roads with my friend's STi. I think this may be the best $750 I've ever spent. 
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Jun 16, 2012 01:59
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Noise Complaint posted:So the E30 325i I picked up definitely has a limited slip rear. Was this an option? The build date is 08/88. There's a website that the POs of my E36 gave me (the name's written on a sheet in my glovebox, but I'm sure some goons here know it or you can probably google it) where you can enter the VIN of your BMW and it gives you a full readout of all of the options and specifics that your vehicle was initially purchased with.
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Jun 16, 2012 02:19
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I would give you $1000 cash for your interior. Nice catch.
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Jun 16, 2012 02:52
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I am supremely jealous of all you people able to find cheap E30s that aren't buckets of rust. Also, I've usually been pretty indifferent to the E36, but drat that's a fine looking car.
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Jun 16, 2012 03:00
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rscott posted:$2-3k seems like a lot of money for a car that's literally been driven far enough to go to the moon, even here in the midwest where BMW instantly commands a price premium because its a LUXURY CAR SUPER RARE FAST BEEMER, so unless it had a lot of work done to it recently, you're almost certain to find a better deal. Ain't this the loving truth. So I am intermittently getting an ENGINE OIL LOW light when I first start my car and then the other day when I shut the engine off but but not the electrics so it popped up there as well. Usually it goes away in about 60 seconds. The engine oil is definitely not low. Do oil pumps fail? I know there's the deal where you are supposed to check the bolts holding it up are still in place, I need to do that but haven't yet. Anything else it might be?
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Jun 16, 2012 06:21
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That won't be the oil pump. Just the little level sensor thing in the bottom of the pan. I've had one go open before, and another get stuck, so it's probably nothing bad. They're really easy to replace on M60's too since the bottom of the oil pan is just like a plate on the bottom.
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Jun 16, 2012 06:25
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Did the starter on my 330i last night/this morning. I think I can sum up this job with one image: I mostly followed this e46fanatics DIY, although I didn't remove the fuel filter skidplate. Took about 6 hours total. The most frustrating job I've ever done because it was 90% by feel - at least when I did an e30 325ix clutch I could see all the bolts I was taking out. Electric Bugaloo posted:A limited slip diff was an option for this model, but this one doesn't have it, as far as I know- but that's probably for the best. I can also turn the ASC off from the cockpit and pretend I'm the Stig (I will probably never do this). Why wouldn't you want the LSD? It makes any BMW (or car, really) a hell of a lot more predictible to drive. On an e36 it's a very cost-effective performance upgrade if you can get a 4-bolt e36 m3 diff. Better acceleration and the handling will be noticably better when you push it. Electric Bugaloo posted:There's a website that the POs of my E36 gave me (the name's written on a sheet in my glovebox, but I'm sure some goons here know it or you can probably google it) where you can enter the VIN of your BMW and it gives you a full readout of all of the options and specifics that your vehicle was initially purchased with. Are you thinking of realoem.com (parts database)? I don't know of a website that will actually tell you options based on VIN. That is one immaculate car though, hard to believe it's almost 20 years old.
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Jun 16, 2012 16:29
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Crustashio posted:Did the starter on my 330i last night/this morning. I think I can sum up this job with one image: The E30 starter is still a goddamn magnificent pain in the rear end without a boatload of extensions/swivels/stubby wrenches.
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Jun 16, 2012 17:13
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http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/ This is the link to the site that tells you the options your car has with the last 7 digits of your VIN. Mine was optioned with the LSD. That's kind of awesome.
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Jun 16, 2012 18:08
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Noise Complaint posted:http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/ I never knew that existed, thanks. edit: My 535i came with 4 options. Rear headrests, first aid kit, headlight aiming and Bavaria C business radio. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 18:13
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Crustashio posted:Why wouldn't you want the LSD? It makes any BMW (or car, really) a hell of a lot more predictible to drive. On an e36 it's a very cost-effective performance upgrade if you can get a 4-bolt e36 m3 diff. Better acceleration and the handling will be noticably better when you push it. I thought 325/328/m3 e36's all used the same diffs (different internals for lsd and gearing obviously). I know the cases are the same because I have two diffs. My understanding is that the only real differences are between the 316i/318i 'small case' and the rest of the lineup. What does 4-bolt refer to?
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Jun 16, 2012 18:23
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My red car came out of the factory one year and 5 days after I did. That's adorable.
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Jun 16, 2012 18:23
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That site says my car has "S544A GESCHWINDIGKEITSREGEL. MIT BREMSF. Cruise control with brake function" What does that mean? The guy said it has dynamic cruise control which I guess just means you can change the speed of the car with the lever. But what does "with brake function" mean? My car doesn't have that adaptive thing where it senses cars ahead.
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Jun 16, 2012 18:49
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Probably that it turn off when you apply the brakes?
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Jun 16, 2012 19:33
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revmoo posted:I thought 325/328/m3 e36's all used the same diffs (different internals for lsd and gearing obviously). I know the cases are the same because I have two diffs. My understanding is that the only real differences are between the 316i/318i 'small case' and the rest of the lineup. What does 4-bolt refer to? Accidently left out "input flange". Some m3s (and all 325i/328i) have a driveshaft with a u-joint at the diff input flange, and they are all 4 bolt. The rest of the m3s have a CV joint with a 6-bolt input flange. 4bolt:  6bolt:  Usually need to swap the diff output flanges as the e36 rear axles have slightly different bolt circle diameters, but that is very simple.
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Jun 16, 2012 20:23
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:10 |
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revmoo posted:I thought 325/328/m3 e36's all used the same diffs (different internals for lsd and gearing obviously). I know the cases are the same because I have two diffs. My understanding is that the only real differences are between the 316i/318i 'small case' and the rest of the lineup. What does 4-bolt refer to? It refers to the number of bolts on the diff input flange. Some had 6 most had 4.
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Jun 16, 2012 20:26
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