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Shot a roll of Kodak Ultramax 400 while debating what to do about developing my 400TX. This is the first time I've had photos developed that didn't come out of a disposable camera circa 1999. I can't say I'm terribly pleased with the results. I don't know if this is due to lovely film, lovely scans by Walgreens*, lovely photography, or some combination of the above. I'm posting some of my favorites. Even these took a fair amount of Lightroom white balance adjustment to get the colors looking even half-decent. *The arbitrary crops of the scans make me wonder if they just scanned the lame 4x6 prints they made. Aren't they supposed to scan the film itself with a dedicated film scanner? Or I guess they could have saved the cropped versions instead of giving me the original aspect ratio scans...forgive me, I know jack poo poo about photo processing.  R1-05027-021A by Large Hadron, on Flickr  R1-05027-020A by Large Hadron, on Flickr  R1-05027-008A by Large Hadron, on Flickr
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Jun 11, 2012 19:06
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LargeHadron posted:*The arbitrary crops of the scans make me wonder if they just scanned the lame 4x6 prints they made. Aren't they supposed to scan the film itself with a dedicated film scanner? Or I guess they could have saved the cropped versions instead of giving me the original aspect ratio scans...forgive me, I know jack poo poo about photo processing. Cheap prints today are always made from negative scans. The machine that develops the film also scans it, those scans are then automatically processed and made prints of. The same scans can also be written to a CD or otherwise, if you want to pay for that. But you certainly don't get optical prints from your negatives unless you pay a fortune at a pro lab. As for your Tri-X roll, maybe check if there are some home-developing goons near you who could develop it for you.
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Jun 11, 2012 19:18
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nielsm posted:As for your Tri-X roll, maybe check if there are some home-developing goons near you who could develop it for you. Didn't think of that. I literally just got back from taking my roll to Hunt's. They're going to send it off to some mystery lab. If I like the results, I'll probably learn how to develop at home to save money.
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Jun 11, 2012 21:04
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LargeHadron posted:*The arbitrary crops of the scans make me wonder if they just scanned the lame 4x6 prints they made. As nielsm said, the automatic developer almost certainly is also the scanner. But 35mm film has an image that is 24x36mm, which is the same aspect ratio as 4x6. Having said that, they probably auto-cropped a bit around all edges, because customers would complain if they had uneven white or black borders on some or all sides of their prints. You have the negs, right? Get a scanner (hint: Craiglist, Epson) for cheap, explore!
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Jun 12, 2012 04:43
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ExecuDork posted:I don't think your pictures are bad at all. Eh, I posted the best ones. Plus the colors were super wonky before I messed with them in LR. The cropping is heavier on one short side of each photo when I compare the negatives to the prints. I like the idea of having my own scanner though. Getting prints/scans is pretty expensive. I'll look into it if I decide to keep going with film.
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Jun 12, 2012 04:50
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LargeHadron posted:Getting prints/scans is pretty expensive. I'll look into it if I decide to keep going with film. A scanner will quickly pay for itself and give you far better results than what a minilab gets you.
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Jun 12, 2012 14:36
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LargeHadron posted:Didn't think of that. I literally just got back from taking my roll to Hunt's. They're going to send it off to some mystery lab. If I like the results, I'll probably learn how to develop at home to save money.
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Jun 14, 2012 15:54
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Anyone have any experience with tintypes? Recently picked up a kit from rockaloid.com of 8 plates developer/fixer etc and I'm finding a lot of contradicting information about the process. I've seen some photographers pour a small amount of developer over their plates for about 20 seconds to get it to develop properly, rockaloid says to develop for 2-3 minutes. Worst case it's even more of a learning experience, but I'm just trying to get a little knowledge beforehand to limit any wasted plates.
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Jun 16, 2012 23:29
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Tunnelman posted:Anyone have any experience with tintypes? Recently picked up a kit from rockaloid.com of 8 plates developer/fixer etc and I'm finding a lot of contradicting information about the process. I've seen some photographers pour a small amount of developer over their plates for about 20 seconds to get it to develop properly, rockaloid says to develop for 2-3 minutes. Worst case it's even more of a learning experience, but I'm just trying to get a little knowledge beforehand to limit any wasted plates. Follow Rockaloid's instructions, as I think the kit is closer to a dry plate technique rather than the true Tintype wet plate process.
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Jun 17, 2012 07:18
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An essay on angry snakes and other types of 120 film: Yesterday on a photo-walk, I shot some 120 format Kodak Tri-X 400. Everything seemed to be fine. The weather turned from cloudy to nice and I kept happily shooting away. Then I proceeded into my darkroom and started to put all the stuff needed for loading the film into my changing bag. The weather was quite humid and the air in the darkroom was also quite warm. Imagine my surprise when I couldn't load the drat film onto the spindle. I've done it a dozen times before, without issue. But today, I couldn't load the film onto the development reel. I just - could - not. For the life of me. It was like an angry snake inside the by now extra-humid changing bag. The film also felt weird- thin and papery. And of course the more I swore, sweated and tried to load it the worse the problem became. The film would bulge out of the spindle, it would stick to itself, would sometimes not move at all. Everything to spite my efforts. Finally, after the seventh attempt - I managed to get it loaded. Before that, I had thought the spool was defective and exchanged it, yielding the same results. After development the negatives showed some kinks in the beginning, which didn't affect the images, but there also were what I'd call "tension exposures" from either the static electricity or tiny crinkles from my increasingly rough attempts to load the film onto the reel. Now- I live where the summer is hot and humid, so there's little recourse to that besides maybe blasting the air conditioner for an hour prior. So, does anyone have any tips for loading 120 film in such conditions? Or loading tips in general? Interestingly enough the same film also had some spacing issues. An bad apple? Just a coincidence? Something else?
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Jun 18, 2012 03:03
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Changing bags suck. Especially in the sweaty summer. If you've got a darkroom, just use the darkroom. Or any dark room. Obviously if this is a gang darkroom and not your darkroom, that may not work, but otherwise don't bother with the light-tight sweat factory. Don't be afraid to take a break, either. If you absolutely can't get it, sometimes tossing the film in the tank and coming back to it later makes all the difference in the world. The curl gets a little bit of a chance to lose some set, the film dries out, and you aren't trying to work while covered in sweat. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 18, 2012 03:51
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Yeah, it's really hard to load film when things could get wet. Make sure your reels are bone dry. If you've got a bigger space, it'll be slower to get hot/sticky. They call it a silver-gelatin emulsion because it's silver in Jello, if it gets wet it starts to stick to anything and everything. Make sure you have the wide-flange reels, the narrow-flange reels are a hundred times worse. The wide flange gets a more even and stronger pressure. I refuse to use the narrow flange reels for 120 and try to avoid them period, eventually I will change over completely. e: Wide-flange reels look like this: 
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 18, 2012 04:10
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anyone in vancouver, bc want a free 120 roll of ilford hp5 400? my lady accidentally bought me the wrong size film, i don't have any medium format cams.
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Jun 18, 2012 17:29
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MrMeowMeow posted:anyone in vancouver, bc want a free 120 roll of ilford hp5 400? my lady accidentally bought me the wrong size film, i don't have any medium format cams. Whereabouts are you exactly?
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Jun 18, 2012 18:27
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Pick up a Agfa click for $2 at a thrift store and shoot it anyway.
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Jun 19, 2012 07:33
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Paul MaudDib posted:Make sure you have the wide-flange reels, the narrow-flange reels are a hundred times worse. The wide flange gets a more even and stronger pressure. I refuse to use the narrow flange reels for 120 and try to avoid them period, eventually I will change over completely. I used plastic reels for the first time yesterday and the wide and narrow flanges are like night and day for loading 120 film. Anyway, I like the plastic reels more than the metal ones. They're a bit fiddly to get started, but once the film is in there it's super easy.
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Jun 19, 2012 15:21
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Finally found some time to put my Nikon F3 through its paces. Bought it for my birthday last November and haven't finished a roll until now.    I like this tank of a camera.
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Jun 20, 2012 05:31
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Zombotron posted:Finally found some time to put my Nikon F3 through its paces. Bought it for my birthday last November and haven't finished a roll until now. What lenses? Looks like a normal and a wide?
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Jun 20, 2012 08:22
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I bought a Pentax 6x7 about 3 months ago and put a fresh 6v battery in it. I shot one roll and haven't had a chance to get back to it since. I tried to take it out yesterday and the battery is dead. I'm gonna go buy another today I guess, but am I doing something wrong? It doesn't have a metered finder on it nor does it have MLU, so I can't imagine what would drain the battery other than actually firing the shutter. Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Jun 20, 2012 |
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Jun 20, 2012 15:00
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QPZIL posted:I bought a Pentax 6x7 about 3 months ago and put a fresh 6v battery in it. I shot one roll and haven't had a chance to get back to it since. Hmm, very strange. I would have said you hit the MLU switch, but you don't have one. lovely alkaline batteries aren't the longest-lasting things, it's possible it self-discharged somehow. I don't think you're in danger of hurting the camera but I'd say your circuitry probably isn't entirely healthy. If you're not going to use it for a few weeks and you have some spare cash, Eric Hendrickson will probably be your cheapest option for fixing it.
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Jun 20, 2012 15:23
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QPZIL posted:I bought a Pentax 6x7 about 3 months ago and put a fresh 6v battery in it. I shot one roll and haven't had a chance to get back to it since. For what it's worth my Bronica SQ started doing that before just loving up constantly. I ended up just buying a new body (they're pretty cheap).
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Jun 20, 2012 15:48
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I usually take the battery out of the body (SQ) at the end of the shooting day. Or when I'm not using the camera.
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Jun 21, 2012 00:01
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I got a Minolta Srt-201 with a 50mm and 135mm lenses with a bag, flash, manual, polarizing filter from the pawn shop for $50 two days ago! I put two rolls of film through it and it appears to be clean and working quite well. I brought it into the camera store and the guy was like, "Where's the on switch?" He said they did only digital stuff and had no clue about how "any of that old stuff". They didn't even have black and white 35mm film! Very frustrating. I did a lot of B&W processing in high school, so I know how to do it, I just don't have the stuff to do it. So I am considering that, but it would be a pretty big leap to make. So, the problem I'm having is that where do I buy film? Where can I get it developed besides Walgreens? What the gently caress happened over the last five years?
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Jun 21, 2012 00:35
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Santa is strapped posted:I usually take the battery out of the body (SQ) at the end of the shooting day. Or when I'm not using the camera. Well the shutter (in all my lenses) would only fire at 1/500s about 40% of the time (even with fresh batteries) so i figured it was done.
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Jun 21, 2012 00:40
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Silver Nitrate posted:So, the problem I'm having is that where do I buy film? Where can I get it developed besides Walgreens? Amazon works for me, free shipping and all. Don't go to Walgreens for B&W. Do it yourself or Google camera labs in your area that you can take it to.
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Jun 21, 2012 01:28
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Hey you buttheads, KEH is having an up-to-10% off everything sale right now. Buy everything except the 6x7 TTL finders because I'm buying one Sunday or Monday.
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Jun 21, 2012 01:41
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HPL posted:Whereabouts are you exactly? east van, right off the drive
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Jun 21, 2012 02:31
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QPZIL posted:Hey you buttheads, KEH is having an up-to-10% off everything sale right now. Buy everything except the 6x7 TTL finders because I'm buying one Sunday or Monday. Thanks for reminding me. I just snagged a multicoated 210mm Symmar-S for less than eBay prices.
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Jun 21, 2012 02:37
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QPZIL posted:I bought a Pentax 6x7 about 3 months ago and put a fresh 6v battery in it. I shot one roll and haven't had a chance to get back to it since. My 6x7 body did the same thing and the shutter would randomly stick open. Some research online led me to believe it was caused by the electronics going bad. So I bought a 67 body and no problems since. I would try another battery though just to make sure it wasn't a fluke.
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Jun 21, 2012 02:46
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LargeHadron posted:Amazon works for me, free shipping and all. Don't go to Walgreens for B&W. Do it yourself or Google camera labs in your area that you can take it to. Found out the community art center has a darkroom with 10 enlargers and is stocked with chemicals, so I'm going to go check that out today. There is a camera lab about 40 miles away that sells film, so Amazon will probably be my best bet. One of the Walgreens here has a really nice scanner/post processing machine so I will probably use that for color pictures. I'm really excited about finding the darkroom at the community center, just hope it's functional. 
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Jun 21, 2012 14:40
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I don't know if this belongs here or more in the toycamera thread. I went through most of the various rolls of film I had cross processed and put them together. I have a bunch more on my blog Agfa CT Precisa is my favorite film to cross process sadly this doesn't exist anymore. The new rolls are different. Hard contrast and strong color saturation.  This is lomo Xpro. I think it looks pretty good. No crazy color shifts.  This is Kodak Ektachrome also quite nice, but sometimes way too blue and green.  I also understand it doesn't mean much to compare cross processed film since some photolabs crank up the saturation when scanning the negatives or it depends on how expired the film is.
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Jun 21, 2012 18:54
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Silver Nitrate posted:Found out the community art center has a darkroom with 10 enlargers and is stocked with chemicals, so I'm going to go check that out today. There is a camera lab about 40 miles away that sells film, so Amazon will probably be my best bet. One of the Walgreens here has a really nice scanner/post processing machine so I will probably use that for color pictures. I'm really excited about finding the darkroom at the community center, just hope it's functional. I buy my film mainly from ebay, there are a number of sellers in Hong Kong, Thailand, Taiwan, or mainland China that have decent prices and often cheap or free shipping. Long times to wait, of course, but I loves me some free shipping. I bought a Pentax MX, a camera I've been looking for for about a year, a couple of weeks ago. The seller was local (bought through ebay) and I picked up a 135mm f/3.5 from him when I swung by his place. It's lots of fun to just walk around with a handful of small, lightweight primes.  Pentax MX and Primes by Execudork, on Flickr
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Jun 23, 2012 04:06
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ExecuDork posted:It's lots of fun to just walk around with a handful of small, lightweight primes. I get to use the cargo pockets on my cargo shorts 
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Jun 23, 2012 05:58
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eggsovereasy posted:I get to use the cargo pockets on my cargo shorts 
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Jun 23, 2012 10:44
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evil_bunnY posted:But you wear cargo shorts I never said I was cool.
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Jun 23, 2012 15:56
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What's the best way to store negatives? Refrigerator? Freezer? I have so many that it's a little hard to deal with. Plus I've just moved into a smaller apartment so my fridge options are somewhat limited: food or film? It's a tough call but sometimes I get hungry.
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Jun 23, 2012 19:22
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Mannequin posted:What's the best way to store negatives? Refrigerator? Freezer? I have so many that it's a little hard to deal with. Plus I've just moved into a smaller apartment so my fridge options are somewhat limited: food or film? It's a tough call but sometimes I get hungry. the colder the better but if it's frozen you have to wait a while before shooting it after you take it out iirc
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Jun 23, 2012 19:24
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I think he means developed negatives. Just in sleeves in a dry area. I don't think refrigerating them once they're exposed and developed does anything to extend their longevity. Could be wrong but that's what I do.
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Jun 23, 2012 19:27
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oh, once they're developed they're chemically stable. just keep them in sleeves in a cool dry place
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Jun 23, 2012 19:38
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Day's worth in the fridge, rest in freezer. Once developed just in a cool/dry/dark closet.
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Jun 23, 2012 23:21
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