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timn posted:
Get an EZout and drill reeeeeal carefully down the center of the broken bolt. Use a center punch to start the drill and get it centered perfectly. Soak it in penetrating oil at least overnight (do it now) before you try. If that doesn't work, drill it out and helicoil it. On fasteners that small I just torque by feel. The only time I've ever broken a bolt like that is by using a torque wrench to the 'correct' value.
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Jun 24, 2012 09:24
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Yeah, threads fatigue over time, oil in the threads will mean that it takes more torque to reach the same torque value, etc...unfortunately, those torque values are fresh fasteners from the factory going into dry threads, which isn't the case when you're fixing your bike. Aventari is dead on with the solution, make sure none of the metal shavings get into the engine.
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Jun 24, 2012 15:39
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timn posted:I was doing baby's first valve adjustment on my EX250F and managed to shear off one of the 10mm bolts on the camshaft chain guide. I had my torque wrench set for 18.5 ft-lbs ~ 25 Nm, which is what I interpreted from
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Jun 24, 2012 15:43
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Gweenz posted:Sitting outside or inside? Check the frame for rust or damage. Check the level of the oil. Check closely for oil leaks. Pull up the dust boots off the forks (carefully, as they may be brittle) and check the fork lowers for pitting. Push down on the front suspension and check the lowers again for oil, this will tell you if the fork seals are shot. Check the tires for signs of dry rotting. Check the exhaust for signs of rust or holes. Check the rear sprocket and chain for wear. If possible, do a compression test, check the spark plugs if you do. Bring a multimeter and test battery charging circuit (this one's important you don't want to be chasing down charging problems). Check wiring for signs of wear/modification. Thanks for the valuable advice, it will definitely come in handy on Monday.
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Jun 24, 2012 17:09
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aventari posted:Get an EZout and drill reeeeeal carefully down the center of the broken bolt. If you can get a left-handed drill bit, try that first. Often the counter-clockwise torque pulls the bolt out on its own without having to bother with ez-outs or helicoils or anything like that. Notably, ez-outs will destroy the bolt, so if that doesn't work your only choice is to drill a now weakened and damaged bolt. Starting with a LH drill gives you more options.
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Jun 24, 2012 21:22
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Sagebrush posted:If you can get a left-handed drill bit, try that first. Amen to this. Most extractors are totally hardened bullshit. If they snap while in the bolt, you're in worse poo poo than you were. A left handed drill bit at about 70-80% of the diameter of the snapped bolt will almost always get it out. Start by drilling a 3-4 mm. hole in the bolt with an ordinary right-handed bit. If you're willing to destroy the left-handed bit in the process, go light on the cutting fluid once you're 10 mm. or so down the bolt, and it'll usually back right out. Remember to CAREFULLY mask the engine before drilling. Painters masking-tape is the most important tool for any engine work. A fistful of oil-soaked cotton-twist above the masking and around the bolt is also good for catching shavings. Don't underestimate how far steel-shavings travel. Edit: Since I'm also known as Captain Obvious and I'll really hate to witness you calling forum user Dr. Sagebrush out on bad advise after a hard night of drilling 0.2 mm. down that bolt; A left handed drill-bit turns counter-clockwise. Be sure that the thing you use to rotate the bit is able to do that and is in that setting. Also go easy on the RPMs. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jun 24, 2012 |
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Jun 24, 2012 21:51
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Cheers man, thanks! I'm hoping to take my caliper apart a bit within the next few days. I'll probably do it when my brake shoes come in, probably tomorrow according to BB (fingers crossed). After that I *should* be good to ride...? I know my forks leak a bit (I have to keep topping them off with air to keep them stiff) so I hope that's not a repair I have to make right this instant. Once again, next time I have a good block of time I'll take pics and see what you guys think.
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Jun 24, 2012 21:55
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Boru posted:Cheers man, thanks! I'm hoping to take my caliper apart a bit within the next few days. I'll probably do it when my brake shoes come in, probably tomorrow according to BB (fingers crossed). No problem. Leaking forks might be a safety issue. If they leak oil, you should take it seriously. If they just leak the air support, it's a minor issue but irritating. It's probably just the top cap vents and/or O-rings. They're available and not really expensive or challenging to replace.
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Jun 24, 2012 22:15
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I will back up everything Cornelius is saying as being completely true. I use it consistently for engine work on my cars. Afterward make sure you get a shop vac and carefully suck out loose shavings before removing your cotton/other catching device and masking tape. You can never be too careful, really.
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Jun 24, 2012 23:58
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I will see if I can find a left-handed bit and try that first since I wouldn't put snapping the extractor past me at this point. Turns out the top part of the cylinder head comes off easily with just two bolts and some wigglin', so I can do everything safely away from the rest of engine and without trying to contort a drill around the bike frame. On that note, I also discovered the threading goes all the way through the bottom of the bracket, so I have access to the flat unmarred end of the bolt. Is there anything to gain by trying to turn it out the bottom or back it out the top from the bottom?
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Jun 25, 2012 00:22
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timn posted:On that note, I also discovered the threading goes all the way through the bottom of the bracket, so I have access to the flat unmarred end of the bolt. Is there anything to gain by trying to turn it out the bottom or back it out the top from the bottom? YES. Soak it in liquid wrench, grab it with a pair of vise-grips, and turn slowly but firmly. If you can get vise-grips clamped onto on a stuck bolt, 90% of the time that's all you end up needing.
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Jun 25, 2012 00:42
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Sagebrush posted:YES. Soak it in liquid wrench, grab it with a pair of vise-grips, and turn slowly but firmly. If you can get vise-grips clamped onto on a stuck bolt, 90% of the time that's all you end up needing. Haha sorry, should have been more specific. The end of the bolt is about flush with the underside, so there's nothing to grab onto. I was just curious if there was risk of damaging the threads by turning the marred end of the bolt the rest of the way through. The marred end has a fairly diagonal cut to it, so I figured it would be easier and safer to just drill into the undamaged bottom end and turn it out that way.
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Jun 25, 2012 00:49
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timn posted:The marred end has a fairly diagonal cut to it, so I figured it would be easier and safer to just drill into the undamaged bottom end and turn it out that way. If you can get a drill on the back of it a normal drill bit will work the same way as a left hand one would from the front
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Jun 25, 2012 02:15
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What should I do in order to extract a bolt with only one side being available to me? (An old bleeder bolt's head snapped - it is flush with the caliper)
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Jun 25, 2012 02:26
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Frankie! posted:What should I do in order to extract a bolt with only one side being available to me? (An old bleeder bolt's head snapped - it is flush with the caliper) Left-hand threaded drill bit, unless I'm mis-understanding the situation. Who makes generic aftermarket side stands (or center stands)? Anybody? The asphalt under the Husky got so hot today that the kick stand sunk in so far that it fell over, and the kick stand is broken now. No, I'm not going to replace it with sewer pipe.
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Jun 25, 2012 02:51
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Safety Dance posted:Left-hand threaded drill bit, unless I'm mis-understanding the situation. Come on! This is something that could be replaced with a pipe! You know you want to
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Jun 25, 2012 03:17
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Use 2 pipes in an inverted t formation.
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Jun 25, 2012 04:21
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How about some angle iron, welded into a crow's foot shape and sharpened into talons at the ends? VVV that's much better and I would unironically do that if I had some POS rat bike Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 15:09
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No, no, clearly the answer is a small crowbar
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Jun 25, 2012 15:13
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CA builds a rat bike: the neverending story
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Jun 25, 2012 15:26
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My coworker has a nice welder and a bunch of stock. I'm going to pick up something semi-permanent at the local Cycle Gear (a tri-stand should work, yes?), and fabricate something this weekend.
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Jun 25, 2012 15:29
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Why do you keep refusing to just buy parts that are already made? I understand the DIY mentality but drat man. EDIT - To be more helpful, go here : http://www.husqvarnaoutlet.com/oem_parts and fill out the form after you look up your part number. The side stand part number for an 08 SM610 for example is 8DB0 87179. I forget what exact bike you have but try that or going and getting your poo poo welded. EDIT 2 - \/ Go buy a 10 cent plastic kickstand puck then and it'll solve the issue. Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 16:09
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Husky dealer is closed today, otherwise I'd call them up and get a price on a side stand. Hundreds of dollars and several weeks later, I'll get the same lovely weak aluminum kickstand that sinks into hot asphalt that I had yesterday.
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Jun 25, 2012 16:16
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If you're considering welding up a whole new kickstand, why don't you just weld a wider foot to the bottom of an existing model? If you stick on a plate that's twice the diameter, you'll have four times the area and a quarter the pressure. All you'd need, if you're going to use that "lovely weak aluminum kickstand", is an AC TIG and some 1/8" (maybe 1/4" depending on how heavy the bike is) plate.
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Jun 25, 2012 16:38
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I say go for it, build a better kickstand. I think you're probably like me, and find immense pleasure in engineering your own parts and fixes that are (usually) better than the OEM. Some decent steel tube* will be stronger and barely any heavier than the aluminium, give it a good foot, 1.5-2x the diameter of the old one (for reasons that Sagebrush mentioned). *If you really want to go the up-cycling/found-parts route, find a busted chromoly steel bicycle frame or something at the local scrap yard, it's bound to have several diameters of tubing, one of which will surely be usable. We have a recycling yard here that gets everything from white goods to furniture and electronics. I've yet to fix a motorbike with anything from there but I recently kitted out my 3D printer project with stepper motors from some de-commissioned disco lights and a big colour xerox printer and used scavenged high-grade capacitors to fix the power supply in my iPod dock. My (more hacker-minded) friends and I call the yard the Obtanium Mine. Repair don't replace, re-purpose don't re-process, re-use don't re-cycle and if it just doesn't exist, invent it. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 16:54
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Safety Dance posted:Husky dealer is closed today, otherwise I'd call them up and get a price on a side stand. Hundreds of dollars and several weeks later, I'll get the same lovely weak aluminum kickstand that sinks into hot asphalt that I had yesterday. As much as I'd like to see you weld a 50" diameter pipe to your kickstand or something, the real solution is to just put a tin can lid or some other flat piece of metal down on the ground and put your kickstand on it. That weak-rear end aluminum side stand looks better than whatever steampunk thing will eventually get bodged on there.
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Jun 25, 2012 16:56
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Olde Weird Tip posted:That weak-rear end aluminum side stand looks better than whatever steampunk thing will eventually get bodged on there.
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Jun 25, 2012 17:02
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It's a Husky, it should just be leaned up against walls, stop signs, etc. when stopped.
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Jun 25, 2012 17:19
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Safety Dance posted:Husky dealer is closed today, otherwise I'd call them up and get a price on a side stand. Hundreds of dollars and several weeks later, I'll get the same lovely weak aluminum kickstand that sinks into hot asphalt that I had yesterday. No matter what you build, asphalt will still be a thixitropic liquid and you'll still run the risk of having this happen, even with a marginally-wider foot. Everyone who parks a bike at my job has some kind of puck in their parking space (my boss's is a crushed can  ) because it's dumb not to park on a puck on asphalt. poo poo, MSF gives pucks out for free.Don't use jackstands on asphalt without boards under them, either.
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Jun 25, 2012 17:24
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ReelBigLizard posted:*If you really want to go the up-cycling/found-parts route, find a busted chromoly steel bicycle frame or something at the local scrap yard, it's bound to have several diameters of tubing, one of which will surely be usable. Eh, I'd be careful about that. Butted steel bicycle tubing is incredibly thin -- on a high-quality racing bike from the 70s it can be as thin as the wall of an aluminum can -- because the frame is designed in a way that the only loads are in compression and tension. If you take a tube out of the frame and try to bend it in half, or you put it in a vise and flatten it, you'll find that it collapses quite easily under tension. At least some part of the load on a kickstand is going to be tension just by nature of the geometry. Purpose-built steel motorcycle kickstands are usually solid castings or extrusions, not tubes. Basically it's going to be a bunch of working out the tradeoffs between material, diameter, and wall thickness before you come up with something acceptable, so unless you really feel the need to have a bespoke kickstand, you might as well just get a regular old stand and modify the foot. ReelBigLizard posted:Repair don't replace, re-purpose don't re-process, re-use don't re-cycle and if it just doesn't exist, invent it. I always support this life philosophy, though. Too few people these days know how to make things.
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Jun 25, 2012 18:40
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A followup from here regarding losing power/stopping on a Bandit 600 after 2 hours of riding. I don't think gas is the problem, I checked the tank and there was visible gas in the tank without shaking it (there's no gas gauge on the 2001). Is part of the visible gas reserved for the reserve tank? Unfortunately my petcock is broken off and I didn't have the tools to turn it to RES. Anyway, I refilled it today (it fit about 10 liters). It's quite warm outside (well warm for being Norway (about 18 C) although the bike is parked in a cold garage so maybe 12 C), but it still won't start without choke. If I try to use the throttle without being very careful it just bogs down and stops. I can twist it very gently and it will rev up. Is this normal behaviour before it warms up? Now I'm kind of scared to do any longer rides in case it decides to stop after a few hours.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:07
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zapateria posted:. It's quite warm outside (well warm for being Norway (about 18 C) although the bike is parked in a cold garage so maybe 12 C), but it still won't start without choke. If I try to use the throttle without being very careful it just bogs down and stops. I can twist it very gently and it will rev up. Is this normal behaviour before it warms up? My friend's Ninja expressed the same problems a few months back. An extremely thorough carb cleaning and tuning fixed it.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:13
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Safety Dance posted:Not broken in half like it is. Well right, I meant when you get another one
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Jun 25, 2012 20:27
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Well right, I meant when you get another one I'll tell you what the dealer says tomorrow.
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Jun 25, 2012 20:28
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zapateria posted:It's quite warm outside (well warm for being Norway (about 18 C) although the bike is parked in a cold garage so maybe 12 C), but it still won't start without choke. If I try to use the throttle without being very careful it just bogs down and stops. I can twist it very gently and it will rev up. Is this normal behaviour before it warms up? My Bandit 600 does this for the firstish minute of running if I put off the choke too early and it isn't warmed up enough. I usually have the choke to 2000rpm while I put my helmet and gloves on, and then choke it down to slightly over idle. I'll remove choke after half a kilometer of riding. Is it actually supposed to start without choke? I've always used choke. Even on warm days when it's parked in the parking lot under the sun. EDIT: Regarding sidestand pucks, I'd love to know where to get one for my Bandit. My employee parking has interlock though so I'm good for now. 
Ziploc fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 21:00
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Ziploc posted:EDIT: Regarding sidestand pucks, I'd love to know where to get one for my Bandit. My employee parking has interlock though so I'm good for now. https://www.denniskirk.com/507261.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse Doesnt get much cheaper than that unless you make your own.
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Jun 25, 2012 21:08
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Ziploc posted:Is it actually supposed to start without choke? I've always used choke. Even on warm days when it's parked in the parking lot under the sun. I don't know, I just remember reading this not too long ago, regarding a Bandit with choke Ola posted:In summer temps, even British ones, it should start ok without choke / enrichment circuit / fast idle. Might need some encouragement to hold idle, but still. How does it do without choke? I'm more concerned about it dying on me when warm though, especially since I'm too clueless about bikes to start troubleshooting on the road if I get stuck somewhere.
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Jun 25, 2012 22:21
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zapateria posted:A followup from here regarding losing power/stopping on a Bandit 600 after 2 hours of riding. quote:Anyway, I refilled it today (it fit about 10 liters). It's quite warm outside (well warm for being Norway (about 18 C) although the bike is parked in a cold garage so maybe 12 C), but it still won't start without choke. If I try to use the throttle without being very careful it just bogs down and stops. I can twist it very gently and it will rev up. Is this normal behaviour before it warms up? It's a 12l tank. You ran out of gas. You've only got 2-2.5 hours of gas in the thing total. Get your petcock fixed. "RES" will give you another 100km or so to find a gas station. The choke thing is normal. I have a b1200, and it needs choke to start at 35C, in the sun. "Warmed up" for these bikes is like 130C, below that, and they're cold. Oil/air cooled and all.
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Jun 25, 2012 22:37
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My 96 cbr needs to have the choke on to start. After a short time, I can turn it off. I, too, had the "new rider runs out of gas" experience last week. Day Man fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 26, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 23:58
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Olde Weird Tip posted:https://www.denniskirk.com/507261.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse Here's a 1 cent kickstand puck  http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Guard-Official-Hockey-Puck/dp/B0027B0PHI
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Jun 26, 2012 00:20
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