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Falcon2001 posted:Welp, that definitely confirms I asked a stupid question then so this was in the right place. I assume asking about specific cars I'm thinking of purchasing is probably alright though in this thread? I sure hope so  Because I'm looking at maybe buying a 2002-2003ish Mazda 323F 2,0 Sport (Americans will know it as the Protegé5). From what I read, it's a great car and I seem to remember AI being rather fond of them. But my question is, are there any particular issues or weaknesses I should be on the lookout for? I mean, apart from the usual rust, stupid modzzz, mistreated engine etc.?
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Jun 25, 2012 17:20
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Rust (like you said) and the gearbox would be the two areas of immediate concern to me. Proteges rust in new and amazing places that you usually don't see modern cars rust in. Might also want to check about the timing belt interval - it's supposed to be a noninterference motor but PBCrunch recently had an ordeal trying to flip a 2.0 because it somehow destroyed itself. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jun 25, 2012 |
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Jun 25, 2012 18:16
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So a week and a half ago I took my RX8 in to a body shop to get my bumper and fender fixed after letting someone else drive my car (directly into the back of a parked car) The shop called today to ask me if I ever have trouble starting my car. Immediately I knew they must have moved the car while it was cold and didn't wait for it to warm up before they turned it off. I told them to let it get warm before turning it off, but I guess that message didn't get relayed to the person that actually moved the car. They still haven't been able to get the car to start after I told them the procedure from the manual (hook it up to a battery charger, floor the gas pedal, and crank it for 15-20 seconds, let the starter cool down for a few seconds, then crank it again, repeat until it starts) but it's not working yet. I'm guessing my plugs are probably toast now (just went in last month), and I've heard horror stories of low compression and getting a reman engine from mazda under the 100k mile engine warranty after a particularly bad flooding incident. While I wouldn't mind a "new" engine I've already been without my car for a week and a half and an engine replacement is gonna keep me out of it for another... I don't even know how long. So I guess my stupid questions are: 1. How long does it usually take (from dropping off the car at the dealer and getting it back) for the whole mazda replacement engine process for the RX8 (there are some rotary guys here so I'm assuming at least one of them has gone through this at some point) and 2. Is my worrying about low compression/engine replacement justified in this situation, or is one flooding incident really that big of a deal? I just want my car back, I'm so sick of this loaner Prius. 
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Jun 25, 2012 18:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Might also want to check about the timing belt interval - it's supposed to be a noninterference motor but PBCrunch recently had an ordeal trying to flip a 2.0 because it somehow destroyed itself. That carnage wasn't from the timing belt - IIRC the valves weren't even bent. It looked like detonation had destroyed it, with a side of serious abuse.
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Jun 25, 2012 18:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Rust (like you said) and the gearbox would be the two areas of immediate concern to me. Proteges rust in new and amazing places that you usually don't see modern cars rust in. Thanks  Luckily, most of the cars I'm looking at have had anti-rust treatments within the last couple of years, but I'll keep an eye out inside the rear fenders etc. Timing belt will be changed ASAP for peace of mind if I buy one, unless there is solid printed evidence that the previous owner had it done by a proper mechanic. Part of me wants to save up for another 3-4-5 months and get a Mazda 3 instead. Probably a decent idea, all things considered.
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Jun 25, 2012 18:41
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Falcon2001 posted:Welp, that definitely confirms I asked a stupid question then so this was in the right place. I assume asking about specific cars I'm thinking of purchasing is probably alright though in this thread? There's also this thread, which may be relevant: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538 That thread is definitely ok for asking what car you should buy.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:16
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So I might be flying to the East Coast and driving an old Dart back from Jersey to Texas and have been looking at all my options (shipping vs driving). I remember a thread on moving cross-country while towing a car, but nothing really about car shipping itself. I've seen plenty of stories in other threads, but not a thread devoted to it. I'd like to put together feedback on the shipping companies and a general how-to when you're looking at such a risky adventure. I'm asking y'all first if you'd be interested in a full thread on the topic. I can't create all the content, as this'll be my first trip, but can organize it all into an easy to read format after a few submissions. Also, I'd like to see more anecdotes from those of y'all that've flown across the country to buy an old car and the ensuing drive back with a car that you have no experience with.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:50
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GutBomb posted:So a week and a half ago I took my RX8 in to a body shop to get my bumper and fender fixed after letting someone else drive my car (directly into the back of a parked car) I don't know if the same bullshit FC's had applies to RX8's, but the failproof way to unflood one of them was to pull the ECU fuse (disabling any fuel pumping) and crank it with the gas pedal floored for ten seconds, replacing the fuse, and it should start after that.
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Jun 25, 2012 20:09
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kimbo305 posted:There's also this thread, which may be relevant: Hmm, that should be in the FAQ...
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Jun 25, 2012 20:10
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EightBit posted:I don't know if the same bullshit FC's had applies to RX8's, but the failproof way to unflood one of them was to pull the ECU fuse (disabling any fuel pumping) and crank it with the gas pedal floored for ten seconds, replacing the fuse, and it should start after that. With the RX8 the ECU is smart enough to know to turn off the fuel pump if you start with the gas pedal floored so no need to pull the fuse.
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Jun 25, 2012 20:18
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Sir Tonk posted:So I might be flying to the East Coast and driving an old Dart back from Jersey to Texas and have been looking at all my options (shipping vs driving). I remember a thread on moving cross-country while towing a car, but nothing really about car shipping itself. I've seen plenty of stories in other threads, but not a thread devoted to it. Your best bet is an independent shipper, I've had numerous vehicles shipped halfway across the country without any trouble for under $500 each.
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Jun 25, 2012 20:25
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kimbo305 posted:There's also this thread, which may be relevant: Did anyone ever tell you that you're awesome because you're awesome. And yeah, this should go in the FAQ.
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Jun 25, 2012 20:33
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Probably too specific a question with too few details, but I'll ask anyway: I'm seriously considering an '87 Gran Fury that's in good running shape, but I'd be shipping it from a state with no emissions testing to California, where we have what are apparently the strictest emissions standards in the country. '87 is too new to be exempt from emissions testing, but old enough (I'm assuming) to be a hardcore polluter. I also know the lean burn system to have been disconnected, by most accounts a good thing operationally but that might worsen its output too. My question- is it possible for this car to be incapable of passing emissions, or is this a problem that in the worst case will require $500 and a day or two in the shop? Bonus question, on a scale from "not a chance in hell" to "maybe" what are the odds of such a beast passing as it is?
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Jun 25, 2012 20:59
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If I have a bad O2 sensor is that going to cause misfires, or at least throwing codes for misfires? I assume so but wanted to make sure. I'm getting a bunch of codes for misfires, and one for the bank 2 O2 sensor, which I assume directly effect those cylinders reporting the misfire.
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Jun 26, 2012 00:27
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GutBomb posted:2. Is my worrying about low compression/engine replacement justified in this situation, or is one flooding incident really that big of a deal? Anecdotal, but my brother's 04 flooded a few times (I think 3 or more), and it was running like a top when he sold it with 80k on the odo. I personally wouldn't worry about it flooding once.
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Jun 26, 2012 02:02
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I have a set of original OEM Yokohama Advan tires from my old 2003 Lancer Evo that I was planning on using on my Talon when I got around to rebuilding it. Only I didn't plan on the rebuild taking 9 years to happen. I still have the tires and they only have around 3,000 miles on them and look to be in great condition. Is there some sort of test I can do to make sure these tires are ok to use after sitting for 9 years? They've been sitting on their side, in plastic tire bags, with no wheel in them, and always in a relatively climate controlled garage. I don't see any visible cracks or wear from age, so I assume they should be ok, but I thought I'd ask here to see if anyone has any experience with this. Crummy picture: 
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Jun 26, 2012 02:53
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BoostCreep posted:I have a set of original OEM Yokohama Advan tires from my old 2003 Lancer Evo that I was planning on using on my Talon when I got around to rebuilding it. Only I didn't plan on the rebuild taking 9 years to happen. I still have the tires and they only have around 3,000 miles on them and look to be in great condition. Is there some sort of test I can do to make sure these tires are ok to use after sitting for 9 years? They've been sitting on their side, in plastic tire bags, with no wheel in them, and always in a relatively climate controlled garage. I don't see any visible cracks or wear from age, so I assume they should be ok, but I thought I'd ask here to see if anyone has any experience with this. Even in a semi-climate-controlled environment, the rubber can start breaking down. They will probably be greasy and hard as hell, and there is a chance that the rubber might start to separate once inflated and loaded. It seems like a pretty big gamble for a few hundred bucks' savings. Even if you inflate them on a wheel and they seem OK, there's no real telling until the tires get up to temperature and speed, and then you might not like the results. There's a reason retailers don't typically sell tires over about 4 years old even if they've been sitting in climate-controlled storage. Edit: Tire Rack says the following: Tire Rack posted:Our experience has been that when properly stored and cared for, most street tires have a useful life in service of between six to ten years. And while part of that time is spent as the tire travels from the manufacturing plant to the manufacturer's distribution center, to the retailer and to you, the remainder is the time it spends on your vehicle. So, 6-10 years from date of manufacture. Check the DOT code on the tires, but be aware that they are basically at the end of their useful life by anyone's standards. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Jun 26, 2012 |
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Jun 26, 2012 03:31
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Not a chance in hell I'd use those tires.
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Jun 26, 2012 03:35
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus station wagon that I got for a very low price from my parents. It has very low milage (~50k) and was very gently used, and apparently it'd had part of the undercarriage break off(!) It had always run a little loud, and I just chalked that up to a quirk of the car. Today, when stopped at a red light, a woman told me something was hanging off the bottom of my car. When I got to work, I looked underneath, and it appears that a metal covering that sits between the muffler(maybe? I don't know part names) and the body of the car had lost a bolt, and was hanging lower than it should. I recently drove across the country from Indiana to California, so my guess is it came loose along the way - the Ford seemed louder when I went through the rockies, but I assumed that was just from straining to go up steep hills at 55-75mph. I apologize for the poor description, I'm a total car newbie - I have basically no knowledge of anything other than how to call AAA. I took some pictures with my iPhone and uploaded them here. I was hoping someone could guesstimate approximately how much a reputable repair shop would charge to fix the issue... I know it is impossible to say for sure over the internet, but my main concern is that I can get a ballpark figure so I don't get reamed by a mechanic. Or maybe this is minor enough I could fix it myself with some duct tape? Thanks so much for the help.
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Jun 26, 2012 03:48
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Sounds like a heat shield. You can probably fix it yourself for pennies. Go to Autozone and see if they can help you figure out the correct bolt size.
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Jun 26, 2012 03:51
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dreesemonkey posted:If I have a bad O2 sensor is that going to cause misfires, or at least throwing codes for misfires? I assume so but wanted to make sure. I'm getting a bunch of codes for misfires, and one for the bank 2 O2 sensor, which I assume directly effect those cylinders reporting the misfire. The opposite, actually; I can't think of any situation where an O2 sensor would cause a misfire, unless it's reading leaner than it ought to and the computer is dumping in a shitload of fuel to compensate, making it so rich the cylinder doesn't fire; that usually means an exhaust leak before the sensor is sucking in air, so that's easy to check for. When you have a misfire, the unburnt oxygen is read by the sensor, which registers it as an ultra-lean reading. Factory O2 sensors are usually narrowband, meaning they really only signal whether the amount of oxygen they sense is above or below 14.7:1 AFR in closed loop, and when trimmed properly it will oscillate between the two at idle. A misfire will cause it to read lean all the time, which the computer interprets as a sensor fault and throws the code for it. Now, if it's the upstream (bank 2 sensor 1) sensor, it could also be fouled from the unburnt fuel; only way to check is to get the misfire fixed and visually check the sensor, and replace if necessary. If it's the downstream (sensor 2), that could indicate a restricted cat due to the excessive unburnt fuel overheating it and degrading the catalysst material. Basically is it B2S1 or B2S2?
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Jun 26, 2012 04:02
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My girlfriend was pulling out of a spot when she heard a noise and the front left side of her 2001 Hyundai Santa Fei dropped down a few inches. She got out and saw this: Here's a few pictures of what it looks like in the wheel well:   Diagnosis? Broken ball joint? How much do you think it will run her?
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Jun 26, 2012 04:03
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Insurrectum posted:Diagnosis? Broken ball joint? How much do you think it will run her? Holy gently caress she is lucky it didnt happen while she was driving! How did you not hear the clunks, the poo poo people ignore on their cars is unreal. Anyways, around 200 bucks, that's assuming a couple hours shop time and a part. Actually make it 250, because if that side is broke the other one is right behind it.
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Jun 26, 2012 04:06
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Rhyno posted:Sounds like a heat shield. You can probably fix it yourself for pennies. Go to Autozone and see if they can help you figure out the correct bolt size. Its a heat shield. Common problem on the Focus, probably because Ford made the shields too thin and over time vibration causes the fastener holding it to the body to break through the shield. The fastener isn't exactly a bolt...its basically a wide piece of sheetmetal that's been crimped in the pattern of a hex head at the edges and a simple hole drilled through the middle, and around the exhaust tunnel there are studs sticking out with a very coarse thread that basically bites into the fasteners. A popular fix is to buy a number of stainless steel washers slightly larger than the fastener to cover more surface area and slip them between the shield and the "nut."
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Jun 26, 2012 04:16
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Please tell me what that sounds like and under what conditions you hear those sounds. That's terrifying. E: the ball joint
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Jun 26, 2012 04:20
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Holy gently caress she is lucky it didnt happen while she was driving! How did you not hear the clunks, the poo poo people ignore on their cars is unreal. At my old house my neighbor broke the balljoint on his Mazda 929 climbing the curb to get into the alley - he then left the demon-cambered car stranded on top of the curb with a "Do not tow, Car is sick  " sign on the window while he tried to convince Canadian Tire into towing the car there, doing just one of the balljoints and not proceeding to do a safety inspection on the rest of the suspension afterward.
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Jun 26, 2012 04:29
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NancyPants posted:Please tell me what that sounds like and under what conditions you hear those sounds. That's terrifying. Its a rattling or a clunk. When your car makes noises that don't sound right, its trying to tell you "Hey I need attention!"
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Jun 26, 2012 04:34
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Even in a semi-climate-controlled environment, the rubber can start breaking down. They will probably be greasy and hard as hell, and there is a chance that the rubber might start to separate once inflated and loaded. It seems like a pretty big gamble for a few hundred bucks' savings. Well that's not what I was hoping to hear. Oh well. I guess I'll take them to a tire shop locally and see if they can inspect them or something as a last ditch effort. It's not a couple hundred bucks in saving, those tires are $1,432.00 for a set on Tire Rack right now. Thanks for the advice! Edit: Maybe I can sell them to a drifter as trash rubber for a couple hundred bucks to recoup some money. 
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Jun 26, 2012 04:37
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NancyPants posted:Please tell me what that sounds like and under what conditions you hear those sounds. That's terrifying. Whenever she pulled out of a spot (or occasionally when driving, turned the wheel really far) you would hear and feel a big THUNK. It wasn't exactly something you could ignore. I'm pretty sure she didn't take it in because she was afraid of what it might be and just didn't want to know. 
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Jun 26, 2012 04:44
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Geoj posted:Its a heat shield. Common problem on the Focus, probably because Ford made the shields too thin and over time vibration causes the fastener holding it to the body to break through the shield. The fastener isn't exactly a bolt...its basically a wide piece of sheetmetal that's been crimped in the pattern of a hex head at the edges and a simple hole drilled through the middle, and around the exhaust tunnel there are studs sticking out with a very coarse thread that basically bites into the fasteners. A popular fix is to buy a number of stainless steel washers slightly larger than the fastener to cover more surface area and slip them between the shield and the "nut." Ok cool. I'm really busy with work, is it going to cause a lot of damage if I duct tape the thing until I can get to a hardware store for a more permanent fix?
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Jun 26, 2012 05:12
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BoostCreep posted:Well that's not what I was hoping to hear. Oh well. I guess I'll take them to a tire shop locally and see if they can inspect them or something as a last ditch effort. It's not a couple hundred bucks in saving, those tires are $1,432.00 for a set on Tire Rack right now. Thanks for the advice! No tire shop is going to tell you they're good. It's their rear end
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Jun 26, 2012 05:37
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Insurrectum posted:
Looks like the ball joint broke and the CV axle separated. I'd budget for a few hundred bucks to get it fixed.
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Jun 26, 2012 05:55
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GregNorc posted:Ok cool. I'm really busy with work, is it going to cause a lot of damage if I duct tape the thing until I can get to a hardware store for a more permanent fix? The duct tape will catch fire. Use a bent metal coat hanger.
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Jun 26, 2012 06:24
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Fucknag posted:The opposite, actually; I can't think of any situation where an O2 sensor would cause a misfire, unless it's reading leaner than it ought to and the computer is dumping in a shitload of fuel to compensate, making it so rich the cylinder doesn't fire; that usually means an exhaust leak before the sensor is sucking in air, so that's easy to check for. This might actually be what's happening, at least I'm hopeful. It's throwing a code for lean conditions but at idle it smells pig-rich and idles poorly. Also, I haven't checked but the gas gauge is further down than it should be for the miles we drove, so it's probably getting awful MPG. I got a bluetooth OBDII scanner to pull the codes and there was another sensor test that showed my "lean to rich" sensor as taking too long to respond or something as well. It's the upstream sensor, bank 2 it says (thankfully the easy one to get at). I ordered an O2 sensor and hopefully that's all it is. For good measure here were the codes that are lingering: P0300 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire P1153 - Air/Fuel sensor circuit (Bank 2 sensor 1)
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Jun 26, 2012 11:41
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BoostCreep posted:Well that's not what I was hoping to hear. Oh well. I guess I'll take them to a tire shop locally and see if they can inspect them or something as a last ditch effort. It's not a couple hundred bucks in saving, those tires are $1,432.00 for a set on Tire Rack right now. Thanks for the advice! Any tire shop worth their salt will just look at the date code and tell you no. There's a reason tire manufacturers print those on the sidewall.
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Jun 26, 2012 14:31
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Remy Marathe posted:My question- is it possible for this car to be incapable of passing emissions, or is this a problem that in the worst case will require $500 and a day or two in the shop? Bonus question, on a scale from "not a chance in hell" to "maybe" what are the odds of such a beast passing as it is? No chance in hell. It seems pretty routine to have to dump older cars in surrounding states that do not have as strict emission standards. And that is for cars manufactured to run in California. If you have a car not manufactured to run in California, the usual advice is don't bother. On the other hand Canadian cars seem to do well, so if you are shipping from Canada... Someone smarter might have better advice. You live in California. Ask the next guy you see driving a classic car what he does to make it pass. There are some additives which are bad for the car which allow you to pass inspections sometimes, which are not legal.
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Jun 26, 2012 15:58
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EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
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zundfolge posted:Looks like the ball joint broke and the CV axle separated. I'd budget for a few hundred bucks to get it fixed. So this morning we got a tow truck, and the second he starts lifting the front tires... all the transmission fluid starts leaking out the pan. I imagine that budget will have to be increased.
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Jun 26, 2012 18:15
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Rhyno posted:Your best bet is an independent shipper, I've had numerous vehicles shipped halfway across the country without any trouble for under $500 each. Yeah that's what I thought, but all the quotes I've seen have been at least a grand. So here's a question for AI, what shipping company have y'all used? I've seen stories on here of their cars getting hosed up on the trip and the process of getting the company to fix it being quite challenging. It'd cost me around $600 in gas to drive it back and while that would be fun, I'd much rather ship it if possible.
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Jun 26, 2012 19:03
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Insurrectum posted:So this morning we got a tow truck, and the second he starts lifting the front tires... all the transmission fluid starts leaking out the pan. I imagine that budget will have to be increased. There's a big hole in the transmission that the CV axle slides into. If the axle is removed, the transmission fluid will leak out, as you're now well aware. The shop will have to top off the transmission when they install the new axle, but it shouldn't take that much fluid, and ATF isn't that expensive.
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Jun 26, 2012 19:22
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Got to change the front pads and discs on my 2001 Vauxhall (Opel) Corsa. I've done some reading, but nevertheless this is the first time I've done this job so I am hoping that there are some pearls of wisdom out there that might help during the repair? is there anything that is not very obvious but very important not to overlook?
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Jun 26, 2012 19:55
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