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serious gaylord posted:I did another thing. Had a go at doing an Ork this time. This thing is super pretty. I love the blue detailing on the green.
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Jun 28, 2012 18:40
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  This is where I am at the moment and I am going to call it for tonight. I don't know if I like the red for the edging on the juggernaut. I think I should have left it the beaten up bronze of the model. I will probably paint the rest of the model and then have a think about it.
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Jun 28, 2012 18:58
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^^^ That looks awesome. Is it just me, or do Vallejo Game Color fleshtones only seem like they're appropriate for painting models who have sever jaundice? They appear to have way too much yellow in them... Related, can anyone give me some tips on how to paint skin using those colors? The impression I'm getting is that I need to put down a solid layer of 72.044 "Dark Fleshtone," and then attempt to use its reddish hue to balance out super-thin layers of 72.004 "Elf Flesh" mixed with 72.003 "Pale Flesh." Alternately, there are a couple browns that I've had more luck with, but then why do most of these fleshtones exist? :/
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Jun 28, 2012 19:15
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Big Willy Style posted:
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Jun 28, 2012 19:19
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Dominion posted:Be careful with assembly line painting. It gets poo poo done but if you're anything like me it quickly saps your will to paint/live. I cannot stand to paint more than 3 or so models at once. Agree to disagree. When I've finished my first test model and can start on doing a squad at a time I really love to paint because it goes so much faster.
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Jun 28, 2012 19:44
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Not a viking posted:Agree to disagree. When I've finished my first test model and can start on doing a squad at a time I really love to paint because it goes so much faster. Yeah, certainly some people like it. But for me making myself paint that way to get armies out faster almost burned me out on painting altogether. I had to force myself to paint some stuff slower and one or two at a time to make it stop feeling like work and start feeling like something I did for fun.
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Jun 28, 2012 19:53
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I'd much rather spend a few weeks slowly painting a single model than a squad or a mass of squads. But drat does it feel good to finally get those 60+ models primed and get some color on them after a few years. Now I might actually play with my army. Also gently caress running out of paint with 12 models left to basecoat.
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Jun 28, 2012 19:58
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The Saddest Robot posted:I'd much rather spend a few weeks slowly painting a single model than a squad or a mass of squads. But drat does it feel good to finally get those 60+ models primed and get some color on them after a few years. Now I might actually play with my army. Oh man, I did a speed painted ork army. 120 odd models in a Week from start to finish. I ran out of Vomit Brown to do the bases when I only had about 15 models left. And it was discontinued at this point and no one had it stocked. I fudged it and just used one of the ochre coloured foundation paints but I was almost crying. I was awake for about 36 hours at this point and had to go play in a tournament in 2 hours.
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Jun 28, 2012 20:11
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Big Willy Style posted:Oh man, I did a speed painted ork army. 120 odd models in a Week from start to finish. I ran out of Vomit Brown to do the bases when I only had about 15 models left. And it was discontinued at this point and no one had it stocked. I fudged it and just used one of the ochre coloured foundation paints but I was almost crying. I was awake for about 36 hours at this point and had to go play in a tournament in 2 hours.  Did you even have a good time at the tournament? gently caress that.
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Jun 28, 2012 20:18
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S.J. posted:
Yeah I did actually. I work nights and am pretty good at staying awake when I need to. My housemate also came around at half time with a bong and some weed for me which helped a lot. I ended up going out 'til fairly late with the out of towners too.
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Jun 28, 2012 20:26
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Dominion posted:My suggestion would be to not worry about blending at this point. Master being able to put down an even smooth coat with no brushstrokes, then learn to shade with washes and highlight with drybrushing, then edge highlighting, especially for hard armored models. I am right there with you on not worrying about blending right now. I'm planning to get started with base, wash, drybrush and highlighting and that's it. Welp, gonna eat my dinner, put on some MiniWarGaming banter battle reports and get painting 
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Jun 28, 2012 22:14
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krushgroove posted:I am right there with you on not worrying about blending right now. I'm planning to get started with base, wash, drybrush and highlighting and that's it. If you're watching painting tutorials, I highly recommend Les Bursely of AwesomePaintJob. His youtube videos sometimes veer too heavily into airbrush work but when they don't he's very good and not terrible to listen to.
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Jun 28, 2012 22:17
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I used a high speed cutter 1mm thick to drill two holes in the figure. I smeared Vaseline on the hole in the vest and having applied some GS to the tomahawk pressed it into the hole securing it in place. I hope what will happen is that I can simply pull it out afterwards to have a snug fit so the ax can be cast separately. I'm going to do the same thing with the leg drop. Not so much worried about cast ability as I want maybe to have different stuff on there (for no good reason, really). After some shaving and sanding this'll be the base for the pistol on the leg drop:  Received some new friends in the mail! Clay Shaper bonanza! Got them for a super sweet price with shipping from eBay, They're fun as hell but I'll need to learn more on how to work with them.  Made some progress on the busts:    
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Jun 28, 2012 22:26
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Man, I finally managed to get down to my new local GWS, the guy that runs the place is a riot, really knows how to do his WAAAGH! In other news, a question to you who have stripped models: do you re-spray the primer on? Some of mine have a bit of the grey plastic showing, while others look like they've just been primed. e: I just don't want to risk losing any detail, is all.
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Jun 29, 2012 00:00
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ijyt posted:Man, I finally managed to get down to my new local GWS, the guy that runs the place is a riot, really knows how to do his WAAAGH!
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Jun 29, 2012 00:53
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Can someone recommend some good primer? I have a can of P3 White Primer and not only does it always come out watery, even after shaking for about a minute or two, but it doesn't seem to be holding paint very well. I've been painting a model and at times the paint's been flaking off all the way down to the plastic, even through the white primer.
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Jun 29, 2012 03:25
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I know plenty of great painters who say gently caress paying $15 a can, Krylon works just fine... but I'm a sucker for Army Painter's stuff, it goes on so nice.
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Jun 29, 2012 03:38
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Best, assuming you have an airbrush and aren't hairspray weathering: vallejo urethane airbrush primer. Best, from a can, price no object: Tamiya (fine) Surface Primer (ten bucks for a tiny can, but kicks rear end). Best, from a can, you aren't Scrooge McDuck/painting for GD: duplicolor sandable auto primer. Cheapest good primer in a can: Krylon flat black.
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Jun 29, 2012 03:45
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So, this month's oath is done. Incoming glamor shots!    close up of the power weapon:  Still needs a few touch-ups and to be sealed, and the bases are in the mail, but otherwise this bitch is done. I really wanted to do the whole Librarian Blue deal, and I used the same blue that I do for my other knights to get that effect, so hopefully it will tie into the rest of them on the board. In other news: Duplicolor Sandable Auto-Body Primer. Great stuff, but as Stabbington so helpfully pointed out, the finish isn't as good as Tamiya's Surface primer. Normally you can get that same kind of finish, but that requires sanding, which is a problem when dealing with highly detailed models. Gentlemen and Ladies, I have found the solution:  It's hard to tell, but that's Duplicolor black, and the coat is so thin and sleek that it's reflective under strong light. How was it done? By accident.  I primed this guy and a lot of stuff got trapped on it--random dust fuzz. So I tossed him into Simple Green for about a week. Afterwards, I took an electric toothbrush to it in an effort to get the primer off. I failed at doing that, but the results are absolutely worth the failure. I used a Rotodent brand toothbrush (has a spinning head, really really fine bristles), but I'm willing to bet you can replicate the effect with a lovely $10 rotating toothbrush if you wanted to try it out for yourself! Next test is to layer on the three-color primer and repeat the process and see how it goes.
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Jun 29, 2012 04:37
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stabbington posted:
Can I buy this at retail? If not, where's the best place to do so? EDIT: Went on the Tamiya website and found authorized dealers. I was a little confused earlier because searching on Google apparently it wasn't being sold for a while in California last year. Can any LA goons confirm that they've bought some nearby? unpurposed fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jun 29, 2012 |
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Jun 29, 2012 04:41
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A Stormwall and Stormpods:  Learned a lot about large-scale airbrush use and weathering techniques from this. Next time I paint something in that scale, I'm leaving it mostly disassembled. This one only got put together because I bought it at Lock and Load during its prerelease and wanted to use it right away. Used some new stuff for the base, too - rolled out a sheet of apoxie sculpt between a couple sheets of wax paper, carved some stuff in it, then broke it up and glued it to a torn up ikea trivet (great, cheap source of thick cork). Painted up really well.
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Jun 29, 2012 09:10
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That is fantastic. I love the dirt effect - is that sand or something finer just glued to the cork and base? Question for you all: bubbles. I get bubbles in the wet paint when painting things with lots of fine detail, like the holes and teeth/tongue on the head of a Genestealer. I'm not smashing the paint into the recesses with the bristles, I brush on the paint to get all the outer, non-recessed areas, then try to dab the paint into the harder to holes and lower areas. This is when the bubbles start to appear. I can pop the bubbles by blowing on the model, but it's annoying and happens quite a lot. Is the paint too thin? I'm using a wet palette (which is awesome, btw) so maybe that's thinning the paint just a bit? I'm using Vallejo, in case that matters. I also have a question about coverage: I used grey primer and I have to put two coats of bone white on the larger areas. Basically I paint all the large areas, then the small areas, then go over the large areas again, brushing at 90 degrees to the brushstrokes of the first layer. Is this a thing with the paint brand or it being too thin? I'm just not sure if these are completely related issues.
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Jun 29, 2012 09:50
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krushgroove posted:That is fantastic. I love the dirt effect - is that sand or something finer just glued to the cork and base? quote:Question for you all: bubbles. I get bubbles in the wet paint when painting things with lots of fine detail, like the holes and teeth/tongue on the head of a Genestealer. I'm not smashing the paint into the recesses with the bristles, I brush on the paint to get all the outer, non-recessed areas, then try to dab the paint into the harder to holes and lower areas. This is when the bubbles start to appear. I can pop the bubbles by blowing on the model, but it's annoying and happens quite a lot. Is the paint too thin? I'm using a wet palette (which is awesome, btw) so maybe that's thinning the paint just a bit? I'm using Vallejo, in case that matters. quote:I also have a question about coverage: I used grey primer and I have to put two coats of bone white on the larger areas. Basically I paint all the large areas, then the small areas, then go over the large areas again, brushing at 90 degrees to the brushstrokes of the first layer. Is this a thing with the paint brand or it being too thin?
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Jun 29, 2012 11:01
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Great tips, thanks - pigment, etc., is definitely something I'd like to work with down the road.stabbington posted:Some paint just does this, but it's also a consistency thing. Try adding a bit of flow improver to your water (10:1 water to flow aid) to decrease the surface tension of your paint. I'm assuming you mean this for when you're dropping paint onto the back of a CD. Will this work with a wet palette at all?
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Jun 29, 2012 11:35
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stabbington posted:rolled out a sheet of apoxie sculpt between a couple sheets of wax paper, carved some stuff in it, then broke it up and glued it to a torn up ikea trivet (great, cheap source of thick cork). I was wondering what you did to get that. I was thinking thin slate, and if that were the case, I was going to wish you the best of luck about that whole mess not fracturing apart on you.
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Jun 29, 2012 12:22
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Feeple posted:when you strip, you strip it all. Re primering is for the best. I think brown Dettol didn't get the memo, because after 6 months in a tub the primer didn't get stripped. I guess it's stained or something. Either way, I'll see how the Halfords grey primer route goes. Cheers.
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Jun 29, 2012 14:03
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ijyt posted:I think brown Dettol didn't get the memo, because after 6 months in a tub the primer didn't get stripped. I guess it's stained or something. Depending on the primer, some of them never seem to come off. Black primer seems to be the most frequent culprit.
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Jun 29, 2012 15:26
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ijyt posted:I think brown Dettol didn't get the memo, because after 6 months in a tub the primer didn't get stripped. I guess it's stained or something. How long do you let the models soak in Dettol normally? Do you dilute it all? I can't get Simple Green in the UK at all and I have read that Dettol does the trick.
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Jun 29, 2012 15:44
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My airbrush is being a bit of a pain in the rear end and is spitting water all over the place lately, making me think I need an in-line moisture trap (even though the compressor has a trap already). Are there any brands I should be looking for, or will some cheapo £5 thing do the trick?
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Jun 29, 2012 16:31
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krushgroove posted:How long do you let the models soak in Dettol normally? Do you dilute it all? I can't get Simple Green in the UK at all and I have read that Dettol does the trick. You can see results after about 20 minutes, but I'd recommend letting plastic miniatures soak for 24-48 hours, depending on how much paint is on them (I only left them in that long because I left for University). Metal models can be stripped in about 4 hours and a bit of scrubbing with a toothbrush and toothpick. When you rinse models, don't do what I did and rinse them with water. Instead, rinse them with clean dettol otherwise you get a gloopy mess. You'll want to bathe them in warm soapy water though after you're done stripping to make sure that new primer sticks to the model. It can be either diluted or left neat, dilute it if you want to save some money, about 1:1 is fine. But if you don't dilute it it's slightly easier to re-use if you drain it and get rid of any gunk floating around. Make sure to buy the brown dettol, it stinks to high heaven but the green dettol won't do poo poo to paint.
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Jun 29, 2012 16:45
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Stabbington, that is brilliant. I would have put more shadows and soot on the miniguns in the shoulders, but that's just me. I guess that the maintenance crews will keep the weapons and works shiny and spotless, but can't get the paint or don't bother with the big armour pieces because they will be replaced at every minor overhaul anyways. Also can anyone confirm that Windex will react just enough with Vallejo paints to cause issues? I know that Tamiya needs their own thinner only. Also what recommendations do people have for clearcoat(gloss and flat) brands that can be airbrushed?
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Jun 29, 2012 17:52
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krushgroove posted:Great tips, thanks - pigment, etc., is definitely something I'd like to work with down the road. Yes. When you start using a wet palette, you'll have to experiment with how much you thin, since it's a touch different than using a dry palette, but all the same additives and techniques work on either. My brand of flow improver (Golden, I think) is prone to bubbling when it gets shaken or agitated, so sometimes i have to let the paint sit in the palette for 5 mins or so to settle out. You may also have too much paint on your brush - try dabbing some more off before you put brush to model.
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Jun 29, 2012 17:56
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Thanks a bunch I have a lot of experimenting and trial & error to work through. ijyt - thanks for the write-up on using Dettol! I haven't found anywhere else online that explains that, and I have a ton of used/old models to get some practice on.
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Jun 29, 2012 20:14
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Duders, anyone have any good painting recipes for realistic sand/desert rock? A lot of people just seem to stick sand on and call it a day.
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Jun 29, 2012 20:19
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Flipswitch posted:Duders, anyone have any good painting recipes for realistic sand/desert rock? A lot of people just seem to stick sand on and call it a day.   I prefer a basalt looking desert base, because it gives nice contrast. Duplicolor Sandable Hot Rod Grey Primer, then Airbrushed VGC Desert Yellow, drybrushed with Grey/Titanium White (Grey/Bleached Bone).
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Jun 29, 2012 20:25
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Flipswitch posted:Duders, anyone have any good painting recipes for realistic sand/desert rock? A lot of people just seem to stick sand on and call it a day. I do a sort of sandstone look for my ruined temple bases. Not quite deserty but similar sand color. Dheneb Stone (accept no substitutes but if you REALLY need to you can use VGC Heavy Warmgrey), Gryphonne Sepia (or whatever it is now), drybrush with bleached bone (or tyrant skull or whatever)
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Jun 29, 2012 20:29
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Cooee!      
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Jun 29, 2012 21:20
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So with 6th hitting tonight, I am probably busting out my CSM from ages ago, and although the infantry models still look good, all my tanks look like rear end. I need to strip them all since I did a good three different color schemes over the years and have accumulated a fairly large layer of paint on them. I am assuming simple green is still the way to go, but for large vehicles and paint that's been on for years, will that do enough to strip it? And should I use something more heavy duty than a tooth brush to scrape?
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Jun 29, 2012 22:11
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I've seen people simple green dunk tanks off of ebay with layers upon layers of paint on them with good results.
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Jun 29, 2012 22:22
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How do I model jetflame? Rick, one of the Battletech players found a rule ambiguity and tried to use it in a tournament. Going prone while jump jetting. We put it to the devs and they made an errata. So I'm modelling a mech jump jetting its belly into the dirt. I call it Rick Ruled.
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Jun 30, 2012 00:42
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