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That's probably 15 bucks more than you should be spending (each) but I haven't bought any in a while. Make sure the cap is 1 3/16" before you order those, else you'll end up with the wrong joints. If your jeep is a 96 or later (sorry, forgot what you have) they're the right ones unless someone replaced an axle at some point - it's always best to just check both sides before buying.
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Jun 28, 2012 22:43
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Also can anyone recommend a good soft top for around town rain prevention that wont run my wallet into the ground? Just don't want to have to gently caress with the hard top every time it's a nice day 
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Jun 28, 2012 22:50
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:Been working on my xj. How did you do this? Brand new... or just some adhesive?
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Jun 28, 2012 22:57
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Digital_Jesus posted:Also can anyone recommend a good soft top for around town rain prevention that wont run my wallet into the ground? The Trektop NX is about half the price of the Supertop NX, if you can find it in stock. You can check craigslist and see if anyone's selling their factory hardware, too.
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Jun 28, 2012 23:46
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How did you do this? Brand new... or just some adhesive? http://www.wlsheadliners.com/tutorials/cherokee/ Really straight forward. Unscrew a bunch of screws around the trim, pull the headliner out through the back hatch, scrub and vacuum it. Then use spray glue and press on the new liner. Slide it back in, replace screws, and you're done. I ordered from them too. It was about $60.
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Jun 29, 2012 00:47
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kastein posted:July 4th is coming up, sooooooooooooo... Nice. You gonna drive that in a local 4th parade?
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Jun 29, 2012 03:25
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:http://www.wlsheadliners.com/tutorials/cherokee/ Awesome, I need to do this on my Range Rover, and I wanted to see how successful people are at doing it.
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Jun 29, 2012 03:33
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:caliper off Turn the cinder box so the hole is vertical and support the caliper instead of letting it dangle by the rubber line next time.
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Jun 29, 2012 05:09
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Turn the cinder box so the hole is vertical and support the caliper instead of letting it dangle by the rubber line next time. Haha, you assume I know what a cinder box is!
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Jun 29, 2012 06:04
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Will LT 285 70 R17s be too much for a 3.21 6 speed Manual JK? I plan on re-gearing at some point but not any time soon. I want to know if these wheels will be serviceable in the meantime, without bogging the hell out of it.
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Jun 29, 2012 11:35
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Hey that pixeldecals place is pretty awesome. $7 for the set of blank button stickers and they don't even charge to ship it. Sweet.
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Jun 29, 2012 12:42
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I am going to put that 2.5L low output sticker on my 2.5L non-turbo subaru race car.
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Jun 29, 2012 13:10
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Digital_Jesus posted:Hey that pixeldecals place is pretty awesome. $7 for the set of blank button stickers and they don't even charge to ship it. Sweet. Yeah I just ordered the Jeep Pinup decal. I cant wait any longer for it.
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Jun 29, 2012 20:07
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Digital_Jesus posted:Also can anyone recommend a good soft top for around town rain prevention that wont run my wallet into the ground? On Amazon or eBay you can get smittybily replacement tops for around $250. I've heard good enough things about them to not spend $500+ on something else. I have one to put on this weekend, I'll let you know how the quality seems.
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Jun 29, 2012 21:29
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Astonishing Wang posted:On Amazon or eBay you can get smittybily replacement tops for around $250. I've heard good enough things about them to not spend $500+ on something else. I have one to put on this weekend, I'll let you know how the quality seems. If I didnt have kid crusher bars, I would be all over getting a hardwareless top.
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Jun 29, 2012 22:42
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So I'm in the market for a used TJ. This will be my first foray into the world of jeeps. Any suggestions on a year? Are there many big differences between the early and later TJ's? And, if it matters, I'm leaning towards just a sport and work on it/upgrade it myself unless I can find an awesome deal on a Rubicon.
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Jun 30, 2012 00:10
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Bought a 1993 Grand Cherokee. My wallet hates me.
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Jun 30, 2012 00:10
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Early or late build? 4.0 or 5.2? If you got a 4.0 early 93 there is a chance you have an AW4 transmission, which is the best auto they ever put in the ZJ IMO...
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Jun 30, 2012 00:28
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kastein posted:Early or late build? 4.0 or 5.2? If you got a 4.0 early 93 there is a chance you have an AW4 transmission, which is the best auto they ever put in the ZJ IMO...
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Jun 30, 2012 00:31
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commissargribb posted:If I didnt have kid crusher bars, I would be all over getting a hardwareless top. Sorry, the one I was talking about is the top only, you need to have the factory hardware installed :/
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Jun 30, 2012 00:54
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Going to look at a 1961 CJ5 tomorrow:  Seller claims it's in good shape but who knows what that means. For a weekend toy it looks like a (cheap) good time - anything in particular I should look for? It's a 4cyl.
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Jun 30, 2012 06:35
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ethanol posted:Well it was 3 inches but I put in bilstein 5100 shocks two weeks ago and unless my imagination is loving with me, my jeep appears to be an inch or two lower now. Which had been perplexing me. Do you think this is related? Yeah, that's normal with a lift. You can compensate for that with an adjustable track bar or a track bar drop. If you use a longer track bar, try to adjust the drag link by the same difference in track bar length; likewise, if you use a track bar drop, you should use a drop pitman arm to compensate for bump-steer.
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Jun 30, 2012 07:29
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I don't understand why the front is so far off. I just had the thing aligned last week. Before that I did swap the axles, and put new shocks on. But I'm pretty sure it was put on straight. Then I had it aligned. I didn't notice this for a good week after a wheel alignment. It seems either the alignment shop missed this or didn't feel like informing me. I really think I would have noticed it was like that right after the alignment though which leads me to believe it took a few weeks to get that way. How is this possible? As far as I know, I did not alter the lift!
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Jun 30, 2012 16:41
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That's not something that can be aligned on a factory track bar, man. They're a solid steel bar with a bushing sleeve at one end and a balljoint/TRE at the other, no way to adjust it. Via simple trigonometry you can see that when you lift the vehicle, the effective "ground length" of the track bar will be reduced, dragging the axle over toward the driver side a bit. They aligned it I'm sure, which on a TJ just means setting the caster using the cam bolts in the LCAs, the toe using the tie rod, the steering wheel center using the drag link, then rechecking to make sure the drag link change didn't affect the toe setting (since they're somewhat inter-related.) This diagram shows an adjustable track bar - I've never seen one from the factory, so it's probably an aftermarket.
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Jun 30, 2012 17:15
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kastein posted:That's not something that can be aligned on a factory track bar, man. They're a solid steel bar with a bushing sleeve at one end and a balljoint/TRE at the other, no way to adjust it. Via simple trigonometry you can see that when you lift the vehicle, the effective "ground length" of the track bar will be reduced, dragging the axle over toward the driver side a bit. They aligned it I'm sure, which on a TJ just means setting the caster using the cam bolts in the LCAs, the toe using the tie rod, the steering wheel center using the drag link, then rechecking to make sure the drag link change didn't affect the toe setting (since they're somewhat inter-related.) Since he has JKS quick disconnects, it's probably aftermarket.
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Jun 30, 2012 17:32
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Tremek posted:Going to look at a 1961 CJ5 tomorrow: Welp, that was an experience. It was in decent shape but jesus gently caress that is not a vehicle for even casual or strictly home-to-trails use on modern roads of any kind. Good learning experience though, thinking a TJ or an XJ is more my speed.
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Jun 30, 2012 18:43
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WELP.  Not sure when this happened.
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Jul 1, 2012 02:49
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jcary1404 posted:So I'm in the market for a used TJ. This will be my first foray into the world of jeeps. Any suggestions on a year? Are there many big differences between the early and later TJ's? And, if it matters, I'm leaning towards just a sport and work on it/upgrade it myself unless I can find an awesome deal on a Rubicon. Stay away from '05 and '06. Long story short, they have a severely defective part that may or may not cause thousands of dollars of damage and dealer sourced and installed replacements may or may not also self detonate later on.
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Jul 1, 2012 03:49
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grnberet2b posted:Stay away from '05 and '06. Long story short, they have a severely defective part that may or may not cause thousands of dollars of damage and dealer sourced and installed replacements may or may not also self detonate later on. Avoid the 2000 TJ's also, unless you can verify that the head is not from casting 0331.
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Jul 1, 2012 04:39
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Wtf? Never seen that happen. Is the nut still on the mount or did it come off? Did the eye break off the shock? I can't quite tell what is going on there. I got an engine stand yesterday so I can start reassembling the 4.0 for my generator project soon.
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Jul 1, 2012 15:16
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kastein posted:Wtf? Never seen that happen. Is the nut still on the mount or did it come off? Did the eye break off the shock? I can't quite tell what is going on there. A 4.0 as a generator? Talk about the most ineffective generator ever. Why not a Turbo 4 cylinder? Even better, a turbo 4 cylinder diesel.
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Jul 1, 2012 15:38
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kastein posted:Wtf? Never seen that happen. Is the nut still on the mount or did it come off? Did the eye break off the shock? I can't quite tell what is going on there. The nut and everything is still firmly attached to the mount. The mount broke free from the frame and fell off. Gonna need another mount I'm guessing.  http://www.quadratec.com/products/56000_0002.htm Tremek posted:Welp, that was an experience. It was in decent shape but jesus gently caress that is not a vehicle for even casual or strictly home-to-trails use on modern roads of any kind. Good learning experience though, thinking a TJ or an XJ is more my speed. I would still DD the hell out of that during the summer. Unless he did something like weld the rear diff. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jul 1, 2012 |
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Jul 1, 2012 15:50
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Steiler Drep posted:A 4.0 as a generator? Talk about the most ineffective generator ever. Why not a Turbo 4 cylinder? Even better, a turbo 4 cylinder diesel. Yes, and I have the motor already, it cost me nothing, I have 3 vehicles to pull spare parts off of, I can diagnose and repair it in my sleep, and it'll run for maybe 5 hours a year average. It will also heat the house (power usually goes out in winter in my area.)
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Jul 1, 2012 16:31
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^^Oh then I guess it's a sound decision. Are you keeping the injection or carbureting it?commissargribb posted:I would still DD the hell out of that during the summer. Unless he did something like weld the rear diff. I've been into the Jeep community for about 3-4 years and have seen people weld their diffs. Is the objective just to permanently lock their diffs?
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Jul 1, 2012 16:33
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Keeping the FI. I have a full 94 xj harness I will be cutting up and customizing.
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Jul 1, 2012 16:42
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Steiler Drep posted:^^Oh then I guess it's a sound decision. Are you keeping the injection or carbureting it? Steiler Drep posted:I've been into the Jeep community for about 3-4 years and have seen people weld their diffs. Is the objective just to permanently lock their diffs? basically.
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Jul 1, 2012 17:07
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What I wouldn't give to drop a 4.0 into the volvo. My Cherokee is starting to develop a death wobble. this is unpleasant. going to try replacing the steering stabilizer first, but if that doesn't fix it, anyone know where to look first?
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Jul 1, 2012 17:12
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Doccers posted:What I wouldn't give to drop a 4.0 into the volvo. A steering stabilizer wont fix death wobble. If anything it might make it less noticeable. Why would you want to put a 4.0 in the Volvo? Wouldn't you rather a small diesel?
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Jul 1, 2012 17:15
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Doccers posted:What I wouldn't give to drop a 4.0 into the volvo. My wrangler sat for 12 months while I was deployed and had flat spots on the tires. Mechanic said they were shaped "like footballs". e: speeling no good
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Jul 1, 2012 17:45
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piss boner posted:My wrangler sat for 12 months while I was deployed and had flat spots on the tires. Mechanic said they were shaped "like footballs". My wrangler essentially sat for 2 years at my parents' house while I was active duty and somehow the tires managed to go for another 3 years after I moved back and drove them semi-regularly.
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Jul 1, 2012 17:57
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