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Saga posted:What I did for the horn for my TY (and all that's required over here for an MOT) was a small 12v battery under a side panel, 12v horn and a switch mounted to the bars, plus some cable routed with the rest of the loom. Imagine you could do the same with lights, albeit not sure how long those would last, but good enough if it's just for purely theoretical road legality. I run a TrailTech Vapor on my scooter, it's rad and I love it. Speedo, CHT, tach, hours, odo, trip, records high MPH/RPM/CHT reached. Runs off an internal battery if you don't have 12v to hook it up to, though hooking it up to 12v gets you a brighter backlight. I had to get clever with mounting since I don't have handlebars, but that shouldn't be a problem on the Bultaco. And it's survived almost a year and a half of being outside in Seattle without issue, in case you had weather concerns. EvilCrayon since you asked about turn signals, you can get LED-compatible turn signal flashers here (warning: lovely website) and elsewhere for <$15.
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Jun 26, 2012 17:06
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clutchpuck posted:Non-pedantic input: from what you describe it sounds like it was turning over slowly on a weak battery. Yeah that's what I figured (hoped). Now I just need to figure out which trickle charger to get: This: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top ? Or this for $2 more: http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-200A-Speedcharge-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B000H90XDS ? Or maybe just get the regular Battery Tender for $40. Lanky_Nibz fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 00:06
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Boru posted:Yeah that's what I figured (hoped). Now I just need to figure out which trickle charger to get: This: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top ? I have a couple of the Junior models. They work great. The only difference between the bigger one and the junior is how long it takes to bring a battery up to charge - naturally the larger one will take less time, but overnight is enough time for either one to do its magic.
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Jun 27, 2012 00:12
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nsaP posted:That's a bummer. On the plus side, there could have been a car crossing and you might have been posting in the crash thread. The stop sign was there for an abandoned rail system that doesn't get used (at least that I have seen). Never the less, I get the point. Sagebrush posted:Not to be picky, but they usually design these things so that if you're going the speed limit you have plenty of warning and room to stop in time. Were you speeding? Wasn't paying attention to the spedometer, but not out of the realm of possibility. I wasn't saying that it wasn't avoidable, just simply stating. Obviously I wasn't paying enough attention because I would venture to guess there was a sign earlier that said there was a stop sign coming up. Just a crappy situation and I was venting.
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Jun 27, 2012 01:41
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savesthedayrocks posted:Wasn't paying attention to the spedometer, but not out of the realm of possibility. Happens to all of us at some point. I did an unintentional stoppie at a 4-way stop with a cop across the intersection. Normally I would have looked both ways and rolled the intersection if nobody was there, but there was a cop so I panicked. He gave me the "I'm watching you" fingers/eyes pantomime and I took it super easy for the two blocks left until home.
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Jun 27, 2012 02:07
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Boru posted:Yeah that's what I figured (hoped). Now I just need to figure out which trickle charger to get: This: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top ? I got the 12v 0.75a Junior from recommendations here. The logic on the lower amperage was that the slower a battery charges, the more stable the process is. The faster you charge it the more damaging the charging process can be. I figured that if I had ~4 hours available to charge a battery, I'd probably have ~8 hours. Make sure you get the right voltage, if your battery's 12v then the 6v charger that you linked won't cut it (it'll hit around 6.8 to 7v and then flip over to Float mode), and if you use a 12v charger on a 6v battery it'll never go to Float and thus will cook the battery. As far as I know, when clutchpuck talks about the bigger and smaller models he's talking about the 1.5a models vs the 0.75a models. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 13:42
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Splizwarf posted:I got the 12v 0.75a Junior from recommendations here. The logic on the lower amperage was that the slower a battery charges, the more stable the process is. The faster you charge it the more damaging the charging process can be. I figured that if I had ~4 hours available to charge a battery, I'd probably have ~8 hours. On the topic of battery chargers, I'd like to give a glowing recommendation to the Genius G3500. That thing is awesome. Not only is is good for 12 or 6v motorcycle batteries, but it can also be used on a car battery. Also, the CB125 2-week build-a-thon was a fail. I got it all buttoned up and ready to go and it wouldn't start. For some reason I have no/low compression. I wish I had gone to bed last night like a normal person instead of staying up putting the bike together. I even wrapped the pipes and now I'm covered in fiberglass. Last night/this am was one giant (itchy) disappointment.
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Jun 27, 2012 14:39
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:On the topic of battery chargers, I'd like to give a glowing recommendation to the Genius G3500. That thing is awesome. Not only is is good for 12 or 6v motorcycle batteries, but it can also be used on a car battery. I had this happen to me during my first shot at a bike restoration, a CB200. My valves were adjusted so I assumed bad rings, on to kijiji it went  . I'm interested to hear what it ends up being though.
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Jun 27, 2012 16:19
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:On the topic of battery chargers, I'd like to give a glowing recommendation to the Genius G3500. That thing is awesome. Not only is is good for 12 or 6v motorcycle batteries, but it can also be used on a car battery. When I had bad compression on a fresh top-end, the cam chain had slipped a tooth and hosed up the timing. Thankfully, none of my valves bent, so I was able to go back in and set the cam timing. Protip: don't turn the engine without the cam chain tensioner in place and activated. 
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Jun 27, 2012 16:42
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Tamir Lenk posted:When I had bad compression on a fresh top-end, the cam chain had slipped a tooth and hosed up the timing. Thankfully, none of my valves bent, so I was able to go back in and set the cam timing. Duly noted and thanks. I already checked the timing though and it's still spot-on. I'm anxious to discover what is causing this terrible PSI loss... 
GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 19:03
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Removed the massive stock airbox and replaced it with a K&N universal filter. Holy intake noise Batman!  Actually louder than my (stock) exhaust now  More details of what I'm up to in the Supermotard thread.
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Jun 27, 2012 19:16
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Replacing the fork oil on my Bandit, stripped the right hand side clamp bolt. First stripped bolt on this bike, a bit overdue really. This is all after I had to drop the motor for a fix. Sidebar: fork oil is kinda smelly 
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Jun 28, 2012 02:20
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Attached a cigarette adapter to the battery tender lead, so I can power my GPS. Also put the Kriega tank thing on there so I can put on a tankbag. Also dropped a goddamned metal grommet down between the frame and the airbox and spent two hours trying to fish the fucker out before giving up. It'd be easy to get out if I pulled the airbox, but that's an hours-long ordeal that involves basically disconnecting everything electrical from the engine, and I'm not doing that right before a big trip. gently caress Triumph and their love affair with little metal grommets and shims everywhere.
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Jun 28, 2012 02:52
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Snowdens Secret posted:Attached a cigarette adapter to the battery tender lead, so I can power my GPS. Also put the Kriega tank thing on there so I can put on a tankbag. You can pick up an extendable magnet wand for pretty cheap. Has saved me a bunch of times. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-magnetic-pick-up-tool/p-00941310000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6
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Jun 28, 2012 16:02
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Four dollars?!@?? What a ripoff! I merely taped a rare-earth magnet to the end of a 3/16" dowel and paid only a third what you did 
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Jun 28, 2012 18:09
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Sagebrush posted:Four dollars?!@?? What a ripoff! I merely taped a rare-earth magnet to the end of a 3/16" dowel and paid only a third what you did I harvest them from busted hard drives, scrap the boards for gold, and save the platters for that dude on here that makes roses. but wait... why the HELL would you need to use tape? Those things are strong as hell. It's already an effort to get it off without the tape. I use them to hold wrenches to my bike while I work. I forgot to take them off one time and even after a spirited ride down a bombed out road they didn't budge.
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Jun 28, 2012 19:50
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Well, it was a wooden dowel. (I call metal dowels "rods")
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Jun 28, 2012 19:55
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Sagebrush posted:Well, it was a wooden dowel. Ah gotcha. I use them to magnetize screwdrivers when installing screws. I haven't dropped one since and it makes those hard to reach places sooooo much easier.
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Jun 28, 2012 20:08
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Today as I was moving the bike out of the garage, I noticed that the rear brake was binding! Puzzled, I poked around at it for a while and eventually discovered that the torque arm had loosened itself from the drum, and the slack had allowed the shoe carrier plate to rotate about 1/16", engaging the brake. Whoops. It must have just loosened itself up the last time I rode the bike, because there weren't any problems before then. Either the cotter pin on the stud fell out somehow, or (more likely) I forgot to put one in in the first place, because there wasn't one there. Good thing I caught it before something really bad happened. Anyway, one new stainless cotter pin and some loctite later and the rear brake is working normally again. I also duct-taped my phone to the tachometer and rode around with a GPS speedometer running to see how accurate the bike's speedo is. Turns out it reads almost exactly 10% slower than I'm actually going -- 40 indicated is 36 real mph. I hear that's normal for old UJMs?
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Jun 29, 2012 05:26
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It's normal for every tach to read high. It's a legal thing.
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Jun 29, 2012 10:23
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Ordered over £800 ($1200) in parts for the 690's 18,000mi service and upgrade extravaganza. New full clutch kit New cam chain and guides Fork seals and dust boots Model specific service tools New white/black 2010 model plastics all round SC-Project Exhaust K&N universal pod filter (already arrived and fitted) USB ODB2 and KTM cable adapter
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Jun 29, 2012 11:21
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Did you try cleaning the fork seals first? http://sealmate.net/
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Jun 29, 2012 14:20
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n8r posted:Did you try cleaning the fork seals first? They're not leaking, but the dust boots are toast (all brittle and crumbly) and to replace them I have to tear down the whole fork anyway, so I may as well throw some new seals in while I'm at it, they're not expensive and I can always keep the old ones as spares.
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Jun 29, 2012 14:45
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The R is getting some goodies this week and I have terrible pics to prove it.  Tank is off, wires are run roughly where they need to be, catalyzer is off. Tomorrow the header and y-pipe go in to get ceramic coated black. While those are away, probably tomorrow, the whole bike is going to be ultra-cleaned under the seat and tank. We're talking toothbrush, pipe cleaners, and simple green. The previous owner would be horrified with how dirty it is. This is right after we bought the bike, at 24,000ish miles:  Next up for wrenching: the DT needs new rings and a hone. Hopefully I don't need to bore it and put in a new piston. Hopefully the conrod bearing is a-ok. I dread having to split the case on it, not because it'll be a big job but because I am unsure about little-random-parts availability. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Jun 29, 2012 |
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Jun 29, 2012 17:03
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Powder coat job on the girlfriend's EX500 is finally done! Took a month, but I only had to pay for the parts to be blasted so whatever. If I had known I was going to have that long, I probably would have gotten the rims off and had those done as well, but oh well. She certainly won't be riding during the winter, so I can always do it then. Anyway enjoy some pictures! The paint is Prismatic Powders Chameleon Violet.         The paint used is actually a clear coat with the metallic built in, sprayed over a semi-gloss black. We toyed around with the idea of shooting it over a white, but the difference was night and day. I'm really happy with how it came out, not to mention somewhat jealous that my girl's tank looks sweeter than mine. The pictures really don't do it justice, the range of color is amazing. If you stand on the side facing the sun (first pic) the metallic goes orange and even a bit yellow, then from orange to pink to purple to violet to blue. Unfortunately the only paint in Prismatic's chameleon line that doesn't have a high degree of pink is the Chameleon Emerald, and I'm not into green at all, so we are trying to think of something clever to do with mine. Leaning towards perhaps a silver vein with candy red topcoat, which comes out sort of looking like magma and is loving awesome.
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Jun 30, 2012 16:44
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Sagebrush posted:Today as I was moving the bike out of the garage, I noticed that the rear brake was binding! Puzzled, I poked around at it for a while and eventually discovered that the torque arm had loosened itself from the drum, and the slack had allowed the shoe carrier plate to rotate about 1/16", engaging the brake. Whoops. It must have just loosened itself up the last time I rode the bike, because there weren't any problems before then. Either the cotter pin on the stud fell out somehow, or (more likely) I forgot to put one in in the first place, because there wasn't one there. Good thing I caught it before something really bad happened. My '73 350f reads "almost exactly" 10% above actual speed as well. The 69(?)-74 Honda gauge clusters were all the same and had the exact same speed difference. I'm assuming this is not the case for all UJM's because in every old review of that era CB bikes the testers whine constantly about the 10% optimistic speedo. (Seems moto journalists have never changed)
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Jun 30, 2012 18:12
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Mine too. Accurately 10% across the entire range. Not bad for such simple technology.
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Jun 30, 2012 18:56
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Marauderthirty, that looks like a galaxy, really cool.
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Jul 1, 2012 00:04
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clutchpuck posted:While those are away, probably tomorrow, the whole bike is going to be ultra-cleaned under the seat and tank. We're talking toothbrush, pipe cleaners, and simple green.  Bloody Queef posted:My '73 350f reads "almost exactly" 10% above actual speed as well. The 69(?)-74 Honda gauge clusters were all the same and had the exact same speed difference. I'm assuming this is not the case for all UJM's because in every old review of that era CB bikes the testers whine constantly about the 10% optimistic speedo. (Seems moto journalists have never changed)
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Jul 1, 2012 00:46
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Took care of my headlight today. Before:  800 grit:  3000 grit:  Rubbing Compound:  There's definitely some cloudiness on the inside of the lens, but it's a decent improvement over before. Weather permitting, I'll flush and remove the front brake line tomorrow.
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Jul 2, 2012 02:58
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Rode it. It's been parked for a month with a nearly empty tank. Aired up the tires. Checked the oil, brakes, and lights. Good to go. Tried to crank, but it wouldn't turn over. Tank to "pri" for 10 seconds, then started up. Rode it around for a while to get the battery charged, put new gas in. How can people have problems with bikes that have only been sitting for a few days?
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Jul 2, 2012 03:41
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Rode it. PRI? Sup Suzuki buddie?
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Jul 2, 2012 17:13
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For the 4th of July I dewinterized a bike made by the greatest country in the world: Italy! Starter hesitated and stopped for the first second or so of hitting the button, had to gently caress with the choke to get it to fire. So it runs just like it did last year. A well-tuned Ducati. Viva L'Italia!
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Jul 4, 2012 19:43
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Since I'm waiting for new (non broke) mirrors, I decided to put on fresh OEM grips. Throttle was a bit fiddly, but 20 minutes well spent.
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Jul 6, 2012 03:48
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^^What did you use to fix them in place? I have some grips to put on and plan on using hairspray if anyone has experience with that.
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Jul 6, 2012 08:50
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Legerdemain posted:^^What did you use to fix them in place? I have some grips to put on and plan on using hairspray if anyone has experience with that. The throttle grip came glued to another trottle tube, and I had a tube if grip stick for the left hand grip.
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Jul 6, 2012 14:02
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Legerdemain posted:I have some grips to put on and plan on using hairspray if anyone has experience with that. Worked fine for me. When it's wet it's a lube, when it's dry it's a glue.
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Jul 6, 2012 16:10
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Stared longingly at it because it just won't stop loving raining*. Seriously this must be about the fifth day of torrential rain, I'm glad I live at the top of a hill *This post sponsored by the "It's grim oop North" society.
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Jul 6, 2012 17:16
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Stared longingly at it because it just won't stop loving raining*. It's not just the north, it extends all the way down across the channel I've had more call for my goretex over trousers in June than I did in December... Edit: and I have so much to do tomorrow... 
ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jul 6, 2012 |
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Jul 6, 2012 17:22
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Legerdemain posted:^^What did you use to fix them in place? I have some grips to put on and plan on using hairspray if anyone has experience with that. I use Gorilla Super Glue (not regular Gorilla glue) Works like a champion. Just dont plan on changing them again if they are metal. But I make my grips out of leather so... easy to cut off.
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Jul 6, 2012 19:06
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