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I've looked at some other Perry boxes and the ones I've found seem to be much higher quality and more expensive than the ones I have. I remember buying these a few years ago for about $15-$20 a box (2 boxes) but they Perry ones are much more expensive. Any idea what scale these guys are? EDIT - nevermind I stumbled on Woodrow's Mini Site and found everything I need. Looks like they are 1/72 Streletz figs and there are a ton like them. Unzip and Attack fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Jun 29, 2012 |
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Jun 29, 2012 17:37
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| # ? May 12, 2024 04:46 |
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Crossposting from the oath thread, I'm making progress on the 15mm DBA samurai army commission. But I do hate taking photos of tiny miniatures, these are blurry as all hell despite being the result of some 50 shots.
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Jun 30, 2012 20:48
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lilljonas posted:Tiny awesome samurai Daaamn. Stunning work. Manufacturer?
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Jun 30, 2012 22:32
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You know, things were looking better for my LGS, especially now that they've gotten Tank Aces out of their system. But then this happened today during a FoW MW battle: moves russian tank, fires at my Italians: I need 6's to hit. : but you have Hen and Chicks, so you can't actually make that shot. : that's the new rules. This is a v2 army so we use v2 rules. : oh, okay, you're totaly right. I forgot. : um, no you don't. You use the new rules. : Only for the new books. You use the old rules for old books. : Battlefront actually said you use the new books. : they only said that because they're too lazy to rewrite their books or update the points. : It also makes the British suck because everyone else gets a rule that was exclusive to only one unit in the British arsenal that I rarely used. : this is what we did last week when you weren't here and what we did for the Tank Aces campaign you weren't here for. : That's not how it's done. You don't cherry pick rules. : well, that's how we did it, and unless they update the points values in all the old books that's how we should do it.Somehow he doesn't see the fallacy of this argument, and somehow this whole "using the old rules for old armies" only applies to Flames of War, and not to, say, 40k. If I knew he was going to pull this crap I wouldn't have played against him, but my Italian tanks tabled his rear end anyways (with some help from my teammate's Germans). Seriously need to find a new store, but this is the only one within reasonable driving distance...
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Jul 1, 2012 02:51
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You need to start just packing up your mans and going home when they pull this retarded poo poo.
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Jul 1, 2012 04:27
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Arquinsiel posted:You need to start just packing up your mans and going home when they pull this retarded poo poo. This, take your ball and go home and play something single player.
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Jul 1, 2012 04:55
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Unzip and Attack posted:I've looked at some other Perry boxes and the ones I've found seem to be much higher quality and more expensive than the ones I have. I remember buying these a few years ago for about $15-$20 a box (2 boxes) but they Perry ones are much more expensive. Warning: Streletz is the most mixed of bags.
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Jul 1, 2012 05:32
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R.S. Gumby posted:Daaamn. Stunning work. Manufacturer? Thanks! They're from Peter Pig. The reason I put so much effort into a commission job is that I find them to be very well made and simply fun to paint, so I don't find it to be a chore at all. I'm even considering buying some myself, even if I already have 1/72, 6mm and 28mm samurai waiting to get painted. The 1/72 stuff is the new Zvezda line, to go with their Samurai Battles game. The miniatures are actually much more detailed than I expected, so I'm about to order the whole game. I think that the Command and Ancients Battles ruleset that they use should be boardgamey enough to lure some of the boardgamers of the club to play with me, as most miniature gamers will be busy with the new 40K edition this summer/autumn.
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Jul 1, 2012 10:57
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YF19pilot posted:
Except they did update all the points values in new books. That's why Red Bear exists and why there's points values in the rulebook trilogy. I know those aren't MW, but that's just too bad. People like that are why I only play with close friends.
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Jul 1, 2012 12:45
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Colonial Air Force posted:Except they did update all the points values in new books. That's why Red Bear exists and why there's points values in the rulebook trilogy. BF pretty much said that they're fine with the Soviet tank costs in MW because they were a bit expensive before, so with the new H&C rules, they're just right.
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Jul 1, 2012 13:10
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Panzeh posted:BF pretty much said that they're fine with the Soviet tank costs in MW because they were a bit expensive before, so with the new H&C rules, they're just right. I think this guy's argument was the new Hen & Chicks makes his Russian tanks worse, and therefor they're even more expensive than they should be. I don't really deal with Russians so I'm not sure how much of that is true, but I also don't think it matters - new rules are new rules and anyone who might come that is new to the game won't know the old rules and can get screwed by someone like this. I'm wanting to team up with the owner about doing an escalation league since there have been some new people coming to the store interested in the game, but I don't want that guy in it. He's really the only problem.
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Jul 1, 2012 13:33
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I think the new H&C is a better rule, as a player of Soviet tanks. I mean it's one thing if you "house rule" some things at a friendly game in your basement. It's another when it's at a store and it's basically a pick-up game.
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Jul 1, 2012 13:37
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YF19pilot posted:I think this guy's argument was the new Hen & Chicks makes his Russian tanks worse, and therefor they're even more expensive than they should be. I don't really deal with Russians so I'm not sure how much of that is true, but I also don't think it matters - new rules are new rules and anyone who might come that is new to the game won't know the old rules and can get screwed by someone like this. New Hen & Chicks is better for tanks that want to move, and worse for tanks that don't, for what that's worth. I think, since most Soviet tanks want to go fast and get up the board, the new hen and chicks is better, but perhaps in mid war, since their guns are still good enough to stand and shoot, they might prefer the old rules, where you can move 6" and still shoot without the +1 to hit.. Of course if you move further you can't shoot at all under the old rules. With the new rules it's +1 to hit if you move at all, but you can still shoot after moving more than 6". He's being a douchenozzle, though, so you really should boot him, or at least warn him about it. You can't have that kind of person there.
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Jul 1, 2012 13:38
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Wait, I thought that was how it did work? If you used a list out of one of the V2 books you used the Hen and chicks from that book. I went to my first tournament with my hopelessly outclassed Hungarian Turan Company and lost every time. Had the bad luck to face Tankovy, German Tigers (with some new bullshit hero they have that almost as bad as that loving dr guy who re spawns) and then a Hungarian Assault Gun company. Tankovy guy couldn't stop bitching about Hen and chicks because his t-34/75(? not 85's) where getting slaughtered by my panthers. Too bad for me his unit of t-34/85's and some AT16 assault guns on a hill killed everything else in my army without breaking a sweat. German Tiger guy was an rear end who was supposed to be attacking but instead hid his tigers in woods (I didn't even have airpower) because he was apparently scared of my swarm of AT 7 tanks. I eventually gave up and resigned because gently caress if i'm going to sit there for two hours going, "My turn?... Ok I'm going to stay in my defensive positions (Because I'm defending) because doing anything else would be stupid, your turn. You do nothing and Its my turn again where I do nothing..." gently caress YOU tiger guy, most unfun loving thing I ever did after getting my wisdom teeth removed. Hungarian civil was was fun though because poo poo was blowing up everywhere. A game of maneuver and counter maneuver.
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Jul 1, 2012 16:04
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Honk honk 6mm coming through   I'm sort of glad that FoW don't have a Cold War version, because if they did I'd end up buying it (and all the miniatures) in a heartbeat. It sounds pretty cool from a rules point of view, but I'm not interesting in WW2 gaming at the mo.
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Jul 1, 2012 18:50
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Does Vietnam count as cold war? Because if so....lilljonas posted:The 1/72 stuff is the new Zvezda line, to go with their Samurai Battles game. The miniatures are actually much more detailed than I expected, so I'm about to order the whole game. I think that the Command and Ancients Battles ruleset that they use should be boardgamey enough to lure some of the boardgamers of the club to play with me, as most miniature gamers will be busy with the new 40K edition this summer/autumn.
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Jul 2, 2012 01:00
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Arquinsiel posted:It's Memoir 44 reskinned apparently. Is that a good or a bad thing? I haven't played it, but I've heard a lot of good buzz about Command and Colours Ancient and the Battles for Westeros version.
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Jul 2, 2012 05:41
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I didn't really play much of it. The order deck ended up screwing both players when we kept drawing cards to move the flanks but all our stuff had piled into a scrum in the center so turns were basically "I draw three. Can't do poo poo. Discard down to limit. Pass".
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Jul 2, 2012 15:38
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I just got my first box of Victrix 28mm French and I'm a little overwhelmed with the equipment options. It comes with 60 models and I'm splitting them into units of 24 Fusiliers, 12 Voltigeurs, and 12 Grenadiers. My question though, is what headpiece would the grenadier officer, standard bearer, and musician be wearing? The bearskins or shakos like the Voltigeurs? Also, if anyone has any good internet resources on Napoleonic uniforms, that'd be handy.
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Jul 2, 2012 23:14
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Flippycunt posted:
This site has pretty much everything when it comes to uniforms from unit to unit. It's in French, but you should be able to guess how to operate it. Just choose country, then type of unit, and then regiment. This will take you to a new page, where each squadron or batallion has a link to a uniforms page. Sometimes there's even one for the officers. http://centjours.mont-saint-jean.com/unitesFR.php
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Jul 3, 2012 05:43
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I found this useful for my Austrians: http://napoleonistyka.atspace.com/Austrian_infantry.htm
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Jul 3, 2012 06:27
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Crossposting from the miniature painting thread, I finished casting some new 6mm terrain. First try at tiled roof, and I think it turned out ok, given the small scale.    Next up: 15mm terrain.
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Jul 4, 2012 21:04
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I'm trying to get into wargaming via Cold War Commander and maintaining consistent ground scale/base scale/model scale/movement scale is hurting my brain. Ground Scale and Movement/Range With Cold War Commander, I am playing so that one unit = 1 platoon. The manual refers to this as the "brigade or divisional level" of play. The alternative is to play at the "platoon level," where one unit = 1 squad/vehicle/gun. The manual states that "one centimeter on the tabletop represents ten or twenty meters in real life, depending on the level of command you choose." Since I have chosen a higher level of command, I am going to infer that one centimeter on the tabletop is thus twenty meters. The recommended battlefield size is 120x150cm, which converts to 2.4x3km in real life. I currently have a 3x3km map that I plan to use for an initial playtest. I plan to have it come out at 75x75cm and I prefer not to scale it larger. This gives me a ground scale of around 1cm to 40m rather than the recommended 1cm to 20mm. Question: Should I reduce all game movements, ranges, etc. by half? Ground Scale and Base Scale The author of the game manual uses 10mm and 12mm models, and these are based on anything from 25x50mm to 50x50mm. Since calculations are made per-base, presumably bases need to be consistent to the ground scale. I am concerned that a base that is too small or too large might not behave correctly. Question: What base size should I use given a ground scale of 1cm to 40m? Ground Scale and Model Scale I'm leaving this for last because my understanding is that model scale is an aesthetic preference only. Insofar as the base represents a single platoon, it does not matter if four 2mm tanks occupy a base, or if a single 10mm tank occupies the whole base (as a representation of the whole platoon). Question: If model scale is secondary to base scale, why does the manual state to "halve all weapon ranges when using 2mm scale miniatures"? Is it assuming a reduction in base size? Given all the above, what size base should I use to represent a single platoon operating on a 75x75cm board which represents a 3x3km battlefield? How should I adjust the weapon/movement ranges? Why am I having such a hard time understanding this? I feel like I'm missing some crucial fact that would help all of this make sense. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jul 7, 2012 |
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Jul 7, 2012 04:52
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 says the fact you're missing is assumed foreknowledge on the part of the writers. Try something less mindfuckey than CWC to start with maybe.
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Jul 7, 2012 05:21
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Arquinsiel posted:
CWC is supposed to work at every scale, and the rules, as written, are incredibly simple. There's just a huge chunk of missing context and I suspect that I'm trying to be too exact here. If I work backwards from 1 tank platoon (3-5 tanks) = 50mm base, that means you have real-world tanks spread out over 30m x 100m represented by a single tank (at 10mm model scale). I guess if you look at it that way, it doesn't matter exactly how big your base is since it's an approximation of a tank formation. So if that takes care of the static scale issue, what do I do about weapon ranges and other game ranges? The manual says that for 2mm miniatures you cut the weapon ranges in half. Does that mean cut all the ranges in half, including movement, initiative, etc.?
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Jul 7, 2012 05:44
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Arquinsiel posted:
Less mind fucky? The game is ridiculously simple. I really wouldnt worry too much about ground scale. It works fine with the given ranges.
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Jul 7, 2012 07:45
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Yea but bear in mind how much information us grognards just infer from the context of "it's a wargame" and that only GW really bothers to put stuff like terrain making advice into their core rules. There's a pretty dense wall of accumulated neckbeard between us and the average newbie. Are the ranges give in meters or in CM? If in meters then just fit it to your ground scale, if in CM do the same but with more maths.
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Jul 7, 2012 15:09
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Ranges are in centimeters, presumably assuming a 1cm to 20m ground scale. So when the game says 15cm this, 10cm that, 30cm the other I should just adjust all of those ranges/measures by the amount I'm deviating from the standard scale? In my case (1cm to 40m or so), cut everything in half?
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Jul 7, 2012 17:40
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Just make sure everything stays proportional and you'll be fine.
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Jul 7, 2012 18:23
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I have just gotten back from Panzerschreck. A doubles Flames of War tournament here in NZ. Myself and my Team mate got first place with a NZ Armoured Car company and a British Paratrooper company. (2x1100pt Mid War lists) Very sleepy but here are some pictures.            
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Jul 8, 2012 07:10
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Those are some beautiful tables. There was a tourney about an hour and a half from here that got rescheduled because of the storms that came through last week. I'm going to try to get in on it, see how they run things compared to my LGS.
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Jul 8, 2012 12:48
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Why do some of the cars have what looks like cotton puffs glued to them? Is that an indicator that they popped smoke or something?
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Jul 8, 2012 17:23
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Ensign Expendable posted:Why do some of the cars have what looks like cotton puffs glued to them? Is that an indicator that they popped smoke or something? Probably to indicate it's destroyed. Kind of an easy way to do it so you don't have to flip the vehilce on its side or top.
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Jul 8, 2012 17:44
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They are there to mark them as destroyed. The smoke obscures line of sight. Using cotton wool is a cheap way of showing it.
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Jul 8, 2012 20:57
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I managed to struggle through my first playtest of Cold War Commander. The most confusing thing was how to handle movement. Orders are issued to formations (defined per-order), but not each unit in the formation needs to have the same order (some may fire, others may move). But how much leeway does that leave for different movement within a formation? Reducio ad absurdum, could I treat my whole battlegroup as a formation and then order each unit to move a different distance and direction? Doesn't that break the game? Or does each formation need to move in the same direction, forcing you to break things up? The same distance? What if unit ranges differ? Can movement occur on an arc, irregular curve, or only in straight lines? What am I missing?
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Jul 8, 2012 22:04
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Nothing other than massively over complicating it. And yes you order your whole battle group but remember you measure to the furthest. Unit in a formation for command penalties. You really should check out the official forum for help.
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Jul 8, 2012 22:22
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So if my whole battlegroup is used as a single formation in a single command roll, each unit can have separate move orders? If that is the case, is the only reason to subdivide your formations the possible command penalty? I will end up on that forum shortly. I'm learning this game without IRL grognard help so there's a lot that is non-obvious.
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Jul 9, 2012 00:59
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MotoMind posted:So if my whole battlegroup is used as a single formation in a single command roll, each unit can have separate move orders? If that is the case, is the only reason to subdivide your formations the possible command penalty? It might be the only reason but its amassive reason. Plus remember the tactical doctrines and how they work in relation to formations.
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Jul 9, 2012 06:48
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Right, that makes sense now. We were concerned that the battle would be over in the first two turns if we were allowed to move all the units their own way in a single formation. Now I can see how it would still take time to engage the enemy. Thanks.
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Jul 9, 2012 15:53
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| # ? May 12, 2024 04:46 |
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MotoMind posted:Right, that makes sense now. We were concerned that the battle would be over in the first two turns if we were allowed to move all the units their own way in a single formation. Now I can see how it would still take time to engage the enemy. Thanks. Ive never had a battle last shorter than 8 turns to be honest- the game flows fast but it isnt a fast (over quickly) game if that makes sense. A 5000 point battle should take about 3 hours or so when you know the rules. It would be a nightmare to try and do it your way. Firstly with a reasonably sized table and battlegroup of a few 1000 points, just on distance modifiers alone due to the sheer size of the area you would need to deploy in, you would probably be looking at -3 to your command value (60cm or more away from CO). The average CO is command 8 or 9, so thats rolling 5 or 6 or below to activate your battlegroup. And thats not even including modifiers for things like initiative/opportunity fire or terrain or tactical doctrine. Then subseuqent commands are going to be at a -1 for each subseuqnet command and f course most things will have moved another 20cm or so away from your CO. Socommand 2 to your battlegroup will probably now have a roll of 3 or 4 or less on 2d6 to activate. Also remember if your CO fails a command roll thats your turn over. The point of having HQ units is that they can command their own small formations (usually a few companies in real life terms)and if they fail they can even then call on the CO to order them in some circumstances. The beauty is that you can often have your formations completing 2 or 3 activations a turn, meaning you can cover a lot of ground, or engage a lot of forces this way. You really should get along to the official forum, its probably the best ruleset forum Ive ever been a member of- 100% supportive and friendly and any questions no matter how 'noobish' will be politely and helpfully explained. Oh and of course the rules author moderates it and posts regularly. I cant rate it highly enough http://www.blitzkrieg-commander.com/Content/Forum/default.aspx
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Jul 9, 2012 18:08
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